Hi,
I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
What am I missing??
TIA
-m
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You aren't missing anything (yet).
>
> Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
> Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
> spinning.
>
> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>
> Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
> whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
> Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
Steve, I think you are an idiot
"Infidelwillcrushyou" <[email protected]> wrote:
> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>
> You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct
> insert should not have this issue. You can make the insert thiner by
> either resawing it on a band saw or running it through
> a planer.
>
> Whatever you do, please do not follow the recommendation of lowering
> it onto the whirling blade ~ that is IGNORANT!
Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!
>
>
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first
>> > time I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the
>> > slot. My first instinct was to lower the blade completely under
>> > the table, turn
> on
>> > the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in
>> > place. However, even when the blade is at its lowest point, the
>> > bottom of the insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this
>> > way to get the
> slot
>> > started.
>> >
>> > What am I missing??
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>> > -m
>> You aren't missing anything (yet).
>>
>> Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully
>> lowered). Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start
>> the saw blade spinning.
>>
>> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>>
>> Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto
>> the whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the
>> throat. Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
>>
>> WHen you have it cut through, turn off the saw and remove the new
>> zero clearance throat plate. Take a sharp chisel to the bottom side
>> to clean
> off
>> the accumulated crud-stuff.
>>
>> While care and good fortune you will still "not be missing anything"
>> and you'll have your ZCTP ready for use :-)
>>
>> -- Steve
>> www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
>>
>>
>>
>>
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> News==----
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>> >100,000
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>
>
"Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:sw2fd.3958$8R.1579@trnddc02...
> Fly-by-Night CC <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > In article <%K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02>,
> > Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!
> >
> > I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is
> > fully lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the blade
> > won't let the very front of the insert fully seat by an amount just
> > shy of 3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf cutting). The rear
> > of the insert is in the throat and resting on the rear lugs - you're
> > only pivoting the front downward to fully seat on the front lugs. When
> > you're done the blade is still below the top of the insert's surface
> > so you aren't exposing yourself to a bare blade. Stand to the very
> > side of the saw so that you can hold the back of the insert with one
> > hand and lower the front with the other.
> >
> > What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
> > unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
> > registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
> > mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the
> > forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat
> > opening.
> >
> > It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
> > table-mounted router.
> >
>
> Other than having your hands far too close to the path of the blade? I
> may be over cautious, but I've got all my fingers. I've made several zero
> clearance inserts and in all cases I've manged to lower the blade enough
> to allow screwing the insert to the table prior to cutting the slot.
>
> Something I'll definitely be checking if I buy another saw.
>
> LD
I'll have to admit that I thought "is he friggin' kidding?" when the first
person posted about lowering the insert by hand onto the blade. Hey, if he
and Owen feel safe doing that, more power to them. I wouldn't feel safe
doing it. But, as I think Owen mentioned, it's pretty simple matter to just
throw the 8" blade from the dado kit on to make the cut, if need be.
todd
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 20:46:19 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
<snip>
>I can't believe how much controversy this question generated, but I really
>do appreciate all the different opinions. I have many smaller blades at my
>disposal including both circular and dado cutters. I don't know why I
>didn't think to mount a smaller blade first, but that's the method I'm going
>to use. While the first suggestion may work, I'm personally just not
>comfortable lowering such a small piece of material onto a spinning blade --
>not when I could just use a smaller blade and the clamp down method to get
>the same result.
>
ya know, mike... that's the beauty of groups like this... the things
that one person hadn't thought of are the "been there, done that's" of
others in the group...
I've only been following rec.woodworking for about 3 weeks,
(recommended by 3 guys in a Dodge NG!), but the tricks, short cuts and
safety stuff I've learned here have helped me so much...
Just bookmarking the pages of some of the folks in the group with
skills that I envy is like having a wood working course on disk!!
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Infidelwillcrushyou" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>>
> <snip>
>
> Then you should never read page 62 of the Popular SCience "200
> Original Shop Aids & Jigs for woodworkers" book by Rosario Capotosto
> where he presents his Circular Work Edging Jig
>
> Gracious me oh my! Comments such as that retort have no place in the
> world of careful reading and care in execution.
> If one has no comfort level in attempting a task, it's a no-brainer:
> don't do it!!!!
>
> If you are comfortable in the care that's required, then take a stab
> at it.
>
> I was taught how to lower a block onto a whirling blade by a Master
> better
> than 35 years ago.
> I use the same technique today. I AM comfortable with doing it -- it
> IS safe to do.
>
> Those who do not understand the actual meaning of the word "ignorant"
> may take a seat at the back of the bus and (with great hope) never get
> off at a polling place.
Do you suppose that the OP was capable of doing this on his own for the
first time? It was an incredibly stupid piece of advice to give to
someone who obviously had limited experience.
LD
>
> -- Steve
> www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
> Wrong begins with Dubya~!~
>
>
>
>
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> World! >100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total
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>
In article <[email protected]>, Sam
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Running a piece as small as an insert through a planner doesn't seem
> like a swell idea either.
Use a sled. It'll be fine.
"Frank J. Vitale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
> running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
> raise the bade.
