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I got a local junk shop that has an old Stanley #5 for $28, the lever
cap does not have a kidney shaped hole, the adjustment knob is=20
plastic or bakelight, wooden tote and knob and seemingly a light=20
iron casting, not heavy like the WWII era ones. This one seems=20
narrower side to side than a type 19 and no thicker casting ridge
at the toe and heel. All parts are there, no cracks in the metal and=20
about 60-70% japanning, anyone offer me an opinion if it's worth=20
buying at this price?
Alex
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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I got a local junk shop that has an old Stanley =
#5 for=20
$28, the lever</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>cap does not have a kidney shaped =
hole, the=20
adjustment knob is </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>plastic or bakelight, </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>wooden tote=20
and knob and seemingly a light </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>iron casting, not heavy </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>like=20
the WWII era ones. This one seems </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>narrower side to side than </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>a type=20
19 and no thicker casting ridge</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>at the toe and heel. </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>All parts are=20
there, no cracks </FONT><FONT face=3DArial>in the metal and =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>about 60-70% </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>japanning,=20
anyone offer me an opinion if it's </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>worth=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>buying at this price?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Alex</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
> Another one is going up in a couple hours. It's at $10.49 now,
> but it appears to be missing the cap iron/chip breaker.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117578855
I just had my type11 5-1/2 delivered. $89 incl shipping. It's a heavy sob.
Prolly make a good user too. NOT!
SH
AArDvarK wrote:
>
> I got a local junk shop that has an old Stanley #5 for $28, the lever
> cap does not have a kidney shaped hole, the adjustment knob is
> plastic or bakelight,
I've seen brass adjustment knobs wear to excessively slack. You
expect better from plastic?
> wooden tote and knob and seemingly a light
Seller lost me right there.
> iron casting, not heavy like the WWII era ones. This one seems
> narrower side to side than a type 19 and no thicker casting ridge
> at the toe and heel.
Frankenplane.
> All parts are there, no cracks in the metal and
> about 60-70% japanning, anyone offer me an opinion if it's worth
> buying at this price?
$15.00 will get you an older and better #5, curable rust, 90%
or better japanning.
Sounds like a plane made up of different parts. Check out Patrick's
Blood and Gore,[ http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm ] but
its my understanding that a Bakelite screw knob is WWII vintgage, but
to be correct the lever cap would have the kidney shaped hole. The
wooden tote and front knob, if WWII, would be made of painted or
stained hardwood, and not Rosewood. Does it have a "low" front knob,
or a "high" one, and is there a ring on the casting within which the
fron knob fits? Generally, low knobs come with lever caps that have
the keyhole, rather than the kidney shaped hole, but not always.
Check to see if there is a frog adjustment screw below the Bakelite
adjusting knob, if so, then its not WWII. You are correct the
castings on WWII planes are thicker, and you generally see a less
polished milling of the sides of these planes. I think there are some
uncorrect parts on this plane and it is likely a tad overpriced for
what it is. My first couple of old plane purchases were like this, and
now I avoid them as I know better. If you keep your eyes open at fleas
and garage sales, 5's are pretty common and can be gotten for $20 or
oftentimes less, depending on condition.
As to someone's comment about WWII not being good users, well, they
are if properly tuned. I've also never had a bakelite knob go bad
either.
Mutt.
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<y951d.83698$yh.68614@fed1read05>...
> I got a local junk shop that has an old Stanley #5 for $28, the lever
> cap does not have a kidney shaped hole, the adjustment knob is
> plastic or bakelight, wooden tote and knob and seemingly a light
> iron casting, not heavy like the WWII era ones. This one seems
> narrower side to side than a type 19 and no thicker casting ridge
> at the toe and heel. All parts are there, no cracks in the metal and
> about 60-70% japanning, anyone offer me an opinion if it's worth
> buying at this price?
>
> Alex
> --
On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:42:29 -0700, "AArDvarK" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>the adjustment knob is plastic or bakelight,
I'll buy anything with a brass knob. Plastic, fibre or aluminium can
sit there.
--
Smert' spamionam
patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> qwertyuiop'd:
>
> Not being quite in O'Deen's class, I doubt I could get good use from an #8.
> A #7 has been promised to me, when a relative finally cleans out his
> basement workshop. He swears he has three of them, but they haven't been
> seen for some time....
