On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 12:45:50 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
> On 6/3/2016 8:31 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>=20
> >> My experience with bending 1/8" strips is they generally bend easily, =
as
> >> long as the bend is not severe, and the wood is fairly straight graine=
d
> >> and clear of knots. Severe bends I'd go for steam. Really severe and
> >> I'd go with air dried, and steam.
>=20
> > I needed to create a near 180 degree bend. All I can tell you is that i=
t worked for me...
>=20
> That's a good bend. Was the wood green, air-dried or kiln dried? I'd=20
> think if you could get a 180 degree bend without heat, then red cedar=20
> bends well, and the OP can forge ahead.
>=20
> --=20
> Jack
> An ounce of application is worth a ton of abstraction.
> http://jbstein.com
No idea, just a piece of 2 x 6 cedar from the big box store lying around in=
my garage...I was trying to build a homemade cartop sculling boat carrier =
out of wood instead of the usual aluminum or SST bent plate. Radius is roug=
hly 7"-->8", so pretty tight. I tried forming dry, and heard cracking so I =
decided to try wet, thinking 1/8" thick strips loaded into a 4" diameter PV=
C pipe capped on both ends (full of water) was worth trying...
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:50:35 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> > > > Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
> > >
> > My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a membe=
r of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
>=20
> Maybe some background is in order -
>=20
> The original plan was to make six garden chairs from Honduras Mahogany. W=
e made the first two from Mahogany, and that was insanely expensive, so I l=
ooked for an alternative lumber. I found a wood called "red Grandis" a plan=
tation grown Australian Eucalyptus (which is grown in Uruguay). That has wo=
rked reasonably well, but the local source has closed down.
>=20
> I need wood for two more chairs, and I don't want to again the more expen=
sive Honduras Mahogany. I haven't been able to find another source for the =
Red Grandis.
I am surprised your source for Honduran Mahogany is so expensive. Dependin=
g on where you live, you can find importers who will have some "shorts" of =
six to seven feet long and save a buck or two per board foot on the cost. =
My local source for Honduran Mahogany is prices about the same as oak in th=
e big box stores. Worth a thought. Also you might use this (assuming you =
have not already) to locate some suppliers in your area.
http://www.woodfinder.com/
On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 1:48:25 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 12:45:50 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
> > On 6/3/2016 8:31 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> >=20
> > >> My experience with bending 1/8" strips is they generally bend easily=
, as
> > >> long as the bend is not severe, and the wood is fairly straight grai=
ned
> > >> and clear of knots. Severe bends I'd go for steam. Really severe an=
d
> > >> I'd go with air dried, and steam.
> >=20
> > > I needed to create a near 180 degree bend. All I can tell you is that=
it worked for me...
> >=20
> > That's a good bend. Was the wood green, air-dried or kiln dried? I'd=
=20
> > think if you could get a 180 degree bend without heat, then red cedar=
=20
> > bends well, and the OP can forge ahead.
> >=20
> > --=20
> > Jack
> > An ounce of application is worth a ton of abstraction.
> > http://jbstein.com
>=20
> No idea, just a piece of 2 x 6 cedar from the big box store lying around =
in my garage...I was trying to build a homemade cartop sculling boat carrie=
r out of wood instead of the usual aluminum or SST bent plate. Radius is ro=
ughly 7"-->8", so pretty tight. I tried forming dry, and heard cracking so =
I decided to try wet, thinking 1/8" thick strips loaded into a 4" diameter =
PVC pipe capped on both ends (full of water) was worth trying...
looking to create something like this:
http://www.revolutionrowing.com/rowing-equipment/racing-single-scull-car-ra=
ck.html
from cedar for carting my 1946 wood racing single to and from the lake...ju=
st seems like the right thing to do...
On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 12:04:11 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
> On 5/31/2016 1:48 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >>> have never tried bent laminations and i know steam allows amazing
> >>> bends but have to have a steam setup of course
> >>
> >> My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a member of the Mahogany family,
> >> not cedar...
> >
> > btw, when I created a red cedar lamination, I soaked the 1/8" strips overnight, then gradually
> >formed them to their new shape without using any binder. I released the pieces from the form
> >and after allowing them to dry, then glued them up (using thickened epoxy) and clamped them in
> position. Overall lamination was 10 layers with virtually no rebound
> effect after release.
>
> I wonder if soaking in water helps any? My thought is wood bending
> requires heat, not water. Steam is used because it gets the wood hot
> w/o burning it. You can bend wood successfully with just a heat pipe,
> although burning is a risk. Also, my thoughts are wood is fairly water
> proof, and soaking, even thin strips, wouldn't penetrate much over
> night. Soaking in boiling water would do wonders because it heats the
> wood, elasticizing the "glue" that binds the wood fibers.
>
> My experience with bending 1/8" strips is they generally bend easily, as
> long as the bend is not severe, and the wood is fairly straight grained
> and clear of knots. Severe bends I'd go for steam. Really severe and
> I'd go with air dried, and steam.
>
> Also, cherry looks a lot like mahogany I think, and it bends well.
>
> --
> Jack
> Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
> http://jbstein.com
I needed to create a near 180 degree bend. All I can tell you is that it worked for me...
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 10:13:12 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
>=20
> If so, how does it behave? I'd like to make chair components using =E2=85=
=9B" slats glued to =E2=85=9E" thickness.
>=20
> Thanks ....
No Spanish cedar laminations, here, however....
Did you do bent laminations on the other chairs?
Your finished slats will be (1/8" thick and) 1/2" wide? That's pretty nar=
row. That narrow of slat should bend fairly easily. How acute will your=
arc/radius be?
The problem I've found with bent laminations, no matter what wood, is each =
slat has a tendency to twist, despite careful alignment. One portion of a=
slat will bend differently, than another portion of the same slat. Most =
of my BLs have been with salvaged lumber, so new lumber may be a better cho=
ice for making the slats.
New/newer air dried lumber should bend easily. Try not to use kiln dried =
lumber, which may be a problem or not an option.
When cutting your slats, try to have the wood be consistent (the wood grain=
and densities, all along the length, be equal... no knots or near knot are=
as, no anolalies, if possible). =20
Not only do a test run, as Karl says, but when you cut your slats, cut seve=
ral extras. Cut them at least 1/4" (1/2" is better for wider slats) wider=
than your proposed finished piece. *Shaving/jointing down the assembled =
unit of a 1/2" wide bent "stick" might be a test in itself.
On your test run, as you bend each slat, listen for small cracking/popping =
sounds. If you hear many of them, then your wood may have a tendency to s=
plit, somewhere along its length. I would test compare two or more slats.=
.. one having been wet over night and one dry. Check the difference (crac=
king/popping sounds) in each their bending. Spanish cedar should absorb mo=
isture fairly well, for bending purposes.... *after a little reading here~~=
> http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/spanish%20cedar.htm
Re Rocker - The backrest arc (bent lamination) on the left (my right) is 1/=
8" thick slats, 1" wide oval (finished) crown. I did have some springback=
of that crown after the chair was completed/constructed. Red maple salva=
ged wood, which absorbs moisture readily (possibly similar to S. cedar).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4032552238/in/photostream
I've done several ER cedar laminations... not fun, not always pleased with =
the results, but results were good enough. No high end type projects. Ced=
ar was not salvaged, bit had the logs milled.
Final word: Bending those small of slats shouldn't be a problem, IMO.
Sonny
....t
> surprised to know there is a eucalyptus that looks comparable
When I look at them side-by-side, the Red Grandis has a redder cast and the Mahogany looks a bit more yellow. By the way, I think "Red Grandis" may be the commercial trade name the wood is marketed as.
> so you have six chairs and three different woods
> seems like the last wood choice just needs to be close to one of the
> other two
Normally, yes, but the chairs aren't all going to the same recipient. Two for me, two for a friend, and two for a friend's brother-in-law. They won't be seen together.
> > > Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
> >
> My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a member =
of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
Maybe some background is in order -
The original plan was to make six garden chairs from Honduras Mahogany. We =
made the first two from Mahogany, and that was insanely expensive, so I loo=
ked for an alternative lumber. I found a wood called "red Grandis" a planta=
tion grown Australian Eucalyptus (which is grown in Uruguay). That has work=
ed reasonably well, but the local source has closed down.
I need wood for two more chairs, and I don't want to again the more expensi=
ve Honduras Mahogany. I haven't been able to find another source for the Re=
d Grandis.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 1:40:15 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:52:04 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> > On Tue, 31 May 2016 08:13:10 -0700 (PDT)
> > "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >=20
> > > Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
> >=20
> > no experience with spanish cedar what are the traits
> >=20
> > but what cedar i have used it seems very inflexible when completely
> > dry
> >=20
> > i think the most recent cedar was some dry western red cedar
> >=20
> >=20
> > have never tried bent laminations and i know steam allows amazing
> > bends but have to have a steam setup of course
>=20
> My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a member =
of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
btw, when I created a red cedar lamination, I soaked the 1/8" strips overni=
ght, then gradually formed them to their new shape without using any binder=
. I released the pieces from the form and after allowing them to dry, then =
glued them up (using thickened epoxy) and clamped them in position. Overall=
lamination was 10 layers with virtually no rebound effect after release.
....
> On that note, there seems to be some confusion about which bending=20
> technique is being used?
>=20
> "Bent lamination", as a method that does not usually involve steam;=20
> "steam bending is a different method/bending technique altogether.
I have steam bent parts for Windsor chairs, but this is strictly glueup.
I've glued up plies of =E2=85=9B" slats and clamped them to a robust form. =
The bendings are =E2=85=9E" for one shape and =E2=85=9D" for another.
An large proportion of the stock ends up as shavings, An 8/4 plank yields a=
=E2=85=9E" thick piece. That's a lot of waste for $9.50 per board foot.
On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 11:45:50 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
> I'd=20
> think if you could get a 180 degree bend without heat, then red cedar=20
> bends well, and the OP can forge ahead.
We don't know how long his boards/slats are.
The 180 degree value is not all you need to consider, no matter if steamed,=
heated only or watered only. What is the radius of the bend? A 180 deg=
ree curve in a 10' board/slat is "different" (Karl's tension notes), than a=
180 degree curve in a 10" board/slat.
Agreed. He probably is ok with bending his slats with no assistance.
Sonny
I guess I didn't make it clear that I've already made many bent laminations=
from both Honduras Mahogany and Red Grandis, and my source of the less exp=
ensive Red Grandis has shut down. What I wanted to know was if anyone had e=
xperience using Spanish Cedar for bent laminations.
Since the chairs are for outdoors, I need a suitable species. I'm consideri=
ng any less pricey, easily and nearby available alternatives.
For what it's worth, I've done lots of steam bending for Windsor chair part=
s. That's not what I need for this project.
On 5/31/2016 12:31 PM, Swingman wrote:
> IME, you should have no problem doing a bent lamination, as described,
> with red cedar.
Sorry, meant to type "Spanish cedar", not "red" ...
<the "s" thru "h" had fallen onto the floor, found them under the desk
for use below> lol
What I said still holds true.
On that note, there seems to be some confusion about which bending
technique is being used?
"Bent lamination", as a method that does not usually involve steam;
"steam bending is a different method/bending technique altogether.
IME, "bent lamination" should work fine for _Spanish_ cedar, however.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 6/3/2016 11:36 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 6/2/2016 9:05 PM, Sonny wrote:
>> On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 11:04:11 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
>
>>> I wonder if soaking in water helps any? My thought is wood bending
>>> requires heat, not water.
