Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
Here's mine:
Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
Your turn.
MJ
Co worker talked me into it. It is better than the Rotozip brand
for cutting drywall, but I still use a jab saw by choice - it's an
age thing ( I know where the saw blade is going and I have precise
control of it)! That DeWalt rotozip thing just lives in the box
totally unused.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a789e1c7-5603-4bd0-9fc6-8781e9578442@y17g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>I still use a guide to cut down sheet goods. Much handier for my
> style of work.
>
> The biggest waste of time and money I own is the DeWalt version
> of the
> Rotozip. One of my buddies bought one and convinced me you
> could use
> it for about anything.
>
> Quite the opposite is true. I tried to cut 3/8" plywood with
> it, and
> got smoke with the proper bits. I tried to used it as a
> laminate
> trimmer, and not enough torque. I don't need the mess it makes
> to cut
> a hole or two in sheetrock.
>
> However, it was a Christmas gift, so it is still with us. It
> sits on
> the shelf, unused unopened for about the last 8 - 10 years.
>
> What a waste.
>
> Robert
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
>We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
>What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
>2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
>Here's mine:
>
>Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
>over
>$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
>Your turn.
>
>MJ
I think I have one of those - along with a "trim tramp"
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 00:48:09 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland
>>> Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon
>>> literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was
>>> interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his
>>> money!)
>>>
>>> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are
>>> in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
>>> looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with
>>> never a saw mounted on it yet.
>>>
>>> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
>>> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>>>
>>>
> I have this one and it's awesome.
> http://xrl.us/mitersawstand
I have one from HF that is similar. It has more pull out supports. I
wouldn't give up this table.
Paul T.
On Mar 27, 1:32=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:6c0720d1-202e-4378-a7c2-1454938fe0a0@n20g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Ok, here's my contribution to =A0more woodworking set of topics:
>
> > We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> > What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> > 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> > Here's mine:
>
> > Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> > over
> > $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
> > Your turn.
>
> > MJ
>
> Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" =A0and the "wh=
at
> you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more tha=
n
> once.
>
> I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. =A0=
My
> first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. =A0My next one made by Festool wi=
ll
> come with a Festool circular saw. =A0That guide is stupid easy, conveinen=
t,
> and probably more than what you would expect from a guide.
>
> After that
>
> PC Detail Sander tops the list.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Just made the same thing for my jigsaw, a narrow strip
of 3/4" ply screwed to a wider strip of 3/8" ply, cut the edges
off with the jigsaw, line the sole side with several strips
of friction tape. Cost was three minutes' digging through
the scrap bin for material. Works perfectly. Hold down against
the line to be cut and saw, no time wasted looking for and
setting up clamps -- less really is more. This device WILL
get used frequently.
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in news:6c0720d1-
[email protected]:
> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> over
> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
> Your turn.
>
> MJ
I think the HF nailer was one of my most disappointing. It often failed
to advance the nails at random times, often resulting in damage to the
wood. The bottle of oil that was included had what looked to be a spout
on it, and when you turned around the spout and punctured it the seal
would be permanently broken and oil free to spill all over.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
My plywood cutting guide story.
I needed a saw guide of some kind and asked the guy at my local lumber yard
what he reccommended. He told me about a special order item that would work.
I bought it and went in and paid for it. The manager went nuts on me because
I did not prepay for it. I told me to chill out and just take my money. When
that didn't work, I walked away. That got his attention. I paid and left.
I got it home and set it up on a sheet of plywood. I made several cuts with
it. Then when I went to assemble the plywood, none of the surfaces mated
well. I checked them and they were not straight! I picked up the guide and
looked down it. It had a nice curve right in the middle. At least an inch
and half dip right in the middle of this extruded aluminum saw guide.
I took it back and showed this to the manager of this local lumber yard. He
informed me since this was a special order item, he couldn't do anything for
me. I told him that I liked it. I just wanted a straight guide and I would
be happy. He told me to go home and straighten it out! (That didn't work)
I wasted money on this thing. I ruined some plywood. I lost a bunch of time.
