Ping - Bill in Indiana

*Fully rigged: Even has a pencil sharpener on the extension table.

Here's another auction in Indy. I can't tell what brand tablesaw is
pictured. There's a Powermatic jointer and some other tools, also.
Might be worth checking out.

Heimel Happenings -On Site Tool Auction! March 31st:
http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctionlist.cgi?txtSearchZip=46201&txtSearchRadius=30&idxSearchCategory=0&gid=0&year=2012&month=3&day=31&txtSearchKeywords=

If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 14:08:19 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On 3/9/2012 11:05 AM, Sonny wrote:
>> Bill, sometime ago you were looking for a table saw. Did you possibly
>> have an interest in a jointer, also? Here's one near you.
>> http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.AdvSearchResults&myseller=2183
>>
>> Might be worth going inspect it. 3 days left for bidding and no one
>> has bid on it, yet.
>
> Thank you very much C-Sonny! I found out that it is 3-phase. This
>rules it out for me, but perhaps someone else near Indianapolis is
>interested. It looks like a "fun" project at a potentially bargain price!

Bill, a phase converter can be built for well under $100 if you have
the spare parts, or a new one can be purchased for $160 from AmaGriz.
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5840-Static-Phase-Converter/dp/B0000DD4LL

--
Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened.

Call the auctioneer and ask if the tools have been removed from there
or if there is an easy exit for removal. Click onto the "auction
listing" prompt/tab, there is a phone number on the listings page.
Also, read the auction listing.... there's a few comments regarding
condition of the tools, but I advise to go inspect them, unless you go
early, the day of the auction, to inspect. I would think there is an
access to the exterior, other than those stairs. That shop doesn't
look large enough to accommodate the auction staff, the bidders,
onlookers, etc.

I don't think it's an estate sale, which often sells items in there
household location. I would think the tools may be either removed
from the shop by the auction personell or they will make accomodations
to remove them for you. If you were required to remove them, who is
liable for any damage that may be caused by removing from those
(possible cramped, and accident prone?) quarters.

The jointer is an 8", i.e., the fence is 4" high.... might go for
$500, probably less. (I have an 8" Powermatic, bought for $600 -
used.) Go inspect it. If the auctioneer can't make arrangemnts for
you to view the tools, call the owner, if you can, and make
arrangements with him. They should be available for inspecting prior
to the auction... go early.

The tablesaw: You can always upgrade the motor when conveinent and if
need be. Looks like the owner kept his tools in good shape, as should
be. He may have been more than just a hobbyist. I wouldn't be
surprised if the saw went for at least $300-$400.... but, if you're
lucky, maybe no serious bidders will show up. I've seen similar saws,
at our state auction, go for as low as $150.

Don't buy just to buy....i.e., don't get caught up in the auction
frenzy. Allot yourself the money for only what you want to pay, for a
particular tool, and compare your pay allowance against a reasonable
value of the tool. If the tool's estimated value falls within you
budget, then bid to your allowance max an no more.

Being an aggressive/eager bidder, while the bidding is still well
within your budget, might scare off other bidders, too, hence you may
get the item for cheaper, as compared to bidder who is timid.

When the bidding starts (by a bidder, not by the auctioneer's
suggested opening price), you start bidding, too. Don't wait until
the bidding rises. At some auctions, if you don't begin at the start,
you're not allowed to enter the bidding arena once the price rises
significantly. *If you are the only bidder, then bid once, of course!

The auctioneer may try to start the bidding, say, for the tablesaw, at
$200 or $300. Don't bite, don't respond.... unless someone else does
and that bid is within your budget. By being silent, initially, you
can often times force auctioneer to reduce the starting bid....*Note
what the "auction listing" page says, the tools will be sold, no
matter what the lowest bid. If no bidder responds initially, in any
way, to the auctioneers opening asking price, and the auctioneer
doesn't quickly reduce his opening price, then you offer a price, just
shout it out.... $50 for the tablesaw.... see what happens, then go
from there. This is not a Sotheby's high-end art auction, so don't be
formal.

If you don't spend your whole allowance, bid on other tools. There's
lots of nice tools in that shop.

Sonny

And there is obviously a Reserve on this saw, which hasn't been met,
yet. I would suspect the reserve may be about $100, possibly as much
as $200 (but I doubt this much). If the reserve would be a nearly
$200, then the starting bid would have been higher.

Sonny

It's three phase and may not work, per the question at the bottom of the
page.

On 3/9/2012 11:05 AM, Sonny wrote:
> Bill, sometime ago you were looking for a table saw. Did you possibly
> have an interest in a jointer, also? Here's one near you.
> http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.AdvSearchResults&myseller=2183
>
> Might be worth going inspect it. 3 days left for bidding and no one
> has bid on it, yet.
>
> Sonny

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> "Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Sonny wrote:
> > *Fully rigged: Even has a pencil sharpener on the extension table.
>
> : )
>
> That saw looks like a monster... 7.5 HP! For my purposes, an
> unnecessarily powerful TS seems like more of a liability than an asset.
>
> ************************************
> There is no such thing as too powerful of a table saw. Wait till you want
> to rip a thick piece of hard wood, or a piece of treated rough wood, or
> something. Also, when you cut dados.
>
> You will want all the HP you can afford to buy. No way can it be a
> liability. That goes along with the idea that a dull tool (or low HP tool)
> is a dangerous tool. The opposite sharp and high HP comparison can also be
> made.

For me it would be a liability. I really don't want to try to persuade
Connecticut Light and Power to run 3-phase to my basement.

Bill wrote:

>
> Yes, I'm still looking. I look on craigslist all the time. I'm still
> in the "workshop preparation" phase though so i'm not desperate yet.
> I had not been looking for a "big project" in a TS, but things change.
> My shop is wired for 55W capacity (60 Amp CB'er)--that was a "big
> project" : )

I'm sure that's a typo above. But even then Bill - you are over analyzing
this stuff.

>
> Grizzly-0690 TS runs 20A and is $1475, including shipping. Lights are
> up to about 6 amps (eleven T8 fixtures) Dust collection and perhaps
> ambient dust collection = XX amps, heater = XX amps? It's may be nice
> to leave some capacity on the table for whatever the future holds!

Or perhaps, or perhaps, or perhaps. Just do it Bill! You'll spend all of
your life examining things that just don't matter and then you'll miss out
on all the fun of just getting to work with this stuff. Half the people
here have what you do for a service, or less - and they're making sawdust.
You can do it too.

>
> A nice 10-20 year old Delta Unisaw would probably suit me fine (est.
> $750-$1200). A new one can be had for about $2518 from Amazon, after
> rebate, including shipping. That is tempting, but may not make that
> much sense (for a hobbiest). SWMBO, who bought new cars on credit
> before she married me, says "Get whichever one you want." ...lol!
>

If that saw would serve you nicely, then Sonny's suggestion could equally
serve you nicely - if that's a saw that you actually like. Frankly - you
could find an old Craftsman Model 10 for around $100 that would offer you a
great woodworking experience, and provide for your needs for a longggggggg
time. Just tune it up, plug it in, and use it. Ooops - there's that use it
thing again...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

April 7th. Pictures may be forthcoming, so check the site later in
the week.

http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctionview.cgi?lid=1400560&kwd=&zip=46201&category=0

Bill wrote:

>
> Yes, I've thought of that. Based upon my experiences thus far, I
> harbor no great love of running a table saw. I thought a cabinet saw
> would
> provide me the best experience.
>

It would - if you're going to be doing certain things, but don't sell a
table saw short. Many of us use them, have build extensions for them, etc.,
and have turned out fine cabinetry with them. They have their drawbacks,
but everything does.


> Please don't confuse my long posts with lack of learning.

Would never suggest such a thing Bill.

> This week I
> learned a lot about miter saws--and I didn't post one question about
> them here--yet! : ) I did narrow it down to a DeWalt 716, if I was
> buying one today. Now that I know a little, I can perhaps make more
> of the time I spend at auctions and pawn shops...I haven't visited one of
> those in a while.
>

Well - there's nothing wrong with setting one's mind on a particular tool.
Sometimes it's kinda like finding that perfect woman.

