Hi. I have a chinchilla that gets loose once in awhile and he likes to chew
on the frame of a futon couch (chins gnaw on wood constantly). I'm no
expert but it looks like some of the slats in the back of the frame where he
sits are pine. Pine can kill a chin unless it is kiln dried. Anything that
has too much moisture or sap will do harm to these sensitive animals. Is it
safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
thanks,
dwhite
"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Dan White <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Hi. I have a chinchilla that gets loose once in awhile and he likes to
chew
> >on the frame of a futon couch (chins gnaw on wood constantly). I'm no
> >expert but it looks like some of the slats in the back of the frame where
he
> >sits are pine. Pine can kill a chin unless it is kiln dried. Anything
that
> >has too much moisture or sap will do harm to these sensitive animals. Is
it
> >safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
> >
> >thanks,
> >dwhite
> >
> >
>
> If your information is correct, and the chinchilla lives, then the
> wood was kiln dried.
But...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 16:03:24 GMT, [email protected] (Lawrence
Wasserman) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Dan White <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Hi. I have a chinchilla that gets loose once in awhile and he likes to chew
>>on the frame of a futon couch (chins gnaw on wood constantly). I'm no
>>expert but it looks like some of the slats in the back of the frame where he
>>sits are pine. Pine can kill a chin unless it is kiln dried. Anything that
>>has too much moisture or sap will do harm to these sensitive animals. Is it
>>safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
>>
>>thanks,
>>dwhite
>>
>>
>
>If your information is correct, and the chinchilla lives, then the
>wood was kiln dried.
Thinking about this I'd worry more about the impact of the finish than
the wood on the chinchilla's delicate little tummy.
--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.
Dan White wrote:
> Hi. I have a chinchilla that gets loose once in awhile and he likes
to chew
> on the frame of a futon couch (chins gnaw on wood constantly). I'm
no
> expert but it looks like some of the slats in the back of the frame
where he
> sits are pine. Pine can kill a chin unless it is kiln dried.
Anything that
> has too much moisture or sap will do harm to these sensitive animals.
Is it
> safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
I'll bet the culpret is turpenies. The lignens and other resins in
pine are very thermaly stablen and would not undergo chemical change in
a kiln. Some turpentine would be distilled off in a kiln at 180 F.
The same process would occure at room temperature over a few years.
Freshly cut (or machined as in shaveings) pine might be another thing.
I will look up a MSDS for turpentine and get back to you with a LD50.
Duane Bozarth wrote:
> woodbutcher wrote:
> ...
> > I will look up a MSDS for turpentine and get back to you with a
LD50.
>
> I was going to suggest a second as a test animal myself...That would
> establish a 50-th percentile, right? :)
I was wrong on the turpentine bet. The LD50 (the amount it takes to
kill 50% of the test animals) for rats is 3700 - 5000mg/Kg. That means
that of rats eating about 0.4% of their body weight of pure turpentine
50% of them will die. Since even in fresh pine there isn't much
turpentine unless you get stumps of "fat pine", that it is impossible
for a rat to die of turpentine poisoning. Chins are very close cousins
of rats. If pine is toxic, then it aint turpentine.
> > No, I'm definitely thinking of what they pass for untreated 2 x 4
white
> > wood down here (used to be pine, this is fir, doesn't smell like
any
> > evergreen I ever remember).
> Sounds like SPF (spruce, pine, fur) borg stuff...
Don't know about borg ............. but even down here in LA which is
southern pine country they use Brazilian pine to pressure treat. It is
cheaper than the trees just outside the gate. The stuff comes in full
of mold spores and now that CCA (copper-chrome-arsenic) is banned they
have hell keeping it from turning black in storage. Business has
really picked up for the company that I work for - one of our products
is moldacide.
Duane Bozarth wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
> >
> ...
> > Sure. Here's one that's been discussed here several times.
Kiln-dried black
> > walnut is dark brown; air-dried black walnut is dark brown with a
distinct
> > purple cast that is utterly absent in kiln-dried walnut. The
difference is due
> > to temperature-induced chemical changes in the wood.
> ...
>
> Not necessarily so...the purple cast <can> come through kiln drying
(I
> have some on hand), but not if the kiln steams it to blend in the the
> sapwood color...
Bass akwards. The 'purple' (looks more like grey to me) cast is
caused by kiln drying and will not appear in air-dried wood. I'm
pretty sure that steaming to blend the color in from the heartwood
to the sapwood greatly increases the effect. IMHO, it looks like crap.