How do you align the new insert perfectly with the bottom one?
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
The Delta inserts have a clearance pre-cut.
- Nate
" What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening."
This is EXACTLY the kind of thinking that resulted in my losing the dip
joint of my left ring finger. I cannot believe anybody in this NG would
give advice like this.
!!!!!TRUST ME, THAT IS THE MOST MORONIC PIECE OF ADVICE I HAVE SEEN IN
PRINT!!!!
Things happen so quickly with your fingers so close to that spinning
blade...
--
-Jim
©¿©¬
I don't know about other saws, but my Sears lowers a 10 inch blade
well below the insert.
"Bob G." wrote:
>
> Common problem with just about every brand of Tablesaw...even when
> lowered a 10 inch blade will not allow the insert to be lowered flush
> with the saws table ...
>
> As others have said just use a smaller blade... I find that easier
> then using a router etc to precut a shallow grouve in the bottom of
> the insert...
>
> Just remember to "clamp" down the insert (2 x 4's or using the
> fence...when you raise the blade...
>
> Piece of cake really.....
>
> Bob Griffiths
> On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
> >owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
> >instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
> >power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
> >even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
> >it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
> >
> >What am I missing??
> >
> >TIA
> >
> >-m
> >
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
> Hi,
>
> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time
> I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My
> first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on
> the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place.
> However, even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the
> insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot
> started.
>
> What am I missing??
>
> TIA
>
> -m
You aren't missing anything (yet).
Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
spinning.
Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
WHen you have it cut through, turn off the saw and remove the new zero
clearance throat plate. Take a sharp chisel to the bottom side to clean off
the accumulated crud-stuff.
While care and good fortune you will still "not be missing anything" and
you'll have your ZCTP ready for use :-)
-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
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Steve responds:
>"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time
>> I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My
>> first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on
>> the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place.
>> However, even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the
>> insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot
>> started.
>>
>> What am I missing??
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> -m
>You aren't missing anything (yet).
>
>Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
>Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
>spinning.
>
>Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>
>Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
>whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
>Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
>
>WHen you have it cut through, turn off the saw and remove the new zero
>clearance throat plate. Take a sharp chisel to the bottom side to clean off
>the accumulated crud-stuff.
>
>While care and good fortune you will still "not be missing anything" and
>you'll have your ZCTP ready for use :-)
>
You, sir, lack common sense. You have described an excellent way to lose a
finger or two.
Use a smaller blade to start the cut. An 8-1/4" works fine, as does an 8" off a
dado set. Even a 7-1/4" off a circular saw will do well in a pinch.
Make sure the zero clearance insert is held (I clamp a piece of 2x4 over mine,
wide side down). Raise the small blade into the insert, until it is fully
raised. Shut the saw down. Lower that blade and change to a 10". Repeat the
process, including the holddown.
Do not EVER use your bare hands to place an item onto a spinning blade. NEVER.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| Steve responds:
|
| >"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
| >news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
| >> Hi,
| >>
| >> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first
time
| >> I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot.
My
| >> first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table,
turn on
| >> the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in
place.
| >> However, even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of
the
| >> insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get
the slot
| >> started.
| >>
| >> What am I missing??
| >>
| >> TIA
| >>
| >> -m
| >You aren't missing anything (yet).
| >
| >Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully
lowered).
| >Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw
blade
| >spinning.
| >
| >Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
| >
| >Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto
the
| >whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
| >Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
| >
| >WHen you have it cut through, turn off the saw and remove the new
zero
| >clearance throat plate. Take a sharp chisel to the bottom side to
clean off
| >the accumulated crud-stuff.
| >
| >While care and good fortune you will still "not be missing anything"
and
| >you'll have your ZCTP ready for use :-)
| >
|
| You, sir, lack common sense. You have described an excellent way to
lose a
| finger or two.
|
| Use a smaller blade to start the cut. An 8-1/4" works fine, as does an
8" off a
| dado set. Even a 7-1/4" off a circular saw will do well in a pinch.
|
| Make sure the zero clearance insert is held (I clamp a piece of 2x4
over mine,
| wide side down). Raise the small blade into the insert, until it is
fully
| raised. Shut the saw down. Lower that blade and change to a 10".
Repeat the
| process, including the holddown.
|
| Do not EVER use your bare hands to place an item onto a spinning
blade. NEVER.
|
| Charlie Self
| "When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue
is not
| hereditary." Thomas Paine
LISTEN TO CHARLIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
"Nate" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>
> The Delta inserts have a clearance pre-cut.
>
>
> - Nate
>
I was just relating to the aftermarket UHMW insert blank I worked on last
week.
It required a bit of bandsaw work to clear space for the splitter before I
could even begin to lower it onto the table saw blade.
--
-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
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Couple of brads to hold until the kerf's made....
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Very carefully! Actually I used that method to cut an insert without
> the aid of a smaller diameter blade. One way to do it is align a
> straight edge against one long edge of the original insert, lay the new
> insert on top, making sure that the front or rear edge is correctly
> positioned, tape it down and then clamp a board over the whole thing.
