Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
next question - compressor lines
Have small (8 gallon, 120 PSI rated) compressor, would like to run an
airline up the wall, and overhead to the center of my garage,
connection to a reel mounted on the ceiling (11'). Total length of run
from compressor to the reel is around 30' or so. The reel itslef has
25' of hose, so total run end to end, at most, would be 50'-60'.
Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
"oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
"Greg O" wrote:
> What does "floating my boat" have to do with realistic air line sizing??
The cost differential between 1/2 & 3/4 pipe gets lost in the wash when
looking at the total installed cost.
Cutting and threading costs whether done with the installers own tools or
purchased from the pipe supplier, will be the same for either 1/2 or 3/4.
Installation labor will be the same either 1/2 or 3/4, even it is only sweat
equity.
After all, sweat equity is a supply limited item, thus has a cost other than
just economic.
Thus, "....whatever floats your boat" applies, IMHO.
BTW if this werte a serious pneumatic system, 2" pipe would be the pipe of
choice for a home shop system.
Why 2"?
Why not larger?
Ever try to thread fittings on anything larger than 2"?
Why not smaller?
Poor economics.
Enuf said.
Lew
On Feb 2, 9:29=A0pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Mike O." =A0wrote
>
> > I don't think you'll have any problem at 60" or so.
>
> > Mike O.
>
> Five feet...or so?
>
> Max
OP
forgot to mention that the compressor only has a 1/4" nip, so does
that mean having a 1/2" main run buys me anything, given I will have
to have a reducer at the compressor itself, or does it matter?
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 03:29:47 GMT, "Max" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Mike O.
>
>Five feet...or so?
ooops...60 FEET
Mike O.
"cc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4337a24e-d4c9-48b2-8e06-4cee29bf0559@q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> >
> Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
> "oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
>
> And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
The HP of the compressor has nothing to do with having enough "oomph" to
move air that far. 1/2 HP or 30 HP it just depends on how much air you want
at the other end of the line, then size the line diameter accordingly. In
your case 1/2" plumbing copper will do, 1/2" black pipe too. On the cheap, a
1/2 air hose from Harbor Freight would probably do fine too.
DO NOT USE PVC PIPE MADE FOR WATER LINES!!!
Greg
Max wrote:
> "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>"Greg O" wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>3/4" is way overkill for a home shop with less than 100 foot run.
>>>
>>>What ever floats your boat.
>>>
>>>Lew
>>>
>>>
>>
>>What does "floating my boat" have to do with realistic air line sizing??
>>I was jut stating the fact that 3/4" is over kill, which it is. The OP is
>>looking for a budget way to run air lines in his shop, why go 3/4" when
>>1/2" is oversized to begin with? I guess if 3/4" is better, than 2" is way
>>better yet? Where does it stop?
>>Greg
>
>
> Yabbut, using 6" piping will be like having another reservoir <G>
>
> Max
>
>
If you use 6", I would go with butt weld. 6" screw pipe requires two
72" pipe wrenches and is a real pain to run. VERY hard to get started,
especially with long runs (over 20'). I have run alot of this and it is
NOT easy.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
On Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:42:29 -0800 (PST), cc <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
>next question - compressor lines
>
>Have small (8 gallon, 120 PSI rated) compressor, would like to run an
>airline up the wall, and overhead to the center of my garage,
>connection to a reel mounted on the ceiling (11'). Total length of run
>from compressor to the reel is around 30' or so. The reel itslef has
>25' of hose, so total run end to end, at most, would be 50'-60'.
>
>Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
>"oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
>
>And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
How much pressure do your tools require? If all you are using the
compressor for is to blow off dust then you will have no issues.
Pressure and volume make tools work. A dust nozzle requires some
pressure and some volume. Painting a car with a spray gun might
require a lot of volume and modest pressure like 50 psi. Running a
dual action sander might require a lot of volume. Maybe 5 cfm at 90+
psi. Some cheap tools require a lot of air and sometimes expensive
tools require less air.
Every fitting and every turn reduces the volume and pressure a little
bit. Undersized pipe causes problems.
