One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection. I=
t's a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/=
16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfect=
ions with CA glue. What's the process? What impact does this have on fini=
shing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?
TIA
Larry
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 3/1/2013 1:02 AM, Dave wrote:
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20069&cat=1,190,42997
>
>I make lots of imperfections. Maybe I should just make the whole project
>out of that stuff?
LOL... glad I wasn't drinking my coffee. ;~)
On Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:02:49 PM UTC-8, Upscale wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:37:58 -0800 (PST), "Gramp's shop" >One of the mapl=
e boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection. It's a thin -- ma=
ybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch =
deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue=
. What's the process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use=
of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions? I'd suggest using o=
ne of these to fill your scar. I have a set and frequently use one of them =
to fill indentations larger than your 1/16" scar. http://www.leevalley.com/=
en/wood/page.aspx?p=3D20069&cat=3D1,190,42997
Keep in mind wax\shellac types sticks are used AFTER you finish finishing. =
So they are used after you stain, and top coat. But before you wax (if you =
are waxing. The main reason is that no matter what you fill with, it will N=
OT stain or color that same from the top coat as the surrounding wood. It a=
lways looks different. So adding a filler after the fact lets you match the=
color more precisely. Also, if you have any other color differences or gra=
in patterns in the surrounding wood, you can modify the dent so it looks mo=
re like a natural anomily and then a fill with a liitle off color is OK.
Another approach is to do what is called a "dutchman" patch or repair. Goog=
le it. It is a sort of inlay method. You use the same wood to make a filler=
piece, cut a shallow mortise in a shape that follows grain lines and done =
well it ends up hiding well. Does take some talent. It can easily look much=
worse than the original problem but done well can be invisible. Again, dut=
chmen can be done to look like a natural anomily so exact match is not the =
goal. I have inlayed a knot before into pieces that have a few other knots =
already to hid a hammer ding.
"Gramp's shop" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>John ...
>Thanks for the reply. It is a rather modest natural defect. I think it
>adds a bit of interest to the piece, but my customer -- my son -- believes
>it is an >imperfection that needs correction. I'm going to try to educate
>him on the vagaries of wood and the inherent beauty therein. This is hard
>rock maple, >not laminate for heaven's sake!
Larry,
I know the type... ;~)
If he is insistent, and the boards haven't been cut to final size, maybe
simply rip the board (glued up panel) through the defect and glue it up...
If it has been cut to final size you could make rips to remove the defect
plus a bit more and add another board. Doing either may be more straight
forward than "invisibly fixing" the defect knowing your son is going to be
looking for it!
John
On Friday, March 1, 2013 8:30:14 AM UTC-6, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> >"Gramp's shop" wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> >One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection.
>
> >It's a thin -- >maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's
> >about
>
> >1/16th of an inch deep. I >recall reading that some folks fill such
>
> >imperfections with CA glue. What's the >process? What impact does this
>
> >have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil->based finish)? Any
> >other
>
> >suggestions?
>
>
>
> Is this a "natural defect" or man made damage? If a natural defect such
> as
>
> a bark inclusion or split perhaps celebrating the defect by filling with a
>
> very dark brown, even black, tinted epoxy would be the way to go. It would
>
> end up looking like a smooth bark inclusion under the finish. Many of the
>
> high end turners and flat boarders I know use this technique to "fix"
>
> splits, loose knots, etc. and it looks quite natural.
>
>
>
> If a man made defect, such as a ragged dent or scratch, I'd try steaming
> it
>
> several times to see if the damage raises and then reassess the situation.
>
> It may revive enough that another round of sanding the entire surface
>
> removes the defect. I wouldn't spot sand as it could leave a depression...
>
>
>
> John
On Friday, March 1, 2013 12:02:49 AM UTC-6, Upscale wrote:
> I'd suggest using one of these to fill your scar. I have a set and frequently use one of them to fill indentations larger than your 1/16" scar. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20069&cat=1,190,42997
I picked up a set, plus some, of these wax sticks and other items, at a retired clock repairman's garage sale, for $2.
You can also use shellac or lacquer sticks, to fill those damages or imperfections. I've never used lacquer sticks, but have used shellac sticks, as I have a set, plus some, of these, also.
Sonny
John ...
Thanks for the reply. It is a rather modest natural defect. I think it add=
s a bit of interest to the piece, but my customer -- my son -- believes it =
is an imperfection that needs correction. I'm going to try to educate him =
on the vagaries of wood and the inherent beauty therein. This is hard rock=
maple, not laminate for heaven's sake!
Larry
On Friday, March 1, 2013 8:30:14 AM UTC-6, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> >"Gramp's shop" wrote in message=20
>=20
> >news:[email protected]...
