Blade tension

On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 21:23:26 -0400, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
>> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to determine
>> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due to
>> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
>> again.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>
>
>See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp
>
>You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.

On the other hand, Michael Fortune, also in Fine Woodworking, suggests
with a 1/2" blade, set the tension to the mark for 3/8" using your
your saw's tension gauge. In other words, less tension than Lonnie
Bird recommends is OK if your saw is otherwise set up correctly and
you feed the work through slow enough that the blade can clear out the
sawdust.

You probably need to be a paid online subscriber to view this:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055

In article <[email protected]>,
Puckdropper wrote:

> I set the side blocks by setting them to touch the blade and then back off
> a hair. It might be farther than the gauges would have set, but it works
> for me.

I have roller blocks on my Delta, and set them so they just barely turn
when there's no pressure other than tension on the blade.

--
"I'll do the stupid thing first and then you shy people follow..." - Frank Zappa

"Meanie" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to
> determine the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last
> blade broke due to it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make
> sure I don't do it again.
>
> Thanks
>
>

There's several methods for tensioning blades, and it depends on what
blade you're using as well as your saw. To summarize:

The "pluck" method: The blade is tensioned until there is a clear note
heard from the blade when it has been plucked with a finger.

The flutter method: The blade is set to some initial tension then the
saw is turned on. The tension is adjusted until the blade flutters then
stops fluttering. You'll have to do some reading on this, as this is
only a very basic description of the method. I believe Timber Wolf
blades recommend this method.

The "press" method: The blade is tensioned until pressing the blade
gently results in a certain amount of deflection.

Checking the gauge on the back might be effective as well, but the gauge
doesn't really measure anything. It essentally shows you how much your
spring is compressed, but not the pressure it's exerting on the blade.
If your saw is in good condition, there's no reason this won't work
properly.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 9/8/2012 9:23 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
>> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to
>> determine
>> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke
>> due to
>> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
>> again.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>
>
> See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp
>
> You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.


In 2007, GarageWoodworks wrote:

Pete,

Do you think it would be particularly difficult to make the tension
gauge in the picasaweb site? Seems like a nice project.

I was looking for ideas for a DIY band saw blade tensioner today and came
across this one:

http://picasaweb.google.com/vogeldp/BandSawTensionGauge

I think I am going to try and make it. It looks like the lower part of the
device pivots on a bar and the movement is measured by the dial indicator.
It looks like the bar would have to be exactly in the center to be
accurate.?. According to a FWW article I read, 5" of blade will stretch
0.001" for every 6,000 lbs of tension (over a 5" length of blade). For those
with a FWW account here is the article:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2702.
I don't like the one detailed in the article (I prefer a dial indicator over
feeler gauges).

Has anyone tried to make one of these before? Or have you made a better
one??

Thanks...

--
www.garagewoodworks.com

You may want to look at this version of Bird's commercial gauge.

Jim

Jim Weisgram <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> There's always feeler gauges.

I've seen suggestions (Either in Bird or Duginske's book) for using dollar
bills or other pieces such pieces of paper. I can't seem to remove the
"gauge" without messing up the adjustment.

I set the side blocks by setting them to touch the blade and then back off
a hair. It might be farther than the gauges would have set, but it works
for me.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 21:21:09 -0400, Meanie wrote:

> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to
> determine the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade
> broke due to it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I
> don't do it again.
>
> Thanks

This isn't complicated enough for most, just pluck the blade when it is
about the tune of E it is close, works for everything from 1/4" blades to
12" wide bandmill blades in a sawmill.

basilisk



--
A wink is as good as a nod to a blind horse

On 9/8/2012 10:44 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 21:23:26 -0400, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to determine
>>> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due to
>>> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
>>> again.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp
>>
>> You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.
>
> On the other hand, Michael Fortune, also in Fine Woodworking, suggests
> with a 1/2" blade, set the tension to the mark for 3/8" using your
> your saw's tension gauge. In other words, less tension than Lonnie
> Bird recommends is OK if your saw is otherwise set up correctly and
> you feed the work through slow enough that the blade can clear out the
> sawdust.
>
> You probably need to be a paid online subscriber to view this:
> http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055
>


Thanks for posting that! I do think he exaggerated a little at 5:15.
Not sure he is going to be able to discern 1 thou gap btw the blade and
guide bushing by eye.

On 9/11/2012 8:46 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> On 10 Sep 2012 19:41:56 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>> Jim Weisgram <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> There's always feeler gauges.
>>
>> I've seen suggestions (Either in Bird or Duginske's book) for using dollar
>> bills or other pieces such pieces of paper. I can't seem to remove the
>> "gauge" without messing up the adjustment.
>>
>> I set the side blocks by setting them to touch the blade and then back off
>> a hair. It might be farther than the gauges would have set, but it works
>> for me.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> Michael Fortune suggests cigarette paper rather than dollar bills.
> That may be splitting hairs as well.
>

Absolutely splitting hairs, Minimax and Laguna will tell you that you
can run their saws with out the side guides.

Jim Weisgram <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 10 Sep 2012 19:41:56 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>Jim Weisgram <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> There's always feeler gauges.
>>
>>I've seen suggestions (Either in Bird or Duginske's book) for using
>>dollar bills or other pieces such pieces of paper. I can't seem to
>>remove the "gauge" without messing up the adjustment.
>>
>>I set the side blocks by setting them to touch the blade and then back
>>off a hair. It might be farther than the gauges would have set, but
>>it works for me.
>>
>>Puckdropper
>
> Michael Fortune suggests cigarette paper rather than dollar bills.
> That may be splitting hairs as well.

Cigarette paper is close to 0.001" thick. Standard printing paper is ~
0.002" thick, and a dollar bill is a bit thicker. Not exactly
calibration standards, but machinists used to use cigarette paper to
check cutter clearance. You crank the cutter down/in until you can feel
it catch between the tool and the work, and that gets your zero plenty
close enough for most work.

Doug White

Doug White

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

On 9/8/2012 10:44 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 21:23:26 -0400, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to
>>> determine
>>> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due
>>> to
>>> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
>>> again.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp
>>
>> You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.
>
> On the other hand, Michael Fortune, also in Fine Woodworking, suggests
> with a 1/2" blade, set the tension to the mark for 3/8" using your
> your saw's tension gauge. In other words, less tension than Lonnie
> Bird recommends is OK if your saw is otherwise set up correctly and
> you feed the work through slow enough that the blade can clear out the
> sawdust.
>
> You probably need to be a paid online subscriber to view this:
> http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055
>


Thanks for posting that! I do think he exaggerated a little at 5:15.
Not sure he is going to be able to discern 1 thou gap btw the blade and
guide bushing by eye.
==============================================================================
Depends what he does for a living. I can.

On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to determine
> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due to
> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
> again.
>
> Thanks
>
>


See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp

You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.

On 9/8/2012 8:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to determine
> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due to
> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
> again.
>
> Thanks
>
>

What works for me is to start with the "built in" tension gauge on your
saw. Test cut, tighten a bit, test cut, is it better, worse?

As blades wear they require different settings. Use your built in gauge
as a starting point and tweak from there.

On 10 Sep 2012 19:41:56 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>Jim Weisgram <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> There's always feeler gauges.
>
>I've seen suggestions (Either in Bird or Duginske's book) for using dollar
>bills or other pieces such pieces of paper. I can't seem to remove the
>"gauge" without messing up the adjustment.
>
>I set the side blocks by setting them to touch the blade and then back off
>a hair. It might be farther than the gauges would have set, but it works
>for me.
>
>Puckdropper

Michael Fortune suggests cigarette paper rather than dollar bills.
That may be splitting hairs as well.

On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 08:35:11 -0600, Bruce wrote:

> I've come to realize that being super accurate is way overrated and once
> you have a blade tensioned properly as a reference, you can do it from
> now on using the 'pluck test' or deflection tests with perfectly
> acceptable results. -Bruce

Agreed - that's what I do. "Twang" is good, "plunk" is bad - but if the
blade hits high C it's too tight :-).

