On Mar 12, 7:51=A0am, skeez <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:59:00 -0500, Bill T. Ray <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several
> >bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers
> >and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar
> >fixtures.
>
> >Thanks,
>
> >Bill
>
> I use one of thesehttp://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=3D947=
-828&search=3DEur...
> =A0I got it cause I had a LOT of doors to do and keep it cause it works
> pretty good. The setup takes a little time but once done a monkey
> could drill the doors.
>
> skeez
Blum also makes a drilling guide to use manually. The H=E4fele catalogue
shows it.
With some hinges (particularly the ones which need a separately
inserted cup) the difference between a 1 3/8 and a 35mm becomes
noticeable.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote
>
>> I only use 1 mark on the fence, at the bit location. I put 2 marks on
>> the
>> door, 1 on each end.
>
> LOL ... 20 doors, two marks; versus 20 doors, 41 marks?
>
> I'll stick with my "jig" ... <G>
Are you making a mark for the "end" of the door? Ohhhhhh..
Leon wrote:
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Leon" wrote
> >
> >> I only use 1 mark on the fence, at the bit location. I put 2 marks on
> >> the
> >> door, 1 on each end.
> >
> > LOL ... 20 doors, two marks; versus 20 doors, 41 marks?
> >
> > I'll stick with my "jig" ... <G>
>
>
> Are you making a mark for the "end" of the door? Ohhhhhh..
MY way, you can hang the door left or right. ( Unless the door has a
cathedral profile..and who does THAT anymore?) Just don't mount the
knobs/handles yet.
On Mar 12, 9:26=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > "Leon" wrote
>
> >> =A0I use a 1-3/8" forstner
> >> bit in a drill press to drill the holes 1/2" deep. =A0I set up a fence =
on
> > the
> >> DP table to insure that 1/8" spacing. =A0Other than that I use no jigs =
at
> > all.
>
> > Ditto ... a fence, with two marks on it, one for each end of the door, a=
re
> > all the "jigs" you need if you have a drill press.
>
> I only use 1 mark on the fence, at the bit location. =A0I put 2 marks on t=
he
> door, 1 on each end.
and I used two blocks of wood on two hinges, and use them as stops on
my fence.
Thataway the hinges are always the same distance from the end of the
doors. You just flip them away.
The other thing I did, I used a (IIRC) a 3" muffler clamp and attached
a depth stop to the cylinder (quill housing?) of the drill press, so
that the depth of the hinge hole is always 1/2", regardless of the
thickness of the door.
Tanus,
A search of their site for "35mm carbide bit" brings up 3 products. One is
for the bit that is no longer available as you stated. The next two are for
a "professional" bit and a drilling jig which comes with its own bit.
Hope this helps someone here.
Peter.
"Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Bill T. Ray wrote:
>> I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several
>> bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers
>> and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar
>> fixtures.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bill
>
> I used one of these from Lee Valley, although I see they no longer carry
> them. They may be available elsewhere.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42274&cat=1,180,42240,53317
>
> I don't own a drill press so I drilled them with a handheld drill. It was
> a bit of a trip but it actually worked.
>
> Tanus
>
> --
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6f74815a-368f-4c8d-882f-e505905bd4c1@n36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> Leon wrote:
>> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > "Leon" wrote
>> >
>> >> I only use 1 mark on the fence, at the bit location. I put 2 marks on
>> >> the
>> >> door, 1 on each end.
>> >
>> > LOL ... 20 doors, two marks; versus 20 doors, 41 marks?
>> >
>> > I'll stick with my "jig" ... <G>
>>
>>
>> Are you making a mark for the "end" of the door? Ohhhhhh..
>
>
> MY way, you can hang the door left or right. ( Unless the door has a
> cathedral profile..and who does THAT anymore?) Just don't mount the
> knobs/handles yet.
Well, hell ... MY way, you don't have to make no damn hinged stops, just use
the pencil marks on the fence for the stops! Any good workdorker can eyeball
a 1/32, which is 'perfect enough' for the task.
