How to get burn-free cuts?

Upscale wrote:
>
> Well, right now it's -15C with a wind chill of -24C in Toronto.
>
> That's -5F and minus 11F with the wind chill for you other people. It's
> supposed to be worse tomorrow.

I flew from Hartford to Harrisburg, PA and back in a small, twin-engined
aircraft Friday. Even with the gasoline powered Janitrol heater
cranked, flannel lined jeans, and three shirts, I froze @ only 5000 feet.

Normally, we can do burgers on the heater grate!

On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 09:12:51 -0800, WD <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have a
>tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like 0.001"
>with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Biesemeyer
>fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and Forrest
>WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll blade)
>after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
>and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as suggest
>by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>
>Thanks
>..

Are you using a blade stabilizer? If so, remove it and try again. The
stabilizer, its like a large 4" washer, isn't recommended by
blade producers, or at least Freund doesn't. The symtom I had
was burn marks on the side of the blade opposite the fence.
I was using a sled and kept burning the wood on the trailing
edge of the blade. Removed the stabilizer and problem
disappeared.

Otoe

On Thu, 15 Jan 2009 18:18:15 -0500, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Try coating your cutter with some petroleum jelly.
>
>Maple has a sugar-like compound in it that carbonizes when heated and
>the lubrication helps to retard this.

...long ago when carbide was a potential, we used WD40 to lube blades
when doing alot of Skilsaw ripping. That technique stuck with me and
I use the stuff to this day when called for...like when ripping maple
or any super dense wood. While the substance may help (and it does)
there is no substitute for a *steady* and consistent feed. When
preparing to rip longer material, I always review my footwork and hand
positioning...burns still occur on occasion, though, so leaving a
little extra to re-rip or joint is good CYA. ;0-)

cg
>
>
>
>
>
>On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 21:41:59 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"Leon" wrote in message
>>>
>>> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
>>> fast feed rate helps.
>>
>>Bingo!
>>
>>LOL ... even David J Marks has his share of burn with maple. With maple,
>>it's the 5 lb gorilla in the room nobody mentions. :)
>>
>>Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!
>Regards,
>
>Tom Watson
>http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

On Jan 14, 9:12 am, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have a
> tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like 0.001"
> with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Biesemeyer
> fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and Forrest
> WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll blade)
> after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
> and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as suggest
> by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>
> Thanks
> ..

I saw Norm cut maple and get a burn mark so don't feel so bad. I know
I felt better.
Phil Brown

It's not just the average feed rate, but make sure you keep the board
moving. When feeding a long board, I think the slow downs when
changing hands creates burns. Try to get a hand over hand motion to
keep the board always moving. I think feather boards help too because
the keep the board from moving as you change hands, and thus slightly
change the point on the board where you are applying force.

I also second the call for a 24T rip blade. I have a thin kerf Freud
rip blade and it is 100x better than my WWII when ripping. The perfect
combo blade is still a myth.

Mitch

I was once in a mode where I was creating lots of buthcer block tops.
This meant ripping hundreds of bf of 4/4 5/4/ and 6/4 hard maple into
l 1/2 to 2 1/2" strips. When the shop upgraded the burned out 3hp in
the unisaw to a 5hp I rarely saw burn after that unless I had stressed
wood that was pinching the blade (no splitter).

On Jan 14, 7:41=A0pm, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" wrote in message
>
> > "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, =A0=
A
> > fast feed rate helps.
>
> Bingo!
>
> LOL ... even David J Marks has his share of burn with maple. With maple,
> it's the 5 lb gorilla in the room nobody mentions. :)
>
> Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 10/22/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)

Upscale wrote:
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!
>
> Well, right now it's -15C with a wind chill of -24C in Toronto.
>
> That's -5F and minus 11F with the wind chill for you other people. It's
> supposed to be worse tomorrow.

It is supposed to be 82 degrees F (23 C) here is So Cal tomorrow. It was
86 F today. This week, it has been hot for January even by So Cal standards.


