I'm currently constructing a face frame for some built-in wardrobes. The
stock is 70mm x 20mm (about 2 3/4 " by 3/4") American Black Walnut and the
rails and stiles are to be joined using M&T joints.
I can find plenty of info in Joyce & Frid's books about the layout and
dimensions of the tenons, but can't find any advice on when to use through
tenons and when to use stub tenons. Most of the edges of the frames will
not be visible, but there are two instances when they will be, so I reckon
that stubs will be used there. But the others....
I'd been wondering why haunches always seemed to be cut, but eventually
found reference to the reason that they prevent the wood from twisting. So,
mitred haunches will be cut....
Any advice?
(I'm cutting all this by hand, incidentally. No tablesaws, bandsaws or
mortising machines here, unfortunately).
cheers
Richard
--
Richard Sampson
email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
To me, through tenons are a decorative feature. I wouldn't use them unless
they were meant to be a visual focus of the design. I use them on arts and
crafts tables and such, but I find them a lot harder to fit. The gaps as
the tenon emerges from the mortise have to be perfect, although there are
tricks to make it easier.
Cheers, Brian
"RichardS" <noaccess@invalid> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm currently constructing a face frame for some built-in wardrobes. The
> stock is 70mm x 20mm (about 2 3/4 " by 3/4") American Black Walnut and the
> rails and stiles are to be joined using M&T joints.
>
> I can find plenty of info in Joyce & Frid's books about the layout and
> dimensions of the tenons, but can't find any advice on when to use through
> tenons and when to use stub tenons. Most of the edges of the frames will
> not be visible, but there are two instances when they will be, so I reckon
> that stubs will be used there. But the others....
>
> I'd been wondering why haunches always seemed to be cut, but eventually
> found reference to the reason that they prevent the wood from twisting.
So,
> mitred haunches will be cut....
>
> Any advice?
>
> (I'm cutting all this by hand, incidentally. No tablesaws, bandsaws or
> mortising machines here, unfortunately).
>
> cheers
> Richard
>
> --
> Richard Sampson
>
> email me at
> richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
>
>
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Thu, Aug 28, 2003, 9:31am (EDT+5) From:
noaccess@invalid (RichardS)
I'm currently constructing a face frame for some built-in wardrobes. The
stock is 70mm x 20mm (about 2 3/4 " by 3/4") American Black Walnut and
the rails and stiles are to be joined using M&T joints.
I can find plenty of info in Joyce & Frid's books about the layout and
dimensions of the tenons, but can't find any advice on when to use
through tenons and when to use stub tenons. Most of the edges of the
frames will not be visible, but there are two instances when they will
be, so I reckon that stubs will be used there. But the others....
<snip>
******************************************************
Whatever pleases you!
Peace ~ Sir Edgar
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8
"RichardS" <noaccess@invalid> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm currently constructing a face frame for some built-in wardrobes. The
> stock is 70mm x 20mm (about 2 3/4 " by 3/4") American Black Walnut and the
> rails and stiles are to be joined using M&T joints.
>
> I can find plenty of info in Joyce & Frid's books about the layout and
> dimensions of the tenons, but can't find any advice on when to use through
> tenons and when to use stub tenons.
-----snip------
> Any advice?
IMHO through tenons are mostly a matter of personal taste, although, I
suppose, there is a slight strength advantage of a through versus, say, a
3/4 'through', tenon. I like the 'almost through' tenons and use epoxy
glue. With gap filling epoxy you can hide your small sizing errors inside
the wood. Again IMHO all those pegged, wedged and other configured tenons
are unnecessary for strengthening the joint if you use modern glues(i.e.
epoxy). If you tend toward the esthetics of a joint then the pegged, wedged
or other is another matter(and I have used them). I have even used fake
through, pegged tenons on some mirrors
http://home1.gte.net/llhote/mirrorpage/mirrorpage.htm The tenons on
these mirrors were about 3/4 through
Larry
--
Lawrence L'Hote
Columbia, MO
http://home1.gte.net/llhote/
http://home.mchsi.com/~llhote