Lowell Holmes wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Robatoy wrote:
>>>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>>>>
>> Did this go over my head?
>>
> I think it might be a chisel. :-)
>
> I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not that
> small.
Think V-bit - the square corner is cut by raising the bit so that the
point cuts the right angle. It (almost) requires CNC control.
Next up, I'd like to see that same inlay pattern with a slight undercut
to give the inlay material a better chance to hold. :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Jan 29, 9:18=A0am, Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
> Lowell Holmes wrote:
> > "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Robatoy wrote:
> >>>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>
> >> Did this go over my head?
>
> > I think it might be a chisel. =A0:-)
>
> > I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not=
that
> > small.
>
> Think V-bit - the square corner is cut by raising the bit so that the
> point cuts the right angle. It (almost) requires CNC control.
>
> Next up, I'd like to see that same inlay pattern with a slight undercut
> to give the inlay material a better chance to hold. :)
>
The chemical aggressiveness, on a molecular level, creates a bond that
is almost pure.
We are talking cohesion as well as adhesion. IOW.. no need for
undercutting, smarty-pants. <G>
[email protected] wrote:
> First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> Then fill with inlay.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> Then, sand smooth.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> Presto!
>
> r
That is like when I did my first Standard Deviation on a digital
calculator, I felt that someway I was cheating.
On Jan 29, 7:27=A0am, Keith nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> > Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> > Then fill with inlay.
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> > Then, sand smooth.
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> > Presto!
>
> > r
>
> Do you then coat the surface with something?
>
> We have some old resin type tops in our bathrooms that we have been
> thinking of refinishing. =A0Could this technique be used in conjunction
> with refinishing?
No, it will be polished, however.
Now you resin-type countertops can be gel-coat with man-made marble
underneat. Refinishing those is difficult.
If there is a thick coating on top, then it can be polished with
automotive compounds. It's Polyester.
Other resin-types can be polyester all the way through. Those can be
sanded and polished; refinished till they look new.
One way to tell is to look underneath. If it feels/looks chalky.. it
is most likely gel-coat.
If your top has an integral sink, and it shows cracks around the
drain, it is not repairable.
[email protected] wrote:
> First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> Then fill with inlay.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> Then, sand smooth.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> Presto!
I don't recognize the wood - what species is it?
R
On Jan 29, 2:13=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > It is an acrylic two-part. But not an epoxy. Varieties are used to
> > join seams for both quartz and solid surface.
>
> Looks like what they make to fill holes and seems in vinyl exterior
> house trim.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
They do use a similar product to adhere artificial hips and knees in
place.
On Jan 29, 12:24=A0am, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> > Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> > Then fill with inlay.
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> > Then, sand smooth.
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> > Presto!
>
> I don't recognize the wood - what species is it?
>
> R
It is called Biscayne Blue. It adorns many wonderful wooden vanities
and kitchen cabinets.
Now, with the inlay technique, one can enhance a theme, being perhaps
a Harvey Ellis style or Greene and Greene.
The inlays can be derived from any image, in a multitude of colours.
A floral pattern could augment a cabriolet leg, for instance.
Joe wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Robatoy wrote:
>>>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>>>>
>> Did this go over my head?
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> If it did, we're the same height.
>
> jc
LOL!
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b755cf47-901f-4146-a8d5-8041081db544@l39g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 29, 8:53 am, "Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...> Robatoy wrote:
> >>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>
> > Did this go over my head?
>
> > --
>
> > -MIKE-
>
> I think it might be a chisel. :-)
>
> I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not
> that
> small.
It's a technique called V-Bit carving. Works marvellously well.
Especially when one imitates a raised-panel door in MDF and then
vacuum-forms a sheet of polyvinyl over the door. But, alas, I have
said too much.
I have seen that technique used with a top tapered pilot bearing v-bit and
templates that narrow near the locations that you want pointy corners or
ends. Essentially the bit raises up at the corner. CMT sells the set to
do this.
http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=PJJ~RCS~2
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Robatoy wrote:
>>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>>>
>
> Did this go over my head?
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
I think it might be a chisel. :-)
I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not that
small.
In article <873186bf-d209-4e14-b249-
[email protected]>, [email protected]=20
says...
> > =A0 -MIKE-
> >
> > =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> > =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> > =A0 --
> > =A0http://mikedrums.com
> > =A0 [email protected]
> > =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>=20
> They do use a similar product to adhere artificial hips and knees in
> place.
Now *that* sounds like fun...
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:glric2$a2u$1
@news.motzarella.org:
> Robatoy wrote:
>>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>>>
>
> Did this go over my head?
>
>
Can't get a square corner with a spinning router bit!