On Feb 2, 12:42=A0pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
> next question - compressor lines
>
> Have small (8 gallon, 120 PSI rated) compressor, would like to run an
> airline up the wall, and overhead to the center of my garage,
> connection to a reel mounted on the ceiling (11'). Total length of run
> from compressor to the reel is around 30' or so. The reel itslef has
> 25' of hose, so total run end to end, at most, would be 50'-60'.
>
> Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
> "oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
>
> And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
I did the research and ran the calculations just a couple of weeks ago
because I ran an air line about 100 feet from my shop to the center of
my garage ceiling. Pressure is the same everywhere in the system
until the air starts flowing. Then the friction of the air moving
along the sides of the pipe reduces the pressure a little for each
inch it travels. The pressure drop from all those inches adds up and
the total pressure drop depends on flow rate and pipe size and pipe
length. If you'll use 1/2" pipe on a run of less than 100 feet, the
pressure drop is negligible at the flow rates your compressor can
maintain. In other words you'll get the same performance at the end
of the line that you would get if you hooked directly to the
compressor. In fact, 100 feet of 1/2" pipe will add about 1 gallon of
capacity to your tank - not that you'll notice. PVC pipe is out
because it shatters when it fails, but you can use polypropylene or
polyethylene water pipe. It's usually black, and comes in a
roll.
DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle
"cc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3612405f-da94-473a-8f67-69f1a32b3eda@j78g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 2, 9:29 pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Mike O." wrote
>
> > I don't think you'll have any problem at 60" or so.
>
> > Mike O.
>
> Five feet...or so?
>
> Max
OP
forgot to mention that the compressor only has a 1/4" nip, so does
that mean having a 1/2" main run buys me anything, given I will have
to have a reducer at the compressor itself, or does it matter?
Yeah, that smaller nipple restricts the flow. Larger pope/hose on the other
side will only give you a split second more volume.
The 1/2" on the other side will not add but it will certainly help to not be
as restrictive as 1/4" pipe would be.
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:39:18 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Well actually, 2" pope would give you a larger air storage capacity. ;~)
>
And a blessing!
On Feb 2, 1:42 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
> next question - compressor lines
"DO NOT USE PVC PIPE MADE FOR WATER LINES!!! "
Responded someone. I beg to differ. John and I had and John still has
a shop fitted with schedule 40 PVC lines for his large compressor. The
large I.D. of the PVC pipe serves as additional volume and the runs
and drops provide access all over the shop.
Each outlet is fitted along a vertical drop that terminates in a weep
valve below (for draining the lines.
We used automotive ROS, Grinders, Binks Spray Guns, die grinders for
years and years without a problem. I can't recall the exact sprecs on
the compressor, but it was a two-stage with an 80 gallon tank or damn
close to it - Tall as I.
Air pressure is measured at the compressor, but should be the same if
you moved the gauge to the end of the line.
Holding capacity is initially limited by the attached tank, but
increases the moment you attach an air hose so the tank size never
equals the working volume, now does it?
You let a little air out and nothing happens, a bit more and at some
point the overall pressure in the lines and tank frops below the
refresh setting and your pump begins to run to pump in sufficient air
to raise the pressure to the high cut-off point.
Restrictions due to a smaller diameter hose (or PVC piping) could,
indeed impact the performance. But you are going to use 3/4" PVC or
larger and avoid such a complication.
My bet is that your little compressor is the only "choke point" in
your planned approach and that will be remedied down the road when you
can afford to connect a bigger, more powerful unit to the PVC piping
installed to over yourself today.
Provide for drainage and filtration and you'll do just fine.
On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 11:46:12 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"DO NOT USE PVC PIPE MADE FOR WATER LINES!!! "
>
>Responded someone. I beg to differ.
OK, as long as you don't have to satisfy any OSHA regs and aren't
worried about flying plastic shards in the event that the pipe does
rupture.
"(T)he Plastic Pipe Institute, in its Recommendation B dated January
19, 1972, recommends against the use of thermoplastic pipe to
transport compressed air or other compressed gases in exposed plant
piping."
