I am making a solid core bed frame. The headboard is 84" x 60" x 4".
To get the 4" thickness I intend to glue up several 3/4" and 1/2"
sheets of plywood. I intend to use A-1 mahogany venered sheets for the
outsides.
I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
outside 3".
Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
veneer to it.
I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
Thanks.
Fri, Nov 7, 2003, 12:40pm (EST-3) [email protected]
(Mark=A0Pope) wants to khow:
<snip> How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
apply even pressure. <snip>
Several ways to glue it. Could always cut strips, and glue them
one at a time, but that's probably not the effect you want. Altho, a
giant checkerboard effect would be kinda neat.
Use a batch of heavy weights.
But, the one I like was done by putting a large sheet of steel
plate on top of plywood to be glued, then parking the front wheels of a
pickup on it overnight. Worked great. Oh, it wasn't me that did it. I
suppose you could even use one of those tacky little Japanese cars for
that, but who'd want to say they used one, later?
JOAT
My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
from human beings as possible.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 7 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
On 7 Nov 2003 12:40:39 -0800, [email protected] (Mark Pope)
scribbled
>Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
>glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>
>I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
>veneer to it.
Like others have said, consider a torsion box design. It would be much
lighter and almost as strong.
To glue the top sheet, you could use go-sticks. These are pieces of
wood that go from your panel to the ceiling at a slight angle.
Pressure is created by the sticks being a little too long and jamming
them against the ceiling. I made a 40'X92' torsion box table. To glue
the plywood, I jammed vertical 2X4's against the joists, they sat on
2X10's lying flat on top of several sheets of plywood which were on
top of the plywood I was gluing to the torsion box grid pattern.
I'll just post a series of pictures to ABPF & ABPW to show the process
I used. Been wanting to do that for a while, anyway.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 13:13:17 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
<[email protected]> queried:
>
>"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> To glue the top sheet, you could use go-sticks. These are pieces of
>> wood that go from your panel to the ceiling at a slight angle.
>> Pressure is created by the sticks being a little too long and jamming
>> them against the ceiling. I made a 40'X92' torsion box table. To glue
^^^^^^^
>> the plywood, I jammed vertical 2X4's against the joists, they sat on
>> 2X10's lying flat on top of several sheets of plywood which were on
>> top of the plywood I was gluing to the torsion box grid pattern.
>
>building jets in your spare time on that table?
Oops! Can I blame it on a stuck shift key? 'Snot my fault, honest. :-)
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
Do a search for Torsion Box construction and then use your good sheet as the
side that shows. Also lookup Cauls - these will be clamped at the ends but
due to their shape (slight convex) will press down in the middle - or
wherever the caul contacts the surface depending on how you make the caul.
Bob S.
"Mark Pope" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a solid core bed frame. The headboard is 84" x 60" x 4".
> To get the 4" thickness I intend to glue up several 3/4" and 1/2"
> sheets of plywood. I intend to use A-1 mahogany venered sheets for the
> outsides.
>
> I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
> one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
> it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
> apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
> outside 3".
>
> Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
> glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>
> I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
> veneer to it.
>
> I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
> that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
>
> Thanks.
[email protected] (Mark Pope) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
> one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
> it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
> apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
> outside 3".
>
> Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
> glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
I would use Epoxy. Instead of clamping, just pile weights on top
(cinder blocks, or whatever's handy). Unlike yellow glue, Epoxy
is gap filling, and does not require a firm contact between the
two parts being glued.
Caveat here is that if you use too much concentrated weight, you
might end up with some wavy-ness in the result.
An alternative might be to screw the last sheet, remove the screws,
drill out the holes, and plug them (which is commonly done in boat
building). With some planning this could have a decorative effect.
> I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
> that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
Vacuum bagging is the best solution for this. Look for a local
boatshop in the phone book.
John
(who, like everyone else, is wondering what you need a 4" thick
solid headboard for)
That headboard is going to weigh a ton. (actually only about 500 lbs.)
Why do you want to do such a thing?
I'd make it hollow core unless you are a gorilla and have a gorilla friend
to help you move it.
It is flat so lay it on a flat surface and use some weights on the top
(buckets of sand or even dirt or water will work)
-Jack
"Mark Pope" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a solid core bed frame. The headboard is 84" x 60" x 4".
> To get the 4" thickness I intend to glue up several 3/4" and 1/2"
> sheets of plywood. I intend to use A-1 mahogany venered sheets for the
> outsides.
>
> I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
> one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
> it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
> apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
> outside 3".
>
> Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
> glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>
> I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
> veneer to it.
>
> I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
> that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
>
> Thanks.
"Mark Pope" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a solid core bed frame. The headboard is 84" x 60" x 4".
> To get the 4" thickness I intend to glue up several 3/4" and 1/2"
> sheets of plywood. I intend to use A-1 mahogany venered sheets for the
> outsides.
