I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that has
cove and pin jointry. I Googled and found no help except an ASCII picture
of the joint.
_______________________________________
| (o
| (o
| (o
| (o
| (o
| (o
|_(o____________________________________
Does anyone have any information on a jig or tool to re-create this joint?
I dread having to do it all by hand.
Thanks,
Dave
Henry Bibb <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Davis Eichelberger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:28:49 GMT, "Henry Bibb" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that
has
> >> cove and pin jointry. I Googled and found no help except an ASCII
> picture
> >> of the joint.
> >> _______________________________________
> >> | (o
> >> | (o
> >> | (o
> >> | (o
> >> | (o
> >> | (o
> >> |_(o____________________________________
> >>
> >> Does anyone have any information on a jig or tool to re-create this
> joint?
> >> I dread having to do it all by hand.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Dave
> >>
> >Fine Woodworking had an article on how to do these - if I recall
correctly,
> >it was written by a female woodworker who graduated from the Bennet
Street
> >school ( that may help you find the article ). She used hand tools, and
a
> >pair of
> >plug cutters to cut it. Working from memory, now, this is the procedure:
> >
> >1) On the drawer front, use the plug cutter to cut the pins and
scalloped
> >edge.
> > This is just normal use of a plug cutter, except you're going into
> end
> >grain.
> >2) On the drawer side, she used a mated plug cutter that had been
reground
> > with flat tips to just outline where the scallops should be. Then
> use
> >a
> > gouge with matching sweep to cut them out.
> >3) A side effect of step 2 is a little raised circle of wood where the
pin
> >hole
> > has to be drilled. Line up on that, and have at it with a drill
> >press.
> >4) Tweak as necessary.
> >
> >Sounded kind of fun, but tedious. I'd hate to have to do a lot of them,
> but
> >one or two might not be so bad.
> >
> >Hope it helps,
> >Henry Bibb
>
> The FWW article is Cove and Pin Joint: Making a bull's eye dovetail, by
> David Gray. Fine Woodworking 1986, No. 59, pages 74-75.
>
> Woodworker's Supply has a router template/jig
> http://www.leichtung.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=886-459
>
> Davis Eichelberger
>
> Har! Guess my memory was wrong w.r.t. the author, eh?
> Thanks for the updated info. I hadn't found the issue yet...
>
> Henry Bibb
Same article appears in Traditional Woodworking Techniques, The Best of Fine
Woodworking.
Brian
>_______
>> >> | (o
>> >> | (o
>> >> | (o
>> >> | (o
>> >> | (o
>> >> | (o
Yes Woodworker's Supply does sell a system capable of making the joint. It is
engineered well, up to the point when they give you what they call a manual for
it.I think it was translated from teh Mandarin to the Cantonese to the Japanese
to the Formosan to the Persian to the Romani then finally, they got someone who
only speaks Basque to write it for them.
TeamCasa asks:
>I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that has
>cove and pin jointry. I Googled and found no help except an ASCII picture
>of the joint.
> _______________________________________
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> |_(o____________________________________
>
>Does anyone have any information on a jig or tool to re-create this joint?
>I dread having to do it all by hand.
Good luck. I know of no current machine that does this.
The link I had explaining the joint has expired, died, gone to old article
heaven or whatever.
It is a Knapp joint, if it is what I think. Made by machine, it is also called
a scallop and pin joint, a half moon and a scallop and dowel. Knapp patented
the machine in 1867, sold the rights in 1870 and was out of use by 1900.
Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that has
> cove and pin jointry. I Googled and found no help except an ASCII picture
> of the joint.
> _______________________________________
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> | (o
> |_(o____________________________________
>
> Does anyone have any information on a jig or tool to re-create this joint?
> I dread having to do it all by hand.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
Fine Woodworking had an article on how to do these - if I recall correctly,
it was written by a female woodworker who graduated from the Bennet Street
school ( that may help you find the article ). She used hand tools, and a
pair of
plug cutters to cut it. Working from memory, now, this is the procedure:
1) On the drawer front, use the plug cutter to cut the pins and scalloped
edge.
This is just normal use of a plug cutter, except you're going into end
grain.
2) On the drawer side, she used a mated plug cutter that had been reground
with flat tips to just outline where the scallops should be. Then use
a
gouge with matching sweep to cut them out.
3) A side effect of step 2 is a little raised circle of wood where the pin
hole
has to be drilled. Line up on that, and have at it with a drill
press.
4) Tweak as necessary.
