I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one is
mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide.
I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend the
drain valves started leaking air.
So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain in the
butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried to
remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so
boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than cutting
myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then tried to
drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2", and
the valve opening is somewhere in between.
So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
up again?
2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up
again?
I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but I'm
hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good
compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd like to
finish.
-Nathan
On Wed, 8 Apr 2009 00:54:05 +0100, Lee Michaels wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> I have seen these before and even used them a couple of times. But I have
> never heard them referred to as a nipple extractor. I instinctively moved
> my hands to a protective position over my chest when I read it. Looking at
> the link, I was relieved that it was referring to the pipe type of nipple,
> not the organic kind. Whew!!
How are you around ball paen hammers?
On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:52:06 +0100, B A R R Y wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> Leon wrote:
>>
>>
>> Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels.
>
>
> And bicycle wheels...
and aluminiminimum saucepan lids what SWMBO has lost her temper with.
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Glenn Lyford <[email protected]> writes:
>>> So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
>>> with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>>>
>>> 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
>>> up again?
>
> How about a nipple extractor?
>
> http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Pipe-Nipple-Extractors/655/List
>
========
I have seen these before and even used them a couple of times. But I have
never heard them referred to as a nipple extractor. I instinctively moved
my hands to a protective position over my chest when I read it. Looking at
the link, I was relieved that it was referring to the pipe type of nipple,
not the organic kind. Whew!!
On Apr 12, 12:52=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "nhurst" wrote:
> >Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for
>
> continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and
> get some use out of it?
>
> Not really.
>
> All you would accomplish is that it would take longer to come up to
> system pressure and as long as you consumed less than you generated,
> you could operate continuously.
>
> If you consume more than you generate, you will be able to operate
> longer before having to stop and wait to catch up, but you still have
> to wait.
>
> There ain't no free lunch.
>
> If it were mine, I'd plug it in, if it worked, great.
>
> If it doesn't, how fast can you get to the dumpster?
>
> Lew
Oh it works, I was just pondering what future use it might have in my
shop.
I realized last night that one good use for it might be to some of
those vacuum clamps. I bet it would work really well for that.
Otherwise, I'll stick it out at the project house on the old family
property so we don't have to lug the big one out there when we get a
round toit. :-)
-Nathan
On Apr 7, 3:07=A0pm, Glenn Lyford <[email protected]> wrote:
> > So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
> > with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>
> > 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
> > up again?
>
> I guessing the plug is a tapered pipe thread. =A0How much metal is left
> between the hole you drilled and the threads?
>
> Do you have a small triangular file that will fit in the hole well
> enough for you to cut a v-groove in several places? =A0Or maybe a mini
> hacksaw blade? =A0Or you could take a piece of a regular hacksaw blade
> and grind the back down until it fits in your hole. =A0 If you cut or
> file a pair of parallel grooves in the hole on one side (being careful
> not to go into the tank threads--they're closer to your drilled hole
> the deeper in you go), you may be able to use a cold chisel or an old
> screwdriver to pound a slice of the brass plug into the 3/8 hole.
> That will usually remove enough stress on the sides that you can turn
> it out. =A0You might need to collapse the rest in some after you remove
> a section. =A0At least brass cuts easily. =A0Even if you can't cut deep
> enough to get the plug to collapse, you might still be able to cut a
> notch on both sides of your hole deep enough to get a big screwdriver
> to jam in there, and then turn the screwdriver blade with a pair of
> vicegrips.
>
> > 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up agai=
n?
>
> Apply a good penetrating oil, like PB-Blaster, not WD40. =A0Let it soak
> in for a while. =A0If
> the threads are sealed with some sort of pipe compound, this probably
> won't make a lot of difference. =A0You could also try heating it up a
> little with a paint stripping gun, it might soften things up enough to
> release whatever putty or thread sealer they used.
>
> Take your dremel and cut off just the valve handle and stem, but not
> the rest of the valve. =A0You should now be able to get a good fitting
> socket on the rest of the valve and apply enough force to remove it
> (otherwise, the valve style limits you to using either an open end
> wrench or some form of pliers, which as you found will only mangle
> things).
>
> It will be worth your time to buy a six-point socket that size if you
> don't already have one--the brass will be soft enough that a 12-point
> socket could still mangle everything up on you. =A0None of this is
> guarateed to work, it just improves your odds.
>
> If you still end up having to drill things out, try using left-hand
> drill bits. =A0Harbor Freight has them. =A0That way, if the drill catches=
,
> it will at least be applying force in the direction you want it to go
> (though I think my set only goes up to 1/4").
>
> =A0 --Glenn Lyford
I have somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" of metal, I think, between the
new drain hole and the existing threads. I have a customer service
ticket in with Bostitch to see if they can inform me as to how those
things are attached. If I can get that information, and get the other
one off, I'll be able to use that to work on the mangled one.
Thank you for your excellent post.
As to the uh, nipple extractor, is there a recommended one for this
kind of thing? Is the screw in one better than the square one? Good
lord, I can only imagine the innuendo potential when you're talking
about pound in, screw in, and ridgid pipe extractors. Yeesh. :-)
Thanks yall.
-Nathan
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
> (crescent) wrench.
Actually a Crescent wrench does accomplish one task remarkably well,
absolutely not what it was intended for.
In the tire business you often see steel wheels with bent rims. I am
talking the part of the rim that the wheel weight clips on to. Hitting a
curb will often bend this part of the wheel/rim and it can easily be
straightened out if you adjust the wrench up snug on to the bend and then
simply bend the rim back out. Works like a charm.
Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels.
On Apr 9, 12:14=A0pm, Hammer Hands <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211
> @nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
>
>
>
> > "CW" wrote:
>
> >> Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
> >> (crescent) wrench.
>
> > Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster".
>
> > Lew
>
> My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches"
When I was a kid, my Grandad worked for "Crescent Tool" in Jamestown,
NY. We had at least 2 of every size cresacent wrench, including a
30"er. Of course, this was back when most things were srtill made farm
style with square head nuts & bolts.
Nahmie
On Apr 7, 8:59=A0am, N Hurst <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one is
> mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide.
>
> I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend the
> drain valves started leaking air.
>
> So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain in the
> butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried to
> remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so
> boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than cutting
> myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then tried to
> drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2", and
> the valve opening is somewhere in between.
>
> So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
> with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>
> 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
> up again?
> 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up
> again?
>
> I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but I'm
> hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good
> compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd like to
> finish.
>
> -Nathan
There is such a beast as an 'Easy-Out'. Look into that. They're
available in sets and as single items.
Glenn Lyford <[email protected]> writes:
>> So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
>> with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>>
>> 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
>> up again?
How about a nipple extractor?
http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Pipe-Nipple-Extractors/655/List
scott
On Apr 12, 12:02=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> nhurst wrote:
> >Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like
> >running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on
> >something as basic as running nail guns.
>
> Given the small size, you MIGHT be able to run a sprayer for model
> airplanes, otherwise, it's probably nail gun duty time.
>
> Lew
>
> Lew
Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for
continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and
get some use out of it?
-Nathan
Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
(crescent) wrench.
"Glenn Lyford" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a9c4328f-a109-4629-8e6c-79c6a279478b@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> I guessing the plug is a tapered pipe thread. How much metal is left
> between the hole you drilled and the threads?
>
> Do you have a small triangular file that will fit in the hole well
> enough for you to cut a v-groove in several places? Or maybe a mini
> hacksaw blade? Or you could take a piece of a regular hacksaw blade
> and grind the back down until it fits in your hole. If you cut or
> file a pair of parallel grooves in the hole on one side (being careful
> not to go into the tank threads--they're closer to your drilled hole
> the deeper in you go), you may be able to use a cold chisel or an old
> screwdriver to pound a slice of the brass plug into the 3/8 hole.