I never went back there again. He lost thousands of dollars worth of
business from me. I told this story to as many people as I could. I know of
several people who decided they would get their lumber elsewhere after
hearing this story.
They are out of business now. I wonder why. Good riddance.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>>
>> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>>
>> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2)
>> ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>>
>
> That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer.
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
I have one of those......somewhere.
Max
On 2010-03-27 15:57:52 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> said:
> I wasted money on this thing. I ruined some plywood. I lost a bunch of
> time. I never went back there again. He lost thousands of dollars worth
> of business from me. I told this story to as many people as I could. I
> know of several people who decided they would get their lumber
> elsewhere after hearing this story.
Survey says: A satisfied customers shares his experience with three
others. A dissatisfied customer tells ten others...
"Swingman" wrote
>
> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>
Was this because Laguna or Festool didn't offer a miter saw stand?
"Nonny" wrote:
> I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most
> accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2"
> plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the
> shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all
> instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws.
>
> To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and
> make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts
> being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long
> as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine.
> First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as
> possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a
> straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of
> the board.
>
> On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you
> have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one
> of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the
> line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move
> when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make it and
> extend the length of the plywood.
>
> Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place
> its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from
> the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using.
> Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on
> the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw, just do
> that other side with the same saw, or with a different blade. For
> instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the other with a
> pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally use.
>
> Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board
> will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To
> use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to
> go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be
> clean and your accuracy will be improved.
-----------------
http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt
Lew
"Nonny" wrote:
>> http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt
>>
>
> Yup, that's the same thing Lew, except that in the ones I built
> there were two sides for 2 saws. It's one of the most handy
> jigs/tools you can make for a shop and well worth the half hour or
> so it takes to make one.
------------------------------------------
That goes without saying.
"Waste not, want not", as my German immigrant, great aunt often said.
I used one edge for my panel saw, the other for my 690 equipped with a
3/4" straight router bit.
Lew
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:38:41 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted
>my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
>what it looked like before he spent his money!)
Dang that Leon guy eh? Do the smart thing. Wrap it up and give it to
him for a birthday or Christmas present.
:)
On Mar 27, 1:24=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Ok, here's my contribution to =A0more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> over
> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
> Your turn.
>
> MJ
My worst tool buy was a Skill 1/4 sheet orbital sander. The spring
loaded clamps which were used to mount the sandpaper were better
suited to break finger nails, and vibrate the nrves in your arm.
Finally just tossed it.
Note to Swingman;
The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of
those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens
them enough to squeeze them on.
Joe G
On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
>>> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally
>>> twisted my
>>> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
>>> what
>>> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>>>
>>> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
>>> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
>>> looking for
>>> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
>>> mounted on it yet.
>>>
>>> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
>>> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>>>
>
> I have this one and it's awesome.
> http://xrl.us/mitersawstand
One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of
reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but
loves it.
I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the
best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport.
Mine is shop made and a PITA to move, but works well when stationary,
which is what it is designed for, although it works well onsite on a
couple of sawhorses. Takes up too much room in the shop though.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 3/28/2010 5:36 AM, Upscale wrote:
> On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:38:41 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted
>> my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
>> what it looked like before he spent his money!)
>
> Dang that Leon guy eh? Do the smart thing. Wrap it up and give it to
> him for a birthday or Christmas present.
>
> :)
Have tried similar ploys with Leon ... he just gives it right back to
you on your next birthday/Christmas.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Your turn.
>
> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>
> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for
> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
> mounted on it yet.
>
> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>
> It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! :)
>
> --
With *that* sales pitch??? Nah, I think I'll pass.
BTW, chuck my vote in on the triangular head detail sander/hand buzzer...
jc
"GROVER" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:992d3e3c-79d9-47d7-824e-a98fd66fa9b0@k19g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 27, 1:24 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> over
> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
> Your turn.