>>
>> Get a round tooth pick and break it in its middle, forming a "V",
>> i.e., leaving the halves/legs joined. Pinch the legs together and
>> stick the "break" on your tongue, to wet it, then place it on a flat
>> surface (table/counter top) and watch what happens.
> I don't have a tooth pick, but I'm listening... I assume the wood would
> swell some and bend a bit towards it's original position?
Basically, the wood in _tension_ on the bent toothpick broke; the wood
in _compression_ expanded after is elasticity was increased by moisture
content added by the tongue ... resulting in the toothpick's "leg's
moving apart.
Thereby illustrating that the moisture content (water) of the wood plays
a part in the bending of wood, not just heat.
When any board is bent, the wood on the outside (convex) side is put in
tension; the wood on the inside (concave side) is out in compression.
It's all about increasing the elasticity of the wood fibers on the
compressed side of any desired bend, which both a higher moisture
content and heat will provide.
Introducing both heat, and a higher moisture content (most effectively
done by the application of steam) increases the elasticity of the wood
fibers, and, most importantly for bending, those that will be in
compression (concave side), by roughly ten times, allowing a much
greater radius of bend than with a board with normal moisture content.
That, unfortunately, doesn't apply to the side in tension ... thus
ultimately limiting the radius of a bend before breaking ... just like
the toothpick.
IOW, anyone wanting to bend solid wood of any usable thickness, and
having it maintain the desired bend, will use both moisture and heat.
That said, this really doesn't apply to the OP, as his was about "bent
lamination", a totally different method of bending wood.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> I guess I didn't make it clear that I've already made many bent laminations from both Honduras Mahogany and Red Grandis, and my source of the less expensive Red Grandis has shut down. What I wanted to know was if anyone had experience using Spanish Cedar for bent laminations.
>
> Since the chairs are for outdoors, I need a suitable species. I'm considering any less pricey, easily and nearby available alternatives.
>
> For what it's worth, I've done lots of steam bending for Windsor chair parts. That's not what I need for this project.
Not really an answer to your question, but have you tried "lyptus",
which is a brand name for a farm-grown hybrid of eucalyptus grandis and
eucalyptus urophylla, marketed in the US by Weyerhauser?
Both my local suppliers have it for less than Spanish cedar.
Also, just a note in passing, Woodworker's Source is having a sale on
Red Grandis right now through I believe July 31.
On 5/31/2016 11:13 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
>
> If so, how does it behave? I'd like to make chair components using â
" slats glued to â
" thickness.
>
> Thanks ....
>
I have not done bent lam, but I found spanish cedar tough to work with
because it splits so easily.
Make sure it is good and steamed and rubbery .
--
Jeff
On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 11:04:11 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
>
> I wonder if soaking in water helps any? My thought is wood bending
> requires heat, not water.
Get a round tooth pick and break it in its middle, forming a "V", i.e., leaving the halves/legs joined. Pinch the legs together and stick the "break" on your tongue, to wet it, then place it on a flat surface (table/counter top) and watch what happens.
Sonny
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:52:04 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Tue, 31 May 2016 08:13:10 -0700 (PDT)
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
>
> no experience with spanish cedar what are the traits
>
> but what cedar i have used it seems very inflexible when completely
> dry
>
> i think the most recent cedar was some dry western red cedar
>
>
> have never tried bent laminations and i know steam allows amazing
> bends but have to have a steam setup of course
My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a member of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
On Tue, 31 May 2016 08:13:10 -0700 (PDT)
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
no experience with spanish cedar what are the traits
but what cedar i have used it seems very inflexible when completely
dry
i think the most recent cedar was some dry western red cedar
have never tried bent laminations and i know steam allows amazing
bends but have to have a steam setup of course
On Tue, 31 May 2016 10:50:32 -0700 (PDT)
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need wood for two more chairs, and I don't want to again the more
> expensive Honduras Mahogany. I haven't been able to find another
> source for the Red Grandis.
that honduran mahogany is really nice looking
surprised to know there is a eucalyptus that looks comparable
so you have six chairs and three different woods
seems like the last wood choice just needs to be close to one of the
other two
maybe it is time to repurpose some old furniture from the second
hand store or thrift store or garage sale or craigslist
[email protected] wrote:
>>>> Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
>>>
>> My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a
>> member of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
>
> Maybe some background is in order -
>
> The original plan was to make six garden chairs from Honduras
> Mahogany. We made the first two from Mahogany, and that was insanely
> expensive, so I looked for an alternative lumber.