>
> I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
> one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
> it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
> apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
> outside 3".
>
> Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
> glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>
> I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
> veneer to it.
>
> I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
> that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
talk to boat repair places.
> Thanks.
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 7 Nov 2003 12:40:39 -0800, [email protected] (Mark Pope)
> scribbled
> >Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
> >glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
> >
> >I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
> >veneer to it.
>
> Like others have said, consider a torsion box design. It would be much
> lighter and almost as strong.
>
> To glue the top sheet, you could use go-sticks. These are pieces of
> wood that go from your panel to the ceiling at a slight angle.
> Pressure is created by the sticks being a little too long and jamming
> them against the ceiling. I made a 40'X92' torsion box table. To glue
> the plywood, I jammed vertical 2X4's against the joists, they sat on
> 2X10's lying flat on top of several sheets of plywood which were on
> top of the plywood I was gluing to the torsion box grid pattern.
building jets in your spare time on that table?
> I'll just post a series of pictures to ABPF & ABPW to show the process
> I used. Been wanting to do that for a while, anyway.
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" twice
> in reply address for real email address
Thanks for the advice, and for it I owe you an answer for the
thickness. I built a sleighbed using the torsion box design. The curls
at each end have a diameter of 12 inches. I used wigglewood and then
veneer. It was time intensive. I don't have the luxury of time for
this project and need to finish it quickly, call me lazy. I am
removing a rectangle area from the head board and footboard and
replacing it with a framed lattice. The area is 30" x 76". The head
board won't weigh more that 370 lbs based on a posting I read that
3/4" plywood weighs about 65lb.
Sorry for the boring answer. I have no intentions of securing
restraints to it. :-) I have three children under 8 that show up at
all times during the night.
Okay I have to ask,
Why 4" thick , or should I ask ???
But to answer your question make the last one your first one, screw from the
back and layer from front to back
If you do not want screw holes in the back contact a clean sheet of 1/4"
something to cover it all
4" thick huh !!!!!!!
"Mark Pope" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a solid core bed frame. The headboard is 84" x 60" x 4".
> To get the 4" thickness I intend to glue up several 3/4" and 1/2"
> sheets of plywood. I intend to use A-1 mahogany venered sheets for the
> outsides.
>
> I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
> one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
> it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
> apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
> outside 3".
>
> Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
> glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>
> I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
> veneer to it.
>
> I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
> that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
>
> Thanks.
On 7 Nov 2003 12:40:39 -0800, [email protected] (Mark Pope)
wrote:
>I am making a solid core bed frame. The headboard is 84" x 60" x 4".
>To get the 4" thickness I intend to glue up several 3/4" and 1/2"
>sheets of plywood. I intend to use A-1 mahogany venered sheets for the
>outsides.
>
>I plan to to glue and screw the sheets together except for the last
>one. How can I attach the last sheet? If I use wood glue I must clamp
>it. Can someone provide a link/instructions on how to clamp this to
>apply even pressure. Obviously hand clamps will only secure the
>outside 3".
>
>Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
>glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>
>I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
>veneer to it.
>
>I live in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone know of a commerical woodshop
>that can bag and vacuum the sheets?
>
>Thanks.
Your headboard will weigh a lot! I'd make 3.5" thick grid of thin ply
or even cardboard and secure the shell with traditional joinery.
You'll get 95% of the strength of the solid piece.
But, if you still want to sandwich all these together... You could
use yellow carpenter' s glue and weigh the assembly using sand bags,
cans of paint, rocks, 5-gallon buckets of water, etc, gluing one layer
at a time on a flat surface. I've done this--the glue will dries much
slower than expected so have patience with the cure time.
That was nice of you to post on ABPW but I only see 3 pictures out of
the lot. Could you let me know if you were intended to send more
pictures to go with the text? thanks!
dave
Luigi Zanasi wrote:
> On 7 Nov 2003 12:40:39 -0800, [email protected] (Mark Pope)
> scribbled
>
>>Should I consider using different bonding material, such as a poly
>>glue or contact cement that don't require claming?
>>
>>I really don't want to glue and screw the last sheet on and glue
>>veneer to it.
>
>
> Like others have said, consider a torsion box design. It would be much
> lighter and almost as strong.
>
> To glue the top sheet, you could use go-sticks. These are pieces of
> wood that go from your panel to the ceiling at a slight angle.
> Pressure is created by the sticks being a little too long and jamming
> them against the ceiling. I made a 40'X92' torsion box table. To glue
> the plywood, I jammed vertical 2X4's against the joists, they sat on
> 2X10's lying flat on top of several sheets of plywood which were on
> top of the plywood I was gluing to the torsion box grid pattern.
>
> I'll just post a series of pictures to ABPF & ABPW to show the process
> I used. Been wanting to do that for a while, anyway.
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" twice
> in reply address for real email address