I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
wood vise... (39 bucks newly listed off ebay) After a little
cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm very
happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. I
think I'm gonna like this thing. Only problem, the jaws are very
slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
always been that way.
I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing the
vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
screws holding the pads in place. Would anyone in here have any
recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish this?
On Jan 28, 3:29=A0pm, Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote:
> Marty <[email protected]> wrote:
> >EPILOGUE...
> >If anybody's curious about how this thing came out, I picked around
> >the racks at Ace Hardware and picked up a tube of Devcon's "Metal
> >Patch & Fill Compound."with a claimed PSI strength of 125 lbs. per sq.
> >in. =A0After cleaning off the inside of the front face of the vise with
> >Gunscrubber to degrease it, and then slathering Vaseline on anything I
> >didn't want to get gummed up, I squeezed out a mess of the Devcon
> >stuff on the surface of the wood pad, ALMOST screwed it into place
> >with the two screws out of the way into their countersunk holes but
> >not tight, and then lightly closed the vise. =A0I clamped the two wooden
> >pads to keep them tight together, and then left the whole thing alone
> >for a couple of days... =A0It's winter here, and my workbench is doing
> >good to reach 50 degrees F. =A0Tonight, I went down and opened the vise,
> >tightened the screws in the pad, and cranked the vise down of a length
> >of 2x4. =A0 Perfect. =A0:) =A0The board was held evenly and firmly for i=
t's
> >full length in both horizontal and vertical positions. =A0Due to the
> >temperature down there, I'm going to give things longer to cure before
> >really cranking down hard on anything, but I'm happy. =A0:)
>
> >Marty
>
> Glad it worked. =A0I'm even more glad you posted the resolution of your
> problem. Too often questions are raised here and never answered.
Thanks Larry. I think this thing worked out pretty well. Obviously,
how this works long-term may still be up in the air, but it's a cheap,
simple solution, and even if the material eventually failed, it could
easily be reversed by sanding or chipping it out and trying something
else.
=20
Marty
On Jan 24, 8:07=A0pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]=
.com>,
>
>
>
> Marty =A0<[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Jan 24, 9:15=A0am, willshak <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Marty wrote the following:
>
> >> > I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
> >> > wood vise... =A0(39 bucks newly listed off ebay) =A0After a little
> >> > cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm ver=
y
> >> > happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. =
=A0I
> >> > think I'm gonna like this thing. =A0Only problem, the jaws are very
> >> > slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
> >> > always been that way.
> >> > I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
> >> > HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing t=
he
> >> > vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
> >> > screws holding the pads in place. =A0Would anyone in here have any
> >> > recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish th=
is?
>
> >> Disclaimer: I know nothing about that vise.
> >> How are those 2 steel shafts connected to the cast outer jaw? Are they
> >> screwed in?
> >> If so, perhaps one shaft has unscrewed a little?
>
> >> --
>
> >> Bill
> >> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> >> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
> >> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>
> >Good question Bill. =A0I went down and twisted around a bit, and however
> >the shafts are connected, they seem tight. =A0Everything is solid now,
> >but I suspect that over the years, the vise has yielded a bit to heavy
> >use... the corners of the "L" touch at the same time, but the "corner"
> >is very slightly open. =A0It'd work OK, but being a picky old coot, I'll
> >probably try the construction adhesive route... =A0maybe check and see
> >if the local John Deere dealer has some goop that might work good...
>
> >Thanks, guys
>
> Before installing the tapered or shimmed vice pads, try putting a solid
> block of something in the vise that only touches the side that is
> closing first. Then crank down on the vise hard. You may be able to
> straighten it out.
>
> --
> =A0 =A0 There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
> =A0 =A0 plausible, and wrong." =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0(H L Mencken)
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonesta=
r. org
That might work Larry, but there's not much in the open side to the
"L" to crank down on... Maybe a little brute force would be a logical
thing to try though...
I like your Mencken quote... My personal philosophical equivalent of
that is "Nothing is as simple as another person's problems." :)
Marty
On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 13:50:53 -0800 (PST), Marty
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
>wood vise... (39 bucks newly listed off ebay) After a little
>cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm very
>happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. I
>think I'm gonna like this thing. Only problem, the jaws are very
>slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
>always been that way.
Are you sure the vise wasn't constructed this way on purpose, so that
as the vise is tightened down the vise jaws will come into parallel?
If that is the case, then the fix you are thinking of is counter
productive.
>I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
>HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing the
>vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
>screws holding the pads in place. Would anyone in here have any
>recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish this?
I'd think something with a little bit of elasticity in it so the
adhesive doesn't crack and eventually fall out. Maybe construction
adhesive or 15 minute epoxy?
On Jan 24, 9:15=A0am, willshak <[email protected]> wrote:
> Marty wrote the following:
>
> > I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
> > wood vise... =A0(39 bucks newly listed off ebay) =A0After a little
> > cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm very
> > happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. =A0I
> > think I'm gonna like this thing. =A0Only problem, the jaws are very
> > slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
> > always been that way.
