Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
Delta...
I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
this seemed like the next step...
Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
I think a few of you were born using them (-;
Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...
So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
head and such, as called for in the manual...
I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
it....
I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!
TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 04:44:56 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
<mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote:
>mac davis wrote:
>> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
>> Delta...
>
>
>
>Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. The best thing I did for my Delta
>was get a plastic fitting that allowed me to channel the shavings into my dust
>collector. What used to be a huge PITA is no longer a big deal at all.
Thanks... this planer comes with a pretty trick setup for DC... has a sort of
shroud that fits 4" hose on one end and 2 1/2" on the other, with a reversible
cap to plug the one you're not using..
I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone refers to
"shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just clogs the
hose with shavings...
I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller, especially
with light cuts..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Nova wrote:
>> You are using the correct term for the U.S.. Most better 220 volt power
>> tools have magnetic switches. Because every 110 volt power tool that I have
>> seen has a mechanical switch I was wondering where you may have gotten
>> yours. But, since your tools are 220 volt, that answers that. ;~)
>> I have never seen a 110 volt variety.
>
> Grainger has a number of contactors with 110V coils. For an example see:
>
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5B093
At $185 a pop, i can see where these aren't a fast seller...
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
On Jun 23, 12:20 pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
>
TAKE IT BACK, GET THE DEWALT WITH THREE CUTTING BLADES
Delta...
>
> I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
> this seemed like the next step...
>
> Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
> "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
>
> I think a few of you were born using them (-;
>
> Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...
>
> So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
> carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
> head and such, as called for in the manual...
>
> I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
> it....
> I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!
>
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> On Jun 23, 12:20 pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
>>
>
> TAKE IT BACK, GET THE DEWALT WITH THREE CUTTING BLADES
>
Okay ... technically that IS 'advice'.
;-)
Bill
--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 000753-0, 07/01/2007
Tested on: 7/2/2007 12:07:16 AM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> "IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer off"
> and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it
> back in.
I have 4 major tools, a 10" circular saw with 6" planer, a band saw, an
8" planer thicknesser, a 10" disk sander, and a router/circular saw
table. All have magnetic switches, AAMOF I sometimes cut the main feed
instead of the individual switches.
When I was in the UK the power was never cut but now it goes out every
time it rains. The ease and safty of the magnetic switches makes the
cuts trivial if anoying. and you never have to worry (or remember) to
switch off in time.
so my recomendation is invest in one or more Mag Switches
--
>replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
>Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
>and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> Where did you buy your 110 volt magnetic switches?
Sorry as I lived in and will live in the 90% of the world that uses 240
volts and they came with the machines as standard I am not sure. FWIW
even the one that is over 30 years old.
I may be using the wrong term. The way they work is that If the power to
the tool is cut they switch off. Otherwise known as NVR Switches
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Light-Duty-NVR-Switch-21280
.htm
On the above3 it is named a magnetic switch.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Emergency-Stop-NVR-Switch-4
52985.htm
16A or about 3.5Kw
I would guess that you can get them for 110 volts
--
>replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
>Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
>and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml
In article <[email protected]>, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
I bought a Delta benchtop, and let it sit for a while before I used
it... Out of warranty by the time I hit a brad in a plank I was
planing, and nicked the blades.
The hold-down screws wouldn't budge. I had to take it to a repair shop
on my time to get them replaced.
My advice: Make sure you can change the blades before it's out of
warranty.
Stoutman <.@.> wrote:
> NEVER plane a board that is to short. It can kick throw the board back at
> you into your fingers that are pushing the board. DAMHIKT!
You probably all ready know this one, but for the original poster,
this might be new . . .
Typically, you don't want to put anything through the planer that's
less than about 12". If you do need to plane something that is less
than 12", an easy and safe way to do it is to glue on some side
runners that are 12" long. If you've got a piece that's say 6" long and
then add two 12" pieces on each of the edges, it might look something
like this bit of ASCII art:
+-+ +-+
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |+------+| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |+------+| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
+-+ +-+
After getting the piece to the desired thickness, just cut off the
side runners.
--
If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".
Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 9:52am (EDT-1) [email protected]
(Michael=A0Faurot)
<snip> If you do need to plane something that is less than 12", an easy
and safe way to do it is to glue on some side runners that are 12" long.
