I am building the dresser top from Wood Magazine. I modified the wood
types and went with some Beech I had lying around and used Baltic birch
for the panel and drawer bottom. What finish should I use? I would
like to finish it with something that will stand up to some abuse (due
to the type of project it is), but I don't want it to look like
plastic. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Highspeed wrote:
> I am building the dresser top from Wood Magazine. I modified the wood
> types and went with some Beech I had lying around and used Baltic birch
> for the panel and drawer bottom. What finish should I use? I would
> like to finish it with something that will stand up to some abuse (due
> to the type of project it is), but I don't want it to look like
> plastic. Any suggestions?
What type of abuse? Water?
When I want durable I use Danish oil with three coats of polyurathane.
But it does have a little plastic look..don't know any other way.
A compromise may be Waterlux Original.
>
> Thanks
Sorry, let me clarify, it is a dresser top VALET not a dresser top. It
will take abuse of keys, glasses, and other things on it top. You can
get a picture here
http://us.st8.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1861_20403889 I
hope this helps. The Mahogany portion in the photo are now beech and
vinyl panel is birch. Any other suggestions?
Thanks again,
Lars
NorthIdahoWWer wrote:
> I've not used Waterlox... what's the advantages? I've used Varathane
> waterbased floor finish on furniture with good success.
>
> >
> > Waterlox (note the spelling, please) is NO compromise, ever.
> >
> > --
> > Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
> > ------
> > www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development
Good post, MArk. While we're on the topic of recommendations, you might
consider Osmo Hardwax Oil --
http://www.environmentalhomecenter.com/shop.mv?CatCode=PRODUCT&ProdCode=OS_HARDWAX_OIL
Mark Proulx wrote:
> I'm sure you'll get a bunch of replies to this post, no two of which will
> recommend the same thing. Here is my two cents:
>
> Daly's ProFin is the best finishing product that God ever let Man invent.
> Period. It's easy to apply, dries very hard, stands up to years of abuse,
> and is easily "doctored' if scratched. The product comes in two finish
> types, gloss and satin. With practice, one can work with the gloss product
> to dull it down to any reflectivity desired, but I tend to use the satin
> product. The key to success with ProFin is to use lots of thin coats -
> don't get impatient and slather it on. Most woods require about four
> applications before the entire surface retains the finish (i.e., before all
> parts of the surface stop absorbing the finish). If you don't like how a
> particular coat came out, you just sand it down a bit and keep going.
>
> ProFin can be tinted to achieve a wide variety of hues. I usually use it
> straight out of the can.
>
> With time, woods stained with ProFin will acquire an amber cast (regardless
> of whether the surface is exposed to sunlight). Some people don't like
> this; I love it as it makes the wood look very warm.
>
> Features such as figuring in Maple or birdseye features just light up
> beautifully when finished with ProFin.
>
> Daly's makes another product - Benite - that I use as a precursor to ProFin.
>
> Daly's sells their products by mail. You can check out the entire Daly's
> line at:
>
> http://www.dalyspaint.com
>
> ...and no, I have no financial interest in Daly's. I'm just a 20-year
> satisfied customer, and fortunate enough to live near where they make the
> stuff.
>
> Mark Proulx
> Des Moines, WA
>
>
> "Highspeed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I am building the dresser top from Wood Magazine. I modified the wood
> > types and went with some Beech I had lying around and used Baltic birch
> > for the panel and drawer bottom. What finish should I use? I would
> > like to finish it with something that will stand up to some abuse (due
> > to the type of project it is), but I don't want it to look like
> > plastic. Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
On Sun, 9 Oct 2005 11:16:47 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"NorthIdahoWWer" <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
I wrote:
>> Waterlox (note the spelling, please) is NO compromise, ever.
>I've not used Waterlox... what's the advantages? I've used Varathane
>waterbased floor finish on furniture with good success.
No plastic look to it, excellent popping of the grain, easy to
rub on, easy to repair if damaged (though it's tough), doesn't flake
like poly, etc.
