On Thursday, June 14, 2012 6:57:23 PM UTC-4, JayPique wrote:
> I'm planning to use milk paint to finish a
...piece of furniture and have not used it before. I'm going to lightly di=
stress the maple, then apply a coat of deep red, then black, then some sort=
of top-coat to seal it. I'd like to have a rub through finish in spots, t=
hat will show a bit of the red, and a bit more of the natural maple underne=
ath. Any suggestions? Can I spray this paint through my hvlp (4 stage Fuj=
i)? Do I need a different tip? Is it worth it to spray, or should I just =
brush it on, since I'm going to top-coat? Thanks for any suggestions.
JP
On Thursday, June 14, 2012 4:01:55 PM UTC-7, JayPique wrote:
> On Thursday, June 14, 2012 6:57:23 PM UTC-4, JayPique wrote:
> > I'm planning to use milk paint to finish a
>=20
> ...piece of furniture and have not used it before. I'm going to lightly =
distress the maple, then apply a coat of deep red, then black, then some so=
rt of top-coat to seal it. I'd like to have a rub through finish in spots,=
that will show a bit of the red, and a bit more of the natural maple under=
neath. Any suggestions? Can I spray this paint through my hvlp (4 stage F=
uji)? Do I need a different tip? Is it worth it to spray, or should I jus=
t brush it on, since I'm going to top-coat? Thanks for any suggestions.
> JP
I have used it a lot just as you propose. Way to thick and granular to spra=
y.
A few tricks\pointers:
1. You can apply a coat of shellac first. This will help to allow you to ru=
b through to show the wood easier. It is just an option but something you c=
an test.
2. I like to stain the wood first, then shellac, then paint, then rub.
3. A coat of shellac between paint coats can also help with seperation for =
rub through.
4. Faux finishers tip is to rub a candle or other wax stick in a few locati=
ons on top of the first color after it dries. Then after overpainting the s=
econd color has dried, rub the waxed areas with scotch pad and paint will c=
hip off where wax was. Great effect.
5. I know you aren't looking to do a crackel finish but it can be cool to d=
o some spot crackle, maybe a few strips like an inch wide a few inches long=
. Just paint on crackle underlay or elmers white glue diluted with water ov=
er first color coat after it dries. Let the crackle mixture dry. When paint=
ing the second color, paint over the crackle areas quickly so you don't we=
t and mix the crackle underlay with the paint and in a few minutes as the n=
ew paint startes to dry the crackle will appear.
6. You can use shellac as the final overcoat and rub it out with steel wool=
to dull it a bit.
You can see one similar example, just a single color milk paint over pine r=
ubbed and shellac overcoat dulled. On this page of my website, third row do=
wn at the far righ, click to expand army green night stands.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/index.php?option=3Dcom_content&view=3Dsection=
&id=3D3&Itemid=3D13
On Thu, 14 Jun 2012 16:01:55 -0700, JayPique wrote:
> Can I spray this paint through my
> hvlp (4 stage Fuji)? Do I need a different tip? Is it worth it to
> spray, or should I just brush it on, since I'm going to top-coat?
> Thanks for any suggestions. JP
I've never tried to spray it. Seems to be "authentic" it should have a
few brushmarks :-).
OTOH, Generql Finishes makes a faux milk paint which is just acrylic in
colors and sheen appropriate to real milk paint. I suspect it would
spray OK.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw