Drawer lock bit ?

> I will soon start building 7 drawers 24" wide to go below my new
workbench. I have
> decided to use a CMT drawer lock bit, 1/4" shank, in my old Crapsman
router hung
> below the smallish Crapsman bench top router table. I am going to do it
this way
> because I have not yet built a new router table for my Porter-Cable 7518
and I do not
> want to learn how to hand-cut through dovetails at this time. I realize I
must
> practice on scrap pieces to get the bit adjusted correctly. I also must be
certain
> that the boards to be cut must have perfect 90° ends and that all four
sides of each
> drawer are prepared to the same thickness. Is there something dumb-assed I
am
> missing? Any suggestions or "watch out for" or "why not do it this way"
comments will
> be appreciated.

I haven't used the CMT bits, but I just finished doing some baltic birch
drawers with the small Lee Valley bit and am quite satisfied with how they
turned out. Perfect joints with no gaps, and once set up, you can whip off
drawers by the truckfull.

You're already aware of the critical setup issues. The only other thing I'd
add is that the feed of material across the bit has to be absolutely
perfect. Do whatever you need to to do feed the material precisely and
consistently. Use as many featherboards as needed, and be particularly
careful that the vertical passes do not wobble as they're fed. Also use a
6x6 or larger backup board to prevent tearout at the end of the cut and to
stabilize the piece as it's being fed.

mp wrote:

> > I will soon start building 7 drawers 24" wide to go below my new
> workbench. I have
> > decided to use a CMT drawer lock bit, 1/4" shank, in my old Crapsman
> router hung
> > below the smallish Crapsman bench top router table. I am going to do it
> this way
> > because I have not yet built a new router table for my Porter-Cable 7518
> and I do not
> > want to learn how to hand-cut through dovetails at this time. I realize I
> must
> > practice on scrap pieces to get the bit adjusted correctly. I also must be
> certain
> > that the boards to be cut must have perfect 90° ends and that all four
> sides of each
> > drawer are prepared to the same thickness. Is there something dumb-assed I
> am
> > missing? Any suggestions or "watch out for" or "why not do it this way"
> comments will
> > be appreciated.
>
> I haven't used the CMT bits, but I just finished doing some baltic birch
> drawers with the small Lee Valley bit and am quite satisfied with how they
> turned out. Perfect joints with no gaps, and once set up, you can whip off
> drawers by the truckfull.
>
> You're already aware of the critical setup issues. The only other thing I'd
> add is that the feed of material across the bit has to be absolutely
> perfect. Do whatever you need to to do feed the material precisely and
> consistently. Use as many featherboards as needed, and be particularly
> careful that the vertical passes do not wobble as they're fed. Also use a
> 6x6 or larger backup board to prevent tearout at the end of the cut and to
> stabilize the piece as it's being fed.

Thanks mp and Toller for your helpful information. I feel better now having asked the
question and received informed replies. I will comply with them.
Hoyt W.

"Toller" wrote in message ...
> There is no reason for the sides to be equal. I just did some where the
> front was 3/4 and the rest 1/2.

Did you get your drawer slide issue straightened out?


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Last update: 4/13/04

"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message ...
> I realize I must
> practice on scrap pieces to get the bit adjusted correctly.


I've seen these bits sold with an optional set up block. My guess is that
you just slide the block against the bit to get a perfect height so both
cuts match.

I considered getting one for my last project but it was only two drawers.
Next time I'm going to give it a try.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

> Did you get your drawer slide issue straightened out?

No, I got it a bit closer and called it finished. I can always replace them
with better ones.

I am not looking forward to my next set of flush frame drawers.

I appreciated your efforts though.

There is no reason for the sides to be equal. I just did some where the
front was 3/4 and the rest 1/2.

With a crappy router you will either have to make several passes, or go real
slowly, which will burn. Take your pick.
Tear out can be a problem; I climb cut the ends first, which helps, but I
wouldn't want to do that without a sled. Fortunately one side be on the
bottom and not seen, so you might be able to bury the problem.

The first time I used them, I made the back piece two small, and when I
assembled them, the drawer locks broke. Poor craftsmanship, no excuse.

"Toller" wrote in message
> > Did you get your drawer slide issue straightened out?
>
> No, I got it a bit closer and called it finished. I can always replace
them
> with better ones.
>
> I am not looking forward to my next set of flush frame drawers.

That's why I almost always use overlay drawer fronts when using store bought
drawer slides, and wooden drawer runners when I do inset drawers.

If you can ever find a jig that works for the type of cabinets you build,
you can save a lot of trial, error, and interior cabinet sides full of screw
holes..

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www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04