I wanted to make my own stain. I took some berries and crushed them,
I applied like regular stain and it seemed to work great. What
happened then was that a drip of water landed on my wood and the
stain lifted. What can be done to something like berry juice to
make it stick to the wood? I read that some have used alum but
I have no idea why/if that would work. If someone could shed some
light on stain making I would love it!
Thanks!
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
On Thu, 9 Oct 2008 12:26:23 +0100, dadiOH wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
>
> errfrsdaf wrote:
>> I wanted to make my own stain. I took some berries and crushed them,
>> I applied like regular stain and it seemed to work great. What
>> happened then was that a drip of water landed on my wood and the
>> stain lifted. What can be done to something like berry juice to
>> make it stick to the wood?
>
> Look up "mordant"
The most common mordants are alum and, of course, urine.
if you ever weave yourself a Chinese carpet, you can soak it in a bath of
urine of one of your domestic animals - Yak is good, but camel or goat are
quite effective too - and spread it out on the roof in the hot sun for a few
weeks .
This will make the neighbours aware of your new hobby and they will almost
certainly contact you to discuss your interest. It's a great way of breaking
the ice when you move somewhere new.
Anyone here still have an Afghan coat?
I found this on
http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t534.html
> Hello! It's time to gather walnuts for the dye!
> There is my way, how I do the walnut ink. After gathering the
> walnuts, I usually take 1 or 2 kg for year, it's more than I need. I
> put all into the refrigerator, -18 C. When I need to do dye, I take
> several walnuts and put them into a cup, add very hot water for a
> minute or so, after this procedure they are ready for using. I take a
> thing which looks like a small press and get walnut juice. The juice
> is always green-grey-brow, it looks very dirty! Then I add some iron
> pieces, it can be a rusty nail or some drawing-pins. For some hours
> this solution becomes to change its color, from dirty to nice brown,
> the color can be chocolate, if to keep rusty nail long time, about a
> day, the color can be almost black. Then I add some crystals of
> alum against mould, it is necessary, because the walnut ink is
> covered with mould even after dying, in several days! The alum can
> be bought in the stop for building materials. As a rule the alum is
> added to the glue for any wall-papers and dyes against the moult.
> You should know that the walnut ink cannot be washed away with
> alcohol, the fresh layer can be deleted with water, the old - with
> H2O2. This dye is very good for any bone, like mammoth tusk, walrus
> and cachalot tooth. On the wooden surface the color of the walnut
> ink is always very intensive!
In article <[email protected]>, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Unless you're JOAT, of course...
> He uses coffee, tea, probably kool-aid on gun stocks and stuff...
> I guess it depends on which drum ya hear, huh? lol
Don't forget the yellow paint on his tools :-)
Joe
aka 10x
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:22:14 +0100, Bored Borg
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 9 Oct 2008 12:26:23 +0100, dadiOH wrote
>(in article <[email protected]>):
>
>>
>> errfrsdaf wrote:
>>> I wanted to make my own stain. I took some berries and crushed them,
>>> I applied like regular stain and it seemed to work great. What
>>> happened then was that a drip of water landed on my wood and the
>>> stain lifted. What can be done to something like berry juice to
>>> make it stick to the wood?
>>
>> Look up "mordant"
>
>The most common mordants are alum and, of course, urine.
>
>if you ever weave yourself a Chinese carpet, you can soak it in a bath of
>urine of one of your domestic animals - Yak is good, but camel or goat are
>quite effective too - and spread it out on the roof in the hot sun for a few
>weeks .
<snip>
I remember reading that the American Indians appreciated mother nature's math..
A deer has exactly enough brains to treat one deer skin, or something like
that..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
dadiOH wrote:
> errfrsdaf wrote:
>> I wanted to make my own stain. I took some berries and crushed them,
>> I applied like regular stain and it seemed to work great. What
>> happened then was that a drip of water landed on my wood and the
>> stain lifted. What can be done to something like berry juice to
>> make it stick to the wood?
>
> Look up "mordant"
>
>
Thank you! More talk of alum!
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
[email protected] wrote:
> On Oct 8, 8:57 pm, errfrsdaf <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I read that some have used alum but
>> I have no idea why/if that would work. If someone could shed some
>> light on stain making I would love it!
>
> With every color of the rainbow with all manner of application for
> dyes, tints and stains available right off the shelf, I can't think of
> why you would want to make your own.
Because my kids and I llke doing stuff like that.
> But..
>
> http://www.woodworking.com/wwtimes_oilstain.cfm
>
> http://www.woodworking.org/WC/Garchive01/3_27colorants.html
>
> http://www.care2.com/greenliving/homemade-wood-stain.html
Thanks for the links.
> The stains you make will not likely be color fast, nor will you have
> have any idea of how they will react with top coats of oil, solvent,
> or water based finishes.
We'll find out! So far it looks good under poly.
> Stains can be made from anything. The old Mexican "rough" or "rancho"
> style furniture that is now called "rustic" by those smart enough to
> sell it, was finshed with a black glaze for probably 50 years.
>
> The glaze was made by putting gasoline in a bucket, then tossing in a
> chunk of roofing tar for low slope application. (The kind that goes
> in a hot tar kettle). It turns black, blackish brown, or really dark
> brown depending on the actual chunk you put in and how long you leave
> it. It actually makes a nice glaze, it just takes a long time to cure
> out to get rid of the smell of gas.
>
> I thought that was really unique until I saw Michael Dresdner
> commenting on his experiences with the same, exact glaze.
>
> Robert
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
"errfrsdaf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wanted to make my own stain. I took some berries and crushed them,
> I applied like regular stain and it seemed to work great. What
> happened then was that a drip of water landed on my wood and the
> stain lifted. What can be done to something like berry juice to
> make it stick to the wood? I read that some have used alum but
> I have no idea why/if that would work. If someone could shed some
> light on stain making I would love it!
>
> Thanks!
> ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Hello,
It needs to be locked under a sealing coat of finish. Try spraying, not
brushing, shellac. Brushing will lift the stain. By the way, there is a
good chance that the stain will fade more quickly than other types.
Vegetable dyes are, but not always, very fade susceptible.
Good Luck.
On Wed, 8 Oct 2008 23:14:43 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 8, 8:57 pm, errfrsdaf <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I read that some have used alum but
>> I have no idea why/if that would work. If someone could shed some
>> light on stain making I would love it!
>
>With every color of the rainbow with all manner of application for
>dyes, tints and stains available right off the shelf, I can't think of
>why you would want to make your own.
Unless you're JOAT, of course...
He uses coffee, tea, probably kool-aid on gun stocks and stuff...
I guess it depends on which drum ya hear, huh? lol
>
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Oct 8, 8:57=A0pm, errfrsdaf <[email protected]> wrote:
>=A0I read that some have used alum but
> I have no idea why/if that would work. =A0If someone could shed some
> light on stain making I would love it!
With every color of the rainbow with all manner of application for
dyes, tints and stains available right off the shelf, I can't think of
why you would want to make your own.
But..
http://www.woodworking.com/wwtimes_oilstain.cfm
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/Garchive01/3_27colorants.html
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/homemade-wood-stain.html
The stains you make will not likely be color fast, nor will you have
have any idea of how they will react with top coats of oil, solvent,
or water based finishes.
Stains can be made from anything. The old Mexican "rough" or "rancho"
style furniture that is now called "rustic" by those smart enough to
sell it, was finshed with a black glaze for probably 50 years.
The glaze was made by putting gasoline in a bucket, then tossing in a
chunk of roofing tar for low slope application. (The kind that goes
in a hot tar kettle). It turns black, blackish brown, or really dark
brown depending on the actual chunk you put in and how long you leave
it. It actually makes a nice glaze, it just takes a long time to cure
out to get rid of the smell of gas.
I thought that was really unique until I saw Michael Dresdner
commenting on his experiences with the same, exact glaze.
Robert
errfrsdaf wrote:
> I wanted to make my own stain. I took some berries and crushed them,
> I applied like regular stain and it seemed to work great. What
> happened then was that a drip of water landed on my wood and the
> stain lifted. What can be done to something like berry juice to
> make it stick to the wood?
Look up "mordant"
--
dadiOH
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