This is probably not the right group for this, but I decided
to ask anyway since a lot of people here know wood very
well. I have a Boris Karloff basement, one of those with
stone walls, exposed joists, spider webs, and - unfortunately-
some mold. We tackled the mold last week. I am going
to paint the stone walls with anti-somethingorother paint.
I was thinking of also putting a coat on the overhead joists.
Would that cause any problems in the long run ? I would
put on only one coat, so I assume that that, plus all of the
cracks, gaps, etc will still let vapor pass through.
thanks...
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 03:19:48 GMT, "Wilson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>You can make things worse by trapping moisture under the paint. How about
>something porus, maybe whitewash. I'd use clear copper naphthanate if
>possible, but I'm not sure about its fumes.
I'll lokk into it, thanks.
Zinesser makes a paint for materials exposed to dampness. I think it is
an acrylic latex and is guaranteed to prevent mold for 5 years +. JG
GregP wrote:
> This is probably not the right group for this, but I decided
> to ask anyway since a lot of people here know wood very
> well. I have a Boris Karloff basement, one of those with
> stone walls, exposed joists, spider webs, and - unfortunately-
> some mold. We tackled the mold last week. I am going
> to paint the stone walls with anti-somethingorother paint.
> I was thinking of also putting a coat on the overhead joists.
> Would that cause any problems in the long run ? I would
> put on only one coat, so I assume that that, plus all of the
> cracks, gaps, etc will still let vapor pass through.
>
> thanks...
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 00:57:22 -0400, GregP <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 02:20:01 GMT, "RE Quick Transit"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>It will brighten things up. Think about getting a sprayer if it is the older
>>rough cut lumber.
>
>
> Oh yeah: it's a Boris Karloff basement, with stone walls, spider
> webs, old dimension roug-cut lumber, a coal bin, etc.
be a shame to brighten it up too much.
have you considered installing a pipe organ in it? maybe a few
*really* creaky old doors, too.
JGS <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Zinesser makes a paint for materials exposed to dampness. I think it is
> an acrylic latex and is guaranteed to prevent mold for 5 years +. JG
>
Generally speaking latex paints are permeable to water vapor. The
wood still 'breathes' and if water gets in to the wood through an
unpainted surface, like from above on a joist, it can evaporate
through the paint. That assumes the water only gets in rarely.
Many years ago my Dad had me paint the joists and subfloor in
our basement ceiling. It made a tremendous difference in terms
of brightening the laundry room and workshop. He had me wipe
the joists with a damp rag so that, in addition ot cleaning them,
the surface would be moistened and would not soak up quite so
much paint. The latex paint we used stuck well. I do not
remember the brand
A latex paint made especially for damp locations should be perfect
for your need.
--
FF
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 02:20:01 GMT, "RE Quick Transit"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>It will brighten things up. Think about getting a sprayer if it is the older
>rough cut lumber.
Oh yeah: it's a Boris Karloff basement, with stone walls, spider
webs, old dimension roug-cut lumber, a coal bin, etc.
"GregP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Would that cause any problems in the long run ? I would
> put on only one coat, so I assume that that, plus all of the
> cracks, gaps, etc will still let vapor pass through.
>
> thanks...
It will brighten things up. Think about getting a sprayer if it is the older
rough cut lumber.
On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 22:46:36 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>have you considered installing a pipe organ in it? maybe a few
>*really* creaky old doors, too.
We've got the creaky doors. How about a piano ? We've got
one upstairs that we're thinking of getting rid of. I figure if I
detune a dozen keys or so, and maybe break one or two,
iit would fit right in.
Paint can trap mold and moisture. Is whitewash porus>
Wilson
"Fred the Red Shirt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> JGS <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Zinesser makes a paint for materials exposed to dampness. I think it is
> > an acrylic latex and is guaranteed to prevent mold for 5 years +. JG
> >
>
> Generally speaking latex paints are permeable to water vapor. The
> wood still 'breathes' and if water gets in to the wood through an
> unpainted surface, like from above on a joist, it can evaporate
> through the paint. That assumes the water only gets in rarely.
>
> Many years ago my Dad had me paint the joists and subfloor in
> our basement ceiling. It made a tremendous difference in terms
> of brightening the laundry room and workshop. He had me wipe
> the joists with a damp rag so that, in addition ot cleaning them,
> the surface would be moistened and would not soak up quite so
> much paint. The latex paint we used stuck well. I do not
> remember the brand
>
> A latex paint made especially for damp locations should be perfect
> for your need.
>
> --
>
> FF
You can make things worse by trapping moisture under the paint. How about
something porus, maybe whitewash. I'd use clear copper naphthanate if
possible, but I'm not sure about its fumes.
Hopefully you'll get some ventilation. A dehumidifier will help too, as
will a membrane on the floor, if it's not slabbed.
Wilson
"GregP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This is probably not the right group for this, but I decided
> to ask anyway since a lot of people here know wood very
> well. I have a Boris Karloff basement, one of those with
> stone walls, exposed joists, spider webs, and - unfortunately-
> some mold. We tackled the mold last week. I am going
> to paint the stone walls with anti-somethingorother paint.
> I was thinking of also putting a coat on the overhead joists.
> Would that cause any problems in the long run ? I would
> put on only one coat, so I assume that that, plus all of the
> cracks, gaps, etc will still let vapor pass through.
>
> thanks...