[email protected] wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
[email protected]:
> First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> Then fill with inlay.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> Then, sand smooth.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> Presto!
>
> r
so what are you filling with?
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:e9e77497-9ee5-
[email protected]:
> On Jan 29, 8:54 am, Larrybud <[email protected]> wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
>> [email protected]:
>>
>> > First, you rout out the pattern you want.
>> > Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>> > Then fill with inlay.
>>
>> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>>
>> > Then, sand smooth.
>>
>> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>>
>> > Presto!
>>
>> > r
>>
>> so what are you filling with?
>
> Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
> Methyl Methacrylate
> Monomer...
otherwise known as....?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Robatoy wrote:
>>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>>>
>
> Did this go over my head?
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
If it did, we're the same height.
jc
On Jan 29, 8:53=A0am, "Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...> Robatoy wrote:
> >>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>
> > Did this go over my head?
>
> > --
>
> > =A0-MIKE-
>
> I think it might be a chisel. =A0:-)
>
> I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not t=
hat
> small.
It's a technique called V-Bit carving. Works marvellously well.
Especially when one imitates a raised-panel door in MDF and then
vacuum-forms a sheet of polyvinyl over the door. But, alas, I have
said too much.
On Jan 29, 10:04=A0am, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sooooo.. Is it a "solid surface" material of some sort ???
>
> Robatoy wrote:
> > It is called Biscayne Blue.
Yes it is. A mixture of ATH and acrylic. Traded under the names of
Corian, Staron, Meganite etc. This particular colour is made by
Meganite.
On Jan 28, 10:39=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> Then fill with inlay.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> Then, sand smooth.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> Presto!
>
> r
Angela is pretty good with that stuff, eh? (better than I am at
changing log-ins.)
On Jan 29, 12:37=A0pm, Larrybud <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:e9e77497-9ee5-
> [email protected]:
>
>
>
> > On Jan 29, 8:54=A0am, Larrybud <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> [email protected] wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
> >> [email protected]:
>
> >> > First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> >> > Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> >> > Then fill with inlay.
>
> >> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> >> > Then, sand smooth.
>
> >> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> >> > Presto!
>
> >> > r
>
> >> so what are you filling with?
>
> > Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
> > Methyl Methacrylate
> > Monomer...
>
> otherwise known as....?
It is an acrylic two-part. But not an epoxy. Varieties are used to
join seams for both quartz and solid surface.
On Jan 29, 8:54=A0am, Larrybud <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
> [email protected]:
>
> > First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> > Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> > Then fill with inlay.
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> > Then, sand smooth.
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> > Presto!
>
> > r
>
> so what are you filling with?
Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Methyl Methacrylate
Monomer
CAS No 80-62-6
38-48 7940
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
7093ppm
(rat/ 4hr)
ACGIH1 TLV-TWA: 50 ppm
Carcinogen A4, Sensitizer
ACGIH STEL: 100 ppm
Part B
Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Benzoyl Peroxide2
(Active O2 < 1.0%)
CAS No 94-36-0
2-4 7710
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Dibutyl Phthalate
CAS No 84-74-2
5-10 800
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
12500
mg/m3
(mouse
/4hr)
ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Reaction product of
Epichlorohydrin and
Bisphenol A
CAS No 25085-99-8 75-90 11400
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. N. Established
Robatoy wrote:
>> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
>>
Did this go over my head?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Robatoy wrote:
> It is an acrylic two-part. But not an epoxy. Varieties are used to
> join seams for both quartz and solid surface.
Looks like what they make to fill holes and seems in vinyl exterior
house trim.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> so what are you filling with?
Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Methyl Methacrylate
Monomer
CAS No 80-62-6
38-48 7940
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
7093ppm
(rat/ 4hr)
ACGIH1 TLV-TWA: 50 ppm
Carcinogen A4, Sensitizer
ACGIH STEL: 100 ppm
Part B
Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Benzoyl Peroxide2
(Active O2 < 1.0%)
CAS No 94-36-0
2-4 7710
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Dibutyl Phthalate
CAS No 84-74-2
5-10 800
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
12500
mg/m3
(mouse
/4hr)
ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Reaction product of
Epichlorohydrin and
Bisphenol A
CAS No 25085-99-8 75-90 11400
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. N. Established
Ohhhh..... *THAT* stuff.... I think I have some behind the 5 year old garnet
shellac in the finish cabinet.
jc
[email protected] wrote:
> First, you rout out the pattern you want.
> Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
> Then fill with inlay.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Scoop1.jpg
>
> Then, sand smooth.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Flushsand.jpg
>
> Presto!
>
> r
Do you then coat the surface with something?
We have some old resin type tops in our bathrooms that we have been
thinking of refinishing. Could this technique be used in conjunction
with refinishing?