Does anyone have a suggestion of how to mark parts in such a way they could
be painted over and still have the markings be somewhat visible? I'm
working on building the benchwork for my model railroad, and have been
separating and painting the different parts after dry assembly. I marked
the different parts with a pencil so I don't have a big puzzle after I get
done, but the pencil mark is hardly permanent.
The wood is mainly SPF, ripped 2x4s.
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> wrote in news:huangpo_
[email protected]:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bored Borg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Ditto with a shallow saw groove uf you'd rather.
>
> What he said. Shallow groove is how I was taught. Best of all is to
> arrange the cut so it touches both pieces. Same idea as the big V shape
> we all put across the boards when laying out a table top.
>
I used my pocket knife to mark the boards, and that worked quite well.
Everything reassembled nicely, and with 3/5 of the legs marked putting them
back where they were wasn't too difficult.
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
I take it that you want to mark them for assembly and disassembly after
you're finished with them, not just during the building process.
How about a set of letter and number punches? I use them to mark the backs
of hinges and latches and stuff when they need to go exactly back where they
were upon reassembly. For instance, I'll stamp a number in the wood under a
fitting, and then put the same number on the back of the hardware. No reason
you couldn't do the same thing in the wood somewhere unobtrusive.
Tom Dacon
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone have a suggestion of how to mark parts in such a way they
> could
> be painted over and still have the markings be somewhat visible? I'm
> working on building the benchwork for my model railroad, and have been
> separating and painting the different parts after dry assembly. I marked
> the different parts with a pencil so I don't have a big puzzle after I get
> done, but the pencil mark is hardly permanent.
>
> The wood is mainly SPF, ripped 2x4s.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
>
> To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
In article <[email protected]>,
Bored Borg <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ditto with a shallow saw groove uf you'd rather.
What he said. Shallow groove is how I was taught. Best of all is to
arrange the cut so it touches both pieces. Same idea as the big V shape
we all put across the boards when laying out a table top.
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
I built my tables out of hollow core doors that had been boogered up and
returned to the store.
I put dowel pins in, in different combinations so the panels can only go
together one way.
I got the idea from a guy that used hardware from expanding tables for
alignment and locking.
I started this when Ntrack was in its infancy and we HO folks had nothing
comparable.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone have a suggestion of how to mark parts in such a way they
> could
> be painted over and still have the markings be somewhat visible? I'm
> working on building the benchwork for my model railroad, and have been
> separating and painting the different parts after dry assembly. I marked
> the different parts with a pencil so I don't have a big puzzle after I get
> done, but the pencil mark is hardly permanent.
>
> The wood is mainly SPF, ripped 2x4s.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
>
> To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Look on the websites of machinery supply companies and you will find metal
stamp sets
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000071010502
They come in alpha and numeric with character sizes in 1/8 " thru 1/2".
You can mark the pieces on locations that will be hidden after assembly.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone have a suggestion of how to mark parts in such a way they
> could
> be painted over and still have the markings be somewhat visible? I'm
> working on building the benchwork for my model railroad, and have been
> separating and painting the different parts after dry assembly. I marked
> the different parts with a pencil so I don't have a big puzzle after I get
> done, but the pencil mark is hardly permanent.
>
> The wood is mainly SPF, ripped 2x4s.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
>
> To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm