We're pulling out old cabinets in the kitchen and installing new one.
Mostly they will have the same footprint, but there is one area where the
subfloor will be exposed. There's another area where the existing linoleum
will be covered up. I'm thinking about pulling up the linoleum in that area
and piecing it over the exposed area. The pattern lends itself to this and
should look fine.
Question is... the linoleum was put down about 10 years ago and I don't know
if it will come up easily or not. If it does, no big deal. But if not, and
it's glued down, can anyone suggest a way to try and peel it up?
Thanks.
Bob
On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 04:12:05 GMT, "Mail Man Bob" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Much obliged, DanG. I do have a heat gun so, I'll give it try. Won't hurt
>anything unless I burn down the house and, heck, we need a new house
>anyways.
>
If it's glued, and it probably is, you are in for a tough job. I
agree with others that a new floor is the way to go. However, I have
lived during tough times and know that it's not always possible to
afford things like that. Anyhow, take it easy with the heat gun or
you can char the surface. Some adhesives are water soluable too, and
soaking with wet sponges will help. Another thing you could do is to
make a border around the cabinets. Maybe a row of 12" tiles of a
contrasting color around all the cabinets. You can carefully cut a
12" border into the lino, remove it, and install the tiles. If the
tiles are thinner, glue down some felt paper with the flooring
adhesive in layers till you get the desired thickness. I worked for a
flooring company several years ago. There are all kinds of tricks if
you know what to do. One other thing, an electric iron might help
too. Try to find a spot where you dont need to save the lino and
experiment with heat gun, iron, steam (from iron) and soaking. For
soaking, water will only get under the edge, it wont penetrate the
lino. By the way, what you have is vinyl. They have not made
linoleum in many years, but we all still call it linoleum....
If you have a way to post a photo of the lino and the adhesive, I may
be able to tell you a little more. The backing on the vinyl matters
too. The white foam type tends to peel, whereas the gray asbestos
backing is a little more forgiving. And by the way, lets not get into
an asbestos panic discussion. It's suspended and is harmless unless
you grind it or saw through it, and turn it into dust. The old burlap
(actual linoleum) was actually the easiest to remove without damage,
but you dont have that if its 10 years old.
"Mail Man Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Question is... the linoleum was put down about 10 years ago and I don't
> know
> if it will come up easily or not. If it does, no big deal. But if not,
> and
> it's glued down, can anyone suggest a way to try and peel it up?
In 10 years, it has probably lost some resiliency and it not going to patch
well. Considering the cost of cabinets and the other work you will be
doing, consider a new floor to finish the job right.
Much obliged, DanG. I do have a heat gun so, I'll give it try. Won't hurt
anything unless I burn down the house and, heck, we need a new house
anyways.
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sheet vinyl is often installed with a full glue coverage. Most
> floor adhesives respond to heat. If you don't have a heat gun,
> the wife might have a hair dryer - just don't let her see you
> using it. If it doesn't work, you are no farther behind.
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
>
>
>
> "Mail Man Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:5mxri.1926$2c6.971@trnddc01...
> > We're pulling out old cabinets in the kitchen and installing new
> > one.
> > Mostly they will have the same footprint, but there is one area
> > where the
> > subfloor will be exposed. There's another area where the
> > existing linoleum
> > will be covered up. I'm thinking about pulling up the linoleum
> > in that area
> > and piecing it over the exposed area. The pattern lends itself
> > to this and
> > should look fine.
> >
> > Question is... the linoleum was put down about 10 years ago and
> > I don't know
> > if it will come up easily or not. If it does, no big deal. But
> > if not, and
> > it's glued down, can anyone suggest a way to try and peel it up?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
>
Sheet vinyl is often installed with a full glue coverage. Most
floor adhesives respond to heat. If you don't have a heat gun,
the wife might have a hair dryer - just don't let her see you
using it. If it doesn't work, you are no farther behind.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Mail Man Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5mxri.1926$2c6.971@trnddc01...
> We're pulling out old cabinets in the kitchen and installing new
> one.
> Mostly they will have the same footprint, but there is one area
> where the
> subfloor will be exposed. There's another area where the
> existing linoleum
> will be covered up. I'm thinking about pulling up the linoleum
> in that area
> and piecing it over the exposed area. The pattern lends itself
> to this and
> should look fine.
>
> Question is... the linoleum was put down about 10 years ago and
> I don't know
> if it will come up easily or not. If it does, no big deal. But
> if not, and
> it's glued down, can anyone suggest a way to try and peel it up?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob
>
>
<handyman36@______.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 04:12:05 GMT, "Mail Man Bob" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Much obliged, DanG. I do have a heat gun so, I'll give it try. Won't
hurt
> >anything unless I burn down the house and, heck, we need a new house
> >anyways.
> >
>
> If it's glued, and it probably is, you are in for a tough job. I
> agree with others that a new floor is the way to go. However, I have
> lived during tough times and know that it's not always possible to
> afford things like that. Anyhow, take it easy with the heat gun or
> you can char the surface. Some adhesives are water soluable too, and
> soaking with wet sponges will help. Another thing you could do is to
> make a border around the cabinets. Maybe a row of 12" tiles of a
> contrasting color around all the cabinets. You can carefully cut a
> 12" border into the lino, remove it, and install the tiles. If the
> tiles are thinner, glue down some felt paper with the flooring
> adhesive in layers till you get the desired thickness. I worked for a
> flooring company several years ago. There are all kinds of tricks if
> you know what to do. One other thing, an electric iron might help
> too. Try to find a spot where you dont need to save the lino and
> experiment with heat gun, iron, steam (from iron) and soaking. For
> soaking, water will only get under the edge, it wont penetrate the
> lino. By the way, what you have is vinyl. They have not made
> linoleum in many years, but we all still call it linoleum....
>
> If you have a way to post a photo of the lino and the adhesive, I may
> be able to tell you a little more. The backing on the vinyl matters
> too. The white foam type tends to peel, whereas the gray asbestos
> backing is a little more forgiving. And by the way, lets not get into
> an asbestos panic discussion. It's suspended and is harmless unless
> you grind it or saw through it, and turn it into dust. The old burlap
> (actual linoleum) was actually the easiest to remove without damage,
> but you dont have that if its 10 years old.
Thanks for the tips. The vinyl is Armstrong sheet. I'll try out a few
things this week and take photo and post it to these two groups:
alt.binaries.crafts.pictures
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
Bob