On Feb 6, 4:53=A0pm, "Kevin" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
Never because my fence only goes to 30", actually a little less. I
would rather have it than not so if you have an option get the 50"
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
Typically I would say every 4th cut on average.
yeah.. found a saw with 30" capacity..
so i'm off pricing rails and guide for 50"..
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
OK.. I'm game..
so 1.5" angle for the front and back rails.. need to drill a few holes for
attaching to table and extension table. These don't seem to need to be
critically staight, but fairly straight across the top would be best. Is
1.5" angle iron 1.5" high and 1.5" wide? Hmm.. just eyeballing that, I
think the commercial fences are more like 2" or at least thicker stock than
standard angle iron -- 3/16" thick or better.
Now the 2x3 tube needs to be pretty flat and straight on the fence bearing
side. I need to drill holes in the bottom of the angle iron and tap some
holes into the tube. That's manageable I suppose.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:LzIqj.10092$EK3.3214@trndny04...
> Kevin wrote:
>> it's a nice 10 year old Jet cabinet saw.. I'm asking Jet if I can get
>> the 50" rails and guide and who much..
>>
>> my guess close to $250.
>>
>> anybody need 30" rails and guide for 1/2 that?
>
> The rails are just standard steel stock, 1.5" angle iron and 2" x 3"
> tubing. I was able to pick up what was needed for about $35.00 at a steel
> supplier from their cut-off/scrap pile.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Metal place said tubing is standard 11 guage which is about 1/8".. so that's
it.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Mx5rj.367$r03.362@trnddc08...
> Nova wrote:
>
>>
>> I just when down to the shop and measured:
>>
>> Back "L" rail - 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" thick
>> Front "L" rail - 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" thick
>> Front rectangular tubing - 2"h x 3"w x just under 1/8" thick
>>
>
> ***** CORRECTION *****
>
> Both the front and back "L" rails are 3/16" thick....
>
> Measure twice, type once! ;-(
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Metal shop said tubing is 'hot rolled' not cold rolled.. but it should be
pretty good.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:At5rj.333$r03.115@trnddc08...
> Kevin wrote:
>
>> OK.. I'm game..
>>
>> so 1.5" angle for the front and back rails.. need to drill a few holes
>> for attaching to table and extension table. These don't seem to need to
>> be critically staight, but fairly straight across the top would be best.
>> Is 1.5" angle iron 1.5" high and 1.5" wide? Hmm.. just eyeballing that,
>> I think the commercial fences are more like 2" or at least thicker stock
>> than standard angle iron -- 3/16" thick or better.
>>
>> Now the 2x3 tube needs to be pretty flat and straight on the fence
>> bearing side. I need to drill holes in the bottom of the angle iron and
>> tap some holes into the tube. That's manageable I suppose.
>>
>
> I just when down to the shop and measured:
>
> Back "L" rail - 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" thick
> Front "L" rail - 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" thick
> Front rectangular tubing - 2"h x 3"w x just under 1/8" thick
>
> Tap the tubing, drill the holes on the "L" stock oversized to allow for
> adjustment.
>
> When I ordered my saw I ordered the Jet Deluxe Commercial fence.
> A long story but in the end I ended up with Jet's "HomeShop",
> "Commercial" and "Deluxe Commercial" fences. They all use the same rails.
>
> The "HomeShop" fence was used to upgrade a friend's old Craftsman saw.
>
> Jet's tech support told me that the rails are standard steel stock.
> (They don't machine it any straighter/flatter than it comes from their
> supplier).
>
> Go for it!
>
>
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Might be cheaper for me to get a 20' stock of 2.5" x 2.5" angle.
Any reason you can see why the back rail cannot be 2.5"?
I assume they just do it that way to save $s, but it may cost be about the
same to get one chunk unless I can come across some scrap.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Mx5rj.367$r03.362@trnddc08...
> Nova wrote:
>
>>
>> I just when down to the shop and measured:
>>
>> Back "L" rail - 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" thick
>> Front "L" rail - 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" thick
>> Front rectangular tubing - 2"h x 3"w x just under 1/8" thick
>>
>
> ***** CORRECTION *****
>
> Both the front and back "L" rails are 3/16" thick....
>
> Measure twice, type once! ;-(
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
I'll try to stick w/ spec then..
2.5" angle on front
1.5" angle on rear
2x3" tube as guide
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eN6rj.22$J93.2@trndny08...