And, after all, Boudreaux always said things are a lot less complicated when
you plow around the stump ... :)
BTW, just figured out why I haven't seen your posts the last few days ...
this box decided to plonk your ass all by itself!
(Actually, I set a filter to get rid of that recent spate of Chinese spam,
and all "gmail" ,and you, got caught in the net ... I was starting to think
we'd got too rough n' tumble around here for an old fart like you ... :) )
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Leon" wrote
> I use a 1-3/8" forstner
> bit in a drill press to drill the holes 1/2" deep. I set up a fence on
the
> DP table to insure that 1/8" spacing. Other than that I use no jigs at
all.
Ditto ... a fence, with two marks on it, one for each end of the door, are
all the "jigs" you need if you have a drill press.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote
>
>> I use a 1-3/8" forstner
>> bit in a drill press to drill the holes 1/2" deep. I set up a fence on
> the
>> DP table to insure that 1/8" spacing. Other than that I use no jigs at
> all.
>
> Ditto ... a fence, with two marks on it, one for each end of the door, are
> all the "jigs" you need if you have a drill press.
I only use 1 mark on the fence, at the bit location. I put 2 marks on the
door, 1 on each end.
On Mar 12, 9:56=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> So you have some kind of indicator that makes contact with the door and
> allows the bit to go 1/2" deeper? =A0That sounds cool for a dedicated set =
up.
I'll take a pic of it when I use it next. The install is quick and I
only use it if I have a whole kitchen to drill...which isn't often.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:99ad5a50-afbc-4e44-85b4-b15b12d0fef6@s13g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
and I used two blocks of wood on two hinges, and use them as stops on
my fence.
Thataway the hinges are always the same distance from the end of the
doors. You just flip them away.
On my first couple of kitchens I used stop blocks but found that the hinge
location is not that critical in relation to up and down the door so I just
align the marks on the door to the one on the fence.
The other thing I did, I used a (IIRC) a 3" muffler clamp and attached
a depth stop to the cylinder (quill housing?) of the drill press, so
that the depth of the hinge hole is always 1/2", regardless of the
thickness of the door.
So you have some kind of indicator that makes contact with the door and
allows the bit to go 1/2" deeper? That sounds cool for a dedicated set up.
Bill T. Ray wrote:
> I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several
> bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers
> and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar
> fixtures.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
I used one of these from Lee Valley,
although I see they no longer carry
them. They may be available elsewhere.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42274&cat=1,180,42240,53317
I don't own a drill press so I drilled
them with a handheld drill. It was a bit
of a trip but it actually worked.
Tanus
--
"Bill T. Ray" wrote in message:
| I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several
| bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers
| and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar
| fixtures.
|
| Thanks,
|
| Bill
I used a cheap small drill press with a wooden table and fence I made for
many years.
You can buy the proper bit from a cabinet shop supply. Mine is made by
Bosch, but others have them. I recall mine costing about $35.00 in the
80's.
I now use a Hettich boring and insertion machine, but I couldn't suggest
that for what you are doing.
Have a good day, woodstuff
On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:59:00 -0500, Bill T. Ray <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several
>bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers
>and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar
>fixtures.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill
I use one of these
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=947-828&search=Euroeze
I got it cause I had a LOT of doors to do and keep it cause it works
pretty good. The setup takes a little time but once done a monkey
could drill the doors.
skeez
"Bill T. Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several
> bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers
> and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar
> fixtures.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
Assuming you are using the Euro style hinges, as Bum is a brand and not a
particular style.
There are many styles to choose from in that brand. The hinges should come
with a spec sheet to tell you exactly where to drill the hole in relation to
the edge of the door. Typically I always use 1/2" overlay hinges that
require a 1/8" offset from the edge of the door. I use a 1-3/8" forstner
bit in a drill press to drill the holes 1/2" deep. I set up a fence on the
DP table to insure that 1/8" spacing. Other than that I use no jigs at all.