Dan

WD wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:20:24 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>>>"Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
>>
>>fast
>>
>>>feed rate helps.
>>
>>Never thought about it before, but it makes me wonder if there's anything
>>similar to TopCote except it's sprayed on the blade to permit easier cutting
>>resulting in a faster feed rate? Akin to soaping the blade so to speak.
>
>
> First let me thank everyone who replied. I can see It not only my problems.
> Previously, I use Oldham Signature Series combination saw blades. I encounter
> little or no burn. My past experienced cleaning the saw blades with a pink gum
> cleaning solution (sold by Woodcraft) will also remove the Teflon coating. I
> have since sold my old Crapmans table saw and with it, I generously gave all my
> Oldham blades. Today I cannot find Oldham Signature Series combination saw
> blades. Few weeks ago I did not buy one that was available in Ebay. It was a
> used and without the stabilizer. Anyone where I can buy an Oldham Signature
> Series saw blades? Thanks again.

See:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Oldham+Signature+Series+saw+blades&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

Many intervening factors.

Sharp blade
Proper blade ripping blade with fewer teet and big gullets for
clearing stock
Fast feed rate
Enough HP to support the required feed rate
This kerf helps with the HP issue
Freud or CMT coated blades help with the HP issue

You should be able to get no burn if you can feed fast enough.

On Jan 14, 9:12=A0am, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I hav=
e a
> tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". =A0(more lik=
e 0.001"
> with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Bie=
semeyer
> fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and F=
orrest
> WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll b=
lade)
> after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the f=
ence
> and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as s=
uggest
> by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>
> Thanks
> ..

"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!

Well, right now it's -15C with a wind chill of -24C in Toronto.

That's -5F and minus 11F with the wind chill for you other people. It's
supposed to be worse tomorrow.

Try coating your cutter with some petroleum jelly.

Maple has a sugar-like compound in it that carbonizes when heated and
the lubrication helps to retard this.





On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 21:41:59 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Leon" wrote in message
>>
>> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
>> fast feed rate helps.
>
>Bingo!
>
>LOL ... even David J Marks has his share of burn with maple. With maple,
>it's the 5 lb gorilla in the room nobody mentions. :)
>
>Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!
Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:20:24 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
>fast
>> feed rate helps.
>
>Never thought about it before, but it makes me wonder if there's anything
>similar to TopCote except it's sprayed on the blade to permit easier cutting
>resulting in a faster feed rate? Akin to soaping the blade so to speak.

First let me thank everyone who replied. I can see It not only my problems.
Previously, I use Oldham Signature Series combination saw blades. I encounter
little or no burn. My past experienced cleaning the saw blades with a pink gum
cleaning solution (sold by Woodcraft) will also remove the Teflon coating. I
have since sold my old Crapmans table saw and with it, I generously gave all my
Oldham blades. Today I cannot find Oldham Signature Series combination saw
blades. Few weeks ago I did not buy one that was available in Ebay. It was a
used and without the stabilizer. Anyone where I can buy an Oldham Signature
Series saw blades? Thanks again.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:45:52 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have
>> a
>> tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like
>> 0.001"
>> with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the
>> Biesemeyer
>> fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and
>> Forrest
>> WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll
>> blade)
>> after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the
>> fence
>> and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as
>> suggest
>> by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>>
>> Thanks
>> ..
>When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then either
>cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
>
That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back
of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:52:17 -0500, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 09:12:51 -0800, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have a
>>tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like 0.001"
>>with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Biesemeyer
>>fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and Forrest
>>WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll blade)
>>after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
>>and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as suggest
>>by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>>
>>Thanks
>>..
>
>Are you using a blade stabilizer? If so, remove it and try again. The
>stabilizer, its like a large 4" washer, isn't recommended by
>blade producers, or at least Freund doesn't. The symtom I had
>was burn marks on the side of the blade opposite the fence.
>I was using a sled and kept burning the wood on the trailing
>edge of the blade. Removed the stabilizer and problem
>disappeared.
>
>Otoe

I am using a stabilizer, Forrest WW2 blade. Kerf is 0.100". Forrest strongly
recommends stabilizer for this blade. Having said that, I came across a post,
"Charlie Groh" (see cut-and-paste below) on Tenyru's Gold Medal saw blade, kerf
0.111". (BTW, Tenyru's is made in Japan). Since I don't print greenbacks;
thinking hard which one to adds to my collection. Tenyru - $84, Oldham Signature
Series (40T) $49.00 or, a new Forrest blade a flat-tip (good for making feather
board) duno how much it cost.