> > I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
> > HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing the
> > vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
> > screws holding the pads in place. =A0Would anyone in here have any
> > recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish this?
>
> Disclaimer: I know nothing about that vise.
> How are those 2 steel shafts connected to the cast outer jaw? Are they
> screwed in?
> If so, perhaps one shaft has unscrewed a little?
>
> --
>
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Good question Bill. I went down and twisted around a bit, and however
the shafts are connected, they seem tight. Everything is solid now,
but I suspect that over the years, the vise has yielded a bit to heavy
use... the corners of the "L" touch at the same time, but the "corner"
is very slightly open. It'd work OK, but being a picky old coot, I'll
probably try the construction adhesive route... maybe check and see
if the local John Deere dealer has some goop that might work good...
=20
Thanks, guys
"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article
> <100ddce4-5687-479a-96e7-95d64693080a@h17g2000pre.googlegroups.com>,
> Marty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On Jan 24, 8:07 pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> <...snipped...>
>>That might work Larry, but there's not much in the open side to the
>>"L" to crank down on... Maybe a little brute force would be a logical
>>thing to try though...
>>I like your Mencken quote... My personal philosophical equivalent of
>>that is "Nothing is as simple as another person's problems." :)
>> Marty
>
>
> You'd probably also like this one, I believe also from Mencken:
>
> "Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself."
This sounds like a Boeing engineer. Or, as a co worker used to say: How to
make an airplane expensive.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article
> > <100ddce4-5687-479a-96e7-95d64693080a@h17g2000pre.googlegroups.com>,
> > Marty <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>On Jan 24, 8:07 pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> > <...snipped...>
> >>That might work Larry, but there's not much in the open side to the
> >>"L" to crank down on... Maybe a little brute force would be a logical
> >>thing to try though...
> >>I like your Mencken quote... My personal philosophical equivalent of
> >>that is "Nothing is as simple as another person's problems." :)
> >> Marty
> >
> >
> > You'd probably also like this one, I believe also from Mencken:
> >
> > "Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself."
>
> This sounds like a Boeing engineer. Or, as a co worker used to say: How to
> make an airplane expensive.
CEO of a company I used to work for was like that. Expected a bunch of
parachute experts to design railguns and robotic hands and was angry at
their "defeatist attitude". Also expected us to "wander around" major
defense contractors and see what we could learn. The day he "wandered
around" Boeing Missiles and Space and got walked out by security (after
a debate over whether to charge him with espionage) we had a party.
Marty wrote the following:
> I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
> wood vise... (39 bucks newly listed off ebay) After a little
> cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm very
> happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. I
> think I'm gonna like this thing. Only problem, the jaws are very
> slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
> always been that way.
> I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
> HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing the
> vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
> screws holding the pads in place. Would anyone in here have any
> recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish this?
>
Disclaimer: I know nothing about that vise.
How are those 2 steel shafts connected to the cast outer jaw? Are they
screwed in?
If so, perhaps one shaft has unscrewed a little?
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Thanks for the help guys... :)
I was wondering if the vise was made to flex, but it seems pretty
rigid when I crank it down hard. With the angle design, any flexing
would have to work in two directions. The uneveness is small, but I'm
kinda anal about such things.
The vise is seven inches wide, and I'm using pads made from 3/4 inch
thick plywood extending about an inch beyond the edges of the vise.
That's kinda thick, but I won't be needing the nine or ten inches the
vise opens to. When I got it, there was some kind of hard adhesive or
something inside the jaws, so I figure the last owner may have done
something similar to what I'm planning. Probably I'll go with the
construction adhesive idea unless something else comes up, like a
recommendation for "Elmer's Vise Evener" or something. :)
Thanks again!
EPILOGUE...
If anybody's curious about how this thing came out, I picked around
the racks at Ace Hardware and picked up a tube of Devcon's "Metal
Patch & Fill Compound."with a claimed PSI strength of 125 lbs. per sq.
in. After cleaning off the inside of the front face of the vise with
Gunscrubber to degrease it, and then slathering Vaseline on anything I
didn't want to get gummed up, I squeezed out a mess of the Devcon
stuff on the surface of the wood pad, ALMOST screwed it into place
with the two screws out of the way into their countersunk holes but
not tight, and then lightly closed the vise. I clamped the two wooden
pads to keep them tight together, and then left the whole thing alone
for a couple of days... It's winter here, and my workbench is doing
good to reach 50 degrees F. Tonight, I went down and opened the vise,
tightened the screws in the pad, and cranked the vise down of a length
of 2x4. Perfect. :) The board was held evenly and firmly for it's
full length in both horizontal and vertical positions. Due to the
temperature down there, I'm going to give things longer to cure before
really cranking down hard on anything, but I'm happy. :)
Marty
On Jan 24, 8:31=A0pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]=
.com>,
>
> Marty =A0<[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Jan 24, 8:07=A0pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> <...snipped...>
> >That might work Larry, but there's not much in the open side to the
> >"L" to crank down on... =A0Maybe a little brute force would be a logical
> >thing to try though...
