JS

"Jim Staley"

12/11/2006 12:07 AM

Solid back

I'd like to make a piece of furniture from solid walnut. 30 in. high x 24
in. wide. x 12 in. deep. Any recommendations on joinery to attach back to
carcass that will allow for wood movement? I've always used plywood back
before, so I didn't have this problem.


This topic has 5 replies

Rr

Rick

in reply to "Jim Staley" on 12/11/2006 12:07 AM

11/11/2006 6:55 PM

Jim Staley wrote:
> I'd like to make a piece of furniture from solid walnut. 30 in. high x 24
> in. wide. x 12 in. deep. Any recommendations on joinery to attach back to
> carcass that will allow for wood movement? I've always used plywood back
> before, so I didn't have this problem.
>
>
Two options:

1. Frame and panel back
2. "ship lap" solid boards

Both solutions require a rabbit (sp?) to let either the frame or the
ship lapped solid boards into the sides, top, and bottom.

Rick
http://www.thunderworksinc.com

S@

"Stoutman" <.@.>

in reply to "Jim Staley" on 12/11/2006 12:07 AM

12/11/2006 12:20 AM


"Jim Staley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd like to make a piece of furniture from solid walnut. 30 in. high x 24
> in. wide. x 12 in. deep. Any recommendations on joinery to attach back
> to carcass that will allow for wood movement? I've always used plywood
> back before, so I didn't have this problem.
>

Make the back using tongue and groove joints? Leave some room for expansion
in some or all of the joints.

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

S@

"Stoutman" <.@.>

in reply to "Jim Staley" on 12/11/2006 12:07 AM

12/11/2006 2:04 AM



"Rick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Staley wrote:
>> I'd like to make a piece of furniture from solid walnut. 30 in. high x
>> 24 in. wide. x 12 in. deep. Any recommendations on joinery to attach
>> back to carcass that will allow for wood movement? I've always used
>> plywood back before, so I didn't have this problem.
> Two options:
>
> 1. Frame and panel back
> 2. "ship lap" solid boards
>
> Both solutions require a rabbit (sp?) to let either the frame or the ship
> lapped solid boards into the sides, top, and bottom.
>
> Rick
> http://www.thunderworksinc.com

-Just checked out your web page. You have some very impressive pieces! I
hope to get there one day...

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

l

in reply to "Jim Staley" on 12/11/2006 12:07 AM

11/11/2006 8:19 PM

In article <[email protected]>,
Jim Staley <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'd like to make a piece of furniture from solid walnut. 30 in. high x 24
>in. wide. x 12 in. deep. Any recommendations on joinery to attach back to
>carcass that will allow for wood movement? I've always used plywood back
>before, so I didn't have this problem.
>
>

Not sure waht you are actually building here. A common way in older
cabinets and cases was to use shiplap or T&G boards for the back,
fastened with a nail at center of each end, all fitted into a rabbet
going completely around the back. Very frequentyl the boards are given
a bevel along the edges that soemwhat softens the look of the gap
compared to a 90d edge. You could also use frame & panel construction
or some variation thereof. :
--
Contentment makes poor men rich. Discontent makes rich men poor.
--Benjamin Franklin
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]

BA

B A R R Y

in reply to "Jim Staley" on 12/11/2006 12:07 AM

12/11/2006 1:20 PM

On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 00:20:53 GMT, "Stoutman" <.@.> wrote:

>
>Make the back using tongue and groove joints? Leave some room for expansion
>in some or all of the joints.

This has always worked for me, as well as all of the antiques I've
purchased and refinished.


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