(On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:49:47 -0800, Charlie Groh)
Re: Saw Blade: value of flat?

...great advice. I own two Forrest blades: a WWII 40 tooth ATB thick
kerf and an 80 tooth 12" Chopmaster. Both have performed as
advertised ...I've had the runout checked on the TS blade and they
(Accurate Cut Carbide in Salt Lake City) adjusted it with no
probs...I've resharpened 2 or 3 times. Fine products. That said, I
ran into a brand named "Tenyru" that are the finest I've seen yet...I
know, not USA, but what a great blade. I use the "Gold Medal" 10" 40
tooth on my TS and kinda alternate with the Forrest and always end up
going back to the Tenyru. Got a melamine-design 10" 100 tooth that
is phenomenal. FWIW...stick with what works for *you!*

cg

"Leon" wrote in message
>
> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
> fast feed rate helps.

Bingo!

LOL ... even David J Marks has his share of burn with maple. With maple,
it's the 5 lb gorilla in the room nobody mentions. :)

Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

MikeWhy wrote:
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously
>> ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A
>> feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock
>> firmly against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would
>> cause a safety issue.
>
>
> It raises the question of why a second featherboard might improve
> matters. The specific concern would be the straightness of the fence or
> stock.
>
>

The second feather board would help in eliminating any operator error of
rotating the stock away from the fence while feeding the piece through
the blade, in particular while changing hands or switching over to a
push stick.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple.

I hear you. I struggle with the same problem.

Keep you feed rate up... that wil help alot.

-Steve

"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have
> a
> tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like
> 0.001"
> with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the
> Biesemeyer
> fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and
> Forrest
> WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll
> blade)
> after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the
> fence
> and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as
> suggest
> by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>
> Thanks
> ..
When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then either
cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.

klaatu wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:45:52 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then either
>> cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
>>
> That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back
> of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.


Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

WD wrote:
> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have a
> tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like 0.001"
> with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Biesemeyer
> fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and Forrest
> WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll blade)
> after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
> and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as suggest
> by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>
> Thanks
> ...

Maple, being high in sugar content, has a tendency to burn easily.
Increasing the toe out most likely cause the burn to be on the waste
side (the side opposite the fence) of the cut.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have
> a
> tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like
> 0.001"
> with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the
> Biesemeyer
> fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and
> Forrest
> WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll
> blade)
> after the tune-up.

I would suggest using a full kerf blade, thin kerf blades can and do flex
ahd could be rubbing the wood.



Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
> and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as
> suggest
> by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?


If every thing is correctly set up NO moving the fence out at the back only
creates problems some where else. You want your fence to be dead parallel
to the blade. Moving the fence out only hides problems and leaves the waste
side of the cut with a rough edge which is not a good thin if you plan on
using the waste side.

"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
> fast
>> feed rate helps.
>
> Never thought about it before, but it makes me wonder if there's anything
> similar to TopCote except it's sprayed on the blade to permit easier
> cutting
> resulting in a faster feed rate? Akin to soaping the blade so to speak.
>
>
Actually there is a coating for bits and blades. Empire makes it.

"Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A fast
feed rate helps.

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A
fast
> feed rate helps.

Never thought about it before, but it makes me wonder if there's anything
similar to TopCote except it's sprayed on the blade to permit easier cutting
resulting in a faster feed rate? Akin to soaping the blade so to speak.

"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> klaatu wrote:
>> On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:45:52 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then
>>> either cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
>> That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back
>> of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.
>
>
> Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?
>
> --
I'm sure he meant on the left side of the blade for both feather boards.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:11:09 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Many intervening factors.
>
>Sharp blade
>Proper blade ripping blade with fewer teet and big gullets for
>clearing stock
>Fast feed rate
>Enough HP to support the required feed rate
>This kerf helps with the HP issue
>Freud or CMT coated blades help with the HP issue
>
[...snip...]

And clean the pitch off the blade.

"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lowell Holmes wrote:
>> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>klaatu wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:45:52 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
>>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then
>>>>>either cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
>>>>
>>>>That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back
>>>>of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.
>>>
>>>
>>>Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?
>>>
>>>--
>>
>> I'm sure he meant on the left side of the blade for both feather boards.
>>
>>
>>
>
> I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously
> ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A
> feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock firmly
> against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would cause a
> safety issue.

It raises the question of why a second featherboard might improve matters.
The specific concern would be the straightness of the fence or stock.

Nova wrote:
> Lowell Holmes wrote:
> I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously
> ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A
> feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock
> firmly against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would
> cause a safety issue.

Ah yes, gotcha. I glossed over that part. :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 20:03:05 -0800, WD <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:52:17 -0500, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 09:12:51 -0800, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have a
>>>tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like 0.001"
>>>with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Biesemeyer
>>>fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and Forrest
>>>WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll blade)
>>>after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
>>>and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as suggest
>>>by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>..
>>
>>Are you using a blade stabilizer? If so, remove it and try again. The
>>stabilizer, its like a large 4" washer, isn't recommended by
>>blade producers, or at least Freund doesn't. The symtom I had
>>was burn marks on the side of the blade opposite the fence.
>>I was using a sled and kept burning the wood on the trailing
>>edge of the blade. Removed the stabilizer and problem
>>disappeared.
>>
>>Otoe
>
>I am using a stabilizer, Forrest WW2 blade. Kerf is 0.100". Forrest strongly
>recommends stabilizer for this blade. Having said that, I came across a post,
>"Charlie Groh" (see cut-and-paste below) on Tenyru's Gold Medal saw blade, kerf
>0.111". (BTW, Tenyru's is made in Japan). Since I don't print greenbacks;
>thinking hard which one to adds to my collection. Tenyru - $84, Oldham Signature
>Series (40T) $49.00 or, a new Forrest blade a flat-tip (good for making feather
>board) duno how much it cost.
>
>(On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:49:47 -0800, Charlie Groh)
>Re: Saw Blade: value of flat?
>
>...great advice. I own two Forrest blades: a WWII 40 tooth ATB thick
>kerf and an 80 tooth 12" Chopmaster. Both have performed as
>advertised ...I've had the runout checked on the TS blade and they
>(Accurate Cut Carbide in Salt Lake City) adjusted it with no
>probs...I've resharpened 2 or 3 times. Fine products. That said, I
>ran into a brand named "Tenyru" that are the finest I've seen yet...I
>know, not USA, but what a great blade. I use the "Gold Medal" 10" 40
>tooth on my TS and kinda alternate with the Forrest and always end up
>going back to the Tenyru. Got a melamine-design 10" 100 tooth that
>is phenomenal. FWIW...stick with what works for *you!*
>
>cg

...just to follow this up...the Forrest 24 tooth is now back on the
saw...they're in a battle to the finish!

cg

>>>>>When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then
>>>>>either cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
>>>>
>>>>That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back
>>>>of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.
>>>
>>>
>>>Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?
>>>
>>>--
>>
>> I'm sure he meant on the left side of the blade for both feather boards.
>>
>>
>>
>
>I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously
>ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A
>feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock
>firmly against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would
>cause a safety issue.

Exactly. This cut is so good I use it for glue up without using my
joint er.

Leon wrote:
> "Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A fast
> feed rate helps.
>

A good 20T rip blade can also help.

I love my WWII's, but sometimes, the tooth count is simply not right for
a specific job.

Lowell Holmes wrote:
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>klaatu wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:45:52 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then
>>>>either cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
>>>
>>>That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back
>>>of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.
>>
>>
>>Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?
>>
>>--
>
> I'm sure he meant on the left side of the blade for both feather boards.
>
>
>

I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously
ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A
feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock
firmly against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would
cause a safety issue.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]