On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
gus wrote:
> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>...
> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
...
> Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
Possibly, if you either have only one blade or only use one blade, the
set isn't uniform.
Otherwise, other response so far covers the basics. Is it really
difficult to keep a piece against the fence or do you typically simply
try to run a piece through with only a push from the rear? It takes at
least _some_ lateral force to keep a piece in contact w/ the fence...
gus wrote:
> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
> 1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
> specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
> point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
test discs are (mostly) unnecessary gimmick. here's what looks like a
good writeup:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm
>
> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
too much toe out- the space between the blade and the fence is greater
at the back than the front. a bow in your fence could also do it- have
you checked the fence for straightness?
>
> 3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
> as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
unlikely. runout will give you a wider kerf and make the machine shake
if it's real bad.
>
> Ideas/input appreciated.
one very likely culprit is operator technique....
>Thx, Gus
> > gus wrote:
> >> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> >> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> >> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
Whenever I make a cut on my table saw, I move the fence toward
the blade with the gap between the two, is the cut I'm going to make.
Then I measure from the fence to one of the table saw's slots at the
saw blade. Then I make sure the front & rear of the fence is
the same distance to the slot as the middle I just measured.
That way, the fence will be paralell to the saw blade.
Is this clear ?
> gus wrote:
>> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
>> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
>> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>>...
>> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
>> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
> ...
>> Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
>
>"dpb"
> Possibly, if you either have only one blade or only use one blade, the
> set isn't uniform.
>
I agree - assuming the saw is setup properly, blade to slot is parallel -
fence to slot/blade is also parallel.
I've seen a bad blade set do that same thing, similar to bandsaw blade
drift. Replace the blade or have it checked and sharpened.
Dave
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gus wrote:
> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
> 1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
> specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
> point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
They exist, but are kind of pricy. Rockler sells one under the name
"Master Plate". A saw blade works fine though...just rotate the blade
so that you measure from the same tooth front and back.
> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
Back of the fence further away from the blade. Of course, it could also
be bad technique.
> 3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
> as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
No. That would "wobble" the blade slightly, giving a wider kerf and
poorer edge quality. You can check for this type of runout with a dial
indicator and magnetic base.
Chris
"gus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
> 1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
> specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
> point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
>
> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
>
> 3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
> as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
>
> Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
>
Are you using a featherboard to apply lateral pressure?
Mon, Oct 16, 2006, 7:33am (EDT-3) [email protected] (gus) doth
mumbleth:
On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence during
the cut. <snip>
That sounds to me more like non-use of pushsticks, or featherboard,
rather than an alignment problem.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
gus wrote:
> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
> 1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
> specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
> point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
>
> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
>
> 3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
> as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
>
> Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
>
A feather board would help to keep workpiece against the fence. Here's a
site that explains how to make and use one.
http://www.woodzone.com/tips/featherboard.htm
Inline Industries sells an A-Line-It Kit at the following link.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/
The users manual can be found at this link.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/a-line-it.html
Good Luck
Frank
Hi,
I assume that you are not using a splitter behind the blade. This can
help keep things going straight. It is also possible that you are
pushing to hard against the fence. It is possible to flex the fence so
that even though it is aligned with the blade without any pressure, with
the feed pressure it is no longer parallel.
Thanks
Roger Haar
******************************************
dpb wrote:
> gus wrote:
>> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
>> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
>> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>> ...
>> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
>> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
> ...
>> Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
>
> Possibly, if you either have only one blade or only use one blade, the
> set isn't uniform.
>
> Otherwise, other response so far covers the basics. Is it really
> difficult to keep a piece against the fence or do you typically simply
> try to run a piece through with only a push from the rear? It takes at
> least _some_ lateral force to keep a piece in contact w/ the fence...
>
In article <[email protected]>,
gus <[email protected]> wrote:
>On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
>during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
>and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
>1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
>specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
>point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
>
>2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
>I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
>
>3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
>as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
>
>Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
>
The disc is not necessary, but if you really want one check the usual
suspects, woodcraft, Rockler, etc.
Now, I assume you are talking about a normal ripping operation on the
saw. You said the workpiece "tends" to drift away from the fence. How
is the quality of the rip cut, though? Is it straight and smooth as
you would expect for the balde you use?
Anyway, the first thing to do is just the basic TS alignment
procedure. Align the saw blade so it is parallel to a miter slot by
loosening the trunion bolts on a contractor's saw, or the table bolts
on a cabinet saw. Next align the fence parallel to the miter slot.
(some would say align it to the blade & that is OK too, but the blade
needs to be aligned parallel to the miter slot first, or you may have
trouble with crosscuts using the miter gauge or anything else that
rides in the slot)
Another item often overlooked, is to make sure the
splitter is in the same plane as the blade, i.e. directly in line with
the blade and not angled away from it.
There are lots of ways to do this alignment using lots of different
tools. Any good tablesaw book will present a few of them. I like Kelly
Mehler's book myself.
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> > gus wrote:
>> >> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
>> >> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
>> >> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
> Whenever I make a cut on my table saw, I move the fence toward
> the blade with the gap between the two, is the cut I'm going to make.
> Then I measure from the fence to one of the table saw's slots at the
> saw blade. Then I make sure the front & rear of the fence is
> the same distance to the slot as the middle I just measured.
> That way, the fence will be paralell to the saw blade.
That is only true if the blade is parallel to the slot.
Hey gus,
My saw did the same thing (and it still would) until I bought a set of
"board buddies" from rockler and now it doesn't happen when I'm using them.
They are nice because they have the no kickback feature and their size helps
to remind me to keep fingers away from the danger area... You can find them
all over the internet for sale.
--
Rick Nagy
Johnstown, PA
[email protected] - Remove nospam to email me
Be sure to check out my website at http://www.rickscabinetshop.com
"gus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On my tablesaw the workpiece tends to drift away from the fence
> during the cut. I have done the usual checks on alignment of the blade
> and the fence, but the problem persists. Questions:
>
> 1) I have heard there is a flat disc which replaces the sawblade,
> specifically for use in precise alignment checking. Can someone
> point me to where to get such a disc (std 10" blade)?
>
> 2) What specific type of misalignment would cause the condition
> I describe? (Ie. what should I be looking for?)
>
> 3) Is it possible/likely that this is caused by shaft/blade runout
> as opposed to misalignment of the blade and/or the fence?
>
> Ideas/input appreciated. Thx, Gus
>