Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
points and then zipped the board down between them.
Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
past).
Jason
That will take a great deal of creativity. I strongly
suggest you buy a decent plunge router. There are a
great many on the market and this will allow you to make
mortising a joy and not such an ordeal.
Here are few examples:
http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/jigs/articles_454.shtml
http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/147/videos/setting-up-and-using-the-router-jig/
[email protected] wrote:
> Thanks all-
>
> I have a Sears router- not a plunge. I think all this mean is I'm
> going to have to be creative to get it to make the mortises, thats all.
Thanks all-
I have a Sears router- not a plunge. I think all this mean is I'm
going to have to be creative to get it to make the mortises, thats all.
Jason
Pat Barber wrote:
> Find your favorite router jig and throw that mortising machine
> away.
>
> A router makes mortising a fun thing. A good jig is essential
> but that can be made in a couple of minutes...
>
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
> > because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
> > think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
> > points and then zipped the board down between them.
> >
> > Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
> > for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
> >
> > Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
> > past).
> >
> > Jason
> >
Each, if the mockup works and holds, will be 3/4 deep, 1/2 wide, and 1
1/4 tall. These are going into 2x2" maple rails and the supports are
1x2" maple slats. They'll hold 6-10 wine bottles, which translates to
about 30lbs per shelf (15lbs per rail). They *should* hold that just
fine, although I haven't tested what would happen if the top should
pancake...
I would find it much easier to make them 3/4 deep, 1/4 wide, and 1"
tall but that gets back to trying to figure out how to make everything
correctly and accurately the first time thru- hence my interest in jigs
around router mortising.
Jason
lenny wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Morris Dovey
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > [email protected] (in
> > [email protected]) said:
> >
> > | Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
> > | because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to
> > | be, I think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I
> > | cut the end points and then zipped the board down between them.
> > |
> > | Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
> > | for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
> > |
> > | Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
> > | past).
> >
> > Do it all with the router and cut round-ended tenons to match.
> >
> > --
> > Morris Dovey
> > DeSoto Solar
> > DeSoto, Iowa USA
> > http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
> >
> >
>
> First and most importantly, squared tennons give you much better
> structural integrity.
>
> What size are these mortises to be cut? -- How wide, how long, how deep?
>
> For most mortises up to 1/2" wide, hand mortising is pretty darned
> fast. If they're the usual 1/4"x 2-3" mortises, then 48 should be as
> fast by hand, and a lot more fun. The deal is to start the mortise
> about 3/16" or so from their ends, strike down with the flat chisel
> side toward that end, do the other end likewise, and then pry the
> waste-wood out. Repeat and repeat.
> (Sure wish there were a way to sketch here)
>
> At least get yourself a good mortising chisel to square the ends --
> much faster than setting up a mortising machine, and since you can
> place your mortising chisel precisely, more accurate as well.
>
> lenny
Sad to say I'm already aware of this. I was making a shelf for the
dining room- and the cove bit 'wandered' a bit as I progressed. Had to
retighten the collet 5x across the 8 feet of the shelf length.
When I finished I was more worried what would have happen had it come
free at those speeds....
Jason
Mike Marlow wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Thanks all-
> >
> > I have a Sears router- not a plunge. I think all this mean is I'm
> > going to have to be creative to get it to make the mortises, thats all.
> >
> > Jason
>
> Inside joke here Jason, but if you have a Sears router, you indeed have a
> plunger router...
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
Some tips on morticing with a router at the :
http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html link.
*********************************************************************************
[email protected] wrote:
> Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
> because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
> think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
> points and then zipped the board down between them.
>
> Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
> for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
>
> Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
> past).
>
> Jason
In article <[email protected]>, Morris Dovey
<[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] (in
> [email protected]) said:
>
> | Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
> | because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to
> | be, I think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I
> | cut the end points and then zipped the board down between them.
> |
> | Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
> | for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
> |
> | Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
> | past).
>
> Do it all with the router and cut round-ended tenons to match.
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
>
>
First and most importantly, squared tennons give you much better
structural integrity.
What size are these mortises to be cut? -- How wide, how long, how deep?
For most mortises up to 1/2" wide, hand mortising is pretty darned
fast. If they're the usual 1/4"x 2-3" mortises, then 48 should be as
fast by hand, and a lot more fun. The deal is to start the mortise
about 3/16" or so from their ends, strike down with the flat chisel
side toward that end, do the other end likewise, and then pry the
waste-wood out. Repeat and repeat.
(Sure wish there were a way to sketch here)
At least get yourself a good mortising chisel to square the ends --
much faster than setting up a mortising machine, and since you can
place your mortising chisel precisely, more accurate as well.
lenny
[email protected] (in
[email protected]) said:
| Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
| because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to
| be, I think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I
| cut the end points and then zipped the board down between them.
|
| Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
| for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
|
| Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
| past).
Do it all with the router and cut round-ended tenons to match.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
No.
"lenny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:241020061318045029%[email protected]...
> First and most importantly, squared tennons give you much better
> structural integrity.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks all-
>
> I have a Sears router- not a plunge. I think all this mean is I'm
> going to have to be creative to get it to make the mortises, thats all.
>
> Jason
Inside joke here Jason, but if you have a Sears router, you indeed have a
plunger router...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 02:56:15 GMT, "Stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>Skip the mortiser all together. Rout 'em out!
Seconded.
I make my tenons slightly fat on the tablesaw, shoulder plane them to
fit and remove the tenon corners with a sharp chisel. A rasp or hard
sanding block will also round the tenons nicely. Some folks use jigs
to make the tenons with a router, so they start out with rounded
corners.
On 20 Oct 2006 18:52:01 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
>because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
>think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
>points and then zipped the board down between them.
>
>Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
>for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
>
>Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
>past).
I do it differently than the other posts in this particular thread,
and it may be helpful to you (or not.)
I usually carefully lay out the mortises with a square and a pencil,
then make the center line of the area to be removed, and mark it at
1/2 of the total width from each end, with several marks in between
the two. I whack each of the marks with a nail set to insure that the
drill bit seats properly, then drill several holes with a forsner bit
to the desired depth.
After you've got most of the material removed, it's very easy to clean
up the leftover bits in the corners and on the edges of the mortise
with a chisel.
The benefit to this is that it makes cutting the tenons on the table
saw simpler, and there's no need to round off the corners like you
would with the router method.
It is fast? Not at first, no. But I made a park bench a year or two
ago with 96 hand-cut mortises using this technique, and after the
first couple, the rest got easier and easier until it now it doesn't
take signifigantly longer to cut them by hand then it would to set up
and use a dedicated mortising machine.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
> because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
> think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
> points and then zipped the board down between them.
>
> Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
> for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
>
> Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
> past).
This may help
http://www.patwarner.com/morticer.html
http://www.patwarner.com/tenonmaker.html
Find your favorite router jig and throw that mortising machine
away.
A router makes mortising a fun thing. A good jig is essential
but that can be made in a couple of minutes...
[email protected] wrote:
> Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
> because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
> think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
> points and then zipped the board down between them.
>
> Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
> for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
>
> Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
> past).
>
> Jason
>