I own the one I do because I bought a group of tools off of a guy that had
to sell. I really only wanted the drill press, but I bought a table saw, a
compound miter, the drill press and a band saw for $300. Turned around and
sold the table saw, kept the drill press and the compound miter, and gave
the bandsaw to my son. The compound miter does it's job, but it's not one I
would have gone out and bought if I were looking for one.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

How about this, then: Lot #12 Grizzly Tablesaw -
http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg=details&id=15802

Though it's 3 phase, this is an investment kind of purchase, not an
off-the-shelf kind of purchase. 7 days to the end of the auction, so
the bidding is likely to go up. Despite 3 Ph, it might be worth
paying attention to if the bidding remains low. This saw is,
essentially, fully rigged. Additional costs may be for a single ph
motor and switch for single phase, if the motor is replaced, as
opposed to getting a converter. Also, just because it has a 12" blade
capacity, you wouldn't have to use a 12" blade. 10" works just fine.

Sonny

> That saw looks like a monster...

In a way, it is. That may be to your advantage, too, as Jim alludes
to. I don't want to push you, but evaluate the whole scenario. You
are, of course, your best judge. This kind of purchase would be an
investment. Treat it as so, and not as a spur of the moment
purchase. Do some research. You have a week to research it.

1) If this saw has potential for you and if convenient, go inspect
the saw. Get the serial number and call Grizzly to get info on that
particular saw. What replacement motors (5 hp?) can be used for the
saw?
2) The footprint is just a tad larger than a Unisaw.
3) It comes with a mobile base.
4) If the motor would be replaced, as opposed to getting a converter,
replace it with a 5 hp motor and use a 10" blade.
5) The top surface can double as a work bench, more so if an outfeed
(fold down?) table is installed.
6) For moderate or less use, it'll last for 20 years (same as with
that jointer). How often does a comparable saw become available, near
you, for less than $600? *The bidding may likely reach $600, so that
price may be beyond a hobbyist's reach, but stranger things have
happened with these auctions.
7) If the total investment is/would possibly be reasonable for your
means, it is certainly worth keeping an eye on for the next week....
same as with that jointer, maybe.
8) If you decide to bid, don't be an impulse bidder. Evaluate your
means, relative to what needs to be done to make the saw a single
phase unit.... do some pricing research, and bid only what you can
comfortably afford.
9) If you like the saw and think you can reasonably make the
modifications, bid only what you can afford. If you loose the
bidding, nothing is lost. There is no penalty for not winning the
bid.

I recall your initial mentioning you wanting a table saw. I sensed
your excitement about getting one... reminded me of when I purchased
my first Unisaw (used condition), for $800. I had second guessed
myself for quite a while, after that purchase, even though I had
researched my options for 6 months prior. Just don't be an impulse
buyer, nor allow me to convince you to bid or buy.... with all of the
above info. This saw looked like it may be potential for you, so I
posted it.

That auction site has sales all over the country. Just have to check,
periodically, to see when one is near you with a potential candidate
for purchase... same as with that jointer auction site. It's part and
party to doing the "research" as to what's available.

Sonny

On 3/9/2012 11:05 AM, Sonny wrote:
> Bill, sometime ago you were looking for a table saw. Did you possibly
> have an interest in a jointer, also? Here's one near you.
> http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.AdvSearchResults&myseller=2183
>
> Might be worth going inspect it. 3 days left for bidding and no one
> has bid on it, yet.
>
> Sonny


Thank you very much C-Sonny! I found out that it is 3-phase. This
rules it out for me, but perhaps someone else near Indianapolis is
interested. It looks like a "fun" project at a potentially bargain price!

Bill

Kenefick wrote:
> It's three phase and may not work, per the question at the bottom of the
> page.

