Jesse R Strawbridge wrote:
> I am by no means an expert on this but this might work:
>
> 1. Sand back to bare wood
> 2. Apply a thinned coat of de-waxed white shellac (1 pound cut maybe?)
> 3. Sand lightly after it dries
> 4. Apply a thin coat of stain and let it dry
> 5. Repeat staining until you get the color you want
> 6. Apply the finish
My answer would be more like:
1. Stand back 10 feet.
2. Squint.
3. Say out loud, "looks fine to me."
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
> them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
> very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain very
> lightly?
You could sand back to bare wood which may be difficult. You can sand
back most of the way and blend or dry brush stain for effect. If it is
water base stain you can often get most of it gone by using household
bleach either straight on 1/2 strength.
I often use 1/2# cut shellac and use a test piece. 1 or2# may be the
best on really open grain oak. Also, a gel stain is a great may to
minimize absorption. The minmax gel stains can givea an amazing result
if done tight.
You probably already know any end grain exposure is the worst.
Hope that helps.
MBR
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
> them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
> very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain very
> lightly?
You could sand back to bare wood which may be difficult. You can sand
back most of the way and blend or dry brush stain for effect. If it is
water base stain you can often get most of it gone by using household
bleach either straight on 1/2 strength.
I often use 1/2# cut shellac and use a test piece. 1 or2# may be the
best on really open grain oak. Also, a gel stain is a great may to
minimize absorption. The minmax gel stains can givea an amazing result
if done tight.
You probably already know any end grain exposure is the worst.
Hope that helps.
MBR
TOO LATE!!!.....
.....No actually, if you are working with porous or open grained wood,
it is best to, after "final" sanding go over it with a very
moist/almost wet rag or paper towel, let it dry (the common term is
"furring" or "fuzzing" and after drying you sand the "furr" or "fuzz"
off) then resand then repeat once or twice untill you get the wood
stable and THEN apply stain.
It may seem like a lot of work, but than again, does it save time to do
extra sanding before or after you apply the stain????
IMHO you have to treat wood that you want a nice finish on, whether it
is trim moulding or a gun stock, the same principles apply to prep.
I must say that if the 'boards and 'caps are rough enough to notice
after installation, then they definatly need a little more prep work.
Also, using an oil-base stain as opposed to a water base stain
certainly helps to keep from popping up the furr (this also applies to
the top coat as well, it will need more prep if you use water base).
I hope this helps for next time around.
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
> them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
> very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain very
> lightly?
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
> them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
> very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain very
> lightly?
I've had very good results staining oak and ash (similar open grain)
using a gel stain. The gel stain seems to help get a consistant
coloring without building up pigment in the open grain.
As far as sanding and restaing goes - I'd think that you would have to
sand all the way down to the "bottom" of the open grain pores to get
rid of the current finish. If a darker finish is OK you could lightly
sand and apply a darker gel stain to try to darken the rest of the wood
to match the open grain that still has a bunch of pigment in it.
"Jesse R Strawbridge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Buck Turgidson wrote:
>> My answer would be more like:
>>
>>>1. Stand back 10 feet.
>>>2. Squint.
>>>3. Say out loud, "looks fine to me."
>>>
>>
>> That's what I told the wife, but she didn't buy it.
>>
>>
>>
> Never works with my wife either.
I guess I got lucky. I would want to fix it, and it's my wife who would say,
"Nobody will notice. Just leave it"
--
Bob
Travel and Astronomy Photos
http://www3.sympatico.ca/bomo
You can try staining again assumming you have "not" applied
a top coat.
To even the stain out look for a gel stain of the
same brand. The gel stain will lay up on top and
will allow slightly more color control.
The next solution involves a hammer, wonder bar and some matches.
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
> them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
> very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain very
> lightly?
>
>
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
> them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
> very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain very
> lightly?
>
>
I am by no means an expert on this but this might work:
1. Sand back to bare wood
2. Apply a thinned coat of de-waxed white shellac (1 pound cut maybe?)
3. Sand lightly after it dries
4. Apply a thin coat of stain and let it dry
5. Repeat staining until you get the color you want
6. Apply the finish
Also, Red Oak has very open pores that often need to be filled before
staining.
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:jokOg.12076$Tl4.5447@dukeread06...
>I installed some oak baseboards and basecaps in my Foyer. After staining
>them, I see that there are some parts of the base cap where the grain is
>very open, and it absorbed much more stain and looks splotchy.
>
> What's the best way to remedy this? Can I sand this and re-apply stain
> very lightly?
>
This is common when you do not get enough stain in to all the pores of the
wood. In that spot you got enough but sounds like you were too skimpy on
the rest. I would simply try to apply more stain before sanding down again.
Keep in mind that sanding will fill these pores in the grain and you need to
blow them out with a compressor and air hose to open the grain up after
sanding. You should always to this with red oak before staining especially
if you do not intentionally fill the pores to start with.
"millleft" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> TOO LATE!!!.....
>
> .....No actually, if you are working with porous or open grained wood,
> it is best to, after "final" sanding go over it with a very
> moist/almost wet rag or paper towel, let it dry (the common term is
> "furring" or "fuzzing" and after drying you sand the "furr" or "fuzz"
> off) then resand then repeat once or twice untill you get the wood
> stable and THEN apply stain.
> It may seem like a lot of work, but than again, does it save time to do
> extra sanding before or after you apply the stain????
I have to disagree with you here. Wetting the wood down after sanding does
raise the grain and is suggested when using a water based stain HOWEVER If
you do not thoroughtly clean the surface and pores the water will lock the
dust into the pores and the pores will not accept stain as readily. This
practice commonly causes splotchy spots much like described by the OP. I
use an air hose to blow out all the pores to prevent this.