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection.=
=20
>=20
> >It's a thin -- >maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's abo=
ut=20
>=20
> >1/16th of an inch deep. I >recall reading that some folks fill such=20
>=20
> >imperfections with CA glue. What's the >process? What impact does this=
=20
>=20
> >have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil->based finish)? Any ot=
her=20
>=20
> >suggestions?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Is this a "natural defect" or man made damage? If a natural defect such =
as=20
>=20
> a bark inclusion or split perhaps celebrating the defect by filling with =
a=20
>=20
> very dark brown, even black, tinted epoxy would be the way to go. It woul=
d=20
>=20
> end up looking like a smooth bark inclusion under the finish. Many of th=
e=20
>=20
> high end turners and flat boarders I know use this technique to "fix"=20
>=20
> splits, loose knots, etc. and it looks quite natural.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> If a man made defect, such as a ragged dent or scratch, I'd try steaming =
it=20
>=20
> several times to see if the damage raises and then reassess the situation=
.=20
>=20
> It may revive enough that another round of sanding the entire surface=20
>=20
> removes the defect. I wouldn't spot sand as it could leave a depression..=
.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> John
On Friday, March 1, 2013 11:13:40 AM UTC-8, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mar 1, 11:43=A0am, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote: > An=
other approach is to do what is called a "dutchman" patch or repair. Google=
it. It is a sort of inlay method. You use the same wood to make a filler p=
iece, cut a shallow mortise in a shape that follows grain lines and done we=
ll it ends up hiding well. Does take some talent. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D I'll say. a 1/16" X 1/16" 2" long dutchman wouldn't be for the inexperi=
enced. First, cutting the receiving side correctly. Then making the one of =
a kind filler that is 1/16" x 1/16" to fit.... Then gluing it in to fit wit=
h no glue lines or "glue seal" from wiping away excess glue when finished..=
.. Well beyond the skill set of anyone I know! Robert
I agree it is not the easiest solution. Nothing says it has to stay that sm=
all either. Just laying out all possibilities. Honestly, I fix as many smal=
l problems with a sharpie, drawing in some grain, coloring a chipped out sp=
ot of finish, as I do with a chisel.
I have fixed crack like imperfections by cleaning, widening or lengthening =
them with a knife\ravor as needed, then tapping in some slivers of the same=
wood and planing them down by hand.
On Mar 1, 11:43=A0am, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another approach is to do what is called a "dutchman" patch or repair. G=
oogle it. It is a sort of inlay method. You use the same wood to make a fil=
ler piece, cut a shallow mortise in a shape that follows grain lines and do=
ne well it ends up hiding well. Does take some talent.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
I'll say. a 1/16" X 1/16" 2" long dutchman wouldn't be for the
inexperienced. First, cutting the receiving side correctly. Then
making the one of a kind filler that is 1/16" x 1/16" to fit....
Then gluing it in to fit with no glue lines or "glue seal" from wiping
away excess glue when finished....
Well beyond the skill set of anyone I know!
Robert
On Fri, 1 Mar 2013 11:25:58 -0800 (PST), "Gramp's shop"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>John ...
>
>Thanks for the reply. It is a rather modest natural defect. I think it adds a bit of interest to the piece, but my customer -- my son -- believes it is an imperfection that needs correction. I'm going to try to educate him on the vagaries of wood and the inherent beauty therein. This is hard rock maple, not laminate for heaven's sake!
>
Hey, Larry! See if you can show him how to do some inlay (wood,
stone, or colored epoxy) which would make it a point of interest
instead, if you can't convince him otherwise.
--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
>"Gramp's shop" wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection.
>It's a thin -- >maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about
>1/16th of an inch deep. I >recall reading that some folks fill such
>imperfections with CA glue. What's the >process? What impact does this
>have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil->based finish)? Any other
>suggestions?
Is this a "natural defect" or man made damage? If a natural defect such as
a bark inclusion or split perhaps celebrating the defect by filling with a
very dark brown, even black, tinted epoxy would be the way to go. It would
end up looking like a smooth bark inclusion under the finish. Many of the
high end turners and flat boarders I know use this technique to "fix"
splits, loose knots, etc. and it looks quite natural.
If a man made defect, such as a ragged dent or scratch, I'd try steaming it
several times to see if the damage raises and then reassess the situation.
It may revive enough that another round of sanding the entire surface
removes the defect. I wouldn't spot sand as it could leave a depression...
John
Gramp's shop wrote:
> One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small
> imperfection. It's a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch
> jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch deep. I recall reading
> that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue. What's the
> process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use of a
> wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?
Can you turn the board over? If not, there are various ways to fill it. In
no particular order...
1. Wax as Dave mentioned. Use after finishing; you can get the color close
but probably not the sheen.
2. Stick shellac
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Finish/StickShellac/sticklac1.html
3. Sawdust and glue
a) cyanoacrylate: fill with sanding and/or sawdust, apply CA so it wicks
in, sand when dry (no odor up close), repeat as necessary. The filled area
will always be dark.
b) white glue: make a thick paste of sanding and saw dust mixed with
equal parts of glue and water, press in and over fill, let dry, sand. When
flush, wipe on a very thin coat of glue and sand immediately. Doing the
latter seems to stick a very thin layer on non-glue saturated sawdust that
will finish very close to the unblemished wood.
4. Anything that will set up; that includes things like plaster of Paris,
drywall compound, etc. You can add color before applying or after.
5. A Dutchman: route out the imperfection, glue in a new piece of wood to
fit.
Any of these should work OK with an oil finish.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 3/1/2013 1:02 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:37:58 -0800 (PST), "Gramp's shop"
>> One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection. It's a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue. What's the process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?
>
> I'd suggest using one of these to fill your scar. I have a set and
> frequently use one of them to fill indentations larger than your 1/16"
> scar.
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20069&cat=1,190,42997
>
I make lots of imperfections. Maybe I should just make the whole project
out of that stuff?
On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:37:58 -0800 (PST), "Gramp's shop"
>One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection. It's a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue. What's the process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?
I'd suggest using one of these to fill your scar. I have a set and
frequently use one of them to fill indentations larger than your 1/16"
scar.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20069&cat=1,190,42997