Yes, that info wasn't there before I phoned them and the actual owner of
the tool! : )



>
> On 3/9/2012 11:05 AM, Sonny wrote:
>> Bill, sometime ago you were looking for a table saw. Did you possibly
>> have an interest in a jointer, also? Here's one near you.
>> http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.AdvSearchResults&myseller=2183
>>
>> Might be worth going inspect it. 3 days left for bidding and no one
>> has bid on it, yet.
>>
>> Sonny

Sonny wrote:
> *Fully rigged: Even has a pencil sharpener on the extension table.

: )

That saw looks like a monster... 7.5 HP! For my purposes, an
unnecessarily powerful TS seems like more of a liability than an asset.
I definitely don't mind you pointing our these "bargains" however.
The same site has a more modest/suitable 3HP Delta for $700, but it's in
FL. This may be great news for a reader here in FL!

"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

Sonny wrote:
> *Fully rigged: Even has a pencil sharpener on the extension table.

: )

That saw looks like a monster... 7.5 HP! For my purposes, an
unnecessarily powerful TS seems like more of a liability than an asset.

************************************
There is no such thing as too powerful of a table saw. Wait till you want
to rip a thick piece of hard wood, or a piece of treated rough wood, or
something. Also, when you cut dados.

You will want all the HP you can afford to buy. No way can it be a
liability. That goes along with the idea that a dull tool (or low HP tool)
is a dangerous tool. The opposite sharp and high HP comparison can also be
made.

-- Jim in NC

Sonny wrote:
>> That saw looks like a monster...
>
> In a way, it is. That may be to your advantage, too, as Jim alludes
> to. I don't want to push you, but evaluate the whole scenario. You
> are, of course, your best judge. This kind of purchase would be an
> investment. Treat it as so, and not as a spur of the moment
> purchase. Do some research. You have a week to research it.
>
> 1) If this saw has potential for you and if convenient, go inspect
> the saw. Get the serial number and call Grizzly to get info on that
> particular saw. What replacement motors (5 hp?) can be used for the
> saw?
> 2) The footprint is just a tad larger than a Unisaw.
> 3) It comes with a mobile base.
> 4) If the motor would be replaced, as opposed to getting a converter,
> replace it with a 5 hp motor and use a 10" blade.
> 5) The top surface can double as a work bench, more so if an outfeed
> (fold down?) table is installed.
> 6) For moderate or less use, it'll last for 20 years (same as with
> that jointer). How often does a comparable saw become available, near
> you, for less than $600? *The bidding may likely reach $600, so that
> price may be beyond a hobbyist's reach, but stranger things have
> happened with these auctions.
> 7) If the total investment is/would possibly be reasonable for your
> means, it is certainly worth keeping an eye on for the next week....
> same as with that jointer, maybe.
> 8) If you decide to bid, don't be an impulse bidder. Evaluate your
> means, relative to what needs to be done to make the saw a single
> phase unit.... do some pricing research, and bid only what you can
> comfortably afford.
> 9) If you like the saw and think you can reasonably make the
> modifications, bid only what you can afford. If you loose the
> bidding, nothing is lost. There is no penalty for not winning the
> bid.
>
> I recall your initial mentioning you wanting a table saw. I sensed
> your excitement about getting one... reminded me of when I purchased
> my first Unisaw (used condition), for $800.

Yes, I'm still looking. I look on craigslist all the time. I'm still in
the "workshop preparation" phase though so i'm not desperate yet.
I had not been looking for a "big project" in a TS, but things change.
My shop is wired for 55W capacity (60 Amp CB'er)--that was a "big
project" : )

Grizzly-0690 TS runs 20A and is $1475, including shipping. Lights are
up to about 6 amps (eleven T8 fixtures) Dust collection and perhaps
ambient dust collection = XX amps, heater = XX amps? It's may be nice
to leave some capacity on the table for whatever the future holds!

A nice 10-20 year old Delta Unisaw would probably suit me fine (est.
$750-$1200). A new one can be had for about $2518 from Amazon, after
rebate, including shipping. That is tempting, but may not make that much
sense (for a hobbiest). SWMBO, who bought new cars on credit before she
married me, says "Get whichever one you want." ...lol!

Bill


I had second guessed
> myself for quite a while, after that purchase, even though I had
> researched my options for 6 months prior. Just don't be an impulse
> buyer, nor allow me to convince you to bid or buy.... with all of the
> above info. This saw looked like it may be potential for you, so I
> posted it.
>
> That auction site has sales all over the country. Just have to check,
> periodically, to see when one is near you with a potential candidate
> for purchase... same as with that jointer auction site. It's part and
> party to doing the "research" as to what's available.
>
> Sonny

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> Yes, I'm still looking. I look on craigslist all the time. I'm still
>> in the "workshop preparation" phase though so i'm not desperate yet.
>> I had not been looking for a "big project" in a TS, but things change.
>> My shop is wired for 55W capacity (60 Amp CB'er)--that was a "big
>> project" : )
>
> I'm sure that's a typo above.

Oops. Yes, 55 Amps.


But even then Bill - you are over analyzing
> this stuff.

I didn't start this thread. I'm doing okay. I was just sharing my thoughts.

I've got no shortage of wood-related stuff keeping me busy. I've even
volunteered my effort to help maintain a web site for a local non-profit
woodcarving organization. They are assisting me with my sharpening
technique and other interesting stuff! : )

<snip>

> If that saw would serve you nicely, then Sonny's suggestion could equally
> serve you nicely - if that's a saw that you actually like. Frankly - you
> could find an old Craftsman Model 10 for around $100 that would offer you a
> great woodworking experience, and provide for your needs for a longggggggg
> time. Just tune it up, plug it in, and use it. Ooops - there's that use it
> thing again...

Yes, I've thought of that. Based upon my experiences thus far, I harbor
no great love of running a table saw. I thought a cabinet saw would
provide me the best experience.

Please don't confuse my long posts with lack of learning. This week I
learned a lot about miter saws--and I didn't post one question about
them here--yet! : ) I did narrow it down to a DeWalt 716, if I was
buying one today. Now that I know a little, I can perhaps make more of
the time I spend at auctions and pawn shops...I haven't visited one of
those in a while.

Cheers,
Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:

> Well - there's nothing wrong with setting one's mind on a particular tool.
> Sometimes it's kinda like finding that perfect woman.
>
> I own the one I do because I bought a group of tools off of a guy that had
> to sell. I really only wanted the drill press, but I bought a table saw, a
> compound miter, the drill press and a band saw for $300. Turned around and
> sold the table saw, kept the drill press and the compound miter, and gave
> the bandsaw to my son. The compound miter does it's job, but it's not one I
> would have gone out and bought if I were looking for one.
>

Yes, I got my BS and DP sort of by being in the right place at the right
time too. The original plan was to get a TS first, after the
"remodeling" was done. Hopefully, the remodeling will be done by June or
so. I'm not really ready for a TS yet as everything is more or less
stacked in the middle of the garage, I mean shop,--but I'll make room
for a TS if something comes my way! I already bought a paint roller
with a long handle! ; )

On 3/11/2012 3:19 PM, Bill wrote:

> A nice 10-20 year old Delta Unisaw would probably suit me fine (est.
> $750-$1200). A new one can be had for about $2518 from Amazon, after
> rebate, including shipping. That is tempting, but may not make that much
> sense (for a hobbiest).

If money is not an issue go for it, but, you certainly don't need to
spend anything near that much for a tsaw. I grew up with a 1956 Delta
Unisaw (my dads, and it is still running fine) When I got married I
built a basement shop, and got a 1954 or so used Delta contractors saw.
I could have gone to my moms and traded the contractors saw for the
Unisaw, but decided not too do that, the contractors saw I actually
liked better, for a number of reasons. Both have advantages, and the
Unisaw was/is a better saw, but for 99% of all Tsaw use, the contractors
saw was fine. On the other hand, I would not buy a cheap ass Tsaw, like
a Sears. If I couldn't afford high quality, I would look for high
quality used. You don't need a ton of power either, but no universal
motors, you need at minimum a real 1 HP motor. 7 1/2 hp is plain stupid
for what you are going to do. 3 HP is almost more than you need. Between
1 and 3 if fine.