>
> MJ
My worst tool buy was a Skill 1/4 sheet orbital sander. The spring
loaded clamps which were used to mount the sandpaper were better
suited to break finger nails, and vibrate the nrves in your arm.
Finally just tossed it.
Note to Swingman;
The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of
those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens
them enough to squeeze them on.
Naw those things were pretty HD, IIRC about 1/4" thick there was not going
to be any rolling. ;~) He did get to use them as guards. He put one on
the end of his BS fence front guide. Another made a handy glue brush water
container.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Your turn.
>
> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>
> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for
> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
> mounted on it yet.
>
> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>
> It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! :)
Hey watt can'I sayyy. It dent look like the pisher. ;~)
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Nonny" wrote:
>
>> I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most
>> accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used
>> 1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for
>> the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2'
>> long. In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular
>> saws.
>>
>> To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length
>> and make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the
>> cuts being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is
>> as long as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick.
>> Approximation is fine. First, run it through a joiner to get
>> one edge as square and true as possible. Then, rip along the
>> trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the thickness
>> of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board.
>>
>> On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing
>> you have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply
>> glue to one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place
>> it along the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure
>> it doesn't move when drying. The strip should be as straight
>> as you can make it and extend the length of the plywood.
>>
>> Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw,
>> place its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess
>> plywood from the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade
>> you are using. Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the
>> same thing with it on the other side of the strip. If you will
>> only use one saw, just do that other side with the same saw, or
>> with a different blade. For instance, one side could be with a
>> combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut,
>> depending on what you normally use.
>>
>> Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting
>> board will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or
>> crosscut. To use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for
>> where the cut is to go and just grab your saw. There's no
>> guess work, the cut will be clean and your accuracy will be
>> improved.
>
> -----------------
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt
>
Yup, that's the same thing Lew, except that in the ones I built
there were two sides for 2 saws. It's one of the most handy
jigs/tools you can make for a shop and well worth the half hour or
so it takes to make one.
--
Nonny
Suppose you were an idiot.
And suppose you were a member
of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.'
-Mark Twain
.
On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Your turn.
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted
my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
what it looked like before he spent his money!)
Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking
for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
mounted on it yet.
<Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Your turn.
>
> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>
> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for
> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
> mounted on it yet.
>
> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>
> It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! :)
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 10/22/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
I've Ridgid's/Rigid's MSUV (Mitre Saw Utility Vehicle, or something like
that) and I can't say enough good things about it. Sturdy, breaks down/moves
easily, never had a prob with it. If I hadn't built a rolling cart for my
yellow planer, I'd buy one for it as well.
[email protected] wrote:
> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> over
> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
> Your turn.
>
> MJ
1) Sears pad sander. Got it before I started woodworking. Tried using it
to re-finish a cabinet. It vibrated lots, made my hand numb, but didn't
really sand wood. I almost didn't get my PC ROS because I was convinced
that electric sanders were worthless.
2) PC detail sander, used it a few times and decided it just didn't do all
that much.
3) Sheet handling jig from Woodworkers Supply. It looked like a good idea
-- I loaded a sheet of plywood on it, as I went to re-orient, the sheet
twisted, broke loose, and bent up several parts of the jig. To their
credit, WWS took it back, I was only out the cost of shipping.
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
I still use a guide to cut down sheet goods. Much handier for my
style of work.
The biggest waste of time and money I own is the DeWalt version of the
Rotozip. One of my buddies bought one and convinced me you could use
it for about anything.
Quite the opposite is true. I tried to cut 3/8" plywood with it, and
got smoke with the proper bits. I tried to used it as a laminate
trimmer, and not enough torque. I don't need the mess it makes to cut
a hole or two in sheetrock.
However, it was a Christmas gift, so it is still with us. It sits on
the shelf, unused unopened for about the last 8 - 10 years.
What a waste.
Robert
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
>We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
>What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
>2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
>Here's mine:
>
>Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
>over
>$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
>Your turn.