...
"It is our position that PVC pipe shall not be used as a means of
transporting compressed air. This position follows the manufacturer's
own statements that PVC is unsuitable for compressed air systems. "
http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"Robert Allison" wrote
> Max wrote:
>
>> Yabbut, using 6" piping will be like having another reservoir <G>
>>
>> Max
>
> If you use 6", I would go with butt weld. 6" screw pipe requires two 72"
> pipe wrenches and is a real pain to run. VERY hard to get started,
> especially with long runs (over 20'). I have run alot of this and it is
> NOT easy.
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
Thanks for the tip. Glad I have a welder. <BG>
Max
The answer to your question depends on lots of things:
-Pumping rate of compressor at 120 psi
-ID of hose
-ID of the line you will run to it.
-How much air flow you need at the end of the hose.
-Pressure you need at the end of the hose.
----and probably a half dozen other things I forgot.
The pumping rate is key. You could have a 120 psi compressor that
supplies 1 cu ft per minute or it could supply 10 cfm. I think you'd
want at least 4 to 6 cfm at 120 psi.
Okay, so the compressor is "rated at 120 psi". What are the on and off
pressures set at? If I was thinking "120 psi" I'd want a system that
turned on at 120 psi and off at something higher, like 140 psi, so I'd
actually HAVE 120 to use. If that is true, and if the highest pressure
you need is, let's say 90 psi, you have some "room" for a pressure drop
along the system.
If you need more volume at pressure than your compressor can supply,
although you said you can't afford a bigger compressor, you might get
bigger receiving tank. If you do this, make sure it's rated for the
pressure you intend to use. This way you'd get a longer duty cycle
between "waits" for the compressor to catch up. ----Again, depends a
LOT on what you want to do.
You need to identify the tools that you want to use.
With 3/8" hose and 1/2" lines to the reel, you'll have no problems with
impact tools, but it might be touch and go with a high powered grinder
running in more or less continuous mode.
Pete Stanaitis
------------------
cc wrote:
> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
> next question - compressor lines
>
> Have small (8 gallon, 120 PSI rated) compressor, would like to run an
> airline up the wall, and overhead to the center of my garage,
> connection to a reel mounted on the ceiling (11'). Total length of run
> from compressor to the reel is around 30' or so. The reel itslef has
> 25' of hose, so total run end to end, at most, would be 50'-60'.
>
> Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
> "oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
>
> And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
"cc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4337a24e-d4c9-48b2-8e06-4cee29bf0559@q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
> next question - compressor lines
>
> Have small (8 gallon, 120 PSI rated) compressor, would like to run an
> airline up the wall, and overhead to the center of my garage,
> connection to a reel mounted on the ceiling (11'). Total length of run
> from compressor to the reel is around 30' or so. The reel itslef has
> 25' of hose, so total run end to end, at most, would be 50'-60'.
>
> Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
> "oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
>
> And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
The length of the hose could be 1000 feet and would not affect pressure.
Volume/flow could be affected however.
As long as you are only using the air to blow dust, fill tires or operate
nail guns you should be able to run just about any length that you want.
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:37:55 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Yeah, that smaller nipple restricts the flow. Larger pope/hose on the other
>side will only give you a split second more volume.
>The 1/2" on the other side will not add but it will certainly help to not be
>as restrictive as 1/4" pipe would be.
Correct - the effect depending on how much of the larger diameter pipe
is downstream of the restriction. The more pipe volume downstream of
the restriction the larger the effective tankage.
A quarter inch orifice in the line will restrict the flow more than if
the orifice wasn't there, but nowhere near as much as if the entire
line were the diameter of the orifice. The larger the pipe, the less
pressure drop per foot for a given flow rate - or - the greater the
flow rate for a given pressure drop. And, ignoring start/stop
transients, steady state performance is independent of where in the
line the restriction/orifice is located.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
> forgot to mention that the compressor only has a 1/4" nip, so does
> that mean having a 1/2" main run buys me anything, given I will have
> to have a reducer at the compressor itself, or does it matter?