If you only have a 60 amp service, you probably want to stay with a
small 110 because of lack of breaker space, 220 takes two circuits. I
ran my shop for years on one 20 amp 110 circuit. The only tools that
you normally run at the same time as other tools are an air compressor
and dust collection. They should have their own circuit.

Personally, If I could get a high quality used commercial saw for $700
and replace the 3 phase with a 2-3 HP 220 motor, I'd do it.

You need a minimum of a drill press, you got one I think, a Tsaw, and a
Band Saw before you have anything I'd consider a "wood shop". So keep
that in mind when budgeting for tools.

SWMBO, who bought new cars on credit before she
> married me, says "Get whichever one you want." ...lol!

My wife's the same way. Money is there to spend. I have no reason to
ask her if I should buy a tool, her answer is always the same, go for
it. Me, I have to think about it until forever, of course I have a hard
time finding something I "need" My tools have tools now:-)

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

Jack wrote:
> On 3/11/2012 3:19 PM, Bill wrote:
>
>> A nice 10-20 year old Delta Unisaw would probably suit me fine (est.
>> $750-$1200). A new one can be had for about $2518 from Amazon, after
>> rebate, including shipping. That is tempting, but may not make that much
>> sense (for a hobbiest).
>
> If money is not an issue go for it, but, you certainly don't need to
> spend anything near that much for a tsaw. I grew up with a 1956 Delta
> Unisaw (my dads, and it is still running fine) When I got married I
> built a basement shop, and got a 1954 or so used Delta contractors saw.

Saw prices have climbed , especially in the last 2 or 3 years. Even the
saw presently near the top of my list (Grizzly-0690) has went up at
least 25%.


> I could have gone to my moms and traded the contractors saw for the
> Unisaw, but decided not too do that, the contractors saw I actually
> liked better, for a number of reasons. Both have advantages, and the
> Unisaw was/is a better saw, but for 99% of all Tsaw use, the contractors
> saw was fine. On the other hand, I would not buy a cheap ass Tsaw, like
> a Sears. If I couldn't afford high quality, I would look for high
> quality used.

Yes, but it's "Location, location, location!", especially when you have
to rent a truck with a liftgate-which compels you to pay (retail)
mileage both ways. I browse craigslist, and local auction houses,
frequently.


You don't need a ton of power either, but no universal
> motors, you need at minimum a real 1 HP motor. 7 1/2 hp is plain stupid
> for what you are going to do. 3 HP is almost more than you need. Between
> 1 and 3 if fine.
>
> If you only have a 60 amp service, you probably want to stay with a
> small 110 because of lack of breaker space, 220 takes two circuits.

Yes, I installed a 60 Amp service for my shop off of the 200 Amp service
for the house. And I already pulled 10-2 for a TS, so I am determined to
use it (220v)! : ) In fact, I pulled alot more wire than that, and I
am increasingly glad I did!


I
> ran my shop for years on one 20 amp 110 circuit. The only tools that you
> normally run at the same time as other tools are an air compressor and
> dust collection. They should have their own circuit.
>
> Personally, If I could get a high quality used commercial saw for $700
> and replace the 3 phase with a 2-3 HP 220 motor, I'd do it.
>
> You need a minimum of a drill press, you got one I think, a Tsaw, and a
> Band Saw before you have anything I'd consider a "wood shop". So keep
> that in mind when budgeting for tools.

I've got the DP and BS (I got excellent prices on them). Yes, when I
remembers good blade (s), dado-set, possible miter-guage, etc., it helps
keep my TS budget in check. As you suggest, an older saw would suit me
fine. Thank you for your guidance.

