I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!
, but I was wondering if there was anything
> available that was pre made that I could just slam down.
>
> Steve
Maybe you could use T Bolts. Just need a cut or fabricate a slot
which should be easy to rig up somehow. You would just need to keep
access so you can take the bolts out of the slot when you want a flush
floor. Also with T bolts you would get some adjustment so alignment is
less critical.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1573
On Aug 17, 7:50=A0am, "Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. =A0I have a roll around rout=
er
> table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
> able to unmount it quickly.
If you can fit plates to the feet, you can quickly attach to a simple
hole in the floor with a cleko type device. I've seen 'em in half
inch
diameter, should hold almost anything, and they come loose
with a push of a button.
A plate inset in the wood might be enough, or you can drill through
to the metal underneath and screw the plate to that.
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around
> router table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the
> floor, but be able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type
> of t bolts that I can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the
> female anchor in there flush with the floor, secure it in, and have
> enough room around it to blow out chips once I take it loose? I have
> a router table on a base, table saw, and metal bender I'd like to
> anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole will wallow in the
> wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow holes, drill
> it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor, and
> mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
> anything available that was pre made that I could just slam down.
>
> Steve
>
> visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
> free books while they last!
>
>
Take a look at insert nuts and T-nuts. The T-nut is easier to find, but
has a tendency to come out if a pulling force is applied away from the
prongs. The insert nut is better at staying put, but is a little harder
to find and may not allow as large of bolts as the T-nuts.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Steve B wrote:
> "Rich" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>
>>Take a look at these.
>>http://www.accuratefasteners.com/Inventory_3.php?Sub2CatID=LKA9500
>
>
> I've seen those. They just get too full of sand and swarf too quick.
Put the bolt back in when you remove the equipment attached.
> And they have to be spot on, or it is hard to get the bolts in.
How is that different than any other fastener?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote
> You could do the same thing by drilling a hole in the concrete. It could
> be left as just a hole, or by cutting a 4 inch section of pipe a little
> larger than a steel rod, then setting it permenantly into the concrete.
> The pipe would take the stress instead of possibly cracking out the
> concrete. Think that would work?
I forgot to add that you could weld a thin fender washer (with a diameter
larger than the hole in the floor) to a rod that you could drop into the
hole, so dirt and sawdust would not drop into the hole while you are not
using the hold downs.
I like this idea so much that I may do it for my jointer table.
--
Jim in NC
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
> table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
> able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
> can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
> flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
> out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
> saw, and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag,
> the hole will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut
> some vent blow holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a
> place on the floor, and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering
> if there was anything available that was pre made that I could just slam
> down.
>
Have you considered mounting the tools to a piece of plywood that would give
more stability to them, and not trying to temporarily fasten them to
flooring? By adding rollers to the plywood base that could be locked, you'd
gain the stability I think you want, while still being able to roll the
tools out of the way quickly. I did this with my planer, jointer and
sander, since all three were used with some long pieces and any suitable
location for infeed and outfeed clearance would put them in the way the
other 99% of the time.
I fabricated dust/chip pickups for each, along with a 4' to 7' long vac hose
that I could plug into a receiver by the workbench, along with nearby
suitable power. I could wheel the planer to its use location near the door,
set up outfeed rollers, connect to the DC and power and be working in easily
under 5 minutes, with tear down being even faster. When the casters were
locked, it didn't budge and the larger plywood base gave it excellent
stability.
Nonny
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote
> The router/table already has a pyramid shaped base on it with locking
> wheels. It just seems a little tall and top heavy right now.
How about putting a form onto the base, and pouring a concrete pad for the
bottom shelf, that would act as a counter-weight.
Instead of anchors, or locking rollers, I welded up an angle iron base for
my table saw at home, and put heavy casters on it so the base was just about
an inch off the floor. I also welded a 5/8" nut next to the casters, so a
bolt could be screwed in when the saw got to the correct location, and it
would lift the saw slightly off the casters. I welded a quarter inch rod
about 4 inches long onto the top of the bolt, so it could be used as a grip
to turn the bolt without a wrench. It made it so it would not wiggle at
all, and also had the advantage of being super easy to adjust the bolts like
floor levelers when the floor was not exactly true. I'm telling you, with a
heavy unit and leveling bolts, I have never wanted for hold downs. The
system worked like a charm.
I do have an idea for a hold down, if a heavy base and leveling bolts do not
work for you. Do you know what bench dogs for a work bench look like, and
how they work? In case you or others do not, picture a capital letter "P"
with the right side of the p cut half way down the right side. The left
vertical part of the letter goes into a hole that is a slightly loose fit.
You place the part projecting to the side onto what you want to hold down,
and smack the top of the letter with a mallet. It grips what you want to
hold down, due to it binding in the hole.
You could do the same thing by drilling a hole in the concrete. It could be
left as just a hole, or by cutting a 4 inch section of pipe a little larger
than a steel rod, then setting it permenantly into the concrete. The pipe
would take the stress instead of possibly cracking out the concrete. Think
that would work?
--
Jim in NC
"RES" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
>> table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
>> able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
>> can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
>> flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to
>> blow out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base,
>> table saw, and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a
>> lag, the hole will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate,
>> cut some vent blow holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out
>> a place on the floor, and mount that with countersinks, but I was
>> wondering if there was anything available that was pre made that I could
>> just slam down.