African mahogany; specifically, Khaya ivorensis. Particuarly attractice
when quarter sawn (ribbon stripe). One source...
http://www.walllumber.com/premier.asp
Spanish cedar is a relative of mahogany but much softer. I've never bent it
but I wouldn't expect any problem were I so inclined.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 10:50:32 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
> I need wood for two more chairs, and I don't want to again the more
> expensive Honduras Mahogany. I haven't been able to find another source
> for the Red Grandis.
A friend made an Adirondack chair from Spanish cedar and it was
gorgeous. I've used it for the sound board on a hammered dulcimer and it
was beautiful there as well - finish was nothing but dewaxed shellac.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 17:38:19 -0700 (PDT)
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> When I look at them side-by-side, the Red Grandis has a redder cast
> and the Mahogany looks a bit more yellow. By the way, I think "Red
> Grandis" may be the commercial trade name the wood is marketed as.
i thought it might be
i have some blue gum but did not know there was a rose gum
> Normally, yes, but the chairs aren't all going to the same recipient.
> Two for me, two for a friend, and two for a friend's brother-in-law.
> They won't be seen together.
then that is a different situation
now you just need to find some wood suitable for the chair style
i see a lot of nice wood on craigslist and i know a lot never
goes up for sale
most pro tree trimmers have guys that take certain species and
make furniture or cabinetry
depends what is local on what you can find
but the big question is who gets the honduran mahogany chairs
On 5/31/2016 1:48 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> have never tried bent laminations and i know steam allows amazing
>>> bends but have to have a steam setup of course
>>
>> My understanding/recollection is that Spanish Cedar is actually a member of the Mahogany family,
>> not cedar...
>
> btw, when I created a red cedar lamination, I soaked the 1/8" strips overnight, then gradually
>formed them to their new shape without using any binder. I released the pieces from the form
>and after allowing them to dry, then glued them up (using thickened epoxy) and clamped them in
position. Overall lamination was 10 layers with virtually no rebound
effect after release.
I wonder if soaking in water helps any? My thought is wood bending
requires heat, not water. Steam is used because it gets the wood hot
w/o burning it. You can bend wood successfully with just a heat pipe,
although burning is a risk. Also, my thoughts are wood is fairly water
proof, and soaking, even thin strips, wouldn't penetrate much over
night. Soaking in boiling water would do wonders because it heats the
wood, elasticizing the "glue" that binds the wood fibers.
My experience with bending 1/8" strips is they generally bend easily, as
long as the bend is not severe, and the wood is fairly straight grained
and clear of knots. Severe bends I'd go for steam. Really severe and
I'd go with air dried, and steam.
Also, cherry looks a lot like mahogany I think, and it bends well.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 6/2/2016 9:05 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 11:04:11 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
>> I wonder if soaking in water helps any? My thought is wood bending
>> requires heat, not water.
>
> Get a round tooth pick and break it in its middle, forming a "V", i.e., leaving the halves/legs joined. Pinch the legs together and stick the "break" on your tongue, to wet it, then place it on a flat surface (table/counter top) and watch what happens.
I don't have a tooth pick, but I'm listening... I assume the wood would
swell some and bend a bit towards it's original position?
If you have a tooth pick, try soaking it in water overnight, then see if
it bends more before breaking. I'm not saying it will or won't, I'm just
curious. I do know to make wood really flexible, heat will do it, water
or not. Heat pipes are used for this sans water.
Very thin pieces of wood will bend on there own, to very tight radius.