> Kevin wrote:
>> Might be cheaper for me to get a 20' stock of 2.5" x 2.5" angle.
>>
>> Any reason you can see why the back rail cannot be 2.5"?
>>
>> I assume they just do it that way to save $s, but it may cost be about
>> the same to get one chunk unless I can come across some scrap.
>>
>
> The back rail never touches the fence. It is used to hold the table and
> table extensions in line. 2.5" angle would have to be drilled so that the
> top edge of the "L" didn't extend above the table. There's not much room
> between the rear 1.5" angle and the blade guard/splitter support arm. It
> seems it might be a tight squeeze to clear the support for the blade
> guard/splitter with the blade tilted to 45 degrees as the support arm
> swings up slightly as the blade if tilted.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
I'm going to start another thread asking about making this myself. I'm a
bit concerned about getting the accuracy.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eN6rj.22$J93.2@trndny08...
> Kevin wrote:
>> Might be cheaper for me to get a 20' stock of 2.5" x 2.5" angle.
>>
>> Any reason you can see why the back rail cannot be 2.5"?
>>
>> I assume they just do it that way to save $s, but it may cost be about
>> the same to get one chunk unless I can come across some scrap.
>>
>
> The back rail never touches the fence. It is used to hold the table and
> table extensions in line. 2.5" angle would have to be drilled so that the
> top edge of the "L" didn't extend above the table. There's not much room
> between the rear 1.5" angle and the blade guard/splitter support arm. It
> seems it might be a tight squeeze to clear the support for the blade
> guard/splitter with the blade tilted to 45 degrees as the support arm
> swings up slightly as the blade if tilted.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 14:53:25 -0700, "Kevin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
Maybe twice in 7 years. And that's just a guess since I don't
specifically recall ever using it except to get the fence out of the
way of a crosscut. Don't even do that anymore since I got a good SCMS
workstation to handle the crosscutting. Would I rather have the extra
length than not have it? Yes, even when my shop was much smaller than
it is now.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
I only have a 30" fence and there are times I wish I had, or needed a 50"
one, so if you have the space, go for the 50".
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor, OnlineToolReviews.com
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 180+ woodworking product reviews online!
======================================
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
J. Clarke wrote:
>> Best solution is an honest to gawd panel saw...one of those jobbies
>> where you can stand a sheet vertically, position the saw carriage,
>> push a button and the cushioned carriage arms clamp the work in
>> place,
>> saw comes down and cuts, saw returns to top when finished. I covet
>> one of those, will never have it though <sigh>.
>
> If you've got the space for one, and don't insist on it being fully
> automatic, there are plans available for several shop-made versions.
Thanks but I don't have the space and even if I did I'd settle for
nothing less than the automatic one. They are a joy especially if
someone else schleps the sheet to the saw :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Feb 6, 4:53=A0pm, "Kevin" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
Hello Kevin,
If cost is the only factor it is well worth getting the longer rails.
I have been using my set up with a sled to cut 42 rails for a hutch
base and 48 inch boards for the upper section. Even if you only use
yours 5 % of the time you will appreciate the ease with which you can
make those wider cuts.
Marc
Kevin wrote:
> OK.. I'm game..
>
> so 1.5" angle for the front and back rails.. need to drill a few holes for
> attaching to table and extension table. These don't seem to need to be
> critically staight, but fairly straight across the top would be best. Is
> 1.5" angle iron 1.5" high and 1.5" wide? Hmm.. just eyeballing that, I
> think the commercial fences are more like 2" or at least thicker stock than
> standard angle iron -- 3/16" thick or better.
>
> Now the 2x3 tube needs to be pretty flat and straight on the fence bearing
> side. I need to drill holes in the bottom of the angle iron and tap some
> holes into the tube. That's manageable I suppose.
>
I just when down to the shop and measured:
Back "L" rail - 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" thick
Front "L" rail - 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" thick
Front rectangular tubing - 2"h x 3"w x just under 1/8" thick
Tap the tubing, drill the holes on the "L" stock oversized to allow for
adjustment.
When I ordered my saw I ordered the Jet Deluxe Commercial fence.
A long story but in the end I ended up with Jet's "HomeShop",
"Commercial" and "Deluxe Commercial" fences. They all use the same rails.
The "HomeShop" fence was used to upgrade a friend's old Craftsman saw.
Jet's tech support told me that the rails are standard steel stock.
(They don't machine it any straighter/flatter than it comes from their
supplier).
