How does one accurately cut a comb like the ones in the dovetail jigs? I
could imagine building a comb of displaced similarly withed boards and
cutting the inside of the comb. However the outside (ends) are also rounded
the same as the internal curves. How does one accurately do this? I am sure
there is an "easy" way. And before I get 20 people telling me to just get a
pattern bit and copy an existing one, I am talking about "originating" such
a piece.
--A
"Brett A. Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] (Mike in Idaho) writes:
> >Hi,
> >
> >I won't tell you to copy an original with a pattern bit, but I will
> >suggest purchasing a CNC aluminum one -- it'll hold up better and it
> >starts out correctly too :)
> >
> >It's what I did with my jig and I'm quite happy.
> >
> >Try here (best price):
> >http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2628
>
> Just followed that link. Their entire system:
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H0983
>
> Looks like a copy of the PC dovetail jig. Anyone use one of these?
> $65 for a complete setup like that is a nice price, if it's any good.
>
> -BAT
It's the same jig that HF has on sale for $29.95 right now, They also have
other templates for $10 bucks apiece. I just bought one after looking at
the same thing offered by others.
Digger
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
It can be done using an Incra Jig on a router table. Incra Jigs are
incredible for making accurately spaced cuts. If you don't have such a
setup, you could use an Incra Shopstop Fence and a home made guide for the
router.
Woodpecker has the fences on sale at http://www.woodpeck.com/specials.html
They are also a great accessory for a drill press.
Frank
"Absinthe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How does one accurately cut a comb like the ones in the dovetail jigs? I
> could imagine building a comb of displaced similarly withed boards and
> cutting the inside of the comb. However the outside (ends) are also
rounded
> the same as the internal curves. How does one accurately do this? I am
sure
> there is an "easy" way. And before I get 20 people telling me to just get
a
> pattern bit and copy an existing one, I am talking about "originating"
such
> a piece.
>
> --A
>
>
Ok --
I think I was being stupid, since this idea just sort of popped into my
head.
Perhaps it is not an issue of math or physics at all. Suppose I take a
properly sized board at say 7/16 and put a 7/16 bullnose on it. Then slice
it into say 1/4" thick fingers. Build the positive comb from that and 7/16
straight slices offset every other one. Then after that is layed out as long
as I want it, follow it with a pattern bit. Does this sound like it would
work? From that I would certainly have a "mother" comb as accurate as the
bullnose and thickness/trueness of the original piece of wood. Of course I
guess I could use some other material for the original comb pattern...
-- A
"Absinthe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How does one accurately cut a comb like the ones in the dovetail jigs? I
> could imagine building a comb of displaced similarly withed boards and
> cutting the inside of the comb. However the outside (ends) are also
rounded
> the same as the internal curves. How does one accurately do this? I am
sure
> there is an "easy" way. And before I get 20 people telling me to just get
a
> pattern bit and copy an existing one, I am talking about "originating"
such
> a piece.
>
> --A
>
>
Hi,
I won't tell you to copy an original with a pattern bit, but I will
suggest purchasing a CNC aluminum one -- it'll hold up better and it
starts out correctly too :)
It's what I did with my jig and I'm quite happy.
Try here (best price):
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2628
I wish I'd seen this one first, I purchased a JET one (same thing,
more money :(
Oh well, good luck anyway!
Mike
"Absinthe" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> How does one accurately cut a comb like the ones in the dovetail jigs? I
> could imagine building a comb of displaced similarly withed boards and
> cutting the inside of the comb. However the outside (ends) are also rounded
> the same as the internal curves. How does one accurately do this? I am sure
> there is an "easy" way. And before I get 20 people telling me to just get a
> pattern bit and copy an existing one, I am talking about "originating" such
> a piece.
>
> --A
Not sure how late you are to the party... But the point was to actually
create one of these types of combs LIKE the ones used in the dovetail jigs.
But to be able to make it without having to resort to having an outside
machine shop make it, or have it cnc'ed or actually buying a pre-made one or
a premade pattern. It is a dual question as I use the comb from the dovetail
jig as an example, but the actual final project may be any size/dimension
comb, just so that what is created could actually nest against itself
(fingers into voids) and be the same shape. So if one could make one that
would work at the dovetail jig that would be a proof of concept for the
process.
-- A
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Absinthe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok --
> >
> > I think I was being stupid, since this idea just sort of popped into
> my
> > head.