The 1/2" main buys you a lot. Many people assume that if one part of
the pipe is small, then the rest of it might as well be small too
because only so much air can get through the small part anyway. Their
thinking is erroneous.
The air can move through a very short section of small pipe at great
speed. But every inch that it moves along at great speed slows it
down a little from friction against the walls. If the whole length is
small, the friction losses for all those inches add up and the air
will move much slower.
However, if the pipe is big enough, the air inside is just loafing
along, not moving fast enough for the friction along the sides to be
significant. Then, the friction losses for the long section of big
pipe become insignificant, so you only have a few inches where it's
moving really fast. You can live with the friction losses for a few
inches.
By the way, if you remember (A=PI R Square), the 1/2" pipe is really
FOUR times larger in volume than the same length of 1/4" pipe.
Therefore, the air is moving at least four times as fast in the 1/4"
pipe as it is in the 1/2" pipe. In fact you get an additional
advantage from the bigger pipe because the air at the center of the
pipe can go faster than the air around the edges. The value of this
phenomenon increases with pipe size. Maybe more than you really
wanted to know, but some of this is counter-intuitive.
DonkeyHody
"Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Greg O" wrote:
>
>> 3/4" is way overkill for a home shop with less than 100 foot run.
>
> What ever floats your boat.
>
> Lew
>
>
What does "floating my boat" have to do with realistic air line sizing??
I was jut stating the fact that 3/4" is over kill, which it is. The OP is
looking for a budget way to run air lines in his shop, why go 3/4" when 1/2"
is oversized to begin with? I guess if 3/4" is better, than 2" is way better
yet? Where does it stop?
Greg
Robert Allison wrote:
> Max wrote:
>
>> "Robert Allison" wrote
>>
>>
>>> Max wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Yabbut, using 6" piping will be like having another reservoir <G>
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>
>>>
>>> If you use 6", I would go with butt weld. 6" screw pipe requires two
>>> 72" pipe wrenches and is a real pain to run. VERY hard to get
>>> started, especially with long runs (over 20'). I have run alot of
>>> this and it is NOT easy.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Robert Allison
>>> Rimshot, Inc.
>>> Georgetown, TX
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the tip. Glad I have a welder. <BG>
>>
>> Max
>
>
> I got fired from a job over 24" screw pipe. My helper let the backup
> wrench slip and we turned the building over.
In remembering my old pipefitting days, I recalled a time when I was on
a chemical plant job and told this old joke to my new welder and his
very green helper. I finished the line about turning the building over
and the helper asked: "Anyone get hurt?"
That was funnier than the joke.
And believe me, I really have run 6" screw pipe for fire suppression
systems in the laboratories. The main run is 6", it really requires a
72" pipe wrench (which weigh about 75 pounds each) and it is all
suspended in the ceiling to supply the fire sprinklers. The drain lines
are the coolest. They are 2" pyrex (chemical resistance).
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
Greg O wrote:
> "Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Feb 2, 1:42 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
>>> next question - compressor lines
>>
>> "DO NOT USE PVC PIPE MADE FOR WATER LINES!!! "
>>
>> Responded someone. I beg to differ. John and I had and John still has
>> a shop fitted with schedule 40 PVC lines for his large compressor.
>
> Just because you are getting away with it does not make it right. I have
> seen PVC pipe explode for no apparent reason with 100 PSI air pressure.
> I guy I know has scars on his face from a different PVC pipe rupture.
> The stuff is dangerous. When it ruptures it goes off like a hand grenade
> spewing PVC shrapnel all over the room.
> Manufacturers and OSHA have warnings against it's use. ...
What he says...
It is _NOT_ suitable for air, at least if there are any exposed runs--if
all were underground or otherwise contained entirely, it would at least
not present the imminent threat altho still unapproved...
As well as just the simple bursting scenario, it is subject to similar
disintegration failure on impact, etc., ...
--
dpb wrote:
> Greg O wrote:
> ...
>> Just because you are getting away with it does not make it right. I
>> have seen PVC pipe explode for no apparent reason with 100 PSI air
>> pressure. ...
>
> Seems like I've seen a clip somewhere of the resulting carnage --
> don't recall exactly where; OSHA report, maybe???
Sounds like a good Mythbusters. In fact I just suggested it.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Greg O wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message >>
>>> Seems like I've seen a clip somewhere of the resulting carnage --
>>> don't recall exactly where; OSHA report, maybe???
>>
>> Sounds like a good Mythbusters. In fact I just suggested it.
>>
>
> Check this out,
> http://www.nmsu.edu/~safety/news/news-items/PVC&comp_air_lines.htm
>
> http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=20202
Regulatory papers have far less impact than seeing what really happens
when the stuff goes bust.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:42:29 -0800 (PST), cc <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
>"oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
I don't think you'll have any problem at 60" or so.
Mike O.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message >>
>> Seems like I've seen a clip somewhere of the resulting carnage --
>> don't recall exactly where; OSHA report, maybe???
>
> Sounds like a good Mythbusters. In fact I just suggested it.
>
Check this out,
http://www.nmsu.edu/~safety/news/news-items/PVC&comp_air_lines.htm
http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=20202
Greg
Max wrote:
> "Robert Allison" wrote
>
>
>>Max wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Yabbut, using 6" piping will be like having another reservoir <G>
>>>
>>>Max
>>
>>If you use 6", I would go with butt weld. 6" screw pipe requires two 72"
>>pipe wrenches and is a real pain to run. VERY hard to get started,
>>especially with long runs (over 20'). I have run alot of this and it is
>>NOT easy.
>>
>>--
>>Robert Allison
>>Rimshot, Inc.
>>Georgetown, TX
>
>
> Thanks for the tip. Glad I have a welder. <BG>
>
> Max
I got fired from a job over 24" screw pipe. My helper let the backup
wrench slip and we turned the building over.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
Looking back at all the posts so far, and the fact thay you say your
output is , "1/4" nip", (I assume that means a 1/4" pipe fitting), I
suggest that before you install all that pipe, you make darned sure that
the compressor will handle all the tools you intend to run from it in
the future, right from the tank. I say this because that 1/4" outlet
makes me think that the compressor setup may not be very powerful; ie:
it may only deliver 1 or 2 cfm at rated pressure.
Pete Stanaitis
-------------------
cc wrote:
> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
> next question - compressor lines
>
> Have small (8 gallon, 120 PSI rated) compressor, would like to run an
> airline up the wall, and overhead to the center of my garage,
> connection to a reel mounted on the ceiling (11'). Total length of run
> from compressor to the reel is around 30' or so. The reel itslef has
> 25' of hose, so total run end to end, at most, would be 50'-60'.
>
> Know the compressor is small, so is my budget, does it have enough
> "oomph" to produce/maintain pressure at max run - 60 feet?
>
> And no, can't just go buy a bigger unit :)
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> What does "floating my boat" have to do with realistic air line sizing??
> I was jut stating the fact that 3/4" is over kill, which it is. The OP is
> looking for a budget way to run air lines in his shop, why go 3/4" when
> 1/2" is oversized to begin with? I guess if 3/4" is better, than 2" is way
> better yet? Where does it stop?
> Greg
Realistic depends on use. We have 6" in our shop. Three large tanks too.
The larger line also acts as a reservoir of air so there are advantages
under some circumstances. Doesn't make a difference for a couple of taps on
a brad nailer, it will with an air wrench.
On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 11:46:12 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Feb 2, 1:42 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
>> next question - compressor lines
>
>"DO NOT USE PVC PIPE MADE FOR WATER LINES!!! "
>
>Responded someone. I beg to differ. John and I had and John still has
>a shop fitted with schedule 40 PVC lines for his large compressor. The
>large I.D. of the PVC pipe serves as additional volume and the runs
>and drops provide access all over the shop.
>
>Each outlet is fitted along a vertical drop that terminates in a weep
>valve below (for draining the lines.
>
>We used automotive ROS, Grinders, Binks Spray Guns, die grinders for
>years and years without a problem. I can't recall the exact sprecs on
>the compressor, but it was a two-stage with an 80 gallon tank or damn
>close to it - Tall as I.