--
Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
------
www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development
Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> On 9 Oct 2005 03:16:56 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Never
> Enough Money" <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>
> >
> >Highspeed wrote:
> >> I am building the dresser top from Wood Magazine. I modified the wood
> >> types and went with some Beech I had lying around and used Baltic birch
> >> for the panel and drawer bottom. What finish should I use? I would
> >> like to finish it with something that will stand up to some abuse (due
> >> to the type of project it is), but I don't want it to look like
> >> plastic. Any suggestions?
> >
> >What type of abuse? Water?
> >
> >When I want durable I use Danish oil with three coats of polyurathane.
> >But it does have a little plastic look..don't know any other way.
> >
> >A compromise may be Waterlux Original.
>
> Waterlox (note the spelling, please) is NO compromise, ever.
>
<All> finishes are a compromise of some sort...
On 9 Oct 2005 03:16:56 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Never
Enough Money" <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>
>Highspeed wrote:
>> I am building the dresser top from Wood Magazine. I modified the wood
>> types and went with some Beech I had lying around and used Baltic birch
>> for the panel and drawer bottom. What finish should I use? I would
>> like to finish it with something that will stand up to some abuse (due
>> to the type of project it is), but I don't want it to look like
>> plastic. Any suggestions?
>
>What type of abuse? Water?
>
>When I want durable I use Danish oil with three coats of polyurathane.
>But it does have a little plastic look..don't know any other way.
>
>A compromise may be Waterlux Original.
Waterlox (note the spelling, please) is NO compromise, ever.
--
Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
------
www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development
Highspeed wrote:
> Sorry, let me clarify, it is a dresser top VALET not a dresser top.
> It will take abuse of keys, glasses, and other things on it top. You
> can get a picture here
Use oil. On the vulnerable parts at least.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I'm sure you'll get a bunch of replies to this post, no two of which will
recommend the same thing. Here is my two cents:
Daly's ProFin is the best finishing product that God ever let Man invent.
Period. It's easy to apply, dries very hard, stands up to years of abuse,
and is easily "doctored' if scratched. The product comes in two finish
types, gloss and satin. With practice, one can work with the gloss product
to dull it down to any reflectivity desired, but I tend to use the satin
product. The key to success with ProFin is to use lots of thin coats -
don't get impatient and slather it on. Most woods require about four
applications before the entire surface retains the finish (i.e., before all
parts of the surface stop absorbing the finish). If you don't like how a
particular coat came out, you just sand it down a bit and keep going.
ProFin can be tinted to achieve a wide variety of hues. I usually use it
straight out of the can.
With time, woods stained with ProFin will acquire an amber cast (regardless
of whether the surface is exposed to sunlight). Some people don't like
this; I love it as it makes the wood look very warm.
Features such as figuring in Maple or birdseye features just light up
beautifully when finished with ProFin.
Daly's makes another product - Benite - that I use as a precursor to ProFin.
Daly's sells their products by mail. You can check out the entire Daly's
line at:
http://www.dalyspaint.com
...and no, I have no financial interest in Daly's. I'm just a 20-year
satisfied customer, and fortunate enough to live near where they make the
stuff.
Mark Proulx
Des Moines, WA
"Highspeed" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building the dresser top from Wood Magazine. I modified the wood
> types and went with some Beech I had lying around and used Baltic birch
> for the panel and drawer bottom. What finish should I use? I would
> like to finish it with something that will stand up to some abuse (due
> to the type of project it is), but I don't want it to look like
> plastic. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
On 10 Oct 2005 03:15:49 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Never
Enough Money" <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>> Waterlox (note the spelling, please) is NO compromise, ever.
>>
>Waterlox is a compromise between the water resistent capabilities of
>polyurathane and the natural look of oil.
I disagree. The combination of tung oil and varnish appears to be just
as water resistant as poly.
>I like Waterlox, sorry you took offense.
No biggie. I'm just a bit defensive over my favorite finish,
especially when the comparison is with polyurinestain. :)
---
In Christianity, neither morality nor religion comes into contact
with reality at any point. --FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE
---------------------------------------------------------------
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