Go for it!
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Recalling what your shop looks like, a 96"
is gonna be a real stretch. The outboard
table would be "outdoors" as we say in the
south.
Swingman wrote:
> No kidding .... especially for cabinets and furniture casework.
>
> Almost all built-in cabinets are over 30" tall/wide, and much of the
> casework on sideboards, tall chests, and even tables can exceed 50".
>
> Actually, wish I had 96" fence capacity ... 52" is too often not enough.
>
>
Given that you can buy them already with a nice
powder coating on them, why would you want to ???
You could visit the Biesemeyer site at one time
and check out factory "blems" but apparently
"Black & Darker" has removed that "feature".
Being "alert" would be better... Lowe's has
been selling 30" Biesemeyer fences for under
$100 for the last few months......
I got one for $62...(beep-beep)
Kevin wrote:
> I'm going to start another thread asking about making this myself. I'm a
> bit concerned about getting the accuracy.
>
Kevin wrote:
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
Since I don't have long rails, never.
For me, the only possible use of the longer rails would be ripping off
less than 18" (the offcut) from a 4x8 sheet.
IMO, more important than rail length in ripping sheet goods, is fore
and aft support of the sheet. Let's face it: ripping a 4x8 sheet on a
table saw is a PITA...the sheet is heavy and awkward and the fence
doesn't extend far enough forward. Those deficiencies can be
mitigated but you are then devoting a HUGE area to the table saw.
Best solution is an honest to gawd panel saw...one of those jobbies
where you can stand a sheet vertically, position the saw carriage,
push a button and the cushioned carriage arms clamp the work in place,
saw comes down and cuts, saw returns to top when finished. I covet
one of those, will never have it though <sigh>.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Pat Barber" wrote in message
> Recalling what your shop looks like, a 96"
> is gonna be a real stretch. The outboard
> table would be "outdoors" as we say in the
> south.
> Swingman wrote:
> > Actually, wish I had 96" fence capacity ... 52" is too often not enough.
Theoretically possible, as Shop is 18' x 18', and where there's a will ...
And who says you have to move around inside a shop anyhow?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:JSCqj.110737$ds2.49009@trnddc05...
> Kevin wrote:
>> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
> Since I don't have long rails, never.
>
Ditto. But measuring to the other side of the blade on sheet goods has
become such second nature that I don't even worry about it. That long
"horse" on the left supports the longer piece almost as well as SWMBO. Well,
better, but don't tell her. Has some of that UHMW plastic up top. Now if
only I could get better access to the on/off switch. SWMBO says it's my gut
growing larger, but I think they're making the panels wider.
That, and I was obliged, under pressure, to sell my pickup in favor of a
grandchild-carrying vehicle with a back seat last year. Now I take my big
aluminum fence, my cutting plan, and my 18V Bosch circular and/or jig saws
with me to the home center. I cut there and stack on the roof rack. Hate
to pull the trailer for just a sheet or two.
Kevin wrote:
> it's a nice 10 year old Jet cabinet saw.. I'm asking Jet if I can get the
> 50" rails and guide and who much..
>
> my guess close to $250.
>
> anybody need 30" rails and guide for 1/2 that?
>
>
The rails are just standard steel stock, 1.5" angle iron and 2" x 3"
tubing. I was able to pick up what was needed for about $35.00 at a
steel supplier from their cut-off/scrap pile.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Nova wrote:
>
> I just when down to the shop and measured:
>
> Back "L" rail - 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" thick
> Front "L" rail - 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" thick
> Front rectangular tubing - 2"h x 3"w x just under 1/8" thick
>
***** CORRECTION *****
Both the front and back "L" rails are 3/16" thick....
Measure twice, type once! ;-(
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I"m assuming the fence itself will work just fine.. so I just need the
> rails.. 3 parts.. front , back, and guide
>
Get yourself a 50" Vega. You won't be sorry. If it's in the way take it off
and lay it aside.
Kevin wrote:
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
Depends on what I'm building. Sometimes hardly ever, other times, every
other cut. If you use a decent amount of sheet goods, you'll use it often.
Remember, with precautions, the fence also makes a great stop for
crosscutting.
For example, say I'm dadoing a bunch of identical 7' shelf sides. I set
the fence, drop the stock into the sled and make all the cuts with the
end butted against the fence. If 52" is too short, I work from the
other end. For through crosscuts, I add a block to the fence to prevent
pinching the stock between the blade and fence.
If you're not using more than 30", the rest of the table can also be
handy for holding stacks of parts as you machine them.
Kevin wrote:
> Might be cheaper for me to get a 20' stock of 2.5" x 2.5" angle.
>
> Any reason you can see why the back rail cannot be 2.5"?
>
> I assume they just do it that way to save $s, but it may cost be about the
> same to get one chunk unless I can come across some scrap.
>
The back rail never touches the fence. It is used to hold the table and
table extensions in line. 2.5" angle would have to be drilled so that
the top edge of the "L" didn't extend above the table. There's not much
room between the rear 1.5" angle and the blade guard/splitter support
arm. It seems it might be a tight squeeze to clear the support for the
blade guard/splitter with the blade tilted to 45 degrees as the support
arm swings up slightly as the blade if tilted.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
dadiOH wrote:
> Kevin wrote:
>> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
> Since I don't have long rails, never.
>
> For me, the only possible use of the longer rails would be ripping
> off
> less than 18" (the offcut) from a 4x8 sheet.
>
> IMO, more important than rail length in ripping sheet goods, is fore
> and aft support of the sheet. Let's face it: ripping a 4x8 sheet on
> a
> table saw is a PITA...the sheet is heavy and awkward and the fence
> doesn't extend far enough forward. Those deficiencies can be
> mitigated but you are then devoting a HUGE area to the table saw.
>
> Best solution is an honest to gawd panel saw...one of those jobbies
> where you can stand a sheet vertically, position the saw carriage,
> push a button and the cushioned carriage arms clamp the work in
> place,
> saw comes down and cuts, saw returns to top when finished. I covet
> one of those, will never have it though <sigh>.
If you've got the space for one, and don't insist on it being fully
automatic, there are plans available for several shop-made versions.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
Can't since I have a 30" and not enough room for the larger one.
In the 6 or so years I've had it, maybe a half dozen times I really wished I
had the 50 but I'm able to work around any other time.
I don't work with a lot of sheet goods though. If I did, the 50" would be a
must.
On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 16:12:06 -0700, "Kevin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>yeah.. found a saw with 30" capacity..
>
>so i'm off pricing rails and guide for 50"..
Depending on the brand of fence you may be able to cheat a little.
With the 30" Bies you can move the fence over one set of bolt holes
and add about 8" or 9" to it's cutting capacity right of the blade. Of
course this does cut down on cutting capacity to the left of the
blade. You also need to replace the scale which is easily done.
Oh, and to answer your question...the first time you need to cut
anything that's 1" longer than the rails you have (no matter which
rails you have) you'll wish you had longer ones. :-)
Mike O.
In my own present workshop never, due to having i) having a 30 inch fence
and ii) not having any room to the right due to location of other tools.
For items < about 16 inch depth I can cut on my radial arm saw. Above this
depth I either have to move several tools, make temporary supports, or elect
to move outside and arrange temporary supports and use my circular saw with
a 4ft or 8ft straight edge. This works well, but takes far too long to
setup.
I do the latter a few times a year. So far I am able to hold off on such
tasks to be outside winter conditions.
If space were not a constraint, I would much prefer to have a 50inch fence
even though my use is not frequent. I value speed of setup and cutting with
the table saw.
I cannot use one just yet since I would have to get rid of some other tools
which are used frequently, e.g. bandsaw, with my present constraints which
are due to other non-tool objects which need to share the same "workshop"
space.
I gave up on cars being in my workshop a long time ago, but I do not have
alternate locations for my John Deere tractor, attachments, wood storage,
etc.
Dave Paine.
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>
"Leon" wrote in message
>
> "Kevin" wrote in message
>
> > how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
> >
>
> Typically I would say every 4th cut on average.
No kidding .... especially for cabinets and furniture casework.
Almost all built-in cabinets are over 30" tall/wide, and much of the
casework on sideboards, tall chests, and even tables can exceed 50".
Actually, wish I had 96" fence capacity ... 52" is too often not enough.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> how often do you use your TS fence > 30"?
>>
>
> Typically I would say every 4th cut on average.
To add a bit, I can easily square up glued up panels with the extra
capacity. Almost every time I cut up a sheet of plywood I go beyond 30".
When I only had 30" capacity I can easily recall almost every furniture
project requiring me to make a "less than desirable cut" because of the
limitations.
If room is a concern, remember it only adds 20", less than 2 feet, to the
length of your saw.