For example, shavings from a plane curl up nicely. Thick stuff requires
heat, possibly because water alone will not seep in enough to soften the
stuff that glues the wood fibers together. I think this is particularly
true with kiln dried wood where the glue is really stiff, less so with
air dried or green wood.
Soaking a thin strip of cedar in water overnight probably would help,
particularly if the cedar were not kiln dried. Soaking wood in water
takes a really long time to penetrate the wood to any depth. A 3/4 inch
piece of wood soaked for days would likely not penetrate much at all, I
would think, and bending it would be unlikely.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 6/3/2016 8:31 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> My experience with bending 1/8" strips is they generally bend easily, as
>> long as the bend is not severe, and the wood is fairly straight grained
>> and clear of knots. Severe bends I'd go for steam. Really severe and
>> I'd go with air dried, and steam.
> I needed to create a near 180 degree bend. All I can tell you is that it worked for me...
That's a good bend. Was the wood green, air-dried or kiln dried? I'd
think if you could get a 180 degree bend without heat, then red cedar
bends well, and the OP can forge ahead.
--
Jack
An ounce of application is worth a ton of abstraction.
http://jbstein.com
On 06/03/2016 2:42 PM, [email protected] wrote:
...
> ... experience using Spanish Cedar for bent laminations.
...
Personally, no, but
<http://www.advantagelumber.com/spancedar.htm>
says it bends moderately well. I'd go check the US Forest Products Lab
site for the properties book as well if were wanting to know all there
is to be known--or check Hoadley...
--
On 6/3/2016 12:36 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 6/2/2016 9:05 PM, Sonny wrote:
>> Get a round tooth pick and break it in its middle, forming a "V",
>> i.e., leaving the halves/legs joined. Pinch the legs together and
>> stick the "break" on your tongue, to wet it, then place it on a flat
>> surface (table/counter top) and watch what happens.
>
> I don't have a tooth pick, but I'm listening... I assume the wood would
> swell some and bend a bit towards it's original position?
Was at a bar last night, got a hamburger and it had a long round tooth
pick stuck in it. I broke it in the middle and placed it in a wet spot
on the bar. Nothing happened at all. Placed it in a wet napkin, and
still, nothing happened... Next time I'll take it home and soak it
overnight and see if it will bend more before breaking.
--
Jack
Experience is what you get when you were expecting something else.
http://jbstein.com
> If you have a tooth pick, try soaking it in water overnight, then see if
> it bends more before breaking. I'm not saying it will or won't, I'm just
> curious. I do know to make wood really flexible, heat will do it, water
> or not. Heat pipes are used for this sans water.
>
> Very thin pieces of wood will bend on there own, to very tight radius.
> For example, shavings from a plane curl up nicely. Thick stuff requires
> heat, possibly because water alone will not seep in enough to soften the
> stuff that glues the wood fibers together. I think this is particularly
> true with kiln dried wood where the glue is really stiff, less so with
> air dried or green wood.
>
> Soaking a thin strip of cedar in water overnight probably would help,
> particularly if the cedar were not kiln dried. Soaking wood in water
> takes a really long time to penetrate the wood to any depth. A 3/4 inch
> piece of wood soaked for days would likely not penetrate much at all, I
> would think, and bending it would be unlikely.
>
On 5/31/2016 10:13 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
>
> If so, how does it behave? I'd like to make chair components using â
" slats glued to â
" thickness.
IME, you should have no problem doing a bent lamination, as described,
with red cedar.
But, don't take anyone's word for it. Do a couple of trial runs from a
batch representative of what you will be using.
Why? One of the issues can be springback, and that often varies with the
wood.
My bet is you'll be fine.
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On 5/31/2016 10:13 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Has anyone had experience of bent lamination of Spanish Cedar?
>
> If so, how does it behave? I'd like to make chair components using â
" slats glued to â
" thickness.
>
> Thanks ....
>
Alternatively, You can take an on line class for about $20.
http://ezine.woodworking.com/eZine/Craftsy-6-3-16.html