Bill

>
> SWMBO, who bought new cars on credit before she
>> married me, says "Get whichever one you want." ...lol!
>
> My wife's the same way. Money is there to spend. I have no reason to ask
> her if I should buy a tool, her answer is always the same, go for it.
> Me, I have to think about it until forever, of course I have a hard time
> finding something I "need" My tools have tools now:-)
>

Sonny wrote:
> Here's another auction in Indy. I can't tell what brand tablesaw is
> pictured. There's a Powermatic jointer and some other tools, also.
> Might be worth checking out.
>
> Heimel Happenings -On Site Tool Auction! March 31st:
> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctionlist.cgi?txtSearchZip=46201&txtSearchRadius=30&idxSearchCategory=0&gid=0&year=2012&month=3&day=31&txtSearchKeywords=
>
> If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=


Thanks CSonny, I'll keep my eyes open.

That looks like an 8" jointer. Or is it a 6"?
Looks like it might be in a basement too, with no mobile base! : )

Cheers,
Bill

On 3/25/2012 10:43 PM, Bill wrote:

>> If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
>> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=

> Thanks CSonny, I'll keep my eyes open.
>
> That looks like an 8" jointer. Or is it a 6"?
> Looks like it might be in a basement too, with no mobile base! : )

I would try like hell to buy a segmented spiral cutter head for any
jointer or planer. Also, if you ever plan on getting a planer, try for
at least an 8 inch jointer.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 3/26/2012 10:17 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 3/25/2012 10:43 PM, Bill wrote:
>
>>> If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
>>> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=
>>>
>
>> Thanks CSonny, I'll keep my eyes open.
>>
>> That looks like an 8" jointer. Or is it a 6"?
>> Looks like it might be in a basement too, with no mobile base! : )
>
> I would try like hell to buy a segmented spiral cutter head for any
> jointer or planer. Also, if you ever plan on getting a planer, try for
> at least an 8 inch jointer.
>

I picked up a "standard" Delta 12.5", 2-blade planer at auction. It
works fine too on the soft wood I've tested it on, but it's certainly at
the "low-end" of the planer spectrum. I will keep you suggestion in
mind. Is the reason because "cutter maintenance" is less frequent?

Bill

On 3/26/2012 11:31 AM, Bill wrote:
> On 3/26/2012 10:17 AM, Jack wrote:

>> I would try like hell to buy a segmented spiral cutter head for any
>> jointer or planer. Also, if you ever plan on getting a planer, try for
>> at least an 8 inch jointer.
>>
>
> I picked up a "standard" Delta 12.5", 2-blade planer at auction. It
> works fine too on the soft wood I've tested it on, but it's certainly at
> the "low-end" of the planer spectrum. I will keep you suggestion in
> mind. Is the reason because "cutter maintenance" is less frequent?

Frequency is probably more based on whether you have carbide blades or
not, but you can rotate the cutters 4 times. Replacement is simple as
there is virtually no adjustment needed. That's not why though, the why
is they really cut smooth, quiet and use less power. Chips are small
and uniform so dust collection is simple, even with a small hose.
Knots are meaningless to them, as is grain direction.

There is no comparison. My 15" planer cuts better and quieter with a
14" hunk of gnarly hardwood than my 6" jointer with a 4" piece of
softwood.

I thought all you had was a drill press on a mobile base?

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

Jack wrote:
> On 3/26/2012 11:31 AM, Bill wrote:
>> On 3/26/2012 10:17 AM, Jack wrote:
>
>>> I would try like hell to buy a segmented spiral cutter head for any
>>> jointer or planer. Also, if you ever plan on getting a planer, try for
>>> at least an 8 inch jointer.
>>>
>>
>> I picked up a "standard" Delta 12.5", 2-blade planer at auction. It
>> works fine too on the soft wood I've tested it on, but it's certainly at
>> the "low-end" of the planer spectrum. I will keep you suggestion in
>> mind. Is the reason because "cutter maintenance" is less frequent?
>
> Frequency is probably more based on whether you have carbide blades or
> not, but you can rotate the cutters 4 times. Replacement is simple as
> there is virtually no adjustment needed. That's not why though, the why
> is they really cut smooth, quiet and use less power. Chips are small and
> uniform so dust collection is simple, even with a small hose. Knots are
> meaningless to them, as is grain direction.
>
> There is no comparison. My 15" planer cuts better and quieter with a 14"
> hunk of gnarly hardwood than my 6" jointer with a 4" piece of softwood.
>

I didn't realize there was so much difference. Maybe part of me didn't
really want to believe there was. I believe it now. Still, I'm surprised
to note that DeWalt 3-blade planer is about $399 (almost twice the
retail price of the Delta 12.5" planer). Maybe that helped me think a
planer with blades wasn't so marginal. As you suggested, planing hard
wood is more likely to reveal the difference.


> I thought all you had was a drill press on a mobile base?

Well, I haven't been counting things I can lift by myself. I hate to
point fingers, but some of the kind folks have helped cultivate me into
something of a tool junkie! lol. Besides for my "antiques", I have a DP
and BS, and am starting to work my way into the heavy stuff now (TS and
jointer)--especially with 220v! ; )

Bill

Sonny wrote:

> If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=



My homework makes me guess that's a Powermatic Model 60 8" jointer.
1970-80's, about 500 pounds?

I take it new cutterblades grow on trees? Practically glides up stairs
by itself? : )

What would you guess it would go for? That the auction is being
advertised as "Woodworking Tools" and is on a Saturday morning is not
going to help the price. If the auctioneers will move it to the top of
the stairs, if necessary, that will increase my interest! I'm already
growing sort of fond of it! ; )

Bill

Bill wrote:
> Sonny wrote:
>
>> If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
>> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=
>>
>

Does anyone recognize that TS sitting to the left of it? Maybe I could
get two birds with one stone here?



>
>
> My homework makes me guess that's a Powermatic Model 60 8" jointer.
> 1970-80's, about 500 pounds?
>
> I take it new cutterblades grow on trees? Practically glides up stairs
> by itself? : )
>
> What would you guess it would go for? That the auction is being
> advertised as "Woodworking Tools" and is on a Saturday morning is not
> going to help the price. If the auctioneers will move it to the top of
> the stairs, if necessary, that will increase my interest! I'm already
> growing sort of fond of it! ; )
>
> Bill

Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Sonny wrote:
>>
>>> If that link doesn't work, for some reason, try this:
>>> http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=1394910&category=0&zip=46201&kwd=
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> Does anyone recognize that TS sitting to the left of it? Maybe I could
> get two birds with one stone here?
>
>

Probably a 1.5HP Delta (contractor's saw)?


>
>>
>>
>> My homework makes me guess that's a Powermatic Model 60 8" jointer.
>> 1970-80's, about 500 pounds?
>>
>> I take it new cutterblades grow on trees? Practically glides up stairs
>> by itself? : )
>>
>> What would you guess it would go for? That the auction is being
>> advertised as "Woodworking Tools" and is on a Saturday morning is not
>> going to help the price. If the auctioneers will move it to the top of
>> the stairs, if necessary, that will increase my interest! I'm already
>> growing sort of fond of it! ; )
>>
>> Bill
>

On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:49:54 -0400, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>says...
>>
>> "Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Sonny wrote:
>> > *Fully rigged: Even has a pencil sharpener on the extension table.
>>
>> : )
>>
>> That saw looks like a monster... 7.5 HP! For my purposes, an
>> unnecessarily powerful TS seems like more of a liability than an asset.
>>
>> ************************************
>> There is no such thing as too powerful of a table saw. Wait till you want
>> to rip a thick piece of hard wood, or a piece of treated rough wood, or
>> something. Also, when you cut dados.
>>
>> You will want all the HP you can afford to buy. No way can it be a
>> liability. That goes along with the idea that a dull tool (or low HP tool)
>> is a dangerous tool. The opposite sharp and high HP comparison can also be
>> made.
>
>For me it would be a liability. I really don't want to try to persuade
>Connecticut Light and Power to run 3-phase to my basement.

It's likely to get a good laugh, though. Rotary converters aren't all that
expensive. FWIG, a 3HP unit can be had for $100. An old motor might even be
free.