What do you mean ..".frozen tundra of Indiana"? ...I will have you know
that the day before yesterday it was 68 degrees here......yeah I know
....today the temperature has fallen to 20 degrees........but no mud
slides or forest fires to report!!...I had the pleasure to live in SD,
CA and I did enjoy the weather!!It truly is a wonderful place.
Good luck
Mike from American Sycamore
In article <[email protected]>, Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 14:39:40 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>>>
>>>CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by the
>>>idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
>>>CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
>>
>> Any recommendations on how to do that? BTW, I'm not disagreeing with
>>your comment, I know that was one of my problems with the sets of drawers I
>>finished making.
>
> 1. Loosen the screws holding the router subbase to the base.
> 2. Mount the collar in the subbase.
> 3. Insert a centering tool in the router collet and tighten the collet nut.
What's a "centering tool" and where do I buy one? I use Porter-Cable routers
and a Hitachi M12V. A quick google-search turned up a CMT unit, but that seems
to be part of an industrial table.
--
"De inimico non loquaris sed cogites."
"DJ Delorie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> writes:
> > I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions
> > that would speed the learning curve.
>
> Don't try. Make yourself a large batch of test boards (i.e. a dozen
> that are all the same length, width, and thickness) and go through the
> manual methodically, doing everything once. Then when you need to do
> something real with it, it won't be your first time, and you can use
> the quick references in the back.
>
> But there really isn't much of a learning curve for the standard uses
> of the D4, so trying to speed it up will only frustrate you and reduce
> your enjoyment and productivity with the D4.
CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by the
idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
While making your demos, look to the pages where you are supposed to mark
your compensations. Scan and print some extras right away, mark your
settings carefully, and things get a lot easier. Since you'll have
different settings with any different diameter bit, mark them carefully.
I'm using spiral bits now, because they're friendlier on splintery woods,
and would recommend you try them to prove for yourself after you CENTER YOUR
COLLARS.
Collars, guides, inserts, whatever you want to call them. If they're not
concentric with the bit, you get unpredictable results.
I've _heard_ it can take quite a bit of time for dense people without clever
wives like mine to figure it out....
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:V0XFd.6610$EG1.6421@attbi_s53...
> I don't want to seem as though I'm dense, but what do you mean center your
> collars?
>
>
I got it George! I will insure that the router bit is dead center in the
guide collar.
Thanks, Dave
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "DJ Delorie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> writes:
>> > I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions
>> > that would speed the learning curve.
>>
>> Don't try. Make yourself a large batch of test boards (i.e. a dozen
>> that are all the same length, width, and thickness) and go through the
>> manual methodically, doing everything once. Then when you need to do
>> something real with it, it won't be your first time, and you can use
>> the quick references in the back.
>>
>> But there really isn't much of a learning curve for the standard uses
>> of the D4, so trying to speed it up will only frustrate you and reduce
>> your enjoyment and productivity with the D4.
>
> CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by
> the
> idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
> CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
>
> While making your demos, look to the pages where you are supposed to mark
> your compensations. Scan and print some extras right away, mark your
> settings carefully, and things get a lot easier. Since you'll have
> different settings with any different diameter bit, mark them carefully.
> I'm using spiral bits now, because they're friendlier on splintery woods,
> and would recommend you try them to prove for yourself after you CENTER
> YOUR
> COLLARS.
>
>
I love it Leon, any excuse to buy more tools!
Dave
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that
>>would speed the learning curve.
>> Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's
>>
>> Thanks
>> Dave
>>
>
> Graduate ASAP to the 8mm shank bits rather than use 1/4" shank bits.
>
Thanks Mike, but your in the frozen tundra of Indiana and I live in sunny
SoCal.
I'm sure I can derive the lessons out of someone more local, but thanks for
the info.
Dave
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We have a great class here at American Sycamore Woodworkers Retreat and
> most Wood Craft stores offer a Leigh class. What I could show someone
> in a hour would be very beneficial. Good luck,
> Mike from American Sycamore
> www.americansycamoreretreat.com
>
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 14:39:40 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
> >>
> >>CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by
the
> >>idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
> >>CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
> >
> > Any recommendations on how to do that? BTW, I'm not disagreeing with
> >your comment, I know that was one of my problems with the sets of drawers
I
> >finished making.
>
> 1. Loosen the screws holding the router subbase to the base.
> 2. Mount the collar in the subbase.
> 3. Insert a centering tool in the router collet and tighten the collet
nut.
> 4. Lower the collet until the centering tool engages the collar. If you've
> loosened the mounting screws appropriately, this will pull the collar and
> subbase into perfect alignment with the collet.
> 5. Tighten the screws holding the subbase.
> 6. Remove the centering tool.
>
NOTE: there are some bases out there which have tapered mounting holes.
This won't work for them, of course. Sometimes there's enough play in the
guide/collar hole to center, so examine yours, and remember to have this
tightened well if you're moving the base.
The new P-Cs have a spider-looking thing, if I can believe Norm, and that's
where you'll adjust there.
OR: 1a) Slip the Bosch insert into the 1617 and press on.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html
And all kinds of other places.
"Ed Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's a "centering tool" and where do I buy one? I use Porter-Cable
routers
> and a Hitachi M12V. A quick google-search turned up a CMT unit, but that
seems
> to be part of an industrial table.
Mike, Have you been outside? Yahoo weather says its -7 last night. If that
ain't frozen then nothing is!
As for the minor inconsistencies in California weather well - today its 80
and sunny! I'm leaving work early to go make some shavings!
California Seasons
Spring, Summer, Fire and Flood - see we do have four seasons!
Dave
Warming in the the sun~!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What do you mean ..".frozen tundra of Indiana"? ...I will have you know
> that the day before yesterday it was 68 degrees here......yeah I know
> ....today the temperature has fallen to 20 degrees........but no mud
> slides or forest fires to report!!...I had the pleasure to live in SD,
> CA and I did enjoy the weather!!It truly is a wonderful place.
> Good luck
> Mike from American Sycamore
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>
>What's a "centering tool" and where do I buy one? I use Porter-Cable routers
>and a Hitachi M12V. A quick google-search turned up a CMT unit, but that seems
>to be part of an industrial table.
A Google search on "porter cable router centering tool" turns up this:
www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html
Scroll down to the middle of the page for the "Universal Centering Alignment
Pin".
I use the Bosch RA1150 centering cone in my 1617EVS. It would probably work in
your PC router too. Amazon has them for ~ $15 IIRC.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 10:43:11 -0800, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
|I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that
|would speed the learning curve.
|Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's
Didn't you get the video too? Watching it done the first couple of
times you try a new setup is the cat's meow. I have a 12" TV with a
built-in VCR and take it into the shop and follow along.
It's almost like having Nahm coaching you....without the brad nailer
of course.
Oh, and forget about trying to use plywood dwah sides.
In article <[email protected]>, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 14:39:40 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>>
>>CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by the
>>idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
>>CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
>
> Any recommendations on how to do that? BTW, I'm not disagreeing with
>your comment, I know that was one of my problems with the sets of drawers I
>finished making.
1. Loosen the screws holding the router subbase to the base.
2. Mount the collar in the subbase.
3. Insert a centering tool in the router collet and tighten the collet nut.
4. Lower the collet until the centering tool engages the collar. If you've
loosened the mounting screws appropriately, this will pull the collar and
subbase into perfect alignment with the collet.
5. Tighten the screws holding the subbase.
6. Remove the centering tool.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
I don't want to seem as though I'm dense, but what do you mean center your
collars?
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "DJ Delorie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> writes:
> > > I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions
> > > that would speed the learning curve.
> >
> > Don't try. Make yourself a large batch of test boards (i.e. a dozen
> > that are all the same length, width, and thickness) and go through the
> > manual methodically, doing everything once. Then when you need to do
> > something real with it, it won't be your first time, and you can use
> > the quick references in the back.
> >
> > But there really isn't much of a learning curve for the standard uses
> > of the D4, so trying to speed it up will only frustrate you and reduce
> > your enjoyment and productivity with the D4.
>
> CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by
the
> idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
> CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
>
> While making your demos, look to the pages where you are supposed to mark
> your compensations. Scan and print some extras right away, mark your
> settings carefully, and things get a lot easier. Since you'll have
> different settings with any different diameter bit, mark them carefully.
> I'm using spiral bits now, because they're friendlier on splintery woods,
> and would recommend you try them to prove for yourself after you CENTER
YOUR
> COLLARS.
>
>
"George" <george@least> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Collars, guides, inserts, whatever you want to call them. If they're
> not concentric with the bit, you get unpredictable results.
>
> I've _heard_ it can take quite a bit of time for dense people without
> clever wives like mine to figure it out....
>
Now if I have my wife come and help me solve problems in the shop, she'll
think she belongs there regularly, and I will have lost my major place of
refuge. That's another reason to keep it at about 43F. And bring the
projects into the laundry room for the oils to cure.
For the OP: The problem is that the lack of concentricity is subtle, and
you will be off by just enough that you'll think the DT looks crummy, but
it still 'sorta fits'. An alignment, or guide, pin is available. The
router base plate is what you adjust to the base, assuming that you have
purchased a router collar or guide of sufficient quality to begin with.
Router cut dovetails are like a lot of other power tool processes. They
are really efficient, once you dial in the setups. Some folks I know buy a
router just for half-blind dovetails, and leave it set up that way, all of
the time. When I do the kitchen, I'll do the same.
Patriarch,
enjoying the faint aroma of Waterlox...
[email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I use the Bosch RA1150 centering cone in my 1617EVS. It would probably
> work in your PC router too. Amazon has them for ~ $15 IIRC.
>
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/002-0167912-6197619
$5.00
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 10:43:11 -0800, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that
>would speed the learning curve.
>Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's
>
>Thanks
>Dave
>
Wax the fingers -- it will make your router base move across with less
effort and you'll be less likely to push down hard and flex the fingers,
thus causing gaps.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that
>would speed the learning curve.
> Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's
>
> Thanks
> Dave
>
Graduate ASAP to the 8mm shank bits rather than use 1/4" shank bits.
On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 14:39:40 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
>"DJ Delorie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> writes:
>> > I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions
>> > that would speed the learning curve.
>>
>> Don't try. Make yourself a large batch of test boards (i.e. a dozen
>> that are all the same length, width, and thickness) and go through the
>> manual methodically, doing everything once. Then when you need to do
>> something real with it, it won't be your first time, and you can use
>> the quick references in the back.
>>
>> But there really isn't much of a learning curve for the standard uses
>> of the D4, so trying to speed it up will only frustrate you and reduce
>> your enjoyment and productivity with the D4.
>
>CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by the
>idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by.
>CENTER YOUR COLLARS.
>
Any recommendations on how to do that? BTW, I'm not disagreeing with
your comment, I know that was one of my problems with the sets of drawers I
finished making.
>While making your demos, look to the pages where you are supposed to mark
>your compensations. Scan and print some extras right away, mark your
>settings carefully, and things get a lot easier. Since you'll have
>different settings with any different diameter bit, mark them carefully.
>I'm using spiral bits now, because they're friendlier on splintery woods,
>and would recommend you try them to prove for yourself after you CENTER YOUR
>COLLARS.
>
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
I agree with the others ... start with lots of scrap to practice on.
I had problems at first as my collet did not grip the bit tight enough &
there was slight slippage ...
Keep the book near by & follow the directions carefully.
I was using 1/4" in my PC router, I just bought their 8mm collet & some
8mm bits & can't wait to try them out.
JJS
TeamCasa wrote:
> I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that
> would speed the learning curve.
> Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's
>
> Thanks
> Dave
>
>
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> writes:
> I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions
> that would speed the learning curve.
Don't try. Make yourself a large batch of test boards (i.e. a dozen
that are all the same length, width, and thickness) and go through the
manual methodically, doing everything once. Then when you need to do
something real with it, it won't be your first time, and you can use
the quick references in the back.
But there really isn't much of a learning curve for the standard uses
of the D4, so trying to speed it up will only frustrate you and reduce
your enjoyment and productivity with the D4.