Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I
don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd
like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple.
Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly
the surface?
thanks,
dwhite
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 13:10:10 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"WillR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better
>> than putty.
>>
>> Done it myself a few times.
>>
>> Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that
>> reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay.
>> http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/productsbusiness/productsfurniture.html
>
>
>Yup, this method of hiding makes it look like you did it on purpose to add
>decorative features.
>
ahh... the famous "I meant to do that"...
not that I've ever done that, of course.. *g*
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
mp wrote:
> >I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes
in a
> > variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying,
sands nice.
>
> Geez, I'd be careful about using any acetone-based products. If you
eat too
> much of it you might get liver damage.
Just don't get it on your liver.
Dan White wrote:
> Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely
flat and
> there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25
inches). I
> don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but
I'd
> like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the
maple.
> Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before
I poly
> the surface?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
Dunno if you can get it at the Borg, but Franklin International, makers
of Titebond, make a wood filler that I used myself for the first time
yesterday. I like it. I'm sure that all the brands are about the
same, though the Titebond smells like lacquer thinner, rather than
acetone.
-Phil Crow
"WillR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better
> than putty.
>
> Done it myself a few times.
>
> Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that
> reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay.
> http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/productsbusiness/productsfurniture.html
Yup, this method of hiding makes it look like you did it on purpose to add
decorative features.
mac davis wrote:
>=20
> ahh... the famous "I meant to do that"...
> not that I've ever done that, of course.. *g*
>=20
SSSSHHHHHH! You guys! You'll get us all in trouble!!!!
>=20
>=20
> mac
>=20
> Please remove splinters before emailing
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
OK, thanks for all the responses. Tho' the inlay idea is nice, it is a bit
more elaborate than what I wanted to get into. I picked up some plain ole'
"natural" color wood filler. Looks like it came out OK.
thanks for the help,
dwhite
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Dan White wrote:
> > Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely
> flat and
> > there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25
> inches). I
> > don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but
> I'd
> > like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the
> maple.
> > Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before
> I poly
> > the surface?
> >
> > thanks,
> > dwhite
>
> Dunno if you can get it at the Borg, but Franklin International, makers
> of Titebond, make a wood filler that I used myself for the first time
> yesterday. I like it. I'm sure that all the brands are about the
> same, though the Titebond smells like lacquer thinner, rather than
> acetone.
>
> -Phil Crow
>
I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes in a
variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying, sands nice.
About $2.50 for a small can
Will
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat
and
> there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches).
I
> don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd
> like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the
maple.
> Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I
poly
> the surface?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
Dan White wrote:
> Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and
> there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I
> don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd
> like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple.
> Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly
> the surface?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks
better than putty.
Done it myself a few times.
Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that
reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay.
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/productsbusiness/productsfurniture.html
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek