Howdy Folks,
I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
(www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
perform professionally.
Here is my problem: Ive started work on a project that requires a fairly
large bolt to go through a 4X4. Anywho, the nuts I am using have the plastic
on the inside to make the hold more strong (pardon me, im still elarning all
the proper word!). Anyways, when screwing one on, I got it just tight enough
that the bolt just broke into the plastic, I realized that the bolts were
far to long for what I need. So naturally, I started to take the nut off to
replace it with the proper length of bolt.
Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
What should I do to remove this?
Thank you For your Help!
-Aaron
--
--
http://www.newlinemagic.com
"The Impossible Made Possible."
http://www.PatrickErrins.com
"Calgary's Finest Young Entertainer!"
> It happened to me too when trying to replace my car muffler. It was a
> tight spot so I used a new hacksaw blade to cut off the bolts. New
> bolts are inexpensive.
Seized bolts? Hell...you ought to wrestle with seized spark plugs!
Possibly a boring story-but I'm tellin' it.
I had this '87 Maxima to which I naively assumed the plugs would
last 100K. Around 65K, I knew I "needed" to replace them - Sunday
afternoon of course. Got out all my craftsmen sockets & sure enough,
3 (of 6) broke off - right in half.
S--t! Aluminum heads too.
Can't get too aggressive. Got me the biggest flathead in my arsenal
and tapped it down, gently into the first plug - you know, the cavity
around the ceramic center. Clamped my big pipe clamp to the handle.
Tapped down, tapped on the side, sprayed with WD-40 - repeat a few
times & spray the ones to come. Wait 30 min. Repeat for about 3-4 hours
- got to drive to work tomorrow!
Couldn't believe it when I got them out - with a lot af bruises & cuts,
but it taught me a lesson about persrverence (sp)!
Anyhow, they eventually all came out and the new ones slid in real
fine. But I swore then never to change my own plugs again - or if I do,
stick to 25K miles or so.
15 years later (and retired) I find myself doing more of my own car
maintenance again. Back to doing my own oil/filter (hate waiting 2 hours
at the fast lube place for something that takes me 15 min).
Not WW, but FWIW!
Lou
Fri, Oct 1, 2004, 5:45pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (Aaron=A0Fagan)
claims:
<snip> I started to take the nut off to replace it with the proper
length of bolt.
Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can
or two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
What should I do to remove this?
Well, you sure fooled me.
I must be missing something. I read your post. I read a batch of
the replies. Cut the bolt?
The part about "sore knuckles" makes me think you were trying to
unscrew it using your fingers.
I've never had any problems taking one off. Just use a wrench on
the bolt head, and another wrench to take the nut off. Then substitute
a shorter bolt, and you should be able to reuse the nut - providing it
is the proer size for the bolt.
Lost your magic stick, eh?
"The possible made impossible."
JOAT
We will never have great leaders as long as we mistake education for
intelligence, ambition for ability, and lack of transgression for
integrity.
- Unknown
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 14:50:40 -0700, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 13:39:41 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Blue wrench.
> whaaaa......?
I think that means "gas wrench"?
I have had the exact same thing happen with 3/8 inch stainless steel bolts
and plastic insert locknuts. The way to prevent this is to lubricate the
threads of the stainless with NEVERSIEZE. In a pinch, I suspect that almost
any grease would allow you to assemble the pieces smoothly.
Dave
"Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:nJg7d.7263$223.4992@edtnps89...
>
No, No, No fellas. Didn't you guys read that he's a professional
magician? All that's necessary is a large scarf to wave
and the special words, Abra Ka Dabra, and whoosh, it's fixed!
Back to reality, I agree the simplest thing might be a hacksaw.
If you can saw it down almost to the threads, you can possibly
take a large chisel and spread the cut so that the rest of the nut
breaks away from the threads or at least will back off with a wrench.