I've seen plenty of air-dried black walnut--dried it ourselves.
The first time I saw steamed black walnut I didn't even recognize
it. My second question was "What happened to it?"
I've read here on the rec that the discoloration from steaming
fades over time so that in the long run it will look OK.
--
FF
Duane Bozarth wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> ...
> > Bass akwards. The 'purple' (looks more like grey to me) cast is
> > caused by kiln drying and will not appear in air-dried wood. ...
>
> No, the purple color is caused by soil types where the individual
tree
> grew...I'm not sure that anyone has identified specific minerals, pH,
or
> other conditions required, but it is an inherent trait of black
walnut,
> not induced by kiln drying. It is certainly observable in some
> air-dried specimins.
Hmm, now I'm going to have to take some walnut ans steam it in my oven
to see what happens.
--
FF
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>I thought you had to be trolling; after all, once it has been used, there
>>is
>>no difference between kiln dried and air dried wood.
>
> FALSE. Kiln-dried wood is brought to high temperatures during the drying
> process, which definitely produces chemical and physical changes in the
> wood.
Such as? Can you give me some examples?
>
>>So, being hooked, I
>>did a google search and found you are almost right.
>>
>>You can't let them chew on fresh pine. Pine in your futon frame is dry,
>>not
>>fresh. How it got dry does not matter.
>
> This may or may not be true, depending on the specific nature of the
> danger to
> the critter from chewing on fresh pine. For example, it's possible (even
> likely) that the high temperatures of kiln drying cause chemical changes
> in
> the resin which result in reducing its toxicity. These changes would *not*
> occur during air drying, and thus air-dried pine might present the same
> hazards as fresh.
>
A number of websites said "pine" (no descriptive) was okay for cages, but
"kiln dried pine" shavings had to be used for bedding. Another website said
that "fresh pine" was dangerous.
Presumably one might, without the caution, use "fresh pine" for bedding but
not for construction; as that is alway dried in some manner.
My conclusion that "fresh pine" is dangerous, but "dried pine" is okay
without distinction as to the drying method.
No?
"woodbutcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>Chins are very close cousins of rats. If pine is toxic, then it aint
turpentine.
>
My two might take exception to that remark. :)
dwhite
Doug Miller wrote:
> Sure. Here's one that's been discussed here several times. Kiln-dried
> black walnut is dark brown; air-dried black walnut is dark brown with a
> distinct purple cast that is utterly absent in kiln-dried walnut. The
> difference is due to temperature-induced chemical changes in the wood.
Don't you have that backwards?
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
Dan White wrote:
>
> Is it safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
Yes. Whether that translates to safe for the animal I can't answer as
don't know what it takes to make it so...
Of course, it's also quite possible the secondary wood is something like
poplar or other "white wood". Pine these days is actually fairly
expensive relative to some alternatives.
toller wrote:
...
> A number of websites said "pine" (no descriptive) was okay for cages, but
> "kiln dried pine" shavings had to be used for bedding. Another website said
> that "fresh pine" was dangerous.
> Presumably one might, without the caution, use "fresh pine" for bedding but
> not for construction; as that is alway dried in some manner.
>
> My conclusion that "fresh pine" is dangerous, but "dried pine" is okay
> without distinction as to the drying method.
> No?
Impossible to say from that detailed analysis... :)
I'd guess the only problem would be a sizable ingestion of "fresh"
resin-laden material as would most likely only be likely w/ the bedding
owing to the smaller initial size.
Mark & Juanita wrote:
...
> I'd say it's unlikely the softwood you buy from the borg was ever in the
> same county as a kiln.
No, it certainly is kiln-dried, just to construction standards and
rapidly, not to hardwood/furniture standards...if it were fresh cut
undried it would definitely be much wetter.
You may be thinking of treated which will have residual non-natural
moisture from the treating process...
Doug Miller wrote:
>
...
> Sure. Here's one that's been discussed here several times. Kiln-dried black
> walnut is dark brown; air-dried black walnut is dark brown with a distinct
> purple cast that is utterly absent in kiln-dried walnut. The difference is due
> to temperature-induced chemical changes in the wood.
...
Not necessarily so...the purple cast <can> come through kiln drying (I
have some on hand), but not if the kiln steams it to blend in the the
sapwood color...
[email protected] wrote:
...
> Bass akwards. The 'purple' (looks more like grey to me) cast is
> caused by kiln drying and will not appear in air-dried wood. ...
No, the purple color is caused by soil types where the individual tree
grew...I'm not sure that anyone has identified specific minerals, pH, or
other conditions required, but it is an inherent trait of black walnut,
not induced by kiln drying. It is certainly observable in some
air-dried specimins.
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Duane Bozarth wrote:
> > [email protected] wrote:
> > ...
> > > Bass akwards. The 'purple' (looks more like grey to me) cast is
> > > caused by kiln drying and will not appear in air-dried wood. ...
> >
> > No, the purple color is caused by soil types where the individual
> tree
> > grew...I'm not sure that anyone has identified specific minerals, pH,
> or
> > other conditions required, but it is an inherent trait of black
> walnut,
> > not induced by kiln drying. It is certainly observable in some
> > air-dried specimins.
>
> Hmm, now I'm going to have to take some walnut ans steam it in my oven
> to see what happens.
In general, the steaming promotes the migration of color to sapwood
although it also promotes blending and makes a more general brownish
hue. I was told by the fella' running the kiln in VA where I used to
buy that the commercial users (that area is, or at least was, full of
furniture manufacturers) demanded it and that for their purposes, the
high temperature and extensive steaming essentially washed all the red
and purple hues out. He would normally dry in a smaller kiln for the
private market and not steam...I know from first-hand experience that
that would still contain some of the purple tints although I suspect if
they were compared to a side-by-side slab of the same tree, the
air-dried would still be more pronounced in color--never saw that
experiment.
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> I'd say it's unlikely the softwood you buy from the borg was ever in the
> same county as a kiln.
>
Now having experienced said wood, I would be inclined to agree with you;
however they *claim* it is kiln dried. Now you want wet, try the PT
stuff; *that* is wet. 'round here, the decking cedar is also wet I
think; major shrinkage and kinda messy to deal with.
PK
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dan White wrote:
> >
> > Is it safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
>
> Yes. Whether that translates to safe for the animal I can't answer as
> don't know what it takes to make it so...
>
> Of course, it's also quite possible the secondary wood is something like
> poplar or other "white wood". Pine these days is actually fairly
> expensive relative to some alternatives.
The futon is about 12 years old, if that makes a diff. I need a new digital
cam or else I've have posted a pic link. It seems as though the jury is
still out on whether it is safe. The sites I see say kiln dried whenever
they specify. I haven't seen any that say pine is OK if it has been sitting
around for awhile.
Thanks for all the thoughts, and no I'm NOT trolling! :)
dwhite
In article <[email protected]>, Silvan <[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> Sure. Here's one that's been discussed here several times. Kiln-dried
>> black walnut is dark brown; air-dried black walnut is dark brown with a
>> distinct purple cast that is utterly absent in kiln-dried walnut. The
>> difference is due to temperature-induced chemical changes in the wood.
>
>Don't you have that backwards?
>
Not unless the stuff in my firewood pile has seen the inside of a kiln. :-)
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
Dan White wrote:
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Dan White wrote:
>>
>>>Is it safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
>>
>>Yes. Whether that translates to safe for the animal I can't answer as
>>don't know what it takes to make it so...
>>
>>Of course, it's also quite possible the secondary wood is something like
>>poplar or other "white wood". Pine these days is actually fairly
>>expensive relative to some alternatives.
>
>
> The futon is about 12 years old, if that makes a diff. I need a new digital
> cam or else I've have posted a pic link. It seems as though the jury is
> still out on whether it is safe. The sites I see say kiln dried whenever
> they specify. I haven't seen any that say pine is OK if it has been sitting
> around for awhile.
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts, and no I'm NOT trolling! :)
>
> dwhite
>
>
I think you will find that the kiln dried caveat probably
came from someone's experience using fresh material (whole
ground up tree limbs that include bark, needles and lots of
resin. It is unlikely that your wood frame contains enough
resin to affect the animal. More likely is that he weakens
the frame and you sit down and crush him.
I thought you had to be trolling; after all, once it has been used, there is
no difference between kiln dried and air dried wood. So, being hooked, I
did a google search and found you are almost right.
You can't let them chew on fresh pine. Pine in your futon frame is dry, not
fresh. How it got dry does not matter.
"woodbutcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>> > No, I'm definitely thinking of what they pass for untreated 2 x 4
> white
>> > wood down here (used to be pine, this is fir, doesn't smell like
> any
>> > evergreen I ever remember).
>> Sounds like SPF (spruce, pine, fur) borg stuff...
>
> Don't know about borg ............. but even down here in LA which is
> southern pine country they use Brazilian pine to pressure treat. It is
> cheaper than the trees just outside the gate. The stuff comes in full
> of mold spores and now that CCA (copper-chrome-arsenic) is banned they
> have hell keeping it from turning black in storage. Business has
> really picked up for the company that I work for - one of our products
> is moldacide.
Hmmm... moldacide goes pretty good with my typo above too... fur vs. fir.
;-)
John
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Dan White wrote:
>> >
>> > Is it safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
>>
>> Yes. Whether that translates to safe for the animal I can't answer as
>> don't know what it takes to make it so...
>>
>> Of course, it's also quite possible the secondary wood is something like
>> poplar or other "white wood". Pine these days is actually fairly
>> expensive relative to some alternatives.
>
> The futon is about 12 years old, if that makes a diff. I need a new
> digital
> cam or else I've have posted a pic link. It seems as though the jury is
> still out on whether it is safe. The sites I see say kiln dried whenever
> they specify. I haven't seen any that say pine is OK if it has been
> sitting
> around for awhile.
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts, and no I'm NOT trolling! :)
>
> dwhite
>
But you notice they always specify on shavings and never on lumber.
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 09:58:07 -0600, Duane Bozarth <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> No, I'm definitely thinking of what they pass for untreated 2 x 4 white
> wood down here (used to be pine, this is fir, doesn't smell like any
> evergreen I ever remember). I'll grant my comment was somewhat facetious,
> but the wood we get down here from the borg is still quite damp to the
> touch. If one does not use it immediately to constrain it or constrain it
> in storage, it will twist as it dries.
>
> As I said, my kiln comment was somewhat facetious, but the drying that is
> done is just barely construction quality
Sounds like SPF (spruce, pine, fur) borg stuff... The last time I bought
some, which was between Christmas and New Years I had to break the wood
apart in the store as it was frozen together! I don't know how long the unit
was inside the store but about a quarter of the 2x4s were missing off the
top of the stack when I got there. I was very glad I brought my leather work
gloves in as it was a terrible job getting them apart. Reminds me of the
"old days" of the 70s when I bought wood that was stored outside in the
winter... the big dimension stuff wasn't even under cover!
John
"George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dan White wrote:
> > "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Dan White wrote:
> >>
> >>>Is it safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
> >>
> >>Yes. Whether that translates to safe for the animal I can't answer as
> >>don't know what it takes to make it so...
> >>
> >>Of course, it's also quite possible the secondary wood is something like
> >>poplar or other "white wood". Pine these days is actually fairly
> >>expensive relative to some alternatives.
> >
> >
> > The futon is about 12 years old, if that makes a diff. I need a new
digital
> > cam or else I've have posted a pic link. It seems as though the jury is
> > still out on whether it is safe. The sites I see say kiln dried
whenever
> > they specify. I haven't seen any that say pine is OK if it has been
sitting
> > around for awhile.
> >
> > Thanks for all the thoughts, and no I'm NOT trolling! :)
> >
> > dwhite
> >
> >
>
> I think you will find that the kiln dried caveat probably
> came from someone's experience using fresh material (whole
> ground up tree limbs that include bark, needles and lots of
> resin. It is unlikely that your wood frame contains enough
> resin to affect the animal. More likely is that he weakens
> the frame and you sit down and crush him.
I get the same feeling. This furniture is over a decade old and the wood is
thin, so you would think things like turpentines would be gone by now.
thanks,
dwhite
In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>>I thought you had to be trolling; after all, once it has been used, there
>>>is
>>>no difference between kiln dried and air dried wood.
>>
>> FALSE. Kiln-dried wood is brought to high temperatures during the drying
>> process, which definitely produces chemical and physical changes in the
>> wood.
>
>Such as? Can you give me some examples?
Sure. Here's one that's been discussed here several times. Kiln-dried black
walnut is dark brown; air-dried black walnut is dark brown with a distinct
purple cast that is utterly absent in kiln-dried walnut. The difference is due
to temperature-induced chemical changes in the wood.
>>
>>>So, being hooked, I
>>>did a google search and found you are almost right.
>>>
>>>You can't let them chew on fresh pine. Pine in your futon frame is dry,
>>>not
>>>fresh. How it got dry does not matter.
>>
>> This may or may not be true, depending on the specific nature of the
>> danger to
>> the critter from chewing on fresh pine. For example, it's possible (even
>> likely) that the high temperatures of kiln drying cause chemical changes
>> in
>> the resin which result in reducing its toxicity. These changes would *not*
>> occur during air drying, and thus air-dried pine might present the same
>> hazards as fresh.
>>
>A number of websites said "pine" (no descriptive) was okay for cages, but
>"kiln dried pine" shavings had to be used for bedding. Another website said
>that "fresh pine" was dangerous.
>Presumably one might, without the caution, use "fresh pine" for bedding but
>not for construction; as that is alway dried in some manner.
>
>My conclusion that "fresh pine" is dangerous, but "dried pine" is okay
>without distinction as to the drying method.
>No?
If your own research shows that "kiln dried pine shavings had to be used for
bedding" why would you suppose that the drying method makes no difference?
That conclusion, even though possibly correct, is *obviously* unsupported by
the evidence you have cited so far.
>
>
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
In article <[email protected]>,
Dan White <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi. I have a chinchilla that gets loose once in awhile and he likes to chew
>on the frame of a futon couch (chins gnaw on wood constantly). I'm no
>expert but it looks like some of the slats in the back of the frame where he
>sits are pine. Pine can kill a chin unless it is kiln dried. Anything that
>has too much moisture or sap will do harm to these sensitive animals. Is it
>safe to say that any wood going into furniture is kiln dried?
>
>thanks,
>dwhite
>
>
If your information is correct, and the chinchilla lives, then the
wood was kiln dried.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Thanks for all the thoughts, and no I'm NOT trolling! :)
> >
> > dwhite
> >
> But you notice they always specify on shavings and never on lumber.
>
>
But they do sometimes. Here is a site:
http://tx.essortment.com/chinchillainfor_ryva.htm
Which says:
Chinchillas need chew toys to keep their teeth from becoming too long. Non
treated kiln-dried white pinewood pieces are good for this.
Another site says that fruit tree wood is poisonous to chins, but untreated
kiln-dried white pine is the best.
So, there is plenty of discussion about kiln-dried other than for shavings.
thanks,
dwhite
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 09:58:07 -0600, Duane Bozarth <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mark & Juanita wrote:
>...
>> I'd say it's unlikely the softwood you buy from the borg was ever in the
>> same county as a kiln.
>
>No, it certainly is kiln-dried, just to construction standards and
>rapidly, not to hardwood/furniture standards...if it were fresh cut
>undried it would definitely be much wetter.
>
>You may be thinking of treated which will have residual non-natural
>moisture from the treating process...
No, I'm definitely thinking of what they pass for untreated 2 x 4 white
wood down here (used to be pine, this is fir, doesn't smell like any
evergreen I ever remember). I'll grant my comment was somewhat facetious,
but the wood we get down here from the borg is still quite damp to the
touch. If one does not use it immediately to constrain it or constrain it
in storage, it will twist as it dries.
As I said, my kiln comment was somewhat facetious, but the drying that is
done is just barely construction quality
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I thought you had to be trolling; after all, once it has been used, there is
>>no difference between kiln dried and air dried wood.
>
>
> FALSE. Kiln-dried wood is brought to high temperatures during the drying
> process, which definitely produces chemical and physical changes in the wood.
Not necessarily. Low temperature kiln's are used, although I would admit
that it is unlikely that the softwood you buy from the borg was done
that way; large scale drying of softwood is indeed often done at higher
temperatures, soemthing like 180-240 F.
PK
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 12:17:53 -0500, Paul Kierstead <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I thought you had to be trolling; after all, once it has been used, there is
>>>no difference between kiln dried and air dried wood.
>>
>>
>> FALSE. Kiln-dried wood is brought to high temperatures during the drying
>> process, which definitely produces chemical and physical changes in the wood.
>
>Not necessarily. Low temperature kiln's are used, although I would admit
>that it is unlikely that the softwood you buy from the borg was done
>that way; large scale drying of softwood is indeed often done at higher
>temperatures, soemthing like 180-240 F.
>
>PK
I'd say it's unlikely the softwood you buy from the borg was ever in the
same county as a kiln.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I thought you had to be trolling; after all, once it has been used, there is
>no difference between kiln dried and air dried wood.
FALSE. Kiln-dried wood is brought to high temperatures during the drying
process, which definitely produces chemical and physical changes in the wood.
>So, being hooked, I
>did a google search and found you are almost right.
>
>You can't let them chew on fresh pine. Pine in your futon frame is dry, not
>fresh. How it got dry does not matter.
This may or may not be true, depending on the specific nature of the danger to
the critter from chewing on fresh pine. For example, it's possible (even
likely) that the high temperatures of kiln drying cause chemical changes in
the resin which result in reducing its toxicity. These changes would *not*
occur during air drying, and thus air-dried pine might present the same
hazards as fresh.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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