Sounded kind of fun, but tedious. I'd hate to have to do a lot of them, but
one or two might not be so bad.
Hope it helps,
Henry Bibb
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:28:49 GMT, "Henry Bibb" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that =
has
>> cove and pin jointry. I Googled and found no help except an ASCII =
picture
>> of the joint.
>> _______________________________________
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> |_(o____________________________________
>>
>> Does anyone have any information on a jig or tool to re-create this =
joint?
>> I dread having to do it all by hand.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dave
>>
>Fine Woodworking had an article on how to do these - if I recall =
correctly,
>it was written by a female woodworker who graduated from the Bennet =
Street
>school ( that may help you find the article ). She used hand tools, =
and a
>pair of
>plug cutters to cut it. Working from memory, now, this is the =
procedure:
>
>1) On the drawer front, use the plug cutter to cut the pins and =
scalloped
>edge.
> This is just normal use of a plug cutter, except you're going into=
end
>grain.
>2) On the drawer side, she used a mated plug cutter that had been =
reground
> with flat tips to just outline where the scallops should be. Then=
use
>a
> gouge with matching sweep to cut them out.
>3) A side effect of step 2 is a little raised circle of wood where the =
pin
>hole
> has to be drilled. Line up on that, and have at it with a drill
>press.
>4) Tweak as necessary.
>
>Sounded kind of fun, but tedious. I'd hate to have to do a lot of them,=
but
>one or two might not be so bad.
>
>Hope it helps,
>Henry Bibb
The FWW article is Cove and Pin Joint: Making a bull=92s eye dovetail, by
David Gray. Fine Woodworking 1986, No. 59, pages 74-75.=20
Woodworker's Supply has a router template/jig=20
http://www.leichtung.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=3D886-459=20
Davis Eichelberger
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 09:54:43 -0800, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that has
>cove and pin jointry.
Popular in the USA around the 1880's - 1890's and made by the
Wisconsin Dovetailing Machine.
I don't understand this joint. Just about everything is wrong with it,
in terms of strength and grain layout. The coped edge adds negligible
strength to the joint, so all load is taken on those pins.
You can make the loop side of the joint by drilling and a coping saw.
Tedious handwork, but not too bad for a restoration job. It's unlikely
(unless you find one of the old machines, or make a shaper cutter)
that you'll tool up to make them in bulk.
The cope and pin side needs to be machine cut, but this isn't that
hard - unless you're trying to match an existing piece. You need a
plug cutter (fairly common) and a simple home-made jig to slide the
workpiece across with a peg and row of holes to act as a stop. You can
also do it with a Forstner bit and inserted dowel pegs. As broken
pegs are a common repair, then this is also a useful way to fix them.
I've only made these once, just as an example. I was unimpressed with
the results and I've never made them again.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
"Davis Eichelberger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:28:49 GMT, "Henry Bibb" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I need a little help. I have been given an old drawer to repair that has
>> cove and pin jointry. I Googled and found no help except an ASCII
picture
>> of the joint.
>> _______________________________________
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> | (o
>> |_(o____________________________________
>>
>> Does anyone have any information on a jig or tool to re-create this
joint?
>> I dread having to do it all by hand.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dave
>>
>Fine Woodworking had an article on how to do these - if I recall correctly,
>it was written by a female woodworker who graduated from the Bennet Street
>school ( that may help you find the article ). She used hand tools, and a
>pair of
>plug cutters to cut it. Working from memory, now, this is the procedure:
>
>1) On the drawer front, use the plug cutter to cut the pins and scalloped
>edge.
> This is just normal use of a plug cutter, except you're going into
end
>grain.
>2) On the drawer side, she used a mated plug cutter that had been reground
> with flat tips to just outline where the scallops should be. Then
use
>a
> gouge with matching sweep to cut them out.
>3) A side effect of step 2 is a little raised circle of wood where the pin
>hole
> has to be drilled. Line up on that, and have at it with a drill
>press.
>4) Tweak as necessary.
>
>Sounded kind of fun, but tedious. I'd hate to have to do a lot of them,
but
>one or two might not be so bad.
>
>Hope it helps,
>Henry Bibb
The FWW article is Cove and Pin Joint: Making a bull's eye dovetail, by
David Gray. Fine Woodworking 1986, No. 59, pages 74-75.
Woodworker's Supply has a router template/jig
http://www.leichtung.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=886-459
Davis Eichelberger
Har! Guess my memory was wrong w.r.t. the author, eh?
Thanks for the updated info. I hadn't found the issue yet...
Henry Bibb