> Start up the saw and bring the blade up through the new insert. Shut
> her down, remove both inserts, install the new insert, cover with a
> board ( clamped to the table top)off to the side of the slot, and finish
> cutting the insert to the maximum exposure of the blade.
>
> David
>
> Leon wrote:
>
> > "Frank J. Vitale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
> >>running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
> >>raise the bade.
> >
> >
> >
> > How do you align the new insert perfectly with the bottom one?
> >
> >
"Infidelwillcrushyou" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>
<snip>
Then you should never read page 62 of the Popular SCience "200 Original Shop
Aids & Jigs for woodworkers" book by Rosario Capotosto where he presents
his Circular Work Edging Jig
Gracious me oh my! Comments such as that retort have no place in the world
of careful reading and care in execution.
If one has no comfort level in attempting a task, it's a no-brainer: don't
do it!!!!
If you are comfortable in the care that's required, then take a stab at it.
I was taught how to lower a block onto a whirling blade by a Master better
than 35 years ago.
I use the same technique today. I AM comfortable with doing it -- it IS
safe to do.
Those who do not understand the actual meaning of the word "ignorant" may
take a seat at the back of the bus and (with great hope) never get off at a
polling place.
-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
Wrong begins with Dubya~!~
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---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
Better than loosing your PIP joint.
rhg
Tim and Stephanie wrote:
>>This is EXACTLY the kind of thinking that resulted in my losing the dip
>>joint of my left ring finger.
>
>
> Jeez, you lost your dip joint? I hate that! Did it grow back?
>
>
>>!!!!!TRUST ME, THAT IS THE MOST MORONIC PIECE OF ADVICE I HAVE SEEN IN
>>PRINT!!!!
>
>
> Trust me, I've seen far worse.
>
>
>
>
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
>owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
>instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
>power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
>even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
>it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
>
>What am I missing??
I usually run a slot on the underside of the insert with the outer
blades from a dado set, just to give it enough relief for the 10"
blade to fit.
Then I clamp on a piece of waste stock over the insert, clamp it down,
and run the 10" blade up very slowly.
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
>owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
>instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
>power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
>even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
>it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
>
>What am I missing??
>
>TIA
>
>-m
>
got a 7-1/4" skilsaw blade? mount that in your unisaw to start the
cut.
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 04:01:55 -0500, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Steve wrote:
>>Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
>>whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
>>Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
>
>
>I think you forgot the step just prior to this.
>
>"Be sure you are wearing a diaper".
>
>UA100
I think that step might be "have the ambulance parked outside and your
medical insurance card clenched between your teeth"..
On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 01:41:26 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I don't know about other saws, but my Sears lowers a 10 inch blade
>well below the insert.
My powermatic won't drop below the inserts I make from 1/2" stock.
In article <kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05>,
Mike Pio <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
>owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
>instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
>power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
>even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
>it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
>
>What am I missing??
>
>TIA
>
>-m
>
>
The usually recommended method is to use a smaller diameter blade to
start the slot. However, the last time I made some, I used this method
which worked well for me:
Raise the stock insert slightly above the table and bring the fence
over to it so it just touches the insert. Then push the stock insert
back down. Put the ZC insert on top of the stock insert. Clamp a block
of wood to the fence over the top of the zc insert. Clamp another block
to the fence in front of the ZC insert to prevent it from being pushed
back by the blade. Use a push stick to hold the ZC insert tight to the
fence and slowly raise the blade til it just emerges from the new
insert. When you're ready to use the new insert you can install it and
cut the slot to the length you desire.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
mac davis wrote:
>I think that step might be "have the ambulance parked outside and your
>medical insurance card clenched between your teeth"..
Yahbut I think if you'd poll most any EMT you'd find they
would appreciate it and thus do a better job if the fecal
matter is/was well contained.
Not saying you shouldn't be ready, specially with the
insurance card within reach.
UA100
"Infidelwillcrushyou" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>
> You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
> should not have this issue. You can make the insert thiner by either
> resawing it on a band saw or running it through
> a planer.
>
> Whatever you do, please do not follow the recommendation of lowering it onto
> the whirling blade ~ that is IGNORANT!
Running a piece as small as an insert through a planner doesn't seem
like a swell idea either.
woodcraftssuch writes:
>"Infidelwillcrushyou" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:<[email protected]>...
>> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
>> should not have this issue. You can make the insert thiner by either
>> resawing it on a band saw or running it through
>> a planer.
>>
>> Whatever you do, please do not follow the recommendation of lowering it
>onto
>> the whirling blade ~ that is IGNORANT!
>
>Running a piece as small as an insert through a planner doesn't seem
>like a swell idea either.
But it's fast and simple to make a carriage for it.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
On 28 Oct 2004 08:29:51 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
>woodcraftssuch writes:
>
>>"Infidelwillcrushyou" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:<[email protected]>...
>>> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>>>
>>> You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
>>> should not have this issue. You can make the insert thiner by either
>>> resawing it on a band saw or running it through
>>> a planer.
>>>
>>> Whatever you do, please do not follow the recommendation of lowering it
>>onto
>>> the whirling blade ~ that is IGNORANT!
>>
>>Running a piece as small as an insert through a planner doesn't seem
>>like a swell idea either.
>
>But it's fast and simple to make a carriage for it.
>
>Charlie Self
>"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
>hereditary." Thomas Paine
What good would it do to make the insert thinner?
Tom Watson asks:
>>>> You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
>>>> should not have this issue. You can make the insert thiner by either
>>>> resawing it on a band saw or running it through
>>>> a planer.
>>>>
>>>> Whatever you do, please do not follow the recommendation of lowering it
>>>onto
>>>> the whirling blade ~ that is IGNORANT!
>>>
>>>Running a piece as small as an insert through a planner doesn't seem
>>>like a swell idea either.
>>
>>But it's fast and simple to make a carriage for it.
>>
>>Charlie Self
>>"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
>>hereditary." Thomas Paine
>
>
>What good would it do to make the insert thinner?
Well, you'd have a thinner insert, which could then be drilled and tapped for
allen head adjustment screws to lift it up level with the table top, after you
were able to run the 10" blade through to make the ZCI. :)
Of course, doing the job with an 8" and then the 10", is much, much easier and
works better.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
On 28 Oct 2004 10:19:14 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
>Tom Watson asks:
>>What good would it do to make the insert thinner?
>
>Well, you'd have a thinner insert, which could then be drilled and tapped for
>allen head adjustment screws to lift it up level with the table top, after you
>were able to run the 10" blade through to make the ZCI. :)
>
>Of course, doing the job with an 8" and then the 10", is much, much easier and
>works better.
>
>Charlie Self
OK. I make mine up flat, without adjustment screws, so I wasn't
getting the point.
Tom Watson responds:
>>Tom Watson asks:
>
>>>What good would it do to make the insert thinner?
>>
>>Well, you'd have a thinner insert, which could then be drilled and tapped
>for
>>allen head adjustment screws to lift it up level with the table top, after
>you
>>were able to run the 10" blade through to make the ZCI. :)
>>
>>Of course, doing the job with an 8" and then the 10", is much, much easier
>and
>>works better.
>>
>>Charlie Self
>
>
>OK. I make mine up flat, without adjustment screws, so I wasn't
>getting the point.
Yup. Over-complicating the simple is sometimes fun (this probably wouldn't be
one of the times, though).
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
Common problem with just about every brand of Tablesaw...even when
lowered a 10 inch blade will not allow the insert to be lowered flush
with the saws table ...
As others have said just use a smaller blade... I find that easier
then using a router etc to precut a shallow grouve in the bottom of
the insert...
Just remember to "clamp" down the insert (2 x 4's or using the
fence...when you raise the blade...
Piece of cake really.....
Bob Griffiths
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
>owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
>instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
>power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
>even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
>it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
>
>What am I missing??
>
>TIA
>
>-m
>
"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <<What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
> unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
> registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
> mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the
> forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat
> opening.>>
>
> I imagine the leading edge of the spinning saw blade could catch the
> stock and send it spinning up and back ala kickback and startling the
> operator into a reflexive action resulting in one of those Sawstop
> hotdog demonstrations, only without the hotdog.
Or the Mayo, or the Lettuce, or the Sawstop ...
>
> Lee
>
>
Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote:
> Steve wrote:
>>Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
>>whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
>>Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
>
>
> I think you forgot the step just prior to this.
>
> "Be sure you are wearing a diaper".
A BIG one! LOL!
>
> UA100
>
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
> Hi,
>
> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time
> I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My
> first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on
> the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place.
> However, even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the
> insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot
> started.
>
> What am I missing??
>
> TIA
>
> -m
>
I can't believe how much controversy this question generated, but I really
do appreciate all the different opinions. I have many smaller blades at my
disposal including both circular and dado cutters. I don't know why I
didn't think to mount a smaller blade first, but that's the method I'm going
to use. While the first suggestion may work, I'm personally just not
comfortable lowering such a small piece of material onto a spinning blade --
not when I could just use a smaller blade and the clamp down method to get
the same result.
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
I had the same problem with my saw (a General 650), where the blade can be
lowered just a little more than 1/4" below the surface, but not the full
1/2" required. I do not (yet) own a dado or a smaller blade....
So to make mine, I used a 1/4" straight bit in the router, set to 1/4"
depth, and used an edge guide set so the cut groove is the where the blade
will be. If you don't have an edge guide, use whatever method you like to
cut measured straight grooves. Make the groove extend about 4" front and
back of blade center. This will leave 1/4" of material to host the zero
clearance slot.
I could now lock down the insert sitting flush before raising the saw blade
through it.(again, this requires that the blade be lowered at least 1/4"
below table surface).
As an added benefit (YMMV), the sides of the insert's zero clearance slot
are now only 1/4" deep, rather than 1/2", which means less noise, and I
would think less wear on the sides of the blade's teeth.
/rick.
Infidelwillcrushyou wrote:
> PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
>
> You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
> should not have this issue.
That's not exactly true; it's quite common. The proper response is to put a
single dado blade in the saw, then raise that blade through the insert. Whereas
a 10" blade doesn't have the clearance, a 8" blade shouldn't have a bit of
trouble.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
> Hi,
>
> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw.
