"Ben Siders" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
> say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface. What type of wood is best
> for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
two pices 3/4 plywood with a top later of 1/4 temperhard board works
great for bench top
In article <[email protected]>, Ben Siders
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 19:35:00 +0000, Jim Mc Namara wrote:
>
> >
> > "Larry Jaques" once again crawled off the crapper and wrote in message:
> >
> >> Don't listen to Jums. Use "conservative" maple.
> >
> > Oh hell "C-less" why not just call it Limbaugh maple? LOL!
> >
> > Jummy
>
> I suppose in Missouri I ought to be able to find some Gephardt yellow
> pine, but I'm concerned that it won't stay true once I square it. And that
> Limbaugh maple is bit too unyielding and difficult to work with.
You could try the Nugent maple, aka "rock" maple. It's guaranteed to
be entertaining!
Kevin
[email protected] wrote:
>>that Limbaugh maple is bit too unyielding and difficult to work with.
>
> Also an excellent response.
The sad thing is how many times I had to read that quote before I finally
got it. Duh.
Probably because I'm trying really hard to stay out of politics lately.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17186 Approximate word count: 515580
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Silvan responds:
>Probably because I'm trying really hard to stay out of politics lately.
>
Good luck. I'm trying real hard to stay out of CALIFORNIA politics lately, but
it's proving impossible.
I'm beginning to believe the old saw, though, about someone tilting the country
so all the whackos could roll down to CA.
Charlie Self
"The future will be better tomorrow."
Dan Quayle
Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
: Silvan responds:
:>Probably because I'm trying really hard to stay out of politics lately.
:>
: Good luck. I'm trying real hard to stay out of CALIFORNIA politics lately, but
: it's proving impossible.
: I'm beginning to believe the old saw, though, about someone tilting the country
: so all the whackos could roll down to CA.
: Charlie Self
Charlie,
Well you at least had an obligatory RWW reference: "old saw" ;^)
--- Gregg
My woodworking projects:
Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
http://home.attbi.com/~saville/backstaffhome.html
Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
http://home.attbi.com/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm
Steambending FAQ with photos:
http://home.attbi.com/~saville/Steambend.htm
"Improvise, adapt, overcome."
[email protected]
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
Phone: (617) 496-1558
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Charlie Self) writes:
>Silvan responds:
>
>>Probably because I'm trying really hard to stay out of politics lately.
>>
>
>Good luck. I'm trying real hard to stay out of CALIFORNIA politics lately, but
>it's proving impossible.
So you're running for governor, too?
Ben Siders wrote:
> I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
> say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface. What type of wood is best
> for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
Many will suggest using a very hard wood, like hard maple.
For a first-time bench, I recommend considering alternatives.
I, personally, prefer a bench surface that is cheap, easily replaceable,
and _softer_ than what I will be working on. If something dents, I
would rather it be a replaceable workbench top than the piece I am
working on. My primary workbech is a set of old kitchen cabinets:
http://christophermerrill.net/ww/shop/tour1.html
It has 2 pieces of 3/4" particleboard bolted to the top. I never worry
about cutting, drilling or staining the top - because I don't care.
After a few years, I'll pull it off and replace it. It has already
lasted longer than I expected :)
just my penny...
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
"moderate" maple . . .
Jums
"Ben Siders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
> say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface. What type of wood is best
> for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
Easily replaceable 1/4" masonite (hardboard). Cheap and can be replaced
if it becomes damaged. 2 layers of 3/4 MDF makes a nice substrate for
the masonite. hardwood edges 1/4" higher than MDF captures the masonite
and provides a level surface. overhang the workbench top from the
supporting structure by at least 3 inches so you can place clamps over
the edges.
dave
Ben Siders wrote:
> I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
> say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface. What type of wood is best
> for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
"Ben Siders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
> say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface. What type of wood is best
> for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
------------
I built my first workbench a little while ago. I looked at loads of websites and
got lots of good ideas. I also lurk around this ng and pick up oodles of useful
tips. In the end I decided to opt for MDF as I was concerned about getting the
bench top flat. I had read so much that I concluded that I should put off the
dream bench for a later time when my skill has improved. Anyway, the MDF is fine
but I agree with the posters that have pointed out the virtues of allowing for a
hardboard top. I didn't but can when or if I naff the MDF top.
From 2 sheets of 8'x4'x18mm MDF I got a top that is 72mm thick, as heavy as hell
and well near bomb proof. There was enough left over for a tool shelf underneath
and still more left over for whatever.
As cost is a consideration I think you will find this a useful route. For
interest I had the sheets cut as follows:
Both sheets cut to 72" length. Rest placed aside.
Sheet 1 cut into 2 off 72"x16". Rest placed aside.
