using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
windows. end product will be painted white
Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bit
of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a
small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
Thanks again.
On Apr 27, 9:04=A0pm, Picasso <[email protected]> wrote:
> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
> windows. =A0end product will be painted white
>
> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
> fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>
> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>
> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bit
> of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a
> small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>
> Thanks again.
Yes.
Spackle.
Roller.
You're welcome.
Tim, your experience is very different than mine. I built two
angled floor plates in a box truck. I expected them to be
temporary and only used MDF as a pattern and to check concept and
dimensions. That was 8 years ago and these unfinished platforms
have been exposed to wind, snow, mud, blowing rain, an antifreeze
leak, spilled coffee, and heavy foot traffic. So far they haven't
shown any of the signs you're talking about.
I was also concerned about using it as unfinished flooring in the
shop, so a I nailed down a 4x4 square at the entry door thinking
it would not do well and I could eliminate it as a choice.
Capping the shop floor is a low priority - that was 4 years ago
and the stuff remains unhurt and I would be willing to pull it up
and use it as a finished surface.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Tim W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Picasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my
>> vinyl windows. end product will be painted white
>>
>> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides
>> before fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>>
>> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>>
>> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with
>> another bit of paint, which brings me to another question.. is
>> it worth using a small roller to apply the primer & paint or
>> just use a brush?
>>
>> Thanks again.
>
> I know you didn't ask and you won't want to be told this but
> really you need to burn the MDF and use wood or plastic. Even MR
> MDF is messed up by water be it condensation, roof leaks,
> spills, rising damp, plumbing leaks, all the things which all
> buildings get from time to time. It shouldn't really be used in
> any application where it is permanently fixed. I am aware that
> the rest of the world will go complacently using it because it
> is cheap and because it requires less skilled labour but I
> won't.
>
> So it doesn't really matter if you prime only, prime and paint,
> put dpm underneath it, bitumen it, soak it in linseed oil, buy
> it with a melamine face, whatever - it will still need replacing
> once a bit of wet has got to it. Plastic or wood.
>
> Tim w
>
"Picasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
> windows. end product will be painted white
>
> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
> fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>
> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>
> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bit
> of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a small
> roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>
> Thanks again.
I know you didn't ask and you won't want to be told this but really you need
to burn the MDF and use wood or plastic. Even MR MDF is messed up by water
be it condensation, roof leaks, spills, rising damp, plumbing leaks, all the
things which all buildings get from time to time. It shouldn't really be
used in any application where it is permanently fixed. I am aware that the
rest of the world will go complacently using it because it is cheap and
because it requires less skilled labour but I won't.
So it doesn't really matter if you prime only, prime and paint, put dpm
underneath it, bitumen it, soak it in linseed oil, buy it with a melamine
face, whatever - it will still need replacing once a bit of wet has got to
it. Plastic or wood.
Tim w
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tim, your experience is very different than mine. I built two angled
> floor plates in a box truck. I expected them to be temporary and only
> used MDF as a pattern and to check concept and dimensions. That was 8
> years ago and these unfinished platforms have been exposed to wind, snow,
> mud, blowing rain, an antifreeze leak, spilled coffee, and heavy foot
> traffic. So far they haven't shown any of the signs you're talking about.
>
> I was also concerned about using it as unfinished flooring in the shop, so
> a I nailed down a 4x4 square at the entry door thinking it would not do
> well and I could eliminate it as a choice. Capping the shop floor is a low
> priority - that was 4 years ago and the stuff remains unhurt and I would
> be willing to pull it up and use it as a finished surface.
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
Aren't you all really talking about MDO and not MDF?
On Apr 28, 1:06=A0pm, Limp Arbor <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 27, 9:04=A0pm, Picasso <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
> > windows. =A0end product will be painted white
>
> > Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
> > fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>
> > Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>
> > I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bi=
t
> > of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a
> > small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>
> > Thanks again.
>
> I mistakenly used MDF baseboard in my house. =A0Granted baseboard will
> take more abuse than your window trim but be advised it chips, dents,
> flakes easily. =A0Although five years around the kitchen floor, which
> SWMBO washes at least twice a week, and no signs of water absorption.
> I used the pre-primed BORG stuff and painted all sides before
> installing including the miters & copes.
>
> I built raised panel doors using MDF for the panel and poplar for the
> frame. =A0I painted the MDF with a roller before assembly and ended up
> repainting them because the paint rolled onto the super-smooth MDF
> looked too fake. =A0I ended up repainting them with a brush. =A0To me the
> rolled paint on MDF is too smooth.
>
> Try it both ways and let dry to see which you prefer.
>
> I'm with Robatoy on the spackle. =A0Works much better on MDF than
> painters putty.
The Borgs often sell wrapped MDF. Looks primed, but in reality has a
condom all over the face of it. I have seen that stuff come off in
sheets. Just awful. The primed MDF, a bit better, but still, horrid.
Bottom line?
Crap is crap no matter how you package it.
I made a few dozen kitchen cabinet doors out of panel-routed MDF once.
By the time *I* was happy with a finish that *I* was confident in
leaving behind at a customer's house, I has spent so much time and
money on materials that it was simply outrageous. They are still nice
15+ years later and they damned-well better be, there are my personal
sweat and miscellaneous body parts ground into that finish. NEVA
again! *spits on ground*
On Apr 27, 9:04=A0pm, Picasso <[email protected]> wrote:
> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
> windows. =A0end product will be painted white
>
> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
> fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>
> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>
> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bit
> of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a
> small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>
> Thanks again.
I mistakenly used MDF baseboard in my house. Granted baseboard will
take more abuse than your window trim but be advised it chips, dents,
flakes easily. Although five years around the kitchen floor, which
SWMBO washes at least twice a week, and no signs of water absorption.
I used the pre-primed BORG stuff and painted all sides before
installing including the miters & copes.
I built raised panel doors using MDF for the panel and poplar for the
frame. I painted the MDF with a roller before assembly and ended up
repainting them because the paint rolled onto the super-smooth MDF
looked too fake. I ended up repainting them with a brush. To me the
rolled paint on MDF is too smooth.
Try it both ways and let dry to see which you prefer.
I'm with Robatoy on the spackle. Works much better on MDF than
painters putty.
On Apr 28, 4:00=A0am, "Tim W" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Picasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
> > windows. =A0end product will be painted white
>
> > Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
> > fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>
> > Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>
> > I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bi=
t
> > of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a sma=
ll
> > roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>
> > Thanks again.
>
> I know you didn't ask and you won't want to be told this but really you n=
eed
> to burn the MDF and use wood or plastic. Even MR MDF is messed up by wate=
r
> be it condensation, roof leaks, spills, rising damp, plumbing leaks, all =
the
> things which all buildings get from time to time. It shouldn't really be
> used in any application where it is permanently fixed. I am aware that th=
e
> rest of the world will go complacently using it because it is cheap and
> because it requires less skilled labour but I won't.
>
> So it doesn't really matter if you prime only, prime and paint, put dpm
> underneath it, bitumen it, soak it in linseed oil, buy it with a melamine
> face, whatever - it will still need replacing once a bit of wet has got t=
o
> it. Plastic or wood.
>
> Tim w
I'm 100% behind the option of a much better product in that
application. On the ridiculous end of the spectrum, how about
stainless steel? I know Tim W isn't being silly and he's right. MDF is
not the optimum product, but if that is what you're using, paint it
all around, sealing as much as possible from the universe and that
leaves us with oil-based, piss-coated (thin it 20% or thinner) primer
coats that soak in nicely and I wouldn't bother with a primer per se.
Use the oil-based paint that you're going to finish with and use *it*,
thinned, as a primer. That works for me and has for decades. I'm sure
our dear friend Nailshooter has much to contribute and I hope he does.
r
Woody wrote:
> Picasso wrote:
>> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
>> windows. end product will be painted white
>>
>> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
>> fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>>
>> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>>
>> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another
>> bit of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using
>> a small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>>
>> Thanks again.
