A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side
panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high
humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without
acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely
closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any
recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the
closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really want
to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the panel
unless I really have too.
Cheers
Woodshavings,
1 1/4 thick?? I will assume you meant one panel 1/4" thick.
I have used Instant Glue (Cyanoacrylate) and an accelerator for minor
splits, Also a chair repair glue will work. Either can be applied and
with minimal pressure (hand) they will make a permanent bond.
Dave
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side
> panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high
> humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without
> acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely
> closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any
> recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the
> closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really
want
> to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the
panel
> unless I really have too.
>
> Cheers
>
I'd love to see a picture!
Ron's repair might work better for that thick.
Dave
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the help - (Dave yes it is 1 1/4 inch thick, solid beautiful
> white oak !!)
> Woodshavings
>
I agree with Bob and Earl in that you must remove the stress point that caused
it to fail along that line when the humidity changed. I had a similar experience
with a 1 1/2" thick pub table which split at the client's home during the
winter. As I did not want to be called back again, I ripped about 2" out of the
offending area and replaced it with a new piece.
The failed section had been the core of the original log. Since then I never
use the centre 4x4 of a log for furniture. Cheers, JG
Earl Creel wrote:
> If the split is such that you can remove it by ripping the panel and you can
> stand for the panel to be a tad smaller that will give you the best repair.
> Sawing the panel will get rid of stress in the adjoining wood. If you get a
> good scald on the joint when you glue it back together it should be almost
> invisible.
> Earl Creel
>
> "Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side
> > panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high
> > humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without
> > acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely
> > closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any
> > recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the
> > closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really
> want
> > to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the
> panel
> > unless I really have too.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
I have an oak table that developed a split.
I took a couple mending plates, just steel straps with some holes in them,
and drilled holes in either side of the split about 1/16" further apart then
the holes in the plates.
When I screwed them in place the split was drawn together.
I didn't expect this to work, but didn't know what else to do. It has been
about a year now, and the split has remained closed.
Since yours has already closed up, you should have an even easier time of
it.
Of course, my plates are on the bottom where no one sees them. It won't
work very well if it is exposed.
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side
> panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high
> humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without
> acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely
> closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any
> recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the
> closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really
want
> to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the
panel
> unless I really have too.
>
> Cheers
>
Why not apply glue to one side while holding the hose of a vacuum to the
other side? You don't need to depend on capillary action with the
assistance of air pressure. The technique is fresh in my mind since I just
finished doing the same thing, albeit on a smaller scale.
Ron
What do you think caused the crack in the first place? What have you done
besides adding glue at this point to prevent it from splitting again? It
will split again and putting a band-aid on it is not the cure but you can
always hope.
Bob S.
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the help - (Dave yes it is 1 1/4 inch thick, solid beautiful
> white oak !!)
> Woodshavings
>
Hi Bob,
The reason for the split was that I stupidly took the panel from my
workshop, where the humidity had been 70 to 80% for the prior 3 to 4 weeks,
into my centrally heated house (RH 25%) in order to finish the assembly.
(need a bigger workshop !) Worse, I left it near the radiator over night -
next morning the split had appeared. I moved it back into the workshop and
the split completely closed up. I am now slowly conditioning the the panel
to my house conditions, so far, so good.
Lesson learned!
Yes...at least 35 to 40% is recommended but then the moisture condenses on
the windows, freezes and creates problems. Sometimes ya just can't win....
Bob S.
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Woodshavings" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > The reason for the split was that I stupidly took the panel from my
> > workshop, where the humidity had been 70 to 80% for the prior 3 to 4
weeks,
>
> You need a drier workshop.
>
> > into my centrally heated house (RH 25%) in order to finish the assembly.
>
> You need a much more humid house, 25% is not a healthy environment.
>
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Okay - your heater created stress by drying out one side, very quickly. The
glue fix, however you do it should be fine but I doubt if its even necessary
for a panel that has nothing to support load wise.
Bob S.
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Bob,
>
> The reason for the split was that I stupidly took the panel from my
> workshop, where the humidity had been 70 to 80% for the prior 3 to 4
weeks,
> into my centrally heated house (RH 25%) in order to finish the assembly.
> (need a bigger workshop !) Worse, I left it near the radiator over night -
> next morning the split had appeared. I moved it back into the workshop
and
> the split completely closed up. I am now slowly conditioning the the
panel
> to my house conditions, so far, so good.
> Lesson learned!
>
If the split is such that you can remove it by ripping the panel and you can
stand for the panel to be a tad smaller that will give you the best repair.
Sawing the panel will get rid of stress in the adjoining wood. If you get a
good scald on the joint when you glue it back together it should be almost
invisible.
Earl Creel
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side
> panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high
> humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without
> acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely
> closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any
> recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the
> closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really
want
> to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the
panel
> unless I really have too.
>
> Cheers
>
A panel that is 5/4's thick...zoweee. You could try inlaying a bowtie /
butterfly patch (call it a feature enhancement...) to keep it from splitting
but any glue applied will simply tear the next layer of wood when it opens
again. The glue will be stronger than the wood - so when this crack opens,
the glue joint probably won't fail but you'll find that about 1/128" away
from the original crack will be another.
Bob S.
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side
> panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high
> humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without
> acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely
> closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any
> recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the
> closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really
want
> to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the
panel
> unless I really have too.
>
> Cheers
>
"Woodshavings" <[email protected]> writes:
> Hi Bob,
>
> The reason for the split was that I stupidly took the panel from my
> workshop, where the humidity had been 70 to 80% for the prior 3 to 4 weeks,
You need a drier workshop.
> into my centrally heated house (RH 25%) in order to finish the assembly.
You need a much more humid house, 25% is not a healthy environment.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23