sawing curved edges with jigsaw

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 14:02:48 -0400, "Zed Rafi" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>i've got a VERY basic jigsaw. it's a Black & Decker corded jigsaw, that i
>got for very cheap (50 canadian bucks).
>I imagine these jigsaws are considered absolute crap to the experienced
>woodworker, but it seems to work fine for the occasional use i make of it.




the difference between that and a high end saw is remarkable.


if you're using it only to rough cut before trimming with the router
you may not care, and high end machines are expensive. a high end
jigsaw will still not do as clean or accurate a job as a router and
template setup.

What kind of jigsaw do you have? The first & best thing you can do is
to get a high quality saw like a Bosch or Milwaukee.

--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]

Zed Rafi asks:

>I am looking for tricks to make a curved edge sawed with a jigsaw look
>professionally smooth.
>Whenever i saw a curved edge on a board for exemple, i first draw the curved
>edge i want to cut, and then saw along the edge slowly with my jigsaw. In
>tricky areas along the saw path (e.g. tight curves), i try to clear the
>drawn edge maybe 2 millimeters, so i can file it afterwards down to the
>drawn edge.
>I find this technique tiresome, and i find it hard to achieve a
>mathematically smooth and continuous edge.
>
>If your suggestions include using a flush trim router bit, don't hesistate,
>cause i just purchased one.
>
>Also, at what speed should i set my jigsaw when sawing a complex (non
>straight) edge??? I've been sawing with my jigsaw speed set at MAX. Any
>reasons why I shouldn't? If not, what are these slower speed settings for
>then?

Generally, a slower speed makes for easier control. But you leave out an
important bit of information: jigsaws are one tool where all the hype about
"buy the best and only cry once" is true. What brand are you using?

Unless you're using a router table, the bearing on the flush trim router bit is
going to follow the surface you've already cut.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington

i've got a VERY basic jigsaw. it's a Black & Decker corded jigsaw, that i
got for very cheap (50 canadian bucks).
I imagine these jigsaws are considered absolute crap to the experienced
woodworker, but it seems to work fine for the occasional use i make of it.

"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de
news:[email protected]...
> What kind of jigsaw do you have? The first & best thing you can do is
> to get a high quality saw like a Bosch or Milwaukee.
>
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>

Zed Rafi wrote:
> i've got a VERY basic jigsaw. it's a Black & Decker corded jigsaw, that i
> got for very cheap (50 canadian bucks).
> I imagine these jigsaws are considered absolute crap to the experienced
> woodworker, but it seems to work fine for the occasional use i make of it.
>
> "Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>What kind of jigsaw do you have? The first & best thing you can do is
>>to get a high quality saw like a Bosch or Milwaukee.
>>
>>--
>>
>> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
>> [email protected]
>>
>
>
>

Rafi:

Get the BOSCH blades for your saw jig saw -- assuming they fit.
Available at HD and CTC here in Kanuckistan. I recently replaced my Old
B&D with a Makita and was not that satisfied. Getting the new blades
made a great difference. Difference between the Bosch blades and the
cheap blades is amazing. Often you can get a polished looking surface
with the right blade for the speed and the material. Then the other
smoothing operations go quicker.

Also -- if you do not need a "precision edge" to mate with something,
you can get an inflatable sander at Lee Valley to fit in a drill press
or whatever. They do a beautiful job of smoothing an edge. $50 or less
as I recall. SWMBO got one for Christmas for her intarsia -- of course I
test it occasionally for here just to make sure it works properly...


--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 16:51:46 -0400, "Zed Rafi" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>I'm an amateur wookworker, and do not have a whole lot of tools in my
>possession. However, a do have the basic tools.
>
>I am looking for tricks to make a curved edge sawed with a jigsaw look
>professionally smooth.
>Whenever i saw a curved edge on a board for exemple, i first draw the curved
>edge i want to cut, and then saw along the edge slowly with my jigsaw. In
>tricky areas along the saw path (e.g. tight curves), i try to clear the
>drawn edge maybe 2 millimeters, so i can file it afterwards down to the
>drawn edge.

not too bad an approach. you'll likely find it easier to "fair" the
curve on a template than on the actual workpiece.

some words to do searches on:
trammel
jig
french curve
spring stick
Pat Warner
ellipse




>I find this technique tiresome, and i find it hard to achieve a
>mathematically smooth and continuous edge.
>
>If your suggestions include using a flush trim router bit, don't hesistate,
>cause i just purchased one.

a good tool. got a router to put it in? <G>

now you need to practice making templates.

>
>Also, at what speed should i set my jigsaw when sawing a complex (non
>straight) edge??? I've been sawing with my jigsaw speed set at MAX. Any
>reasons why I shouldn't? If not, what are these slower speed settings for
>then?

depends on material, thickness, hardness, etc. experiment and use what
works.




>
>Thanks in advance for the tips.
>

> the difference between that and a high end saw is remarkable.

i'm sure. my jigsaw feels soooo cheap, it's even got a toy-like feel to it.

Here is the jig I was refering to :


http://www.diynet.com/diy/hi_tools/article/0,2037,DIY_13936_2912802,00.html




<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 16:51:46 -0400, "Zed Rafi" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Hello all,
> >
> >I'm an amateur wookworker, and do not have a whole lot of tools in my
> >possession. However, a do have the basic tools.
> >
> >I am looking for tricks to make a curved edge sawed with a jigsaw look
> >professionally smooth.
> >Whenever i saw a curved edge on a board for exemple, i first draw the
curved
> >edge i want to cut, and then saw along the edge slowly with my jigsaw. In
> >tricky areas along the saw path (e.g. tight curves), i try to clear the
> >drawn edge maybe 2 millimeters, so i can file it afterwards down to the
> >drawn edge.
>
> not too bad an approach. you'll likely find it easier to "fair" the
> curve on a template than on the actual workpiece.
>
> some words to do searches on:
> trammel
> jig
> french curve
> spring stick
> Pat Warner
> ellipse
>
>
>
>
> >I find this technique tiresome, and i find it hard to achieve a
> >mathematically smooth and continuous edge.
> >
> >If your suggestions include using a flush trim router bit, don't
hesistate,
> >cause i just purchased one.
>
> a good tool. got a router to put it in? <G>
>
> now you need to practice making templates.
>
> >
> >Also, at what speed should i set my jigsaw when sawing a complex (non
> >straight) edge??? I've been sawing with my jigsaw speed set at MAX. Any
> >reasons why I shouldn't? If not, what are these slower speed settings for
> >then?
>
> depends on material, thickness, hardness, etc. experiment and use what
> works.
>
>
>
>
> >
> >Thanks in advance for the tips.
> >
>

"Zed Rafi" wrote in message

> I am looking for tricks to make a curved edge sawed with a jigsaw look
> professionally smooth.

First make a template of the curve with appropriate thickness mdf. The more
effort you put in the template, the happier you will be with the final
results.

To make the template, layout the curve and use the band/jig saw and a rasp
to rough cut, then sandpaper glued to flexible strips to the smooth the
curve _exactly_ as you want it.

Once the template is to your satisfaction, use it layout the curve on the
workpieces, band/jig saw to rough cut the curve, then, with double sided
tape to hold the template and workpiece together, finish up with your
router and flush trim bit ... preferably on a router table.

If possible, design your template, and rough cut your workpieces, a bit
oversize past both ends of the curve, then trim the workpiece to final size
after routing, thereby removing any tearout on end grain or at end of router
cuts.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

You can make a sled for your saw to ride on in the arc.
Kind of like a circle jig for your router.


"Zed Rafi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello all,
>
> I'm an amateur wookworker, and do not have a whole lot of tools in my
> possession. However, a do have the basic tools.
>
> I am looking for tricks to make a curved edge sawed with a jigsaw look
> professionally smooth.
> Whenever i saw a curved edge on a board for exemple, i first draw the
curved
> edge i want to cut, and then saw along the edge slowly with my jigsaw. In
> tricky areas along the saw path (e.g. tight curves), i try to clear the
> drawn edge maybe 2 millimeters, so i can file it afterwards down to the
> drawn edge.
> I find this technique tiresome, and i find it hard to achieve a
> mathematically smooth and continuous edge.
>
> If your suggestions include using a flush trim router bit, don't
hesistate,
> cause i just purchased one.
>
> Also, at what speed should i set my jigsaw when sawing a complex (non
> straight) edge??? I've been sawing with my jigsaw speed set at MAX. Any
> reasons why I shouldn't? If not, what are these slower speed settings for
> then?
>
> Thanks in advance for the tips.
>
>

Zed Rafi wrote:

> i've got a VERY basic jigsaw. it's a Black & Decker corded jigsaw, that i
> got for very cheap (50 canadian bucks).
> I imagine these jigsaws are considered absolute crap to the experienced
> woodworker, but it seems to work fine for the occasional use i make of it.

The big problem with cheap jigsaws is not durability but lack of precision.
Way backalong I tried a Bosch and immediately bought one--cost more at the
time than all my other portable tools combined but it was worth it. There
is no other power tool where the difference between "cheap" and "good" is
as apparent as in a jigsaw, but until you've used both you don't realize
just how wide that gap is.

Using Bosch blades in your saw if it will take them should help but it still
doesn't have the orbital action or precision control of blade movement that
the Bosch mechanism (also used in one variation or another by Milwaukee and
a couple of other vendors now that the Bosch patents have expired)
provides.

If you can't get a smooth cut then you need to smooth it by other
means--depending on the intricacy of the cut you can use planes or scrapers
or various kinds of sanders.

> "Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message
> de news:[email protected]...
>> What kind of jigsaw do you have? The first & best thing you can do is
>> to get a high quality saw like a Bosch or Milwaukee.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
>> [email protected]
>>

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 14:02:48 -0400, "Zed Rafi" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>
>i've got a VERY basic jigsaw. it's a Black & Decker corded jigsaw, that i
>got for very cheap (50 canadian bucks).
>I imagine these jigsaws are considered absolute crap to the experienced
>woodworker, but it seems to work fine for the occasional use i make of it.

So did I... I had a $35 USD Craftsman special for years. Then I
borrowed a good Bosch. The difference was amazing. I bought the
Milwaukee for myself and invested in good blades.

If you want to improve your results - consider buying a better saw.
But even then I get the best results out of (a) using a bandsaw
instead and/or (b) using an Oscillating Spinder Sander after the cut.