>
>MJ
Xmas gift of a B&D electric adjustable cresent wrench. Total piece of
crap other then watching the jaw go in and out.
Mike M
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6c0720d1-202e-4378-a7c2-1454938fe0a0@n20g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> over
> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>
> Your turn.
>
> MJ
Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" and the "what
you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than
once.
I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. My
first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. My next one made by Festool will
come with a Festool circular saw. That guide is stupid easy, conveinent,
and probably more than what you would expect from a guide.
After that
PC Detail Sander tops the list.
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 21:09:50 +0000 (UTC), the infamous Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>>
>> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>>
>> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2)
>> ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>>
>
>That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer.
Isn't one of those doodads one of the least used attachments to the HF
Multifunction tool, guys? Leetle triangulah sandah?
--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-
On 3/27/10 1:32 PM, Leon wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:6c0720d1-202e-4378-a7c2-1454938fe0a0@n20g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>>
>> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>>
>> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
>> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>>
>> Here's mine:
>>
>> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
>> over
>> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
>>
>> Your turn.
>>
>> MJ
>
> Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" and the "what
> you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than
> once.
>
> I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. My
> first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. My next one made by Festool will
> come with a Festool circular saw. That guide is stupid easy, conveinent,
> and probably more than what you would expect from a guide.
>
> After that
>
> PC Detail Sander tops the list.
>
Got the Dremel Detail Sander, rather use a piece of sandpaper in my hand.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2)
> ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 3/27/10 5:09 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>>
>> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>>
>> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2)
>> ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>>
>
> That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer.
>
Looks like all detail sanders suck. PC, Ryobi, and my Dremel, any more
votes for these useless tools.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 3/27/2010 5:44 PM, Nonny wrote:
>
> "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most accurate
> cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2" plywood for a
> couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the shorter ones. As I
> recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all instances, I sized them
> for BOTH of my circular saws.
>
> To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and make
> the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts being too
> straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long as the plywood
> and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine. First, run it
> through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as possible. Then,
> rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the
> thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board.
>
> On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you have
> in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one of the
> 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the line. Sight
> along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move when drying. The
> strip should be as straight as you can make it and extend the length of
> the plywood.
>
> Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place its
> base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from the side.
> Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using. Then, if you want
> to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on the other side of the
> strip. If you will only use one saw, just do that other side with the
> same saw, or with a different blade. For instance, one side could be
> with a combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending
> on what you normally use.
>
> Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board will
> act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To use it,
> clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to go and just
> grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be clean and your
> accuracy will be improved.
You worked too hard at it. Whole thing is made of one sheet of plywood
and a few screws.
Mark the factory edges so that you don't lose track of them later. Cut
a strip off one edge of the plywood about a foot wide. Now clamp the
strip so that you can use its factory edge as a guide to clean up the
edge you just cut (like cut a quarter inch or so off of it. Now move it
and cut off a strip two or so inches wide. Now lay that strip on the
plywood flush with the edge (unless you want a double-sided guide, in
which case set it back however far you need). Glue and screw the narrow
strip down, pressing it tightly against the clamped strip so that the
factory edge keeps it straight. When the glue dries, cut the the
completed guide off the plywood using the narrow strip to guide the saw.
If you're making a double sided guide, trim the other side, and you're
done.
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 21:09:50 +0000 (UTC), the infamous Larry Blanchard
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>>>
>>> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>>>
>>> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2)
>>> ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>>>
>>
>>That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer.
>
> Isn't one of those doodads one of the least used attachments to the HF
> Multifunction tool, guys? Leetle triangulah sandah?
'Tis. I believe I still have some of the original sandpaper triangles that
came with my Fein. Blades, OTOH ...
>> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
>> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
>> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
>> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>>
>> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
>> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for
>> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
>> mounted on it yet.
>>
>> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
>> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>>
I have this one and it's awesome.
http://xrl.us/mitersawstand
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
[With apologies to MJ because I accidentally sent 1st response directly
to him.]