> What am I missing??
I've made and used zci's cut from 3/8 to 1/2 inch stock. I made the initial
cut by putting on a 8 in. dado blade or a 7 1/4 circular saw blade. I
position the fence over the insert to be cut and raise the blade. But I
don't use the zci's much any more because they don't allow the saw dust to
be sucked down the slot well. If I have some material that may have a
tendency to splinter, I just make a shallow scoring cut. If I'm using my
crosscut sled or dado jig I remove the insert altogether because this allows
the "full suck" of the dust collection to function. Apenas mi valor de dos
centavos.
Larry
--
Lawrence L'Hote
Columbia, MO
http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote
"Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:sw2fd.3958$8R.1579@trnddc02...
>> Fly-by-Night CC <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > In article <%K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02>,
>> > Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!
>> >
>> > I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is
>> > fully lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the
>> > blade won't let the very front of the insert fully seat by an
>> > amount just shy of 3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf
>> > cutting). The rear of the insert is in the throat and resting on
>> > the rear lugs - you're only pivoting the front downward to fully
>> > seat on the front lugs. When you're done the blade is still below
>> > the top of the insert's surface so you aren't exposing yourself to
>> > a bare blade. Stand to the very side of the saw so that you can
>> > hold the back of the insert with one hand and lower the front with
>> > the other.
>> >
>> > What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
>> > unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening.
>> > It's registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion
>> > (as I mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits
>> > the forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the
>> > throat opening.
>> >
>> > It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
>> > table-mounted router.
>> >
>>
>> Other than having your hands far too close to the path of the blade?
>> I may be over cautious, but I've got all my fingers. I've made
>> several zero clearance inserts and in all cases I've manged to lower
>> the blade enough to allow screwing the insert to the table prior to
>> cutting the slot.
>>
>> Something I'll definitely be checking if I buy another saw.
>>
>> LD
>
> I'll have to admit that I thought "is he friggin' kidding?" when the
> first person posted about lowering the insert by hand onto the blade.
> Hey, if he and Owen feel safe doing that, more power to them. I
> wouldn't feel safe doing it.
> But, as I think Owen mentioned, it's
> pretty simple matter to just throw the 8" blade from the dado kit on
> to make the cut, if need be.
I can see doing that to get clearance for the blade on the insert. Then
pull the dado blade and make the final cut with the desired blade.
>
> todd
>
>
>
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> "Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first
>> time I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the
>> slot. My first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the
>> table, turn on the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new
>> insert in place. However, even when the blade is at its lowest point,
>> the bottom of the insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw
>> this way to get the slot started.
>>
>> What am I missing??
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> -m
> You aren't missing anything (yet).
>
> Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
> Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw
> blade spinning.
>
> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>
> Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto
> the whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the
> throat. Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
>
> WHen you have it cut through, turn off the saw and remove the new zero
> clearance throat plate. Take a sharp chisel to the bottom side to
> clean off the accumulated crud-stuff.
>
> While care and good fortune you will still "not be missing anything"
> and you'll have your ZCTP ready for use :-)
>
> -- Steve
> www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
Or, much more safely, mount a blade from your 8" dado set, and cut the slot
most of the way through that way.
Or, also safely, install the factory Unisaw insert, and double stick tape
the zero clearance plate over it. Then clamp the sandwich to the table top
with a tubafor and a couple of clamps, and raise your blade slowly through
the zero clearance plate.
I use these methods all of the time with shop-made zero clearance inserts.
I'm really nervous about the method Steve recommends...
You may want to google the archives regarding these inserts. There was a
good thread, humourous and informative, on making these yourself, sometime
in the last year or so. Originated by Unisaw A100, I believe.
Patriarch
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
>owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
>instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
>power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
>even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
>it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
>
>What am I missing??
>
>TIA
>
>-m
>
Howdy,
You have lots of good suggestions already, but I will add another
thought:
Shine a light into the saw to see if any crud is preventing lowering
the blade a bit more. You may have all the clearance you need.
HTH,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!
You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
should not have this issue. You can make the insert thiner by either
resawing it on a band saw or running it through
a planer.
Whatever you do, please do not follow the recommendation of lowering it onto
the whirling blade ~ that is IGNORANT!
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time
> > I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My
> > first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn
on
> > the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place.
> > However, even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the
> > insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the
slot
> > started.
> >
> > What am I missing??
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > -m
> You aren't missing anything (yet).
>
> Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
> Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
> spinning.
>
> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>
> Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
> whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
> Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
>
> WHen you have it cut through, turn off the saw and remove the new zero
> clearance throat plate. Take a sharp chisel to the bottom side to clean
off
> the accumulated crud-stuff.
>
> While care and good fortune you will still "not be missing anything" and
> you'll have your ZCTP ready for use :-)
>
> -- Steve
> www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
>
>
>
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
News==----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000
Newsgroups
> ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Nate" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>>
>> The Delta inserts have a clearance pre-cut.
>>
>>
>> - Nate
>>
> I was just relating to the aftermarket UHMW insert blank I worked on
> last week.