Sheet 2 cut into 1 off 72"x16" and 1 off 72"x24". Rest placed aside.
To make the top I laminated the MDF using the 72x24 as the bottom followed by
three layers of 72x16 flush up on one edge. I rounded over the MDF stack next to
the lower 'shelf' and then wrapped the whole thing with 2x4. Which gave me a
nice toolwell at the back and a solid, as in very solid, worktop. The toolwell
was simply fitted with suitably angled timber at either end to give me a means
of sweeping out all the crap that ends up in there.
But it weighs a lot and needs a fairly sturdy base unit. I went, according to
some, a little OTT. The legs are 4x4, the long rails are 6x2 and the cross rails
and top rails are 4x2. But when the whole lot came together it was all in propor
tion, so I feel vindicated. As a bench it is ideal, it will not move or shake or
vibrate or anything. It just sits there like immovable object, which it pretty
near is. Also, it is just the right height for me (too high for most - I'm 6'4")
On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:00:18 GMT, "Ben Siders" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
>say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface.
I bet they say "tempered hardboard", not hardwood.
Hardboard is Masonite - except when it isn't. Lots of grades, lots of
difference. You need _oil_tempered_hardboard_, best you can find.
Then make your bench from a double layer of 3/4" plywood, covered in
either oil tempered hardboard or 4mm MDF. For neatness, consider
screwing some hardwood edge banding around the edge.
A simple frame underneath (it should have rails at top and bottom for
rigidity, but glue & screw jointed planed 2x4's are perfectly
adequate.
Finish the top with a coat of wax. Especially if it's MDF.
In a few years time, the top will be a little ripped up. Keep the
plywood and replace the top skin.
>What type of wood is best
>for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
There's a lot of argument for the best benchtop. Plywood with
hardboard over is quite cheap, but best of all it doesn't need much
machinery to make it.
For solid hardwood benches, beech, maple and oak are all popular,
depending on what's available locally. You should make them from
either huge slabs, 4" or 6" thick, or else narrow strips, ripped down
and then re-jointed together. Mine is 2" thick oak, made from 3" and
4" wide strips.
A hard benchtop lasts longer. A soft benchtop won't damage work on it.
Personally I use a hard top and either a separate assembly table, or
some blanket on top.
On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 19:35:00 +0000, Jim Mc Namara wrote:
>
> "Larry Jaques" once again crawled off the crapper and wrote in message:
>
>> Don't listen to Jums. Use "conservative" maple.
>
> Oh hell "C-less" why not just call it Limbaugh maple? LOL!
>
> Jummy
I suppose in Missouri I ought to be able to find some Gephardt yellow
pine, but I'm concerned that it won't stay true once I square it. And that
Limbaugh maple is bit too unyielding and difficult to work with.
On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 23:21:05 -0400, Silvan wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>that Limbaugh maple is bit too unyielding and difficult to work with.
>>
>> Also an excellent response.
>
> The sad thing is how many times I had to read that quote before I finally
> got it. Duh.
>
> Probably because I'm trying really hard to stay out of politics lately.
Same here. As much as I enjoy a good political discussion, it's difficult
to find people whose political ideology can't be summed up as a knee-jerk
response to whatever they read on CNN or hear on the Rush Limbaugh show.
My list of kill words in my NG spam filter is getting long, but I found that by
filtering out islam, muslim, christian, jew, hitler, president, minister,
clinton, and bush, I get about 95% of it.
On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:00:18 GMT, "Ben Siders" <[email protected]>
pixelated:
>I'm building my first workbench, it's a simple jobbie, but the plans just
>say, "tempered hardwood" for the bench surface. What type of wood is best
>for this purpose? Cost is a moderate factor.
Don't listen to Jums. Use "conservative" maple.
P.S: They prolly said "tempered hardboard" which is Masonite.
-
Better Living Through Denial
------------
http://diversify.com Dynamic Websites, PHP Apps, MySQL databases
"Ben Siders" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I suppose in Missouri I ought to be able to find some Gephardt yellow
>pine, but I'm concerned that it won't stay true once I square it. And that
>Limbaugh maple is bit too unyielding and difficult to work with.
Also an excellent response.
Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Gee Tee EYE EYE dot COM
Lycos address is a spam trap.
How about some of that Ted Kennedy Driftwood? (think about it . . . it'll
come to ya L.J.)
Jums
"Kevin Craig" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:120820031822551138%[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Ben Siders
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I suppose in Missouri I ought to be able to find some Gephardt yellow
> > pine, but I'm concerned that it won't stay true once I square it. And
that
> > Limbaugh maple is bit too unyielding and difficult to work with.
>
> You could try the Nugent maple, aka "rock" maple. It's guaranteed to
> be entertaining!
>
> Kevin