I want to cut some zero-clearance inserts for my table saw by using the
existing insert plate as a template, screwing some 1/4 inch MDF blanks to
it, and trimming it with a flush cutting bit in my router table. However,
if I push the shank of the router bit most/all the way into the collet, the
roller bearing does not protrude above top of the table. Should I just
re-position the shank with more "air" between it and the bottom of the
collet? Could I drop a short length of 1/4" dowel down the hole to fill the
space or is that either unnecessary or unsafe?
Thanks.
Lee
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To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
> "Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:c3Jab.519680$Ho3.87697@sccrnsc03...
> > I want to cut some zero-clearance inserts for my table saw by using
the
> > existing insert plate as a template, screwing some 1/4 inch MDF
blanks to
> > it, and trimming it with a flush cutting bit in my router table.
However,
> > if I push the shank of the router bit most/all the way into the
collet,
> the
> > roller bearing does not protrude above top of the table. Should I
just
> > re-position the shank with more "air" between it and the bottom of
the
> > collet? Could I drop a short length of 1/4" dowel down the hole to
fill
> the
> > space or is that either unnecessary or unsafe?
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Lee
> >
> > --
> > To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
> >
> >
>
"Rob Stokes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You want a good 60 to 70% of the collet's length "filled" with bit at
a
> minimum. A dowel should not be required but....You may want to look at
how
> your router is mounted (or the table thickness) or you may want to
look at a
> longer bit (they make them) as a "proper" fix.
>
> Good luck
> Rob
You could also get a bit with the bearing on the bottom instead of the
top.
You are quite correct that the bit shouldn't bottom out but the reason you
give is usually not (though it can be) the problem. The collet tightens by
being pushed down the taper of the shaft. If the bit is up off the bottom,
it travels down too so the collet is effectively only squeezing the shank.
If the bit is bottomed out, it has no where to go as the collet slides down
forcing the collet to slide along the shank as it tightens. This increases
friction greatly giving you the impression that it is tight when it is not.
"Tom M." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was gonna mention what Bob said...you shouldn't push the bit all the
> way into the collet, it's unsafe. The part of the bit where the shank
> ends and the cutter part begins may be a hair wider than the shank
> diameter, and the collet may be tightening on that part rather than
> the shank itself.
You want a good 60 to 70% of the collet's length "filled" with bit at a
minimum. A dowel should not be required but....You may want to look at how
your router is mounted (or the table thickness) or you may want to look at a
longer bit (they make them) as a "proper" fix.
Good luck
Rob
"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c3Jab.519680$Ho3.87697@sccrnsc03...
> I want to cut some zero-clearance inserts for my table saw by using the
> existing insert plate as a template, screwing some 1/4 inch MDF blanks to
> it, and trimming it with a flush cutting bit in my router table. However,
> if I push the shank of the router bit most/all the way into the collet,
the
> roller bearing does not protrude above top of the table. Should I just
> re-position the shank with more "air" between it and the bottom of the
> collet? Could I drop a short length of 1/4" dowel down the hole to fill
the
> space or is that either unnecessary or unsafe?
> Thanks.
>
> Lee
>
> --
> To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
>
>
Frank ...
<<You could also get a bit with the bearing on the bottom instead of the
top.>>
[Whacking himself on the forehead] I have a laminate trimming bit that
would serve this purpose. It took your suggestion to make me realize I
could flip the workpiece upside down and keep the template side up and the
MDF side against the table.
Thanks.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
Lee,
You do not want to have the bit fully seated in the collet since it may end
up with the collet not being able to tighten around the shank properly and
the bit can come loose - not fun.
Next time you're at a hardware store, pick up a couple of 1/2" O.D. rubber O
rings. Depending on the router collet, place one or two down in the collet.
Now when you seat a bit, the shank will bottom out on the O ring.
Take a look at Pat Warner's site www.patwarner.com for some excellent advice
on routers and attachments.
Bob S.
"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Bob ...
>
> <<Next time you're at a hardware store, pick up a couple of 1/2" O.D. rubber
> O
> rings. Depending on the router collet, place one or two down in the collet.
> Now when you seat a bit, the shank will bottom out on the O ring.>>
>
> Thanks for the tip. This particular set-up is using the 1/4" collet but
> I'll pick up some O-rings of both sizes.
>
> Lee
I was gonna mention what Bob said...you shouldn't push the bit all the
way into the collet, it's unsafe. The part of the bit where the shank
ends and the cutter part begins may be a hair wider than the shank
diameter, and the collet may be tightening on that part rather than
the shank itself.
Also, if your router has a 1/2" collet, I would invest in some 1/2"
bits. I bought a set of Woodline bits with 1/2" shanks, and noticed
that the shank is about 1/4" to 1/2" longer than any of my old 1/4"
bits. This gives you that much extra length, which works out better in
a router table.
Tom
Take the router out of the table. You are using up the length of the
bit just getting above the top. Or get a bit with a longer shaft.
"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I want to cut some zero-clearance inserts for my table saw by using the
>existing insert plate as a template, screwing some 1/4 inch MDF blanks to
>it, and trimming it with a flush cutting bit in my router table. However,
>if I push the shank of the router bit most/all the way into the collet, the
>roller bearing does not protrude above top of the table. Should I just
>re-position the shank with more "air" between it and the bottom of the
>collet? Could I drop a short length of 1/4" dowel down the hole to fill the
>space or is that either unnecessary or unsafe?
>Thanks.
>
>Lee
Bob ...
<<Next time you're at a hardware store, pick up a couple of 1/2" O.D. rubber
O
rings. Depending on the router collet, place one or two down in the collet.
Now when you seat a bit, the shank will bottom out on the O ring.>>
Thanks for the tip. This particular set-up is using the 1/4" collet but
I'll pick up some O-rings of both sizes.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"