> >
> > Perhaps it is not an issue of math or physics at all. Suppose I take a
> > properly sized board at say 7/16 and put a 7/16 bullnose on it. Then
> slice
> > it into say 1/4" thick fingers. Build the positive comb from that and
> 7/16
> > straight slices offset every other one. Then after that is layed out
> as long
> > as I want it, follow it with a pattern bit. Does this sound like it
> would
> > work? From that I would certainly have a "mother" comb as accurate as
> the
> > bullnose and thickness/trueness of the original piece of wood. Of
> course I
> > guess I could use some other material for the original comb pattern...
> >
> > -- A
> >
>
> You would have to glue it to your base because the comb joint wouldn't
> be very strong and would likely break. I'm coming to the party late but
> have you thought about having it water jet or laser cut? You could have
> a short one made (6 or 8") and use it with a pattern bit to make as long
> a one as you need.
>
>
Mike --
Perhaps I should have said that this was more of a concept question.
BTW that does seem like a great price.
I am looking to come up with a way to make such a shaped comb as the router
templates. Possibly for some other purpose and perhaps in some other
size/dimension but the idea being that if two of them were put together
offset they could nest in each others curves.
There has to be a way to do it. I figure at some point a collared or bearing
guided router can go around a squared off shape perhaps pretty narrow and
make a curve. For example if I made a comb of say 1/4" wide strips 3/4 apart
and went around them with a 1/4" bit in a 1/2" collar or something like
that.... Or perhaps rather than making a comb and tracing it, make whatever
the opposite of a comb is.. series of stopped channels wide enough that
tracing in and out of them would cut out the curved combs..... I know you
can make curves from square corners, all you have to do is see what happens
when you trace the inside of a square frame with a router to see that. So
somehow one could make a very careful squared shape then follow it with a
properly collared but and make a comb.
I am sure I am not explaining this correctly, but I am sure someone out
there intimately understands the math/physics of this well enough to say
something that starts like... "All you gotta do is..."
-- A
"Mike in Idaho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I won't tell you to copy an original with a pattern bit, but I will
> suggest purchasing a CNC aluminum one -- it'll hold up better and it
> starts out correctly too :)
>
> It's what I did with my jig and I'm quite happy.
>
> Try here (best price):
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2628
>
> I wish I'd seen this one first, I purchased a JET one (same thing,
> more money :(
>
> Oh well, good luck anyway!
> Mike
>
>
> "Absinthe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > How does one accurately cut a comb like the ones in the dovetail jigs? I
> > could imagine building a comb of displaced similarly withed boards and
> > cutting the inside of the comb. However the outside (ends) are also
rounded
> > the same as the internal curves. How does one accurately do this? I am
sure
> > there is an "easy" way. And before I get 20 people telling me to just
get a
> > pattern bit and copy an existing one, I am talking about "originating"
such
> > a piece.
> >
> > --A
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Mike in Idaho) writes:
>Hi,
>
>I won't tell you to copy an original with a pattern bit, but I will
>suggest purchasing a CNC aluminum one -- it'll hold up better and it
>starts out correctly too :)
>
>It's what I did with my jig and I'm quite happy.
>
>Try here (best price):
>http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2628
Just followed that link. Their entire system:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H0983
Looks like a copy of the PC dovetail jig. Anyone use one of these?
$65 for a complete setup like that is a nice price, if it's any good.
-BAT
"Absinthe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok --
>
> I think I was being stupid, since this idea just sort of popped into
my
> head.
>
> Perhaps it is not an issue of math or physics at all. Suppose I take a
> properly sized board at say 7/16 and put a 7/16 bullnose on it. Then
slice
> it into say 1/4" thick fingers. Build the positive comb from that and
7/16
> straight slices offset every other one. Then after that is layed out
as long
> as I want it, follow it with a pattern bit. Does this sound like it
would
> work? From that I would certainly have a "mother" comb as accurate as
the
> bullnose and thickness/trueness of the original piece of wood. Of
course I
> guess I could use some other material for the original comb pattern...
>
> -- A
>
You would have to glue it to your base because the comb joint wouldn't
be very strong and would likely break. I'm coming to the party late but
have you thought about having it water jet or laser cut? You could have
a short one made (6 or 8") and use it with a pattern bit to make as long
a one as you need.