> It required a bit of bandsaw work to clear space for the splitter
> before I could even begin to lower it onto the table saw blade.
Lower it onto the blade? I always slowly raise the blade into the already
fastened insert. Lowering the insert onto a blade sounds pretty risky:
assuming you are talking about cutting the zero clearance throat.
LD
BMR <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> just back from an extended hiatus from the wreck
>
> I haven't read the enter thread, but here's my solution ...
>
> 1. adjust your current insert so it sits slightly BELOW the table top
> (i.e., not flush) and lower the blade all the way down
>
> 2. sit your new insert on top of the old insert - it will fit right in
> and and sit flat, but won't move
>
> 3. place a board on top and clamp down
>
> 4. start the TS and raise the blade to cut the slot in the new insert
>
> voila!
>
> ...rick
Rick,
That solution is far too practical to be effective. ;^>
Cheers,
Mike
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:kB%ed.43686$bk1.41465@fed1read05...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first
>> time I've owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the
>> slot. My first instinct was to lower the blade completely under the
>> table, turn on the power, then slowly raise the blade with the new
>> insert in place. However, even when the blade is at its lowest point,
>> the bottom of the insert hits it. I couldn't possibly run the saw
>> this way to get the slot started.
>>
>> What am I missing??
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> -m
>>
>
>
> I can't believe how much controversy this question generated, but I
> really do appreciate all the different opinions. I have many smaller
> blades at my disposal including both circular and dado cutters. I
> don't know why I didn't think to mount a smaller blade first, but
> that's the method I'm going to use. While the first suggestion may
> work, I'm personally just not comfortable lowering such a small piece
> of material onto a spinning blade -- not when I could just use a
> smaller blade and the clamp down method to get the same result.
>
>
>
Good! Glad to see you can still type! :o)
<<What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.>>
I imagine the leading edge of the spinning saw blade could catch the stock
and send it spinning up and back ala kickback and startling the operator
into a reflexive action resulting in one of those Sawstop hotdog
demonstrations, only without the hotdog.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
Yeah I know - never use an existing tool when you can justify an
excuse to SWMBO to buy another.
:*)
...rick
On 2 Nov 2004 08:35:50 -0800, [email protected] (Mike) wrote:
>BMR <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> just back from an extended hiatus from the wreck
>>
>> I haven't read the enter thread, but here's my solution ...
>>
>> 1. adjust your current insert so it sits slightly BELOW the table top
>> (i.e., not flush) and lower the blade all the way down
>>
>> 2. sit your new insert on top of the old insert - it will fit right in
>> and and sit flat, but won't move
>>
>> 3. place a board on top and clamp down
>>
>> 4. start the TS and raise the blade to cut the slot in the new insert
>>
>> voila!
>>
>> ...rick
>
>Rick,
>
>That solution is far too practical to be effective. ;^>
>
>Cheers,
>Mike
patriarch wrote:
>You may want to google the archives regarding these inserts. There was a
>good thread, humourous and informative, on making these yourself, sometime
>in the last year or so. Originated by Unisaw A100, I believe.
Good? Humorous? Informative? Me? I think it must have
been that Greg Millen guy.
Anyways, for anyone wanting to re-read, here it is.
UA100
The following presumes you have a right tilting Delta
Unisaw. Please make the necessary adjustments for your make
of saw, insert thickness and blade tilt direction.
How To Make A Zero Clearance Insert With Splitter:
1) Go to Home Depot/Lowes and give an eye up to the stack
of 1/2" MDF.
2) Find a sheet that hasn't been dinged by the fork lift
tines during the twice weekly Warehouse Rodeo and Jousting
Championship.
3) Wrestle the sheet off and onto one of the (insert color
here) flat carts.
4) Wheel it back to the nice man at the Safety Speed-Cut
panel saw.
5) Instruct him to make cross cuts at about 32". You may
choose to use another size(s). Exercise this option now.
6) Load the cut sheets back onto the cart, stand in line,
let everyone know how peeved you are that you are being made
to stand in line, make an ass of yourself and then pay the
nice people at the check out.
7) When back at the shop set aside one piece for a table
saw sled to be built later. Set another aside for future
projects or jigs and fixtures.
8) With the last piece begin ripping the sheet into pieces
1/16"ish wider than your table saw blade insert.
9) Cross cut the pieces 1/16"ish longer than your insert.
10) Make a template. Here's where people usually chime in
to just use your present insert to make the new inserts. I
prefer to make a template for reasons that will be made
known shortly.
11) Start with your OEM insert and trace a line around it
onto one of the MDF blanks.
12) Band saw (jig saw) the rounded ends off.
13) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and buy some 3M (Scotch)
No. 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape. It has a proper amount of
tackiness but isn't so think that the template/item being
cut will shift thus spoiling the cut.
14) Double face tape the MDF to the OEM insert with
4-pieces of tape 1" long. Press together using hand
pressure.
15) Load router table with router bit having a bearing on
top. Raise bit until the cutter is a red cubic hair or so
above the thickness of the MDF.
16) Run the MDF/OEM insert sandwich into the bit and trim
off all edges and ends.
17) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and purchase a box of 1/2-8
flat head Phillips sheet metal screws.
18) Using the OEM insert to locate, drill and countersink
the face of your template for four of these screws.
19) Insert screws so that points just peek out by 1/32"ish.
20) Using this template take another of the MDF blanks and
press the pointy end screw side onto the blank.
21) Rout off the excess as you did above with the template
and OEM insert.
22) Rinse and repeat until all blanks are routed.
23) Drill and countersink the face of the MDF insert for
leveling screws. Step 20 will have pre-located these for
you. Insert 1/2-8 flat head Phillips screws into freshly
drilled and countersunk holes so tips are just coming
through.
24) Into the edge of each template drill and countersink a
hole for a 3/4" course thread drywall screw of other screw
of your choosing. Do the same with one screw on the end of
the MDF insert. Be sure to oversize this hole so the screw
does not split the MDF. This screw hole is not structural.
25) Insert screws into freshly drilled and countersunk
holes.
26) Place MDF insert into blade opening in table saw.
Check for fit. Adjust leveling screws so insert is flush
with the saw table. Adjust the edge screws in or out for
perfect snug fit.
26) Repeat the above with three blanks for every saw blade
you own, i.e., you have four blades then fit up twelve
inserts.
27) Using your dado set place onto the saw arbor the two
outside cutters.
28) Insert MDF insert into blade opening and park the saw
fence over it but to the wide side away from the line of the
dado set below.
29) Raise dado set until the cutters are just starting to
bulge through the face of the MDF insert.
30) Repeat until all inserts are done.
31) Replace dado cutters with your saw blade and repeat the
raising through though this time raise the blade as high as
it will go.
32) Carefully measure from the fence side face of the saw
blade to the fence side edge of the insert and set saw fence
at that setting.
33) Feed one of the inserts into the saw blade for 1 1/2".
Stop and withdraw.
34) Set up porty planer and begin planing stock to a
thickness that matches the kerf made in the last step.
Note: Don't presume that you only need to plane the wood to
the advertised blade kerf unless your saw has zero run out.
35) Cut and fit the freshly planed stock into the kerf.
Let it stick out a minimum of 1/4" plus the thickness of
whatever material you expect to be cutting, i.e., for 3/4"
material you will want this to stand 1".
36) Glue freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock into kerf
slot in the MDF insert. When dry, insert MDF insert into
saw blade opening and rip a piece of wood. Check to see
that there is no gap between the wood and the freshly glued,
freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock.
37) Repeat until all inserts for all inserts are done.
38) Set aside balance of insert blanks to be used at a
later date or for when you set up for dado cutting.
39) Post your horrible experience at Home Depot/Lowes on
rec.woodorking and make an ass of yourself.
UA100
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 06:06:22 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>Or, also safely, install the factory Unisaw insert, and double stick tape
>the zero clearance plate over it. Then clamp the sandwich to the table top
>with a tubafor and a couple of clamps, and raise your blade slowly through
>the zero clearance plate.
>
>I use these methods all of the time with shop-made zero clearance inserts.
>I'm really nervous about the method Steve recommends...
>
>You may want to google the archives regarding these inserts. There was a
>good thread, humourous and informative, on making these yourself, sometime
>in the last year or so. Originated by Unisaw A100, I believe.
>
>Patriarch
I've never had one that I couldn't lower the blade enough to miss, but
if I did...
I might try the partially installed insert thing like the answer that
scared everyone, but with your 2x4 method... at least my hand(s) would
be a few feet from the blade in case the insert bound or something..
In article <%K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02>,
Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
> Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!
I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is fully
lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the blade won't
let the very front of the insert fully seat by an amount just shy of
3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf cutting). The rear of the
insert is in the throat and resting on the rear lugs - you're only
pivoting the front downward to fully seat on the front lugs. When you're
done the blade is still below the top of the insert's surface so you
aren't exposing yourself to a bare blade. Stand to the very side of the
saw so that you can hold the back of the insert with one hand and lower
the front with the other.
What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.
It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
Owen Lowe notes:
>What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
>The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
>registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
>mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
>lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.
>
>It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
>table-mounted router.
Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:53:51 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote:
>
>> >It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
>> >table-mounted router.
>>
>> Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely
>
>Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
>don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
>nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.
>
>||||/ \||||
>
>See? Still got all 10. ;)
Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?
--
"Excess regulation and government spending destroy jobs and increase
unemployment. Every regulator we fire results in the creation of over
150 new jobs, enough to hire the ex-regulator, the unemployed, and
the able-bodied poor." -Michael Badnarik
VOTE LIBERTARIAN ON NOVEMBER 2, 2004 OR YOU WON'T CHANGE ANYTHING.
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 21:54:53 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>> Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
>> length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
>> sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?
>
>N-o-t-a. Lathe work wears out my fingers as I check for flats and rough
>spots and while friction polishing. The gloves I usually wear have all
>worn out in the fingertips...
"I see." he replied, with a large grin.
(Please note that I succeeded in -not- mentioning the term
"friction polishing", a phrase upon which kids'd go wild.)
--
"Excess regulation and government spending destroy jobs and increase
unemployment. Every regulator we fire results in the creation of over
150 new jobs, enough to hire the ex-regulator, the unemployed, and
the able-bodied poor." -Michael Badnarik
VOTE LIBERTARIAN ON NOVEMBER 2, 2004 OR YOU WON'T CHANGE ANYTHING.
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:53:51 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote:
>
>> >It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
>> >table-mounted router.
>>
>> Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely
>
>Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
>don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
>nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.
>
>||||/ \||||
>
>See? Still got all 10. ;)
well, don't know about fear being all that bad....
I have a healthy fear/respect for the moving things in the shop, and
if I ever lose that, I'll quit.... IMHO, when you get too comfortable
and safe feeling, you're going to make one of those "I KNEW better,
but...." mistakes and lose some skin..
"Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:onlnlowe-
>
> ||||/ \||||
>
> See? Still got all 10. ;)
Yah but now they are all the same length... That does not count. LOL
In article <[email protected]>,
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
> "friction polishing", a phrase upon which kids'd go wild.
It's not just kids.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
In article <[email protected]>,
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
> Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
> length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
> sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?
N-o-t-a. Lathe work wears out my fingers as I check for flats and rough
spots and while friction polishing. The gloves I usually wear have all
worn out in the fingertips...
;)
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote:
> >It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
> >table-mounted router.
>
> Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely
Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.
||||/ \||||
See? Still got all 10. ;)
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 18:44:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:53:51 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
><[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>> [email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote:
>>
>>> >It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
>>> >table-mounted router.
>>>
>>> Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely
>>
>>Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
>>don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
>>nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.
>>
>>||||/ \||||
>>
>>See? Still got all 10. ;)
>
>Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
>length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
>sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?
hell, any good wood worker know that for a surface that flat, you need
a jointer...
In article <[email protected]>, "Steve" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
> Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
> spinning.
>
> Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!
>
> Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
> whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
> Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
This is generally the way I do it - you can also use the fence to ensure
the insert is lowered parallel to the blade. An alternative is to mount
a smaller diameter blade that allows the insert to be fully seated
before turning the saw on but then you need to be sure both blades make
the same kerf width.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
Very carefully! Actually I used that method to cut an insert without
the aid of a smaller diameter blade. One way to do it is align a
straight edge against one long edge of the original insert, lay the new
insert on top, making sure that the front or rear edge is correctly
positioned, tape it down and then clamp a board over the whole thing.
Start up the saw and bring the blade up through the new insert. Shut
her down, remove both inserts, install the new insert, cover with a
board ( clamped to the table top)off to the side of the slot, and finish
cutting the insert to the maximum exposure of the blade.
David
Leon wrote:
> "Frank J. Vitale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
>>running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
>>raise the bade.
>
>
>
> How do you align the new insert perfectly with the bottom one?
>
>
just back from an extended hiatus from the wreck
I haven't read the enter thread, but here's my solution ...
1. adjust your current insert so it sits slightly BELOW the table top
(i.e., not flush) and lower the blade all the way down
2. sit your new insert on top of the old insert - it will fit right in
and and sit flat, but won't move
3. place a board on top and clamp down
4. start the TS and raise the blade to cut the slot in the new insert
voila!
...rick
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
>owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
>instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
>power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
>even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
>it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.
>
>What am I missing??
>
>TIA
>
>-m
>
Fly-by-Night CC <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <%K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02>,
> Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!
>
> I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is
> fully lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the blade
> won't let the very front of the insert fully seat by an amount just
> shy of 3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf cutting). The rear
> of the insert is in the throat and resting on the rear lugs - you're
> only pivoting the front downward to fully seat on the front lugs. When
> you're done the blade is still below the top of the insert's surface
> so you aren't exposing yourself to a bare blade. Stand to the very
> side of the saw so that you can hold the back of the insert with one
> hand and lower the front with the other.
>
> What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
> unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
> registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
> mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the
> forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat
> opening.
>
> It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
> table-mounted router.
>
Other than having your hands far too close to the path of the blade? I
may be over cautious, but I've got all my fingers. I've made several zero
clearance inserts and in all cases I've manged to lower the blade enough
to allow screwing the insert to the table prior to cutting the slot.
Something I'll definitely be checking if I buy another saw.
LD
On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 04:50:20 GMT, Lobby Dosser
<[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>> I can't believe how much controversy this question generated, but I
>> really do appreciate all the different opinions. I have many smaller
>> blades at my disposal including both circular and dado cutters. I
>> don't know why I didn't think to mount a smaller blade first, but
>> that's the method I'm going to use. While the first suggestion may
>> work, I'm personally just not comfortable lowering such a small piece
>> of material onto a spinning blade -- not when I could just use a
>> smaller blade and the clamp down method to get the same result.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Good! Glad to see you can still type! :o)
In my case, I could loose 6 or 7 and not lose typing fingers or
speed...
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
:
: Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
: whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
: Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
:
You're nuts.
Why not throw a smaller blade in there to establish a pre-cut and then run
the 10"?
I know it's boring and safe but it sure beats cleaning blood off the walls
when you only have stumps where fingers used to be.
-Brian