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 08:35:11 -0600, Bruce wrote:
>
>> I've come to realize that being super accurate is way overrated and once
>> you have a blade tensioned properly as a reference, you can do it from
>> now on using the 'pluck test' or deflection tests with perfectly
>> acceptable results. -Bruce
>
> Agreed - that's what I do. "Twang" is good, "plunk" is bad - but if the
> blade hits high C it's too tight :-).
>
Does that mean I need a blade tensioner AND a tuning fork? ; )

On 9/8/2012 6:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to determine
> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due to
> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
> again.
>
> Thanks
>
>
This method works just fine for the average saw and the average blade:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/power/bandsaw-blade-tension-flutter-method/

On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 23:15:54 -0400, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 9/8/2012 10:44 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
>> On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 21:23:26 -0400, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to determine
>>>> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke due to
>>>> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
>>>> again.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp
>>>
>>> You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.
>>
>> On the other hand, Michael Fortune, also in Fine Woodworking, suggests
>> with a 1/2" blade, set the tension to the mark for 3/8" using your
>> your saw's tension gauge. In other words, less tension than Lonnie
>> Bird recommends is OK if your saw is otherwise set up correctly and
>> you feed the work through slow enough that the blade can clear out the
>> sawdust.
>>
>> You probably need to be a paid online subscriber to view this:
>> http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055
>>
>
>
>Thanks for posting that! I do think he exaggerated a little at 5:15.
>Not sure he is going to be able to discern 1 thou gap btw the blade and
>guide bushing by eye.
There's always feeler gauges.

On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 18:46:22 -0700, Jim Weisgram
>Michael Fortune suggests cigarette paper rather than dollar bills.
>That may be splitting hairs as well.

Might be cheaper too. :)

On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 13:26:17 -0400, "Meanie" <[email protected]> wrote:

>>> I've come to realize that being super accurate is way overrated and once
>>> you have a blade tensioned properly as a reference, you can do it from
>>> now on using the 'pluck test' or deflection tests with perfectly
>>> acceptable results. -Bruce
>>
>> Agreed - that's what I do. "Twang" is good, "plunk" is bad - but if the
>> blade hits high C it's too tight :-).
>>
>Does that mean I need a blade tensioner AND a tuning fork? ; )

It just means that you have to become familiar with your band saw
enough to know when it's not tracking properly and the blade tension
needs some maintenance.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 04:00:10 -0600, Jim Artherholt wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> On 9/8/2012 9:23 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>> On 9/8/2012 9:21 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>> This may be a stupid question but how or what is the proper way to
>>> determine
>>> the correct blade tension on a bandsaw? I think my last blade broke
>>> due to
>>> it being too tight, but not certain. I want to make sure I don't do it
>>> again.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> See: http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00013.asp
>>
>> You can make a DIY version. Something on my 'to make' list.
>
>
> In 2007, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> Pete,
>
> Do you think it would be particularly difficult to make the tension
> gauge in the picasaweb site? Seems like a nice project.
>
> I was looking for ideas for a DIY band saw blade tensioner today and came
> across this one:
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/vogeldp/BandSawTensionGauge
>
> I think I am going to try and make it. It looks like the lower part of the
> device pivots on a bar and the movement is measured by the dial indicator.
> It looks like the bar would have to be exactly in the center to be
> accurate.?. According to a FWW article I read, 5" of blade will stretch
> 0.001" for every 6,000 lbs of tension (over a 5" length of blade). For those
> with a FWW account here is the article:
> http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2702.
> I don't like the one detailed in the article (I prefer a dial indicator over
> feeler gauges).
>
> Has anyone tried to make one of these before? Or have you made a better
> one??
>

I used this method for my Minimax and with 12" of blade exposed, I used a
dial indicator that measured down to 0.00001". With this resolution I could
get a clear reading of tension, then marked my saws tension scale (which was
reading wayyyy low). I really doubt a standard 0.001 dial gauge set at 5"
will provide much accuracy.
But.....

I've come to realize that being super accurate is way overrated and once you
have a blade tensioned properly as a reference, you can do it from now on
using the 'pluck test' or deflection tests with perfectly acceptable results.
-Bruce

> Thanks...
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
> You may want to look at this version of Bird's commercial gauge.
>
> Jim
>
>