A numbah 8 isn't just for those of us who can balance one on our
galootish fingertips. If your bench is at the proper height, and the
sole is waxed-up properlike, you'll find the extra mass of a #8 (not
to mention the wider blade) to be more boon than bane. Myself, I keep
my type 5 #8 (a pretty darned old 24" jointer plane, Jeff) set to a
very fine cut, and use it for final truing of an edge or the face of a
board. The bulk of the rough work is done with a jack plane or a fore
plane.
A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
garage ;o).
Humbly submitted,
O'Deen
>A numbah 8 isn't just for those of us who can balance one on our
>galootish fingertips. If your bench is at the proper height, and the
>sole is waxed-up properlike, you'll find the extra mass of a #8 (not
>to mention the wider blade) to be more boon than bane. Myself, I keep
>my type 5 #8 (a pretty darned old 24" jointer plane, Jeff) set to a
>very fine cut, and use it for final truing of an edge or the face of a
>board. The bulk of the rough work is done with a jack plane or a fore
>plane.
>
>A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
>garage ;o).
>
>Humbly submitted,
>O'Deen
I agree with O'Deen. A couple of moths ago I came across an 80% off bin at
Woodcraft. There in the bin was a Hock blade that looked to my untrained eye to
be the right size for my Miller Falls #18 (a Stanley #6 clone). So I bought it
for all of $8 or $9. Got it home and it was too wide - it was for a number 8.
What to do, what to do. Went to ebay and found a nice older 8C that was in
great shape except for that hole drilled through the sole at the back end (to
hang it on the wall I guess). $50 and it came home. So now I have $59 +/- in a
nice #8C with a Hock blade (not to mention a real nice older Stanley blade for
a spare) and that thing can cut finer full length, full width shavings than any
other plane I own. I think stories I had read about O'Deen and seeing him
holding that #8 of his on the Blood & Guts page was the inspiration that made
me buy the plane on ebay rather than sell the blade on ebay.
Dave Hall
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I didn't mean "new" I simply meant new"er". The plastic knob, =
lightweight casting (possibly aluminum?), etc. just sound like =
less-than-desirable features, and you can easily find cast iron, =
well-made stanleys for similar, if not better, prices.
Mike
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:Yy61d.83892$yh.38150@fed1read05...
absolutely not. I paid $35 for a #5 type 15 with all original parts =
and completely intact tote and knob on ebay. the plane your guy has =
sounds like a later model piece of crud and probably shouldn't get more =
than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, mind you, but I've bought about 10 planes =
on ebay and never paid more than $65 - and that was for a sweet Type 11 =
#7.
It's not newer at all, really old!
Alex
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I didn't mean "new" I simply meant =
new"er". =20
The plastic knob, lightweight casting (possibly aluminum?), etc. just =
sound like=20
less-than-desirable features, and you can easily find cast iron, =
well-made=20
stanleys for similar, if not better, prices.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV>"AArDvarK" <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email protected]">[email protected]</A>> wrote in =
message <A=20
=
href=3D"news:Yy61d.83892$yh.38150@fed1read05">news:Yy61d.83892$yh.38150@f=
ed1read05</A>...</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>absolutely not. I paid $35 =
for a #5 type=20
15 with all original parts and completely intact tote and knob on=20
ebay. the plane your guy has sounds like a later model piece =
of crud=20
and probably shouldn't get more than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, =
mind=20
you, but I've bought about 10 planes on ebay and never paid more =
than $65 -=20
and that was for a sweet Type 11 #7.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It's not newer at all, really =
old!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Alex</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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absolutely not. I paid $35 for a #5 type 15 with all original parts and =
completely intact tote and knob on ebay. the plane your guy has sounds =
like a later model piece of crud and probably shouldn't get more than =
$10, IMO. I'm no expert, mind you, but I've bought about 10 planes on =
ebay and never paid more than $65 - and that was for a sweet Type 11 #7.
Mike
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:y951d.83698$yh.68614@fed1read05...
I got a local junk shop that has an old Stanley #5 for $28, the lever
cap does not have a kidney shaped hole, the adjustment knob is=20
plastic or bakelight, wooden tote and knob and seemingly a light=20
iron casting, not heavy like the WWII era ones. This one seems=20
narrower side to side than a type 19 and no thicker casting ridge
at the toe and heel. All parts are there, no cracks in the metal and=20
about 60-70% japanning, anyone offer me an opinion if it's worth=20
buying at this price?
Alex
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<BODY bgColor=3D#f2f2f2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>absolutely not. I paid $35 for a =
#5 type 15=20
with all original parts and completely intact tote and knob on =
ebay. the=20
plane your guy has sounds like a later model piece of crud and probably=20
shouldn't get more than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, mind you, but =
I've bought=20
about 10 planes on ebay and never paid more than $65 - and that was for =
a sweet=20
Type 11 #7.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV>"AArDvarK" <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email protected]">[email protected]</A>> wrote in =
message <A=20
=
href=3D"news:y951d.83698$yh.68614@fed1read05">news:y951d.83698$yh.68614@f=
ed1read05</A>...</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I got a local junk shop that has an old =
Stanley #5 for=20
$28, the lever</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>cap does not have a kidney shaped =
hole, the=20
adjustment knob is </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>plastic or bakelight, </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>wooden=20
tote and knob and seemingly a light </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>iron casting, not heavy </FONT><FONT=20
face=3DArial>like the WWII era ones. This one seems </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>narrower side to side than </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>a=20
type 19 and no thicker casting ridge</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>at the toe and heel. </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>All parts=20
are there, no cracks </FONT><FONT face=3DArial>in the metal and =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>about 60-70% </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>japanning,=20
anyone offer me an opinion if it's </FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial>worth=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>buying at this price?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Alex</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C49903.3F419230--
I thank everyone for their input, I really appreciate the help. I bought this
one no one else would bid for, it is a Stanley #5 of older type but it has a
later lever cap with the kidney hole. Good enough as a user, it's got all
the parts and even Magpie's brass adjustment knob too! Again thanks to all.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6117398096
Also this sweet Stanley #110, awesome condition:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6117608116
just got it [9-13-04].
Thanks again everyone,
Alex
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If it has a plastic or bakelite knob, I think you're looking at a WWII =
vintage. Not the best users, from my experience.
-jbb
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:Yy61d.83892$yh.38150@fed1read05...
absolutely not. I paid $35 for a #5 type 15 with all original parts =
and completely intact tote and knob on ebay. the plane your guy has =
sounds like a later model piece of crud and probably shouldn't get more =
than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, mind you, but I've bought about 10 planes =
on ebay and never paid more than $65 - and that was for a sweet Type 11 =
#7.
It's not newer at all, really old!
Alex
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<BODY bgColor=3D#f2f2f2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>If it has a plastic or bakelite knob, I =
think=20
you're looking at a WWII vintage. Not the best users, from my=20
experience.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-jbb</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV>"AArDvarK" <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email protected]">[email protected]</A>> wrote in =
message <A=20
=
href=3D"news:Yy61d.83892$yh.38150@fed1read05">news:Yy61d.83892$yh.38150@f=
ed1read05</A>...</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>absolutely not. I paid $35 =
for a #5 type=20
15 with all original parts and completely intact tote and knob on=20
ebay. the plane your guy has sounds like a later model piece =
of crud=20
and probably shouldn't get more than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, =
mind=20
you, but I've bought about 10 planes on ebay and never paid more =
than $65 -=20
and that was for a sweet Type 11 #7.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It's not newer at all, really =
old!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Alex</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C49907.2F9E49A0--
[email protected] (Fred the Red Shirt) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
> Patrick Leach doesn't care for the #6 and so rates it poorly on his
> webpages. I think this has supressed the market price of the #6 by
> $10 - $20 making it easier to get a good buy on a #6 than on any
> other plane.
>
That said, he occaisionally comes across a good one, and sells it to his
customers. I'm quite fond of the one I bought from him last year.
Not being quite in O'Deen's class, I doubt I could get good use from an #8.
A #7 has been promised to me, when a relative finally cleans out his
basement workshop. He swears he has three of them, but they haven't been
seen for some time....
Patriarch
[email protected] (Patrick Olguin) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> qwertyuiop'd:
>>
>> Not being quite in O'Deen's class, I doubt I could get good use from
>> an #8. A #7 has been promised to me, when a relative finally cleans
>> out his basement workshop. He swears he has three of them, but they
>> haven't been seen for some time....
>
> A numbah 8 isn't just for those of us who can balance one on our
> galootish fingertips. If your bench is at the proper height, and the
> sole is waxed-up properlike, you'll find the extra mass of a #8 (not
> to mention the wider blade) to be more boon than bane. Myself, I keep
> my type 5 #8 (a pretty darned old 24" jointer plane, Jeff) set to a
> very fine cut, and use it for final truing of an edge or the face of a
> board. The bulk of the rough work is done with a jack plane or a fore
> plane.
>
> A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
> garage ;o).
>
> Humbly submitted,
> O'Deen
>
You do make it sound tempting... Maybe an email to the Merchant of Ashby
is in order.
A #ANYTHING is worth planes lurking unused in some relative's garage.
Patriarch
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
>>>garage ;o).
>>>
>>>Humbly submitted,
>>>O'Deen
>>>
>>
>>
>> You do make it sound tempting... Maybe an email to the Merchant of
>> Ashby is in order.
>>
>> A #ANYTHING is worth planes lurking unused in some relative's garage.
>>
>> Patriarch
>
> Well, this month's list, from 6 Sept , included:
> ST24 #8 jointer; a ca.1895 example, with all original parts,
> including full length iron; no damage to the rosewood,
> 95% japanning; great worker that only needs to be
> honed to start peeling off shavings; 24" of mean,
> wood-eating metal. $165.00
>
> and he alsways has a few items he doesn't put on the list.
> Joe
That's true, Joe. The following already has arrived from that list:
> > ST19 #4 1/2 oversized smoothing plane; a type 7 with all
> > original parts; a good clean worker that only needs a
> > honing to be put back to work, with 98% japanning and
> > good rosewood; dates to ca.1905, there is a pinhead
> > size bruise to the back of the mouth that has absolutely
> > no effect on the planing (the bevel of the iron never
> > makes contact there. $110.00
The #4, #6 and #78 in my cabinet are non-list purchases. Sweet tools, all.
Patriarch
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absolutely not. I paid $35 for a #5 type 15 with all original parts =
and completely intact tote and knob on ebay. the plane your guy has =
sounds like a later model piece of crud and probably shouldn't get more =
than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, mind you, but I've bought about 10 planes =
on ebay and never paid more than $65 - and that was for a sweet Type 11 =
#7.
It's not newer at all, really old!
Alex
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>absolutely not. I paid $35 for =
a #5 type 15=20
with all original parts and completely intact tote and knob on =
ebay. the=20
plane your guy has sounds like a later model piece of crud and =
probably=20
shouldn't get more than $10, IMO. I'm no expert, mind you, but =
I've=20
bought about 10 planes on ebay and never paid more than $65 - and that =
was for=20
a sweet Type 11 #7.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It's not newer at all, really =
old!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Alex</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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> I just now won an *b*y auction, a Stanley #6 for $15.49.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117474282
> </gloat> (Yes, it may require a new iron shortly.)
I saw that one last night! The place to buy a new tote is "the museum"
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/ congrats on it.
> Another one is going up in a couple hours. It's at $10.49 now,
> but it appears to be missing the cap iron/chip breaker.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117578855
No, the cap iron is on there, the assembly is mounted up-side down under
the lever cap.
Alex
On 16 Sep 2004 11:34:38 -0700, [email protected] (Patrick Olguin)
wrote:
>If your bench is at the proper height, and the
>sole is waxed-up properlike, you'll find the extra mass of a #8 (not
>to mention the wider blade) to be more boon than bane.
I have a short bench and the workshop isn't much bigger. By the time
I've got my #8 up to speed, I have to hit the brakes to stop it flying
out through the end door.
I like my #6 though 8-)
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:42:29 -0700, "AArDvarK" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>the adjustment knob is plastic or bakelight,
>
>
> I'll buy anything with a brass knob. Plastic, fibre or aluminium can
> sit there.
Then you would have missed out on my type 17 #6, which is my
favorite older Stanley. :-)
I was skeptical at first too when I saw the knob, but it doesn't
affect it in use in the slightest, and I love the WWII-era heavy casting.
Chuck Vance
Sorry for following up my own post, but I forgot to add that given
the light casting and other anamolies described by the original poster,
I wouldn't pay what the seller was asking for. It sounds too much like
a plane cobbled together with parts from different planes.
You should be able to get an all-original-parts #5 from prior to
WWII for less than $30.
Chuck Vance
patriarch < wrote:
> [email protected] (Patrick Olguin) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> qwertyuiop'd:
>>
>>>Not being quite in O'Deen's class, I doubt I could get good use from
>>>an #8. A #7 has been promised to me, when a relative finally cleans
>>>out his basement workshop. He swears he has three of them, but they
>>>haven't been seen for some time....
>>
>>A numbah 8 isn't just for those of us who can balance one on our
>>galootish fingertips. If your bench is at the proper height, and the
>>sole is waxed-up properlike, you'll find the extra mass of a #8 (not
>>to mention the wider blade) to be more boon than bane. Myself, I keep
>>my type 5 #8 (a pretty darned old 24" jointer plane, Jeff) set to a
>>very fine cut, and use it for final truing of an edge or the face of a
>>board. The bulk of the rough work is done with a jack plane or a fore
>>plane.
>>
>>A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
>>garage ;o).
>>
>>Humbly submitted,
>>O'Deen
>>
>
>
> You do make it sound tempting... Maybe an email to the Merchant of Ashby
> is in order.
>
> A #ANYTHING is worth planes lurking unused in some relative's garage.
>
> Patriarch
Well, this month's list, from 6 Sept , included:
ST24 #8 jointer; a ca.1895 example, with all original parts,
including full length iron; no damage to the rosewood,
95% japanning; great worker that only needs to be
honed to start peeling off shavings; 24" of mean,
wood-eating metal. $165.00
and he alsways has a few items he doesn't put on the list.
Joe
Mike wrote:
> Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>patriarch < wrote:
>>
>>
>>>[email protected] (Patrick Olguin) wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>>>patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> qwertyuiop'd:
>>>>
>>>>A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
>>>>garage ;o).
>>>>
>>>>Humbly submitted,
>>>>O'Deen
>
>
>
>>>You do make it sound tempting... Maybe an email to the Merchant of Ashby
>>>is in order.
>
>
>
>>>Patriarch
>>
>>Well, this month's list, from 6 Sept , included:
>> ST24 #8 jointer; a ca.1895 example, with all original parts,
>> including full length iron; no damage to the rosewood,
>> 95% japanning; great worker that only needs to be
>> honed to start peeling off shavings; 24" of mean,
>> wood-eating metal. $165.00
>>
>>and he alsways has a few items he doesn't put on the list.
>>Joe
>
>
> Or here for $115: http://www.sydnassloot.com/P14.HTM
>
> Cheers,
> Mike
Bookmarked for future purchasees.
thanks,
Joe
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 07:06:45 -0500, Conan the Librarian
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>
> Sorry for following up my own post, but I forgot to add that given
>the light casting and other anamolies described by the original poster,
>I wouldn't pay what the seller was asking for. It sounds too much like
>a plane cobbled together with parts from different planes.
>
> You should be able to get an all-original-parts #5 from prior to
>WWII for less than $30.
I just now won an *b*y auction, a Stanley #6 for $15.49.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117474282
</gloat> (Yes, it may require a new iron shortly.)
Another one is going up in a couple hours. It's at $10.49 now,
but it appears to be missing the cap iron/chip breaker.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117578855
-------------------------------------------------------
Have you read the new book "What Would Machiavelli Do?"
----------------------------
http://diversify.com Dynamic, Interactive Websites!
--------------------------------------------------------
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> patriarch < wrote:
>
> > [email protected] (Patrick Olguin) wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
> >>patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> qwertyuiop'd:
> >>
> >>A #8 in hand is easily worth three #7's lurking in some relative's
> >>garage ;o).
> >>
> >>Humbly submitted,
> >>O'Deen
> > You do make it sound tempting... Maybe an email to the Merchant of Ashby
> > is in order.
> > Patriarch
>
> Well, this month's list, from 6 Sept , included:
> ST24 #8 jointer; a ca.1895 example, with all original parts,
> including full length iron; no damage to the rosewood,
> 95% japanning; great worker that only needs to be
> honed to start peeling off shavings; 24" of mean,
> wood-eating metal. $165.00
>
> and he alsways has a few items he doesn't put on the list.
> Joe
Or here for $115: http://www.sydnassloot.com/P14.HTM
Cheers,
Mike
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Mike wrote:
>
> > Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> >
> >
> > Or here for $115: http://www.sydnassloot.com/P14.HTM
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Mike
>
>
> Bookmarked for future purchasees.
Sandy (the proprietor) is a good guy to deal with and really knows old
tools (check out his bit brace collection/page). IMO, his prices are
the best of all of the internet dealers; not as good as finding
25-cent planes in the wild but still pretty reasonable. No
affiliation, yadda, yadda; just a satisfied customer.
Cheers,
Mike
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I didn't mean "new" I simply meant new"er". The plastic knob,
> lightweight casting (possibly aluminum?), etc. just sound like
> less-than-desirable features, and you can easily find cast iron,
> well-made stanleys for similar, if not better, prices.
>
If it's a Stanley and the casting is Aluminum then it's a steal
at that price because the Aluminum Stanleys are colectibles.
The combination of the non-metallic adjustment knob with the
non-kidney shaped hole in th elever cap sounds like a Frankenplane,
assembled form pieces of different planes from different eras.
--
FF
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 07:06:45 -0500, Conan the Librarian
> <[email protected]> calmly ranted:
> ...
> >
> > You should be able to get an all-original-parts #5 from prior to
> >WWII for less than $30.
>
> I just now won an *b*y auction, a Stanley #6 for $15.49.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117474282
> </gloat> (Yes, it may require a new iron shortly.)
>
> Another one is going up in a couple hours. It's at $10.49 now,
> but it appears to be missing the cap iron/chip breaker.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6117578855
>
Patrick Leach doesn't care for the #6 and so rates it poorly on his
webpages. I think this has supressed the market price of the #6 by
$10 - $20 making it easier to get a good buy on a #6 than on any
other plane.
--
FF
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I bought 2 #5s this summer at garage sales. One was perfect for $5. =
The other was not perfect, but still better than yours, for $2.
Want to buy the $2 one for say $20?
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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>I bought 2 #5s this summer at =
garage=20
sales. One was perfect for $5. The other was not perfect, =
but still=20
better than yours, for $2.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Want to buy the $2 one for =
say=20
$20?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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In article <rD81d.84100$yh.13068@fed1read05>,
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote:
> If it has a plastic or bakelite knob, I think you're looking at a WWII
> vintage.
> Not the best users, from my experience.
>
>
> Yeah I suspect that too but the casting is so light compared to a WWII
> one...
> Thinner walls on the sides, the whole thing is not too heavy, unless it was
> overly tuned by a previous owner. Glad you could post from experience
> though, thanks much, I'll let it go at that price. This seller is wierd, he
> will
> not bargain at all. Surfer too.
Are you _sure_ it's a Stanley? You're not just going by what's stamped
into the blade, right? The replacement blades from hardware stores
were/are almost always made by Stanley.
The only Stanleys I'd consider buying would be the Bedrock line or the
Bailey line. Either way the main casting of the plane would have
"Bailey" or "Bedrock" cast into the it.
Also, another dead giveaway on determining if it's likely a real
Stanley is the iron's lateral adjustment lever. The Baileys and Bedrocks
have a three part lever: a disk at the bottom under the iron riveted to
a flat main shaft ending with a pressed in finger tab extending
downwards. Knock off planes often cheaped out by making the finger tab
by merely bending the sides of the main shaft into an inverted "U".
I'm thinking it's a knockoff/competitor's plane and probly not worth the
money if it's noticeably lighter than expected.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
--
"Osama WHO?" asked *.
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If it has a plastic or bakelite knob, I think you're looking at a WWII =
vintage. =20
Not the best users, from my experience.
Yeah I suspect that too but the casting is so light compared to a WWII =
one...
Thinner walls on the sides, the whole thing is not too heavy, unless =
it was=20
overly tuned by a previous owner. Glad you could post from experience=20
though, thanks much, I'll let it go at that price. This seller is =
wierd, he will=20
not bargain at all. Surfer too.
Alex
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<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>If it has a plastic or bakelite knob, =
I think=20
you're looking at a WWII vintage. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Not the best users, from my=20
experience.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yeah I suspect that too but the =
casting is so=20
light compared to a WWII one...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thinner walls on the sides, the whole =
thing is=20
not too heavy, </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>unless it was =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>overly tuned by a previous owner. =
</FONT><FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>Glad you could post from experience =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>though, thanks much, I'll let it go =
at that=20
price. This seller is wierd, he will </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>not bargain at all. Surfer =
too.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Alex</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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