I have an old slide-in camper on my Ford pickup.
The camper is mostly made of 3/4" plywood. I am renovating this
camper, structurally reinforcing it. It stays on the pickup full time,
so is subject to a lot of little vibrations, wiggles, twists, etc.
As part of my renovation, I am putting some 3/4" long zinc plated wood
screws....into the plywood.
The screws were installed last week. What would be a good equivalent
to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
of the wood? I could partially or totally remove these screws to apply
some kind of anchoring goop on the screw or into the screw hole.
Thank you..... Lee Carkenord
I see two issues....
First, zinc plated screws will rust. You'll want to use
hot-dipped-galvanized screws or better yet, stainless steel. Any of
your local "big-name" hardware stores will have these in stock and in
any size you'll want.
And b) there are no adhesives for use on the threads in wood. Wood
moves, it shrinks in dry weather, expands in wet and warps, cracks and
twists inbetween.
My suggestion would be to use a good "marine grade" epoxy glue. This
way the screws are just holding things together until the epoxy sets.
Woody
[email protected] wrote:
> I have an old slide-in camper on my Ford pickup.
>
> The camper is mostly made of 3/4" plywood. I am renovating this
> camper, structurally reinforcing it. It stays on the pickup full time,
> so is subject to a lot of little vibrations, wiggles, twists, etc.
>
> As part of my renovation, I am putting some 3/4" long zinc plated wood
> screws....into the plywood.
>
> The screws were installed last week. What would be a good equivalent
> to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
> of the wood? I could partially or totally remove these screws to apply
> some kind of anchoring goop on the screw or into the screw hole.
>
> Thank you..... Lee Carkenord
I've had the same issues with a replacement wooden frame for an
aluminum camper (original frame ended up shearing apart and even
professional heli-arc re-welding wouldn't hold).
Woody got it right. No screw in wood will hold under the kind of
action you'll get in a truck camper, IMO. Glue the sucker together,
use screws to hold until glue sets. Gorilla Glue isn't as good as
marine grade epoxy, but the glued wood-wood joints have lasted 6 years
of off-road abusive in my camper, so it's good enough.
Regards.
On 26 Apr 2006 20:40:29 -0700, "Anonymous" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I see two issues....
>
>First, zinc plated screws will rust. You'll want to use
>hot-dipped-galvanized screws or better yet, stainless steel. Any of
>your local "big-name" hardware stores will have these in stock and in
>any size you'll want.
>
>And b) there are no adhesives for use on the threads in wood. Wood
>moves, it shrinks in dry weather, expands in wet and warps, cracks and
>twists inbetween.
>
>My suggestion would be to use a good "marine grade" epoxy glue. This
>way the screws are just holding things together until the epoxy sets.
>
>
>Woody
If you really want to do this right, my suggestion would be to forget the
wood screws and drive threaded inserts into the plywood, and then use
machine screws with loc-tite and a lock washer. A lot of people use brass
threaded inserts, but I like the tapered kind that drive with an allen
wrench because they almost always go in straight.
Glenn
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have an old slide-in camper on my Ford pickup.
>
> The camper is mostly made of 3/4" plywood. I am renovating this
> camper, structurally reinforcing it. It stays on the pickup full time,
> so is subject to a lot of little vibrations, wiggles, twists, etc.
>
> As part of my renovation, I am putting some 3/4" long zinc plated wood
> screws....into the plywood.
>
> The screws were installed last week. What would be a good equivalent
> to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
> of the wood? I could partially or totally remove these screws to apply
> some kind of anchoring goop on the screw or into the screw hole.
>
> Thank you..... Lee Carkenord
>
How about using a poly glue (like gorilla glue). I think it will glue metal
to wood.
I would experiment with it and one of the screws you will be using. I
wouldn't
use to much glue because of the way it foams.
Ted
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have an old slide-in camper on my Ford pickup.
>
> The camper is mostly made of 3/4" plywood. I am renovating this
> camper, structurally reinforcing it. It stays on the pickup full time,
> so is subject to a lot of little vibrations, wiggles, twists, etc.
>
> As part of my renovation, I am putting some 3/4" long zinc plated wood
> screws....into the plywood.
>
> The screws were installed last week. What would be a good equivalent
> to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
> of the wood? I could partially or totally remove these screws to apply
> some kind of anchoring goop on the screw or into the screw hole.
>
> Thank you..... Lee Carkenord
>
On 26 Apr 2006 19:56:51 -0700, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have an old slide-in camper on my Ford pickup.
>
>The camper is mostly made of 3/4" plywood. I am renovating this
>camper, structurally reinforcing it. It stays on the pickup full time,
>so is subject to a lot of little vibrations, wiggles, twists, etc.
>
>As part of my renovation, I am putting some 3/4" long zinc plated wood
>screws....into the plywood.
>
>The screws were installed last week. What would be a good equivalent
>to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
>of the wood? I could partially or totally remove these screws to apply
>some kind of anchoring goop on the screw or into the screw hole.
>
>Thank you..... Lee Carkenord
Several fellows have recommended epoxy, and that's all well and good; but it's
gonna be a bear to remove those screws later if the need arises. I'd suggest a
cyanoacrylate like Hot Stuff, Zap, or the more heavily advertised Krazy Glue. It
sticks metal to wood pretty well, and I find if you tap the end of the
screwdriver with a mallet while it's engaged in the screw, it'll come out pretty
easily.
[email protected] wrote:
> What would be a good equivalent
> to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
> of the wood?
Use coarse thread, stainless steel, sheet metal screws and epoxy.
Drill pilot holes first, say 80% of the thread OD, butter holes with
epoxy, then insert screws.
Lew
[email protected] wrote:
> I have an old slide-in camper on my Ford pickup.
>
> The camper is mostly made of 3/4" plywood. I am renovating this
> camper, structurally reinforcing it. It stays on the pickup full time,
> so is subject to a lot of little vibrations, wiggles, twists, etc.
>
> As part of my renovation, I am putting some 3/4" long zinc plated wood
> screws....into the plywood.
>
> The screws were installed last week. What would be a good equivalent
> to Loctite to put on these screws so they don't appreciably "back-out"
> of the wood? I could partially or totally remove these screws to apply
> some kind of anchoring goop on the screw or into the screw hole.
>
> Thank you..... Lee Carkenord
>
epoxy.
Dave