I did something similar last week on my tractor. On it there was a
1" pipe screwed into the manifold. The pipe was once a part of the
muffler itself but it had all wasted away. Using a pipe wrench on
the pipe extending from the manifold, of course the pipe broke off
even with the manifold leaving the rest embedded. I took my
air-powered hacksaw and sawed down through the pipe almost to the
threads. Then a chisel and hammer managed to break through the
remainder of the pipe where I had sawed it. At that point a large
pair of side-cutting pliers was used to grasp and twist the remaining
pipe out of the socket sparing the threads. The new muffler
then screwed right in like it should. Good luck. sdh.
GerryG wrote:
> The plastic insert is normally used only to prevent the nut turning under
> vibration or pressure. Sounds more like you jammed (cross threaded, or wrong
> thread pitch) the threads. As WD-40 didn't work, try lightly heating the nut
> with a torch then, with a box or socket wrench around it, tap lightly and
> repeatedy with a hammer.
>
> If that doesn't work, you could get a nut splitter to remove it, but if the
> threads on the bolt are shot, you might as well use a hacksaw.
> GerryG
>
> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 17:45:55 GMT, "Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Howdy Folks,
>>
>>I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
>>a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
>>(www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
>>perform professionally.
>>
>>Here is my problem: Ive started work on a project that requires a fairly
>>large bolt to go through a 4X4. Anywho, the nuts I am using have the plastic
>>on the inside to make the hold more strong (pardon me, im still elarning all
>>the proper word!). Anyways, when screwing one on, I got it just tight enough
>>that the bolt just broke into the plastic, I realized that the bolts were
>>far to long for what I need. So naturally, I started to take the nut off to
>>replace it with the proper length of bolt.
>>
>>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>>
>>What should I do to remove this?
>>
>>Thank you For your Help!
>>-Aaron
>>
>>--
>
Blue wrench.
Dave
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6Tg7d.169$ea6.154@trndny06...
>
> "Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:nJg7d.7263$223.4992@edtnps89...
>> Howdy Folks,
>>
>
>>
>> What should I do to remove this?
>
> Hack saw
>
Blue Key
Blue Wrench
Hot Key
Hot Wrench
Cutting torch :)
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 13:39:41 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Blue wrench.
>>Dave
>
>
>
> whaaaa......?
"Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:nJg7d.7263$223.4992@edtnps89...
> Howdy Folks,
>
>
> What should I do to remove this?
Hack saw
J. Clarke said:
>Greg G. wrote:
>> Nylon insert lock nuts are usually meant to be used once.
>
>Actually, the MIL-SPEC for them calls for 50 reuses. The all-metal nuts are
>rated for 5 if I recall correctly. There are also some with a Vespel
>insert that are good for 500, and they do achieve that--I remember
>commiserating with the poor tech who got to spend his day turning bolts in
>and out of those nuts.
I seriously doubt that he is using MIL-SPEC fasteners. More likely he
is using Chinese locknuts from the Borg. ;-)
From my experience with the BORG's fasteners, the heads break off
before you can get a normal amount of torque on them...
>This though assumes that the bolt is not burred--if it is burred the burr
>can cut the locking material, effectively destroying it.
This is true.
FWIW,
Greg G.
The plastic insert is normally used only to prevent the nut turning under
vibration or pressure. Sounds more like you jammed (cross threaded, or wrong
thread pitch) the threads. As WD-40 didn't work, try lightly heating the nut
with a torch then, with a box or socket wrench around it, tap lightly and
repeatedy with a hammer.
If that doesn't work, you could get a nut splitter to remove it, but if the
threads on the bolt are shot, you might as well use a hacksaw.
GerryG
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 17:45:55 GMT, "Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Howdy Folks,
>
>I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
>a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
>(www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
>perform professionally.
>
>Here is my problem: Ive started work on a project that requires a fairly
>large bolt to go through a 4X4. Anywho, the nuts I am using have the plastic
>on the inside to make the hold more strong (pardon me, im still elarning all
>the proper word!). Anyways, when screwing one on, I got it just tight enough
>that the bolt just broke into the plastic, I realized that the bolts were
>far to long for what I need. So naturally, I started to take the nut off to
>replace it with the proper length of bolt.
>
>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>
>What should I do to remove this?
>
>Thank you For your Help!
>-Aaron
>
>--
Aaron Fagan wrote:
> Hehehe.
>
> Thank you EVERYONE for the kind welcome. I look forward to communicating
> with all of you on my future difficulties and what not.
>
> Thank you for the advice, I actually decided to just split the piece of wood
> off (The bolts where holding on one of the legs), remove the bolt, and saw
> down the leg. In the end, I only lost about 1.5' off the height.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron
>
Now you'll need to find a new assistant who's 1.5' shorter too.
"Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Dnj7d.2245$N%.2086@edtnps84...
> Hehehe.
>
> Thank you EVERYONE for the kind welcome. I look forward to communicating
> with all of you on my future difficulties and what not.
>
> Thank you for the advice, I actually decided to just split the piece of
> wood
> off (The bolts where holding on one of the legs), remove the bolt, and saw
> down the leg. In the end, I only lost about 1.5' off the height.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron
And thank you for takng the ribbing.
Hehehe.
Thank you EVERYONE for the kind welcome. I look forward to communicating
with all of you on my future difficulties and what not.
Thank you for the advice, I actually decided to just split the piece of wood
off (The bolts where holding on one of the legs), remove the bolt, and saw
down the leg. In the end, I only lost about 1.5' off the height.
Thanks!
Aaron
--
--
http://www.newlinemagic.com
"The Impossible Made Possible."
http://www.PatrickErrins.com
"Calgary's Finest Young Entertainer!"
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 14:10:32 -0400, Greg G. <> wrote:
> Aaron Fagan said:
>
>>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>>
>>What should I do to remove this?
>>
>>Thank you For your Help!
>
> Greetings and Welcome,
>
> Nylon insert lock nuts are usually meant to be used once. The locking
> material deteriorates through multiple uses. As for removing the old
> nut, just cut the shaft of the bolt with a hacksaw. The hardware is
> much cheaper than your labor, right?
>
> In the future, you may want to consider doing your mock-ups with
> regular nuts, and for anything that is to be repeatedly assembled, use
> two nuts jam-nutted together. Easier to remove and cheaper to boot -
> and just as secure if not more so than a nylon insert locking nut.
>
> P.S. - Make sure to use large flat-washers between the heads of the
> screws or/and nuts and wooden material to prevent them from pulling
> into or through the wood.
>
That will work, but I'm not sure it's appropriate for this application.
If someone's going to be walking on this or it matters for safety
reasons, you definitly want either a rated nylon insert or a
threadlocking compound.
This is a case where you KNOW it'll hold X versus the vaguaries of hand
torque.
Of course, if it need not be flown or stood upon, your method will work
just fine :)
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 15:51:48 -0400, Steve Hopper <[email protected]> wrote:
> No, No, No fellas. Didn't you guys read that he's a professional
> magician? All that's necessary is a large scarf to wave
> and the special words, Abra Ka Dabra, and whoosh, it's fixed!
>
I'm told the most effective stage prop any magician has is the
scantily-clad assistant. It keeps your eyes from noticing the things
that are "hidden in plain sight"
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 17:45:55 GMT, "Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I am a professional magician...
>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
"It's levi-OH-sah, not levi-o-SAH." :)
Greg G. wrote:
> Aaron Fagan said:
>
>>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>>
>>What should I do to remove this?
>>
>>Thank you For your Help!
>
> Greetings and Welcome,
>
> Nylon insert lock nuts are usually meant to be used once.
Actually, the MIL-SPEC for them calls for 50 reuses. The all-metal nuts are
rated for 5 if I recall correctly. There are also some with a Vespel
insert that are good for 500, and they do achieve that--I remember
commiserating with the poor tech who got to spend his day turning bolts in
and out of those nuts.
This though assumes that the bolt is not burred--if it is burred the burr
can cut the locking material, effectively destroying it.
> The locking
> material deteriorates through multiple uses. As for removing the old
> nut, just cut the shaft of the bolt with a hacksaw. The hardware is
> much cheaper than your labor, right?
>
> In the future, you may want to consider doing your mock-ups with
> regular nuts, and for anything that is to be repeatedly assembled, use
> two nuts jam-nutted together. Easier to remove and cheaper to boot -
> and just as secure if not more so than a nylon insert locking nut.
>
> P.S. - Make sure to use large flat-washers between the heads of the
> screws or/and nuts and wooden material to prevent them from pulling
> into or through the wood.
This though, does not address the real issue, which is why the nut seized on
the bolt to begin with--the nylon insert should not hold it that
soundly--it sounds to me like there's something else going on there. If
the nuts and bolts are stainless the metal could have seized--we ran into
that problem on some bolts on the P-3 and C-130.
> FWIW,
>
> Greg G.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
[email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 15:51:31 -0400, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Nylon insert lock nuts are usually meant to be used once.
>>
>>Actually, the MIL-SPEC for them calls for 50 reuses. The all-metal nuts
>>are
>>rated for 5 if I recall correctly. There are also some with a Vespel
>>insert that are good for 500, and they do achieve that--I remember
>>commiserating with the poor tech who got to spend his day turning bolts in
>>and out of those nuts.
>
>
> the nyloc ones wear out pretty quickly.
> the ones where the whole of the nut is made of spring steel- and is
> sprung slightly oval- last a long time.
That's a common misconception. When we had a problem with the nylon nuts on
the P-3, the first thing my boss suggested was all-metal nuts. Checked the
Mil-spec and found that they were rated for a much shorter life than the
nylon nuts. Took it to the lab and found out that the spec was right.
Of course this was with mil-spec nuts procured to an MS number. It might be
that the ones that one buys from hardware stores that do not specialize in
MS and aviation-grade fasteners might not last as long.
>>This though, does not address the real issue, which is why the nut seized
>>on the bolt to begin with--the nylon insert should not hold it that
>>soundly--it sounds to me like there's something else going on there.
>
> right. if anything, the nylon should lubricate the bolt a bit.
>
>
>
>
>
>> If
>>the nuts and bolts are stainless the metal could have seized--we ran into
>>that problem on some bolts on the P-3 and C-130.
>
> stainless galling.
Yep. Was a real pain--some genius had designed the thing with flat-head
Allen bolts, which have a little tiny recess compared to regular
socket-head cap screws. So they'd go in all right but trying to get them
out after they'd been torqued the wrench stripped the hole every time and
they had to drill. Fixed it with dry-film lubricant (I forget the brand
now--it was 20 years ago).
>
>
>
>>
>>> FWIW,
>>>
>>> Greg G.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Greg wrote:
>U-CDK_CHARLES\Charles said:
>
>
>
>>>In the future, you may want to consider doing your mock-ups with
>>>regular nuts, and for anything that is to be repeatedly assembled, use
>>>two nuts jam-nutted together. Easier to remove and cheaper to boot -
>>>and just as secure if not more so than a nylon insert locking nut.
>>>
>>>P.S. - Make sure to use large flat-washers between the heads of the
>>>screws or/and nuts and wooden material to prevent them from pulling
>>>into or through the wood.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>That will work, but I'm not sure it's appropriate for this application.
>>
>>If someone's going to be walking on this or it matters for safety
>>reasons, you definitly want either a rated nylon insert or a
>>threadlocking compound.
>>
>>
>
>Double nuts are used in many machinery applications - where the
>vibration and heat ranges they are subjected to far exceed anything a
>stage platform will be subjected to. The rocker arms on your car come
>to mind. On average, each one is subjected to temperatures ranging
>from -10dF to 250dF and slammed over 25 times per second and they
>don't come loose - that's 90,000 times an hour.
>
>
>
>>This is a case where you KNOW it'll hold X versus the vaguaries of hand
>>torque.
>>
>>
>
>But they DO require proper tightening to be effective... I guess if
>you are dependant upon a bunch of drunken carnies's to assemble your
>stage, the nylon lock nuts would be more reliable... ;-)
>
>By the same token, most machinery manufacturers require the
>replacement of said nylon locknuts on each disassembly.
>
>FWIW,
>
>
>Greg G.
>
How about stovers?
loutent said:
>Anyhow, they eventually all came out and the new ones slid in real
>fine. But I swore then never to change my own plugs again - or if I do,
>stick to 25K miles or so.
Ah, forgot the anti-seize, eh?
Had to remove a head on a car bought at auction because of that - and
it *never* came out.
FWIW,
Greg G.
On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 13:39:41 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Blue wrench.
>Dave
whaaaa......?
Aaron Fagan wrote:
> Howdy Folks,
>
> I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
> a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
> (www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
> perform professionally.
>
> Here is my problem: Ive started work on a project that requires a fairly
> large bolt to go through a 4X4. Anywho, the nuts I am using have the plastic
> on the inside to make the hold more strong (pardon me, im still elarning all
> the proper word!). Anyways, when screwing one on, I got it just tight enough
> that the bolt just broke into the plastic, I realized that the bolts were
> far to long for what I need. So naturally, I started to take the nut off to
> replace it with the proper length of bolt.
>
> Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
> two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>
> What should I do to remove this?
>
> Thank you For your Help!
> -Aaron
>
If the bolt is still in decent shape, use the hacksaw to cut off the
excess length.
j4
Aaron Fagan said:
>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>
>What should I do to remove this?
>
>Thank you For your Help!
Greetings and Welcome,
Nylon insert lock nuts are usually meant to be used once. The locking
material deteriorates through multiple uses. As for removing the old
nut, just cut the shaft of the bolt with a hacksaw. The hardware is
much cheaper than your labor, right?
In the future, you may want to consider doing your mock-ups with
regular nuts, and for anything that is to be repeatedly assembled, use
two nuts jam-nutted together. Easier to remove and cheaper to boot -
and just as secure if not more so than a nylon insert locking nut.
P.S. - Make sure to use large flat-washers between the heads of the
screws or/and nuts and wooden material to prevent them from pulling
into or through the wood.
FWIW,
Greg G.
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 17:45:55 GMT, Aaron Fagan <[email protected]> wrote:
> Howdy Folks,
>
> I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
> a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
> (www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
> perform professionally.
>
> Here is my problem: Ive started work on a project that requires a fairly
> large bolt to go through a 4X4. Anywho, the nuts I am using have the plastic
> on the inside to make the hold more strong (pardon me, im still elarning all
> the proper word!). Anyways, when screwing one on, I got it just tight enough
> that the bolt just broke into the plastic, I realized that the bolts were
> far to long for what I need. So naturally, I started to take the nut off to
> replace it with the proper length of bolt.
>
> Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
> two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>
Ah . .scenery.
If it's truly a custom job, you should dry fit with conventional nuts to
make sure you didn't miss any details. You know that now, I'm
guessing.
This is a job for a Sawzall. Cut off the offending bolt. Measure
Twice, cut once, and all that good stuff.
Also, since it's scenery, it doesn't need to withstand close
inspection--indeed close inspection is Death to the illusion, so feel
free to remove and replace any facia elements.
Wouldn't a liquid threadlocker be more appropriate for this application?
Seems you have to maintain the device, right?
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 15:51:31 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Nylon insert lock nuts are usually meant to be used once.
>
>Actually, the MIL-SPEC for them calls for 50 reuses. The all-metal nuts are
>rated for 5 if I recall correctly. There are also some with a Vespel
>insert that are good for 500, and they do achieve that--I remember
>commiserating with the poor tech who got to spend his day turning bolts in
>and out of those nuts.
the nyloc ones wear out pretty quickly.
the ones where the whole of the nut is made of spring steel- and is
sprung slightly oval- last a long time.
>
>This though, does not address the real issue, which is why the nut seized on
>the bolt to begin with--the nylon insert should not hold it that
>soundly--it sounds to me like there's something else going on there.
right. if anything, the nylon should lubricate the bolt a bit.
> If
>the nuts and bolts are stainless the metal could have seized--we ran into
>that problem on some bolts on the P-3 and C-130.
stainless galling.
>
>> FWIW,
>>
>> Greg G.
"Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:nJg7d.7263$223.4992@edtnps89...
> Howdy Folks,
>
> I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I
> am
> a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
> (www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
> perform professionally.
Since no one has mentioned the obvious.
Have you waved you magin wand over it? '~)
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 17:45:55 GMT, "Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>Howdy Folks,
>
>I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
>a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
>
>What should I do to remove this?
Grasp Magic Wand firmly in left hand.
Twirl slowly three times, counterclockwise.
Say "Ala-ka-zaaaaaaaaaam!" real loud.
That should do it!
Oh wait - maybe that's the one for "rabbets".
U-CDK_CHARLES\Charles said:
>> In the future, you may want to consider doing your mock-ups with
>> regular nuts, and for anything that is to be repeatedly assembled, use
>> two nuts jam-nutted together. Easier to remove and cheaper to boot -
>> and just as secure if not more so than a nylon insert locking nut.
>>
>> P.S. - Make sure to use large flat-washers between the heads of the
>> screws or/and nuts and wooden material to prevent them from pulling
>> into or through the wood.
>>
>
>That will work, but I'm not sure it's appropriate for this application.
>
>If someone's going to be walking on this or it matters for safety
>reasons, you definitly want either a rated nylon insert or a
>threadlocking compound.
Double nuts are used in many machinery applications - where the
vibration and heat ranges they are subjected to far exceed anything a
stage platform will be subjected to. The rocker arms on your car come
to mind. On average, each one is subjected to temperatures ranging
from -10dF to 250dF and slammed over 25 times per second and they
don't come loose - that's 90,000 times an hour.
>This is a case where you KNOW it'll hold X versus the vaguaries of hand
>torque.
But they DO require proper tightening to be effective... I guess if
you are dependant upon a bunch of drunken carnies's to assemble your
stage, the nylon lock nuts would be more reliable... ;-)
By the same token, most machinery manufacturers require the
replacement of said nylon locknuts on each disassembly.
FWIW,
Greg G.
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 17:45:55 GMT, "Aaron Fagan" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Howdy Folks,
>
>I am new here, so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Aaron Fagan. I am
>a professional magician and own the company NewLine Magic
>(www.newlinemagic.com), I build custom made magic stage props, as well as
>perform professionally.
>
>Here is my problem: Ive started work on a project that requires a fairly
>large bolt to go through a 4X4. Anywho, the nuts I am using have the plastic
>on the inside to make the hold more strong (pardon me, im still elarning all
>the proper word!). Anyways, when screwing one on, I got it just tight enough
>that the bolt just broke into the plastic, I realized that the bolts were
>far to long for what I need. So naturally, I started to take the nut off to
>replace it with the proper length of bolt.
>
>Long story made short, after lots of heaving, sore knuckles, and a can or
>two of WD-40 later, the nut will not move at all!
>
>What should I do to remove this?
A cheater bar usually works good for me. Slip a bit of pipe over your
wrench, and use the extra leverage to torque the sucker off. That's
assuming you don't want to go the hacksaw route.