<snip>
I made a nifty planer sled that clamps the piece in, no gluing
needed. Works like a charm. The planer sled is 100% wood, held
together by glue, 100% wood cam clamps.
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
J T wrote:
| I made a nifty planer sled that clamps the piece in, no gluing
| needed. Works like a charm. The planer sled is 100% wood, held
| together by glue, 100% wood cam clamps.
Can/would you post photos? I've thought about doing this, but never
managed to come up with a design I thought would be worth building...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 6:29pm (EDT-1) [email protected] (Morris=A0Dovey)
doth plead thusly:
Can/would you post photos? I've thought about doing this, but never
managed to come up with a design I thought would be worth building...
Okey dokey, i'll see if i can remember to take the camera out
there. Won't guarantee the quality of the pictures - maybe I'd best try
to take two cameras. If I'm going to that much trouble I mig as well
try to get some decent shots of my router table too. I dun good on
that. And, seeing as my saw needs some adjusting from below, might's
well take it off the base now and get some pictures of the base, it's
kinda sorta art deco, or something. Might's well take pictures of some
my masters too, and the dog, corporate iggle. Anything else? LOL
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
J T wrote:
| Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 6:29pm (EDT-1) [email protected] (Morris Dovey)
| doth plead thusly:
| Can/would you post photos? I've thought about doing this, but never
| managed to come up with a design I thought would be worth
| building...
|
| Okey dokey, i'll see if i can remember to take the camera out
| there. Won't guarantee the quality of the pictures - maybe I'd best
| try to take two cameras. If I'm going to that much trouble I mig
| as well try to get some decent shots of my router table too. I dun
| good on that. And, seeing as my saw needs some adjusting from
| below, might's well take it off the base now and get some pictures
| of the base, it's kinda sorta art deco, or something. Might's well
| take pictures of some my masters too, and the dog, corporate iggle.
| Anything else? LOL
Well, the planer sled with cam clamps all by itself would of been
pretty good. I've built a couple of cam clamps, and found 'em useful.
If you've built some, I might learn something new from seeing 'em. I'm
interested in just about anything that can be made in the shop that
makes woodworking easier and/or more satisfying. There's a lot of
stuff that isn't sold in stores or is too expensive to buy, that can
be owner-built from scraps, glue, and some careful work.
The router table'd be a bonus. I bought mine 'cause I was in a rush to
get a job done. It's a good table, but I don't like it as well as some
I've seen that people have built for themselves. Best part of my
router table is the little mini-cyclone separator I built to use with.
Y'know, until I stumbled onto r.w, I'd never seen or heard of a table
saw sled - and the simple on I cobbled together has become one of the
most important tools in my shop. If you have the camera in your hand
and you think someone might benefit from seeing a picture - take it!
Not sure about iggle. I'll leave that up to you. :-)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Tue, Jun 26, 2007, 1:49am (EDT-1) [email protected] (Morris=A0Dovey) doth
sayeth:
<snip> Not sure about iggle. I'll leave that up to you.
OH yeah, you definitely need to see the iggle too. LOL
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
Tue, Jun 26, 2007, 1:49am (EDT-1) [email protected] (Morris=A0Dovey) doth
sayeth:
<snip> The router table'd be a bonus. I bought mine 'cause I was in a
rush to get a job done. It's a good table, but I don't like it as well
as some I've seen that people have built for themselves. Best part of my
router table is the little mini-cyclone separator I built to use with.
<snip>
I am very happy with the router table. I'll get a bulb for my
light so I should be able to get decent pictures. It's kinda basic, no
cabinet, et al, no fence - yet, because I don't need one, yet. But went
together quickly, except for glue drying tme, came out probably better
than I had expected, and works even better than I had hoped. My shop is
small, so no DC or anything, still figuring on where I can reasnably put
one, so the sawdust just shoots toward the back. Should be easy enough
to hook up something tho.
It's attached to a shelf. I think that if it was on a cabinet,
free-standing, I'd have a hinged, or lift-off, top on it. Because I
tend to do a numbe of pieces on it, then move elsewhere to continue work
on them. That would give me an extra work surface when the router
wasn't being used - I've got a lift-off that goes on the wood lathe
stand, and that works out great. Being bolted to the shelf is good tho,
it's low enough to sit using it, and with my back, and joints, that's a
blessing. If it was free-standing I think I'd still want it low enough
to sit to use.
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 23:54:56 -0400, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
>Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 6:29pm (EDT-1) [email protected] (Morris Dovey)
>doth plead thusly:
>Can/would you post photos? I've thought about doing this, but never
>managed to come up with a design I thought would be worth building...
>
> Okey dokey, i'll see if i can remember to take the camera out
>there. Won't guarantee the quality of the pictures - maybe I'd best try
>to take two cameras. If I'm going to that much trouble I mig as well
>try to get some decent shots of my router table too. I dun good on
>that. And, seeing as my saw needs some adjusting from below, might's
>well take it off the base now and get some pictures of the base, it's
>kinda sorta art deco, or something. Might's well take pictures of some
>my masters too, and the dog, corporate iggle. Anything else? LOL
>
>
>
>JOAT
>If a man does his best, what else is there?
>- General George S. Patton
Damn... hate to put ya to work, bro, but I appreciate..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:02:40 -0400, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
>Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 9:52am (EDT-1) [email protected]
>(Michael Faurot)
><snip> If you do need to plane something that is less than 12", an easy
>and safe way to do it is to glue on some side runners that are 12" long.
><snip>
>
> I made a nifty planer sled that clamps the piece in, no gluing
>needed. Works like a charm. The planer sled is 100% wood, held
>together by glue, 100% wood cam clamps.
>
>
great ad, bro... I want one!
It sounds like something I'm going to need, since one of the reasons for the
planer is getting into laminated or segmented bowls...
Got any pictures or such, so I can make one?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
Dust collector
Small bites each pass
Be sure there are no nails in the board. Not that I'd ever do that, but
I've heard of it happening to others :)
> I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw
> recently,
> this seemed like the next step...
<snip>
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
Never plane to much off of one face at a time. The board will begin to bow
in the direction of the face being planed. DAMHIKT!
NEVER plane a board that is to short. It can kick throw the board back at
you into your fingers that are pushing the board. DAMHIKT!
Don't feed your fingers into the planer knives!
Learn how to sharpen your own knives. See my web page below:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/jigsfixtures.htm
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 18:49:18 -0500, "The Davenport's"
> <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone
>>caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next
>>purchase,
>>I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.
>>
>>Mike
>>
> I considered one, Mike, but don't have the budget for one yet... or the
> room,
> until I sell or give away the RAS and bench TS...
>
> I've made an adjustable "jointing fence" for the TS from ideas ripped off
> from 2
> or 3 wREC'ers web sites...(thanks Morris)
> I think that will get me by as long as I'm using lumber yard stock..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailin
I wouldn't be too quick to sell the RAS, Mac. I find it to be one of my
most used saws for cut offs. You can lose the bench top TS, for sure.
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 04:44:56 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
> <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>mac davis wrote:
>>> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the
>>> pictures of a
>>> Delta...
>>
>>
>>
>>Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. The best thing I did for my
>>Delta
>>was get a plastic fitting that allowed me to channel the shavings into my
>>dust
>>collector. What used to be a huge PITA is no longer a big deal at all.
>
> Thanks... this planer comes with a pretty trick setup for DC... has a sort
> of
> shroud that fits 4" hose on one end and 2 1/2" on the other, with a
> reversible
> cap to plug the one you're not using..
>
> I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone
> refers to
> "shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just
> clogs the
> hose with shavings...
> I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller,
> especially
> with light cuts..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
I have only had 'shaving' issues with pine which produce wider and longer
shavings. Hardwoods produce small cuttings and are not an issue.
mac davis wrote:
> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
> Delta...
Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. The best thing I did for my Delta
was get a plastic fitting that allowed me to channel the shavings into my dust
collector. What used to be a huge PITA is no longer a big deal at all.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 4:44am mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
(Mortimer=A0Schnerd,=A0RN) doth sayeth:
Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. <snip>
That's a good thing. Cushions the floor. At one point after I
first got my wood lathe my floor got almost knee deep in shavings.
Didn't actually make anything doing that, just practice, but loads of
fun.
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 06:58:51 -0400, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
>Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 4:44am mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
>(Mortimer Schnerd, RN) doth sayeth:
>Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. <snip>
>
> That's a good thing. Cushions the floor. At one point after I
>first got my wood lathe my floor got almost knee deep in shavings.
>Didn't actually make anything doing that, just practice, but loads of
>fun.