Back in '75 I bought a B&D circular saw and a B&D jig saw - and I still
have both. I've probably used the circular saw 4 or 5 times and the jig
saw only once.
Bought 'em because they were cheap and don't use 'em because they're
/too/ cheap. Their primary value is as reminders to not repeat that mistake.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On 3/28/10 8:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland
>>>> Woodworking
>>>> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally
>>>> twisted my
>>>> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
>>>> what
>>>> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>>>>
>>>> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels
>>>> are in
>>>> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
>>>> looking for
>>>> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
>>>> mounted on it yet.
>>>>
>>>> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
>>>> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>>>>
>>
>> I have this one and it's awesome.
>> http://xrl.us/mitersawstand
>
> One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of
> reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but
> loves it.
>
> I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the
> best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport.
>
Yeah, soon after pinching my hand *once,* I fell in love with it.
The best part is the shock that takes all the weight of the saw falling
down when it folds up. I added a couple casters to the top/handle end,
so it would roll, flat, into my minivan.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:05:55 -0500, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Co worker talked me into it. It is better than the Rotozip brand
>for cutting drywall, but I still use a jab saw by choice - it's an
>age thing ( I know where the saw blade is going and I have precise
>control of it)! That DeWalt rotozip thing just lives in the box
>totally unused.
The RotoZip has one advantage over typical saws in that its depth can be
precisely set. I have a drain line repair on the honeydew list (screw
penetrated the PVC drain line, I think) where the RotoZip will come in handy.
I can set the bit to precisely so I don't make more of a mess of the pipes in
the wall than the builder already has.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most
accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used
1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for
the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long.
In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws.
To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and
make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts
being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long
as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is
fine. First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square
and true as possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8"
in, making a straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by
the length of the board.
On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you
have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to
one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along
the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't
move when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make
it and extend the length of the plywood.
Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place
its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from
the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using.
Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it
on the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw,
just do that other side with the same saw, or with a different
blade. For instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the
other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally
use.
Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board
will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To
use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is
to go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will
be clean and your accuracy will be improved.
--
Nonny
Suppose you were an idiot.
And suppose you were a member
of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.'
-Mark Twain
.
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:28:02 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
>>>> or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally
>>>> twisted my
>>>> arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
>>>> what
>>>> it looked like before he spent his money!)
>>>>
>>>> Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
>>>> an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
>>>> looking for
>>>> a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
>>>> mounted on it yet.
>>>>
>>>> <Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
>>>> know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!>
>>>>
>>
>> I have this one and it's awesome.
>> http://xrl.us/mitersawstand
>
>One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of
>reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but
>loves it.
>
>I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the
>best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport.
>
>Mine is shop made and a PITA to move, but works well when stationary,
>which is what it is designed for, although it works well onsite on a
>couple of sawhorses. Takes up too much room in the shop though.
I have a Dewalt stand for my (HF) SCMS[*] It's rather nice and a couple of
extra flanges makes it simple matter to change tools. I also have the Delta
stand that I use for my DW735 planer.
[*] It's on the replacement short list
On 3/27/2010 7:00 PM, GROVER wrote:
> Note to Swingman;
> The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of
> those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens
> them enough to squeeze them on.
Not in this case ... you'd have better luck getting a hammer handle up a
gnats ass.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
[email protected] wrote:
> Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
>
> We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:
>
> What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
> 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
> over
> $100 and I only used it once. I still have it.
Same here. An Exact-a-Cut...big T square with a plate that can be
positioned along T square, mount saw/router on plate, shove saw/router along
being mating guides on T square and aluminum extrusion mounted to another
piece of ply upon which the one being cut sits.
Worked well enough but takes too much room. Not having a table saw at the
time, I found room. Used it to build my kitchen cabinets, not since. Cost
$180 in 1995. I'd sell it if I could find a sucker...er, buyer. I'll look
for one someday.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico