Just bought a Japanese weeding knife for a friend. It's got some sort of
hardwood handle, but it's not treated with anything that I can see. When I
bought the same tool for myself 20 years ago, I had a little bottle of some
sort of oil made by Chicago Cutlery, but that's gone. I'd rather not buy a
large can of something I'll only use once in a blue moon. Is plain vegetable
oil good enough for something like this, just to make the wood a bit more
immune to moisture? It won't be exposed to LOTS of water, just dropped on
wet grass, frozen in the garage for 4 months, that sort of thing.
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 17:34:55 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:44:30 -0500, Robert Galloway
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >What's been offered is OK. I'd ask, why not use something that
>> >polymerizes, rather than something that can be extracted again from the
>> >wood handle? Something like tung oil, alkyd varnish, even BLS will
>> >polymerize, seal the pores in the wood handle, not leach back out, would
>> >seem to be a longer term solution. I'd thing mineral and paraffin would
>> >require reapplication sooner than a thinned polyurethane/mineral spirit
>> >mix. BTW, I do use this combination on the kitchen stuff and have been
>> >satisfied with it. I'd think (haven't tried it) that mineral oil would
>> >deposit a little of itself on every towel you laid the knife on until
>> >most of the mineral oil leached back out. With something that
>> >polymerizes, once it's set, it's set.
>> >
>> >bob g.
>>
>> I use equal parts parraffin wax and BLO. melt it, submerge the handle
>> and leave it over heat until the bubbles stop coming out of the wood.
>> give it a few days to dry and you have a very well protected handle
>> with little surface build.
>
>What's BLO?
>
boiled linseed oil
Mineral oil would be a good choice.
vegitable oils are sometimes known to go rancid/sticky
I usually mix paraffin and mineral oil, melt over low heat, then heat
the wood (steak knife handles and cooking spoons) in the oven to drive
out moisture/open pores.
Then coat or dip the wood into the oil and let cool (soaking or not.)
--
be safe.
flip
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 22:51:30 -0400, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug Kanter wrote:
>
>>> I use equal parts parraffin wax and BLO. melt it, submerge the handle
>>> and leave it over heat until the bubbles stop coming out of the wood.
>>> give it a few days to dry and you have a very well protected handle
>>> with little surface build.
>>
>> What's BLO?
>
>Blonde Lingerie Oil. To get it, you have to remove the lingerie from a
>blonde, then extract the oil. (How you extract it is a secret, but it's
>fun.)
wow! I like that a lot better than the BLO I've been using. I'll have
to try it....
Doug Kanter wrote:
>> I use equal parts parraffin wax and BLO. melt it, submerge the handle
>> and leave it over heat until the bubbles stop coming out of the wood.
>> give it a few days to dry and you have a very well protected handle
>> with little surface build.
>
> What's BLO?
Blonde Lingerie Oil. To get it, you have to remove the lingerie from a
blonde, then extract the oil. (How you extract it is a secret, but it's
fun.)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:44:30 -0500, Robert Galloway
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >What's been offered is OK. I'd ask, why not use something that
> >polymerizes, rather than something that can be extracted again from the
> >wood handle? Something like tung oil, alkyd varnish, even BLS will
> >polymerize, seal the pores in the wood handle, not leach back out, would
> >seem to be a longer term solution. I'd thing mineral and paraffin would
> >require reapplication sooner than a thinned polyurethane/mineral spirit
> >mix. BTW, I do use this combination on the kitchen stuff and have been
> >satisfied with it. I'd think (haven't tried it) that mineral oil would
> >deposit a little of itself on every towel you laid the knife on until
> >most of the mineral oil leached back out. With something that
> >polymerizes, once it's set, it's set.
> >
> >bob g.
>
> I use equal parts parraffin wax and BLO. melt it, submerge the handle
> and leave it over heat until the bubbles stop coming out of the wood.
> give it a few days to dry and you have a very well protected handle
> with little surface build.
What's BLO?
What's been offered is OK. I'd ask, why not use something that
polymerizes, rather than something that can be extracted again from the
wood handle? Something like tung oil, alkyd varnish, even BLS will
polymerize, seal the pores in the wood handle, not leach back out, would
seem to be a longer term solution. I'd thing mineral and paraffin would
require reapplication sooner than a thinned polyurethane/mineral spirit
mix. BTW, I do use this combination on the kitchen stuff and have been
satisfied with it. I'd think (haven't tried it) that mineral oil would
deposit a little of itself on every towel you laid the knife on until
most of the mineral oil leached back out. With something that
polymerizes, once it's set, it's set.
bob g.
AAvK wrote:
>>Just bought a Japanese weeding knife for a friend. It's got some sort of
>>hardwood handle, but it's not treated with anything that I can see. When I
>>bought the same tool for myself 20 years ago, I had a little bottle of some
>>sort of oil made by Chicago Cutlery, but that's gone. I'd rather not buy a
>>large can of something I'll only use once in a blue moon. Is plain vegetable
>>oil good enough for something like this, just to make the wood a bit more
>>immune to moisture? It won't be exposed to LOTS of water, just dropped on
>>wet grass, frozen in the garage for 4 months, that sort of thing.
>>
>>
>
> What I did for an untreated chef's knife handle, heated peanut oil, it's thick and
> solidifies in the fridge. I heated it and the knife handle over the kitchen stove.
> Got it real warm, used rolled up paper towel (thickly) and painted the hot oil
> into the hot handle several times over, intermitently reheating the handle as the
> oil stays hot on a medium-low flame. Works like a... well oiled handle, and no
> problem has occured with water wrecking it, no rancid smells either, and no
> greasiness from it.
>
> Alex
>
>
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:44:30 -0500, Robert Galloway
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What's been offered is OK. I'd ask, why not use something that
>polymerizes, rather than something that can be extracted again from the
>wood handle? Something like tung oil, alkyd varnish, even BLS will
>polymerize, seal the pores in the wood handle, not leach back out, would
>seem to be a longer term solution. I'd thing mineral and paraffin would
>require reapplication sooner than a thinned polyurethane/mineral spirit
>mix. BTW, I do use this combination on the kitchen stuff and have been
>satisfied with it. I'd think (haven't tried it) that mineral oil would
>deposit a little of itself on every towel you laid the knife on until
>most of the mineral oil leached back out. With something that
>polymerizes, once it's set, it's set.
>
>bob g.
I use equal parts parraffin wax and BLO. melt it, submerge the handle
and leave it over heat until the bubbles stop coming out of the wood.
give it a few days to dry and you have a very well protected handle
with little surface build.
> Just bought a Japanese weeding knife for a friend. It's got some sort of
> hardwood handle, but it's not treated with anything that I can see. When I
> bought the same tool for myself 20 years ago, I had a little bottle of some
> sort of oil made by Chicago Cutlery, but that's gone. I'd rather not buy a
> large can of something I'll only use once in a blue moon. Is plain vegetable
> oil good enough for something like this, just to make the wood a bit more
> immune to moisture? It won't be exposed to LOTS of water, just dropped on
> wet grass, frozen in the garage for 4 months, that sort of thing.
>
>
What I did for an untreated chef's knife handle, heated peanut oil, it's thick and
solidifies in the fridge. I heated it and the knife handle over the kitchen stove.
Got it real warm, used rolled up paper towel (thickly) and painted the hot oil
into the hot handle several times over, intermitently reheating the handle as the
oil stays hot on a medium-low flame. Works like a... well oiled handle, and no
problem has occured with water wrecking it, no rancid smells either, and no
greasiness from it.
Alex
"Philip Lewis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mineral oil would be a good choice.
> vegitable oils are sometimes known to go rancid/sticky
>
> I usually mix paraffin and mineral oil, melt over low heat, then heat
> the wood (steak knife handles and cooking spoons) in the oven to drive
> out moisture/open pores.
>
> Then coat or dip the wood into the oil and let cool (soaking or not.)
Thanks!