Has any one put a micro switch like a burglar alarm window contact on a
blast gate. When the gate is opened, the DC comes on. A gate at each
stationary tool connected to the DC. Wireless (?) By the time you've
stopped cutting, collected/stacked your work, a few seconds, (10-15) have
gone by, and the gate can be closed, shutting down the DC.
Any thoughts? Thanks
Catchy idea, but personally I favor any method that involves fewer points
for failure and less exposure to repair costs.
Don Dando
"Rick Samuel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Has any one put a micro switch like a burglar alarm window contact on a
> blast gate. When the gate is opened, the DC comes on. A gate at each
> stationary tool connected to the DC. Wireless (?) By the time you've
> stopped cutting, collected/stacked your work, a few seconds, (10-15) have
> gone by, and the gate can be closed, shutting down the DC.
> Any thoughts? Thanks
>
>
Rick Samuel wrote:
> Has any one put a micro switch like a burglar alarm window contact on a
> blast gate. When the gate is opened, the DC comes on. A gate at each
> stationary tool connected to the DC. Wireless (?) By the time you've
> stopped cutting, collected/stacked your work, a few seconds, (10-15) have
> gone by, and the gate can be closed, shutting down the DC.
> Any thoughts? Thanks
I've seen kits that do this using Hall Effect switches.
er
--
email not valid
<<<<When I set up the dust collection in my shop I mounted a 2x4 utility box
> with a single pole wall switch adjacent to each blast gate (wired in
> parallel) to turn the DC on an off using a relay. That worked okay, but
when I would move from machine to machine I found I would leave the switch
on and have to go around and hunt for the switch I forgot to turn off. >>>>
That's what I basically had in my old shop. Next to the DC was a medium
size electrical box containing a 220/24V contactor and a 24v tranformer.
The single pole switches were just powering on and off the low-voltage
current to the contactor, which in turn, powered on and off the 220v current
to the nearby DC outlet.
Due to the same frustrations you suffered, the new shop used the same
contactor/low voltage transformer setup, I just went with two 3-way and six
4-way switches (dang them 4-ways are pricey!!) giving me 8 spots to turn on
and off the DC, regardless of where I last switched it on. I was a little
scared of the 4-way wiring scematic at first, but my FIL showed me the
light. In the end, its pretty simple, you just have a perimeter system
where starting one direction from the DC you have one wire going to the
first 3-way, then two wires going to the first 4-way, to the next 4-way and
so one until you hit the final 3-way near the other side of the DC, where
you have one wire going back to the DC electrical box. There are two points
where I needed four wires going to and from the middle of the shop floor (I
buried 1" conduit and DC piping before they poured the floor), but in
reality its a simple system that works great and you don't have to worry
about tricky electronics or misplacing your remote.
I'm thinking about upgrading my 2HP Grizz DC with custom felt bag to the 3HP
Oneida Gorilla, but I'm actually discouraged that it comes with a magnetic
switch, since that will be useless given my setup. Well, I suppose I can
use that switch on another machine, as long as its 3hp.
Cheers
Joe
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 04:28:19 GMT, "Don Dando"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Catchy idea, but personally I favor any method that involves fewer points
>for failure and less exposure to repair costs.
By the time I'd screw around with everything, purchase the parts and
wire, and occasionally fix it, the Long Ranger wireless remote looks
cheap. With a free source of surplus materials... <G>
My personal setup has one overhead switch in each machine area, which
works well until you stack boards in the way and need a yardstick to
shut the switch off.
Barry
On Sun, 19 Feb 2006 10:31:02 -0600, "Rick Samuel" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Has any one put a micro switch like a burglar alarm window contact on a
>blast gate.
Loads of people. It's easy to do, hard to do well.
Waste of time and effort, IMHO. Microswitching the gate itself is asking
for trouble with dust clogging. As no-one really needs to save that
amount of effort, just mount another switch nearby and use both shutter
and switch together.
Even easier is to simply wall mount a remote switch for the DC. Few
workshops are going to need more than a couple to put a switch within
easy reach of any machine.
--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.
When I set up the dust collection in my shop I mounted a 2x4 utility box
with a single pole wall switch adjacent to each blast gate (wired in
parallel) to turn the DC on an off using a relay. That worked okay, but
when I would move from machine to machine I found I would leave the switch
on and have to go around and hunt for the switch I forgot to turn off.
After a while I went back and added magnet reed switches (used for burglar
alarms) to each blast gate (I happen to have metal blast gates). I attached
the magnets to the metal slides, and mounted the reed switch on a piece of
3/4" aluminum angle attached to the frame of the gate by a couple of long #8
machine screws. Now, when I open a blast gate the DC comes on, When I shut
it, it goes off. If you are interested in details let me know or I would be
glad to send a photo of the mounting setup. It's kind of hard to describe
but it was really easy to do. Just be sure to use switches whose contacts
are open when in proximity to the magnet.
Rick