>
> Whatever you prime/paint it with, make sure it's oil-based. The
> water-based primers/paints will raise the routed "grain" making it fuzzy
> and not-smooth.
>
> I learned this the hard way installing a roomful of raised-panel
> wainscoting constructed of wainscoting.
Make that "wainscoting constructed of MDF."
>
> ~Mark.
Picasso wrote:
> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
> windows. end product will be painted white
>
> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
> fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>
> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>
> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bit
> of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a
> small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>
> Thanks again.
Whatever you prime/paint it with, make sure it's oil-based. The
water-based primers/paints will raise the routed "grain" making it fuzzy
and not-smooth.
I learned this the hard way installing a roomful of raised-panel
wainscoting constructed of wainscoting.
~Mark.
Limp Arbor wrote:
> On Apr 27, 9:04 pm, Picasso <[email protected]> wrote:
>> using mdf sheet material to do my 3/4 returns and trim on my vinyl
>> windows. end product will be painted white
>>
>> Just wondering if it is necessary to prime and paint all sides before
>> fitting the returns and trim, or prime only?
>>
>> Also, what do I fill the nail holes with?
>>
>> I realize if painted prior to fitting, they'll need hit with another bit
>> of paint, which brings me to another question.. is it worth using a
>> small roller to apply the primer & paint or just use a brush?
>>
>> Thanks again.
>
> I mistakenly used MDF baseboard in my house. Granted baseboard will
> take more abuse than your window trim but be advised it chips, dents,
> flakes easily. Although five years around the kitchen floor, which
> SWMBO washes at least twice a week, and no signs of water absorption.
> I used the pre-primed BORG stuff and painted all sides before
> installing including the miters & copes.
>
> I built raised panel doors using MDF for the panel and poplar for the
> frame. I painted the MDF with a roller before assembly and ended up
> repainting them because the paint rolled onto the super-smooth MDF
> looked too fake. I ended up repainting them with a brush. To me the
> rolled paint on MDF is too smooth.
>
> Try it both ways and let dry to see which you prefer.
>
> I'm with Robatoy on the spackle. Works much better on MDF than
> painters putty.
Kinda depends what you paint it with. latex, enamel. I never use latex on
wood or mdf. You can't sand latex
--
You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK !
Mandriva 2010 using KDE 4.3
Website: www.rentmyhusband.biz
On 5/3/2010 12:31 AM, Doug Brown wrote:
> "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Tim, your experience is very different than mine. I built two angled
>> floor plates in a box truck. I expected them to be temporary and only
>> used MDF as a pattern and to check concept and dimensions. That was 8
>> years ago and these unfinished platforms have been exposed to wind,
>> snow, mud, blowing rain, an antifreeze leak, spilled coffee, and heavy
>> foot traffic. So far they haven't shown any of the signs you're
>> talking about.
>>
>> I was also concerned about using it as unfinished flooring in the
>> shop, so a I nailed down a 4x4 square at the entry door thinking it
>> would not do well and I could eliminate it as a choice. Capping the
>> shop floor is a low priority - that was 4 years ago and the stuff
>> remains unhurt and I would be willing to pull it up and use it as a
>> finished surface.
>>
>> --
>> ______________________________
>> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
>> DanG (remove the sevens)
>> [email protected]
>
>
> Aren't you all really talking about MDO and not MDF?
This is a case where the OP should get a piece of what he's thinking
about using and get it wet and see what happens.
Note that there is a product called "Extira" which is exterior grade
MDF, with moisture, rot, and termite resistance and limited swelling.
It apparently works pretty well but it costs about the same as Baltic
birch. The same company also produces purpose-made trim boards of a
similar material under the "miratec" brand in a variety of lengths and
widths, which might be cheaper for the intended use and would certainly
be easier to handle than full sheets of 3/4" MDF.