> How should I sign my pieces?
Use a pencil, it won't fade with time like ink will. Best bet would be
on the back or bottom where you won't put a stain (or might not put a
stain, depends on style I guess). If you want to protect it I suppose
you could put a finish over it, but that's up to you. And don't worry
about it being easily erased, if someone wanted to do that they could
also sand/scrape anything else you did to sign it so what's the
difference, right?
Mike
EdG wrote:
> I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
> but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
> Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
> surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
> EdG
>
The gold, or silver paint pens tend to write on most surfaces, I don't
think they would be much chop on a waxed surface though ??
As you have a burning tool, use a fine round tip and use it as a pen. I
have done this a few times and it works pretty good. (Before I finish
the item)
All the best
John
Clint wrote:
> I've seen web articles on the photo-etching that can be done, on a piece
> of
> brass (I think). Then that gets cut out, and embedded in the furniture.
> I thought that looked terribly cool and professional.
You could draw on a piece of brass with a Sharpie and then dunk it in some
ferric chloride from Radio Shack for awhile to etch it.
I've just been signing my stuff with a Sharpie. Careful not to shellac over
it. DAMHIKT. (Sharpie dissolves in alcohol...) I've got stuff I did 10
years ago that's still crystal clear. I don't go back further than 10
years in woodworking, so I can't say how it will look in 50.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
I sign all of mine in black sharpie, and finish over it, (oil/poly).
"EdG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
> but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
> Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
> surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
> EdG
>
yep I sign and date all pieces and if its for someone special ill write a
little note too. I do this in pencil and before I add any finish, since all
I use are clear finishes it has worked out well.
--
Dominic Palazzola
www.dominicswoodshop.com
"ROYNEU" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I use exactly that a burning tool with a fine point tip. I can write
> just like it were a piece of paper under the tool. The only problem is
> that the tip although fine still burns a line about the thickness of a
> piece of yarn.
>
> Roy
>
B a r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Mike in Mystic wrote:
>> Where I work we have literally dozens of Thomas Moser pieces, and
>> each one is signed and dated on the bottom by the person that
>> assembled it. It looks to me like they used a fine-point sharpie or
>> similar pen. All of the pieces are cherry, if that means much. Most
>> of them are about 5-6 years old and the writing looks great - all on
>> the undersides of chair seats/table tops etc.
>
> Just remember that Sharpie ink is not 100% alcohol proof. If shellac
> is applied directly over the ink, it may blur it. It would probably
> help if a light dusting of shellac or lacquer was the first coat over
> the ink.
Ditto this. I sign with a fine point Sharpie, then spray it lightly with a
coat of lacquer to seal it. Trying to put shellac over it without a
barrier coat will dissolve the ink.
You might try printing small labels with a laser printer then attaching
them by pasting them on using the last layer of finish (if you put the
label on with first coat, you risk sanding through it). Since the toner is
actually tiny beads of plastic that are fused together, it won't be
affected by solvents (well, none that won't attack the wood too..). You
can scan in signatures and logos and encorporate them into a design using
Word or Open Office. If you can find the right kind of paper for the
finish, the paper becomes almost transparent.
"Mike in Idaho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> How should I sign my pieces?
>
> Use a pencil, it won't fade with time like ink will. Best bet would be
> on the back or bottom where you won't put a stain (or might not put a
> stain, depends on style I guess). If you want to protect it I suppose
> you could put a finish over it, but that's up to you. And don't worry
> about it being easily erased, if someone wanted to do that they could
> also sand/scrape anything else you did to sign it so what's the
> difference, right?
>
> Mike
>
I didn't see the original post, but if the question is asking how one might
sign their work, I use an old wood burning pen and put my initials and date
in an inconspicuous corner. Before I had the wood burning pen, I used a
small soldering iron. Making curved letters with a straight tip is
sometimes a challange, but light passes with the tip helps. In some woods,
the tip will readily want to sink in "with the grain" and take forever to
mark "accross the grain".
Bill Leonhardt
Mike in Idaho wrote:
>>> How should I sign my pieces?
>>
>> Use a pencil, it won't fade with time like ink will. Best bet would
>> be on the back or bottom where you won't put a stain (or might not
>> put a stain, depends on style I guess). If you want to protect it I
>> suppose you could put a finish over it, but that's up to you. And
>> don't worry about it being easily erased, if someone wanted to do
>> that they could also sand/scrape anything else you did to sign it so
>> what's the difference, right?
>>
>> Mike
There is something classic about signing with pencil and I see it in museum
pieces on folkart and other handmade pieces.
Josie
On 14 Jul 2005 08:07:03 -0700, "EdG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
>surfaces?
Japanese calligraphy pens - cheap plastic ones from Sakura or similar
(any good stationer). They use archival-grade pigment based inks and
will last as long as necessary. They're also resistant to bleeding, if
you apply most solvents over them.
Chris Becksvoort (?) glues one of that year's nickels in place.
Where I work we have literally dozens of Thomas Moser pieces, and each one
is signed and dated on the bottom by the person that assembled it. It looks
to me like they used a fine-point sharpie or similar pen. All of the pieces
are cherry, if that means much. Most of them are about 5-6 years old and
the writing looks great - all on the undersides of chair seats/table tops
etc.
Mike
"EdG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
> but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
> Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
> surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
> EdG
>
Mike in Mystic wrote:
> Where I work we have literally dozens of Thomas Moser pieces, and each one
> is signed and dated on the bottom by the person that assembled it. It looks
> to me like they used a fine-point sharpie or similar pen. All of the pieces
> are cherry, if that means much. Most of them are about 5-6 years old and
> the writing looks great - all on the undersides of chair seats/table tops
> etc.
Just remember that Sharpie ink is not 100% alcohol proof. If shellac is
applied directly over the ink, it may blur it. It would probably help
if a light dusting of shellac or lacquer was the first coat over the ink.
"EdG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
> but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
> Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
> surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
> EdG
>
Sharpie
Or use a soldering iron to burn it.
I've seen web articles on the photo-etching that can be done, on a piece of
brass (I think). Then that gets cut out, and embedded in the furniture. I
thought that looked terribly cool and professional.
I think there was an article in a Wood Magazine on doing exactly that.
Clint
"EdG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
> but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
> Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
> surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
> EdG
>
BIC
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"EdG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
> but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
> Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
> surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
> EdG
>