>>
>
> Have you considered mounting the tools to a piece of plywood that would
> give more stability to them, and not trying to temporarily fasten them to
> flooring? By adding rollers to the plywood base that could be locked,
> you'd gain the stability I think you want, while still being able to roll
> the tools out of the way quickly. I did this with my planer, jointer and
> sander, since all three were used with some long pieces and any suitable
> location for infeed and outfeed clearance would put them in the way the
> other 99% of the time.
>
> I fabricated dust/chip pickups for each, along with a 4' to 7' long vac
> hose that I could plug into a receiver by the workbench, along with nearby
> suitable power. I could wheel the planer to its use location near the
> door, set up outfeed rollers, connect to the DC and power and be working
> in easily under 5 minutes, with tear down being even faster. When the
> casters were locked, it didn't budge and the larger plywood base gave it
> excellent stability.
>
> Nonny
The router/table already has a pyramid shaped base on it with locking
wheels. It just seems a little tall and top heavy right now. I could
shorten it, and put a plywood base on it. The bender MUST be anchored to
the floor. With the other things, I just get a little shaky about them
moving around at all, especially when you're working alone, and trying your
best to get a straight cut.
The oversized plywood bases would also increase their storage footprint.
Not sure what I'm going to end up doing, just looking for ideas.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!
Steve B wrote:
> I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
> table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
> able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
> can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
> flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
> out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
> saw,
> and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
> hole
> will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
> blow holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
> floor, and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
> anything available that was pre made that I could just slam down.
>
> Steve
>
> visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
> free books while they last!
Take a look at these.
http://www.accuratefasteners.com/Inventory_3.php?Sub2CatID=LKA9500
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb
On 8/17/2010 7:06 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> "Steve B"<[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around
>> router table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the
>> floor, but be able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type
>> of t bolts that I can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the
>> female anchor in there flush with the floor, secure it in, and have
>> enough room around it to blow out chips once I take it loose? I have
>> a router table on a base, table saw, and metal bender I'd like to
>> anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole will wallow in the
>> wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow holes, drill
>> it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor, and
>> mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
>> anything available that was pre made that I could just slam down.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
>> free books while they last!
>>
>>
>
> Take a look at insert nuts and T-nuts. The T-nut is easier to find, but
> has a tendency to come out if a pulling force is applied away from the
> prongs. The insert nut is better at staying put, but is a little harder
> to find and may not allow as large of bolts as the T-nuts.
FWIW, Home Despot has a variety of inserts these days, however they
don't have the type that are themselves threaded. OTOH, if you have a
Harbor Fright nearby, they have a nice assortment of those boxed up for
something like 10 bucks.
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote
> Take a look at these.
> http://www.accuratefasteners.com/Inventory_3.php?Sub2CatID=LKA9500
I've seen those. They just get too full of sand and swarf too quick. And
they have to be spot on, or it is hard to get the bolts in.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last
"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> The router/table already has a pyramid shaped base on it with locking
>> wheels. It just seems a little tall and top heavy right now.
>
> How about putting a form onto the base, and pouring a concrete pad for the
> bottom shelf, that would act as a counter-weight.
>
> Instead of anchors, or locking rollers, I welded up an angle iron base for
> my table saw at home, and put heavy casters on it so the base was just
> about an inch off the floor. I also welded a 5/8" nut next to the
> casters, so a bolt could be screwed in when the saw got to the correct
> location, and it would lift the saw slightly off the casters. I welded a
> quarter inch rod about 4 inches long onto the top of the bolt, so it could
> be used as a grip to turn the bolt without a wrench. It made it so it
> would not wiggle at all, and also had the advantage of being super easy to
> adjust the bolts like floor levelers when the floor was not exactly true.
> I'm telling you, with a heavy unit and leveling bolts, I have never wanted
> for hold downs. The system worked like a charm.
>
> I do have an idea for a hold down, if a heavy base and leveling bolts do
> not work for you. Do you know what bench dogs for a work bench look like,
> and how they work? In case you or others do not, picture a capital letter
> "P" with the right side of the p cut half way down the right side. The
> left vertical part of the letter goes into a hole that is a slightly loose
> fit. You place the part projecting to the side onto what you want to hold
> down, and smack the top of the letter with a mallet. It grips what you
> want to hold down, due to it binding in the hole.
>
> You could do the same thing by drilling a hole in the concrete. It could
> be left as just a hole, or by cutting a 4 inch section of pipe a little
> larger than a steel rod, then setting it permenantly into the concrete.
> The pipe would take the stress instead of possibly cracking out the
> concrete. Think that would work?
> --
> Jim in NC
I saw one that had a concrete base on it, nicely poured into a wood form.
It went all around the base. There was a small 2 ton bottle jack that
jacked down a frame with four wheels that lifted it off the floor by the
wheels. It only had to be raised 1/4 to 1/2" to make it roll, and that made
it impossible to turn over. Get where you're going, and drop the jack. Of
course, only a welder could make one. I'm a welder.
On my 4' x 10' 2" x 1/4" angle iron welding table, I have 7/16" x 4"
carriage bolts with the nuts welded to the legs. The round heads face
downward. When it gets where it's going, it is leveled with a wrench to
turn the square head under the round head. If it is out in the dirt, I put
four 12" square concrete blocks. It works pretty well, but this one is
somewhat light, and I need to put two more in the middle. I did have one
that was 4' x 10' made out of 4" x 3/8 angle. Sorry I sold that table, but
it went with the business. It was a bear to move.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last