>
>Air pressure is measured at the compressor, but should be the same if
>you moved the gauge to the end of the line.
>
>Holding capacity is initially limited by the attached tank, but
>increases the moment you attach an air hose so the tank size never
>equals the working volume, now does it?
>
>You let a little air out and nothing happens, a bit more and at some
>point the overall pressure in the lines and tank frops below the
>refresh setting and your pump begins to run to pump in sufficient air
>to raise the pressure to the high cut-off point.
>
>Restrictions due to a smaller diameter hose (or PVC piping) could,
>indeed impact the performance. But you are going to use 3/4" PVC or
>larger and avoid such a complication.
>
>My bet is that your little compressor is the only "choke point" in
>your planned approach and that will be remedied down the road when you
>can afford to connect a bigger, more powerful unit to the PVC piping
>installed to over yourself today.
>
>Provide for drainage and filtration and you'll do just fine.
>
>
Do NOT use PVC. It is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if it is shocked while under
pressure . It fragments violently, and packs a FATAL blow if you are
in the (rather extensive) range of fire.
It also deteriorates in contact with oil, and you cannot guarantee
your air is oil free. This makes it more brittle.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Greg O" wrote:
>>
>>> 3/4" is way overkill for a home shop with less than 100 foot run.
>>
>> What ever floats your boat.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> What does "floating my boat" have to do with realistic air line sizing??
> I was jut stating the fact that 3/4" is over kill, which it is. The OP is
> looking for a budget way to run air lines in his shop, why go 3/4" when
> 1/2" is oversized to begin with? I guess if 3/4" is better, than 2" is way
> better yet? Where does it stop?
> Greg
Well actually, 2" pope would give you a larger air storage capacity. ;~)
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RE: Subject
>
> Run 3/4 black iron pipe for the hard piping.
>
> Relatively low cost, provides some added storage capacity to minimixe
> pressure drop from pulse devices such as nail guns.
>
> Will be totally meaningless for a spray gun.
>
> Lew
>
>
3/4" is way overkill for a home shop with less than 100 foot run. 1/2" pipe
will flow any hand tool most of us have laying around.
Do some research online and see what the CFM ratings are at different
lengths. The last chart I saw gave 1/2" pipe, at 100 feet of length, 54 CFM
at 100 PSI, probably good enough!
Years back in a shop I had I ran 1/2" black pipe. I put a pressure gauge at
the end of the run, where the most work was. No tool I owned at the time
would even make the gauge pointer wiggle when the tool was run.
Greg
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Feb 2, 1:42 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Received great comments on haning the air filter unit..now on to the
>> next question - compressor lines
>
> "DO NOT USE PVC PIPE MADE FOR WATER LINES!!! "
>
> Responded someone. I beg to differ. John and I had and John still has
> a shop fitted with schedule 40 PVC lines for his large compressor.
Just because you are getting away with it does not make it right. I have
seen PVC pipe explode for no apparent reason with 100 PSI air pressure. I
guy I know has scars on his face from a different PVC pipe rupture. The
stuff is dangerous. When it ruptures it goes off like a hand grenade spewing
PVC shrapnel all over the room.
Manufacturers and OSHA have warnings against it's use. I used PVC in the
past, but never again after seeing the carnage when it fails.
I know guys that go to the bar and drink until they can barely walk, then
drive home. They have been doing it for years with no problems, so I guess
it is ok.
Greg
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Greg O" wrote:
>>
>>> 3/4" is way overkill for a home shop with less than 100 foot run.
>>
>> What ever floats your boat.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> What does "floating my boat" have to do with realistic air line sizing??
> I was jut stating the fact that 3/4" is over kill, which it is. The OP is
> looking for a budget way to run air lines in his shop, why go 3/4" when
> 1/2" is oversized to begin with? I guess if 3/4" is better, than 2" is way
> better yet? Where does it stop?
> Greg
Yabbut, using 6" piping will be like having another reservoir <G>
Max