> >I like your Mencken quote... =A0My personal philosophical equivalent of
> >that is "Nothing is as simple as another person's problems." :)
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0=
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Marty
>
> You'd probably also like this one, I believe also from Mencken:
>
> "Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself."
>
> --
> =A0 =A0 There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
> =A0 =A0 plausible, and wrong." =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0(H L Mencken)
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonesta=
r. org
You'd probably also like this one, I believe also from Mencken:
"Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it
himself."
Yup. I do!
Marty
In article <4bf4d171-ad17-4a6d-bc8e-63a1b581bd43@i22g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,
Marty <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Jan 24, 9:15 am, willshak <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Marty wrote the following:
>>
>> > I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
>> > wood vise... (39 bucks newly listed off ebay) After a little
>> > cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm very
>> > happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. I
>> > think I'm gonna like this thing. Only problem, the jaws are very
>> > slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
>> > always been that way.
>> > I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
>> > HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing the
>> > vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
>> > screws holding the pads in place. Would anyone in here have any
>> > recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish this?
>>
>> Disclaimer: I know nothing about that vise.
>> How are those 2 steel shafts connected to the cast outer jaw? Are they
>> screwed in?
>> If so, perhaps one shaft has unscrewed a little?
>>
>> --
>>
>> Bill
>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>
>Good question Bill. I went down and twisted around a bit, and however
>the shafts are connected, they seem tight. Everything is solid now,
>but I suspect that over the years, the vise has yielded a bit to heavy
>use... the corners of the "L" touch at the same time, but the "corner"
>is very slightly open. It'd work OK, but being a picky old coot, I'll
>probably try the construction adhesive route... maybe check and see
>if the local John Deere dealer has some goop that might work good...
>
>Thanks, guys
Before installing the tapered or shimmed vice pads, try putting a solid
block of something in the vise that only touches the side that is
closing first. Then crank down on the vise hard. You may be able to
straighten it out.
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
In article <100ddce4-5687-479a-96e7-95d64693080a@h17g2000pre.googlegroups.com>,
Marty <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Jan 24, 8:07 pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
<...snipped...>
>That might work Larry, but there's not much in the open side to the
>"L" to crank down on... Maybe a little brute force would be a logical
>thing to try though...
>I like your Mencken quote... My personal philosophical equivalent of
>that is "Nothing is as simple as another person's problems." :)
> Marty
You'd probably also like this one, I believe also from Mencken:
"Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself."
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Marty <[email protected]> wrote:
>EPILOGUE...
>If anybody's curious about how this thing came out, I picked around
>the racks at Ace Hardware and picked up a tube of Devcon's "Metal
>Patch & Fill Compound."with a claimed PSI strength of 125 lbs. per sq.
>in. After cleaning off the inside of the front face of the vise with
>Gunscrubber to degrease it, and then slathering Vaseline on anything I
>didn't want to get gummed up, I squeezed out a mess of the Devcon
>stuff on the surface of the wood pad, ALMOST screwed it into place
>with the two screws out of the way into their countersunk holes but
>not tight, and then lightly closed the vise. I clamped the two wooden
>pads to keep them tight together, and then left the whole thing alone
>for a couple of days... It's winter here, and my workbench is doing
>good to reach 50 degrees F. Tonight, I went down and opened the vise,
>tightened the screws in the pad, and cranked the vise down of a length
>of 2x4. Perfect. :) The board was held evenly and firmly for it's
>full length in both horizontal and vertical positions. Due to the
>temperature down there, I'm going to give things longer to cure before
>really cranking down hard on anything, but I'm happy. :)
>
>Marty
Glad it worked. I'm even more glad you posted the resolution of your
problem. Too often questions are raised here and never answered.
On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 13:50:53 -0800 (PST), Marty
<[email protected]> wrote:
I always use wood jaw pads, usually about 1/2" thick....
Could you make a set that was tapered a bit to offset the
misalignment?
>I recently picked up an old, used, Wilton "L" shaped quick release
>wood vise... (39 bucks newly listed off ebay) After a little
>cobbling around, I've got the thing mounted on my bench, and I'm very
>happy... It's very solid and heavy, but it works smooth and easy. I
>think I'm gonna like this thing. Only problem, the jaws are very
>slightly out of parallel with each other, and it appears they've
>always been that way.
>I'm figuring that I can correct this defect by gooshing some type of
>HARD setting adhesive or something behind one of the pads, closing the
>vise, and allowing it to harden before finally tightening down the
>screws holding the pads in place. Would anyone in here have any
>recommendations of what type of product I could buy to accomplish this?