>
>
lol.. one of my turning mentors lives in NY and says that the shaving on the
floor keep his feet warm...
Must be a bitch when you drop something in the shavings, though... especially if
it's not something that you can find with a magnet..
In the states, 4 or 5 inches of shavings around the lathe was pretty normal, and
when I was turning green stuff I had shaving on the bench, tools, ceiling,
etc...
Different in the new house because the shop is inside the house and I try to
keep stuff from getting tracked into the other rooms..
I wanted to spray endust on a couple of the cats that hang out in the shop, but
my wife sort of lost her sense of humor when I suggested that...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 8:23am (EDT-3) [email protected]
(mac=A0davis) doth sayeth:
<snip> Must be a bitch when you drop something in the shavings,
though... especially if it's not something that you can find with a
magnet..<snip>
Tell me about it. Which is why I made a "sifter". I dump a
handful of sawdut/shavings in, sift, dump the siftings into a bucket,
repeat, until I find whatever. As long as I've got a fair idea of where
it dropped it doesn't take too long.
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:11:55 -0400, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
>Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 8:23am (EDT-3) [email protected]
>(mac davis) doth sayeth:
> <snip> Must be a bitch when you drop something in the shavings,
>though... especially if it's not something that you can find with a
>magnet..<snip>
>
> Tell me about it. Which is why I made a "sifter". I dump a
>handful of sawdut/shavings in, sift, dump the siftings into a bucket,
>repeat, until I find whatever. As long as I've got a fair idea of where
>it dropped it doesn't take too long.
>
>
yeah... I've done about the same thing.. had to find a brass pen bushing...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Sat, Jun 23, 2007, 9:20am (EDT-3) [email protected]
(mac=A0davis) doth sayeth
<snip> Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and
tips, warnings, "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
<snip>
Questions like this still continue to amaze me. I don't know if
it's because of he way I was brought up, my Army time, or different
generations. When I got my planer I already knew to keep my fingers out
of it, and to not plane nails. So i just started using it.
OK, here's your adice. Read the manual. Keep your fingers out of
it. Don''t plane anything wth metal in it. After that, you're on your
own.
JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 12:50:30 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>>
>>
>> mac
>>
>> Please remove splinters before emailing
>
>"IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer off"
>and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it
>back in. If the blades comes to a stop against the wood they may not spin
>when the motor comes back on and the blade drive belt will burn up.
>DAKMHIKT
>
Damn good point, Leon... I hadn't even thought that it would go back on with the
power...
Last night, the power went off 3 times within a few hours... usually for maybe a
min. or so, but enough to really think about your tip!
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
>>1) Cut stock a few inches long...there is no such thing as totally snip
>>free planing.
>
> hmm... good idea... the manual says to cut the "depressed ends" off....
> sort of
> makes you change all your plans & drawings if you have to do that!
>>
Only a little, as you shouldn't be using the planer much except at the very
begining of a project. An we're only talking about 1 1/2 to 2". What I'll do
when I've got a large project strarting up is joint the plane all my stock
and I"ll have 2 extra pieces of stock 18-24 inches long and those are the
first and last pieces thru the planer before I change the cut depth. Mark
them or use a different material so that you know which is what.
One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone
caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next purchase,
I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.
Mike
mac davis wrote:
> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
> Delta...
>
> I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
> this seemed like the next step...
>
> Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
> "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
>
> I think a few of you were born using them (-;
>
> Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...
>
> So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
> carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
> head and such, as called for in the manual...
>
> I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
> it....
> I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!
>
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
What? The first thing to do is turn it on.
- S
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 21:07:02 -0500, Patriarch <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Without a DC, at least use a shop vac, preferably with a drop box, to pull
>out the shavings. And there will be a LOT of shavings on most wood. We
>did a bunch of redwood for one of my son's projects last month, and got
>perhaps 5 garbage bags of shavings, which now mulch under the roses in the
>back yard.
It sounds like I need to run a DC hose outside... sort of an interesting
logistical problem in the world of durawall houses and scorpions.. *g*
>It's a good machine, but it will have a problem if it runs into a
>temporarily stupid operator.
The exact reason for this thread... IMO, it's better to ask a stupid question
then make a mistake because you were too stupid to ask...
>Then you have to wait three days for the $3 part to get FedExed in from Ridgid Central. Could be more of a problem if
>you've run away to rural Mexico... ;-)
Yep.. unless they send it by mail, which ridgid won't, I have stuff like that
sent to someone in the states and then brought or mailed down...
>I've used the similar Delta a lot, and certainly wouldn't trade my Ridgid
>for one. Money well spent.
It seems like a real nice machine....
I was trying to get the Dewalt with 3 blades on a lot of recommendations here,
but the ridgid was rated really high, less bucks and it's a lot easier to get HD
stuff here than Delta or Dewalt... (it's a bitch getting jet parts for the
lathes)
>
>Enjoy yours, Mac!
>
Thanks.. I feel a lot better already and trying to figure out which project for
the wife is next.. lol
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_hSgi.9763$9b5.722@trndny05...
> Leon wrote:
>
>> You are using the correct term for the U.S.. Most better 220 volt power
>> tools have magnetic switches. Because every 110 volt power tool that I
>> have seen has a mechanical switch I was wondering where you may have
>> gotten yours. But, since your tools are 220 volt, that answers that.
>> ;~)
>> I have never seen a 110 volt variety.
>>
>>
>> Thanks anyway.
>
> Grainger has a number of contactors with 110V coils. For an example see:
>
Great, thanks.
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
"IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer off"
and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it
back in. If the blades comes to a stop against the wood they may not spin
when the motor comes back on and the blade drive belt will burn up.
DAKMHIKT
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_hSgi.9763$9b5.722@trndny05...
> Leon wrote:
>
>> You are using the correct term for the U.S.. Most better 220 volt power
>> tools have magnetic switches. Because every 110 volt power tool that I
>> have seen has a mechanical switch I was wondering where you may have
>> gotten yours. But, since your tools are 220 volt, that answers that.
>> ;~)
>> I have never seen a 110 volt variety.
>>
>>
>> Thanks anyway.
>
> Grainger has a number of contactors with 110V coils. For an example see:
>
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5B093
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Grizzly also has some
http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=110v+magnetic+switch
"Jerome Meekings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1i0g2td.tprp6wqd6j8kN%[email protected]...
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Where did you buy your 110 volt magnetic switches?
>
> Sorry as I lived in and will live in the 90% of the world that uses 240
> volts and they came with the machines as standard I am not sure. FWIW
> even the one that is over 30 years old.
>
> I may be using the wrong term. The way they work is that If the power to
> the tool is cut they switch off. Otherwise known as NVR Switches
You are using the correct term for the U.S.. Most better 220 volt power
tools have magnetic switches. Because every 110 volt power tool that I have
seen has a mechanical switch I was wondering where you may have gotten
yours. But, since your tools are 220 volt, that answers that. ;~)
I have never seen a 110 volt variety.
Thanks anyway.
Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside
>>planer?), the messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze
>>blowing..
> Without DC, the rollers on some planers can press the shavings into
> the wood, causing dents. Also, planers create very large amounts of
> shavings, so you may find a snow shovel useful...
>
Without a DC, at least use a shop vac, preferably with a drop box, to pull
out the shavings. And there will be a LOT of shavings on most wood. We
did a bunch of redwood for one of my son's projects last month, and got
perhaps 5 garbage bags of shavings, which now mulch under the roses in the
back yard.
These are supposed to be replaceable, two-sided blades, and they are. But
I've taken to honing them with 600 grit wet/dry, wrapped around a block of
maple, and reinstalling them. Works pretty well. I've been cycling 3 sets
of blades on mine for 6 or 7 years, working mostly in oak and maple.
It's a good machine, but it will have a problem if it runs into a
temporarily stupid operator. Then you have to wait three days for the $3
part to get FedExed in from Ridgid Central. Could be more of a problem if
you've run away to rural Mexico... ;-)
I've used the similar Delta a lot, and certainly wouldn't trade my Ridgid
for one. Money well spent.
Enjoy yours, Mac!
Patriarch
Leon wrote:
> You are using the correct term for the U.S.. Most better 220 volt power
> tools have magnetic switches. Because every 110 volt power tool that I have
> seen has a mechanical switch I was wondering where you may have gotten
> yours. But, since your tools are 220 volt, that answers that. ;~)
> I have never seen a 110 volt variety.
>
>
> Thanks anyway.
Grainger has a number of contactors with 110V coils. For an example see:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5B093
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 12:17:53 -0400, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone
>> refers to
>> "shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just
>> clogs the
>> hose with shavings...
>> I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller,
>> especially
>> with light cuts..
>
>I made one pass on my planer and the next day I bought a DC. May not be a
>problem where you are, but it was a potential mess here.
>
hmm... part of my plan to provide a source of mulch to the desert??
I'll have to work out a way to get a dc hose or pipe through the wall of the
shop..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Jerome Meekings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1i0fi98.1mjfkvy3eqhx4N%[email protected]...
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> "IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer
>> off"
>> and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it
>> back in.
>
> I have 4 major tools, a 10" circular saw with 6" planer, a band saw, an
> 8" planer thicknesser, a 10" disk sander, and a router/circular saw
> table. All have magnetic switches, AAMOF I sometimes cut the main feed
> instead of the individual switches.
>
> When I was in the UK the power was never cut but now it goes out every
> time it rains. The ease and safty of the magnetic switches makes the
> cuts trivial if anoying. and you never have to worry (or remember) to
> switch off in time.
>
> so my recomendation is invest in one or more Mag Switches
>
Where did you buy your 110 volt magnetic switches?
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:53:42 -0400, "C & E" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I have only had 'shaving' issues with pine which produce wider and longer
>shavings. Hardwoods produce small cuttings and are not an issue.
Cool... thanks..
I'll be working mostly with pine here, so I'll keep that in mind...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:46:16 -0400, "C & E" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I wouldn't be too quick to sell the RAS, Mac. I find it to be one of my
>most used saws for cut offs. You can lose the bench top TS, for sure.
>
It just takes up too much room and needs to much attention...
I got it a few years ago at a garage sale and fixed it up....
It was probably worth more than the $50 I paid for it, but not much, and the
move down here and months of no use (while waiting for electricity) and getting
banged around haven't helped it...
Looking at redoing the table, cleaning and aligning everything and all the other
wish & prayer stuff involved with a RAS, I'd rather have the vacant space in the
carport...
Funny, most of us say we need a bigger shop... I never thought that a 40' x 15'
carport might be a bit small...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 11:52:28 -0500, "The Davenport's" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>1) Cut stock a few inches long...there is no such thing as totally snip free planing.
hmm... good idea... the manual says to cut the "depressed ends" off.... sort of
makes you change all your plans & drawings if you have to do that!
>
>2) If possible, run boards end to end thru the machine..this will go a long
>way to giving you snipe free planing.
AHA! It says "with the grain" in several places... I sort of figured end to end,
but nice to be sure...
>
>3) Watch the grain direction. If you get little chips that pull out of the
>face as you plane, flip the board end for end and run it thru that
>way...sometimes it just moves the chipping to the other direction, but often
>it'll work. If not, take lighter cuts and lightly mist with plain water
>before each cut. read again LIGHTLY MIST...you do NOT want a wet board, just
>a slightly damp surface.
Cool... might also fit in with "with the grain"..
>
>4) When starting the board, slightly lift the out board end until the
>starting end is under the outfeed roller...then again, lightly lift the end
>just as it's coming thru. This can help reduce the amount of snipe on the
>start and end of the board.
I can see that I'll be trying that with some scraps... and from the SIDE... *g*
>
thanks, Mike..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside planer?), the
>messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze blowing..
Without DC, the rollers on some planers can press the shavings into
the wood, causing dents. Also, planers create very large amounts of
shavings, so you may find a snow shovel useful...
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 12:37:25 -0500, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]>
wrote:
>You've gotten good advice, but I'll ditto the short board ban. Tried
>to "cheat" a short board through once. Bruise hand healed fairly well
>in about ten days.
>
>Frank
The manual says min. 14"...
My brother is supposed to be posting a picture for me of a sled that he uses???
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures
of a
> Delta...
<<snip>>
> Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips,
> warnings,
> "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
>
> I think a few of you were born using them (-;
<<snip>>
Now wouldn't THAT be a sight???
....10 pounds, 24" long and he's already building his own crib and changing
table. Wonder if he'll use poly of BLO for the finish...
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
>
> mac
No clue as to if the Ridgid has any "special" tips, but for planers in
general...
1) Cut stock a few inches long...there is no such thing as totally snip
free planing.
2) If possible, run boards end to end thru the machine..this will go a long
way to giving you snipe free planing.
3) Watch the grain direction. If you get little chips that pull out of the
face as you plane, flip the board end for end and run it thru that
way...sometimes it just moves the chipping to the other direction, but often
it'll work. If not, take lighter cuts and lightly mist with plain water
before each cut. read again LIGHTLY MIST...you do NOT want a wet board, just
a slightly damp surface.
4) When starting the board, slightly lift the out board end until the
starting end is under the outfeed roller...then again, lightly lift the end
just as it's coming thru. This can help reduce the amount of snipe on the
start and end of the board.
5) NEVER try to plane a short board. I never try to plane a board shorter
the half again what the book says is the minimum....my delta book says 12"
so I never go under 18" long. I go to the drum sander under that. Same
thing with the thickness...I never go under 3/8". Am I being a chicken about
it? Yes, and I don't care...I've had my share on cuts and bruises over the
years from things that were avoidable, I see no reason to open myself up to
more now that I've finally gotten a little smarter.
Are there other things to know??? Oh god, yes...and I'm sure that there are
others out there that'll helpp fill in the blanks.
Luck
Mike
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 09:20:06 -0700, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
>Delta...
>
>I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
>this seemed like the next step...
>
>Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
>"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
>
>I think a few of you were born using them (-;
>
>Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...
>
>So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
>carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
>head and such, as called for in the manual...
>
>I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
>it....
>I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!
>
>TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
>
>mac
>
>Please remove splinters before emailing
You've gotten good advice, but I'll ditto the short board ban. Tried
to "cheat" a short board through once. Bruise hand healed fairly well
in about ten days.
Frank
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures
> of a
> Delta...
>
> I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw
> recently,
> this seemed like the next step...
>
> Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips,
> warnings,
> "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
>
> I think a few of you were born using them (-;
>
> Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...
>
> So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in
> the
> carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the
> cutter
> head and such, as called for in the manual...
>
> I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the
> requires
> it....
> I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book
> shelves!
>
> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emaili
I always wear safety glasses (habit while in the shop) and hearing
protection.
I have prescription safety glasses, with side shields.
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 16:43:44 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..
>>
>
>Dust collector
>Small bites each pass
>Be sure there are no nails in the board. Not that I'd ever do that, but
>I've heard of it happening to others :)
>
Thanks, Ed...
No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside planer?), the
messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze blowing..
small bites meaning cutting depth, right?
(note to self: check battery in stud finder)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:44:32 GMT, Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote:
>mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside planer?), the
>>messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze blowing..
>Without DC, the rollers on some planers can press the shavings into
>the wood, causing dents. Also, planers create very large amounts of
>shavings, so you may find a snow shovel useful...
Thanks.. sort of why I asked, because the planer doesn't have much of a manual,
but suggested something like that to keep rollers clean..
Seemed like they were saying that it helps the rollers either during or after
use, couldn't really be sure..
Closest Home Depot is over 3 hours away and involves a border crossing that
isn't tool friendly, so I want try to prevent as many 'operator errors" as I
can...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 14:26:37 -0500, "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>mac davis wrote:
>
>| Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and
>| tips, warnings, "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use
>| them.
>
>Bolt the planer to the stand. Lock the casters. Turn the power on...
well, 2 outta 3 aren't bad... lol
I guess I should at least make sure it runs..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 18:49:18 -0500, "The Davenport's" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone
>caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next purchase,
>I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.
>
>Mike
>
I considered one, Mike, but don't have the budget for one yet... or the room,
until I sell or give away the RAS and bench TS...
I've made an adjustable "jointing fence" for the TS from ideas ripped off from 2
or 3 wREC'ers web sites...(thanks Morris)
I think that will get me by as long as I'm using lumber yard stock..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
mac davis wrote:
> It sounds like I need to run a DC hose outside... sort of an
interesting
> logistical problem in the world of durawall houses and scorpions.. *g*
I operate my planer outside, no DC necessary; however, a broom,
shovel, and a couple of plastic garbage cans are helpful, no, make
that mandatory.
Lew
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone
> refers to
> "shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just
> clogs the
> hose with shavings...
> I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller,
> especially
> with light cuts..
I made one pass on my planer and the next day I bought a DC. May not be a
problem where you are, but it was a potential mess here.