> That will usually remove enough stress on the sides that you can turn
> it out. You might need to collapse the rest in some after you remove
> a section. At least brass cuts easily. Even if you can't cut deep
> enough to get the plug to collapse, you might still be able to cut a
> notch on both sides of your hole deep enough to get a big screwdriver
> to jam in there, and then turn the screwdriver blade with a pair of
> vicegrips.
>
>> 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again?
>
> Apply a good penetrating oil, like PB-Blaster, not WD40. Let it soak
> in for a while. If
> the threads are sealed with some sort of pipe compound, this probably
> won't make a lot of difference. You could also try heating it up a
> little with a paint stripping gun, it might soften things up enough to
> release whatever putty or thread sealer they used.
>
> Take your dremel and cut off just the valve handle and stem, but not
> the rest of the valve. You should now be able to get a good fitting
> socket on the rest of the valve and apply enough force to remove it
> (otherwise, the valve style limits you to using either an open end
> wrench or some form of pliers, which as you found will only mangle
> things).
>
> It will be worth your time to buy a six-point socket that size if you
> don't already have one--the brass will be soft enough that a 12-point
> socket could still mangle everything up on you. None of this is
> guarateed to work, it just improves your odds.
>
> If you still end up having to drill things out, try using left-hand
> drill bits. Harbor Freight has them. That way, if the drill catches,
> it will at least be applying force in the direction you want it to go
> (though I think my set only goes up to 1/4").
>
> --Glenn Lyford
You've made this pretty difficult. If you don't have a drill
index, I'm sure you don't have easy outs and taps. I suspect that
you wouldn't know how to use them if you did (not a pick, just an
observation based on your statements) and breaking them off would
only make the problem worse.
Your best bet would be to find a tool repair shop or machine shop.
No idea what they would charge. The best choice would be to go to
an outfit that works on compressors, they will be prepared to deal
with the issues and the new parts.
If you insist on trying:
Buy a full drill index.
Buy an assortment of easy outs - I prefer the square ones.
Buy the correct tap, but be prepared to need to drill out for the
next size and the next larger tap.
Try the easy out first. Tap it in firmly. Try to unscrew the
broken nipple. There are nipple extractors, but I've not ever had
much luck with them. If you succeed at this point, you're done
other than buying and installing a ball valve or whatever you
choose.
If it doesn't work (when it doesn't work), drill out the nipple
but do not hurt the threads. There will be the old threads
themselves hung in the hole that will require cleaning up the
threads with the correct tap. Make sure to be VERY careful with
the tap, they are very brittle and if you break it off in the hole
it is much to hard to drill.
Good luck.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:dafdd327-bb2c-4c87-a01a-0af722e985bf@z15g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one
>is
> mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide.
>
> I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend
> the
> drain valves started leaking air.
>
> So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain
> in the
> butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried
> to
> remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so
> boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than
> cutting
> myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then
> tried to
> drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2",
> and
> the valve opening is somewhere in between.
>
> So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged
> hole
> with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>
> 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve
> plugged
> up again?
> 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing
> up
> again?
>
> I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but
> I'm
> hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good
> compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd
> like to
> finish.
>
> -Nathan
Hammer Hands wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211
> @nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
>
>> "CW" wrote:
>>
>>> Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
>>> (crescent) wrench.
>> Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster".
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
> My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches"
My dad called them "metric crescent wrenches".
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>
>>
>> Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels.
>
>
> And bicycle wheels...
There you go!
>When I was a kid, my Grandad worked for "Crescent Tool" in Jamestown,
>NY. We had at least 2 of every size cresacent wrench, including a
>30"er. Of course, this was back when most things were srtill made
>farm
>style with square head nuts & bolts.
SFWIW, Along the way I aquired a 10" Cresent wrench that is built
"hell for stout" as the old German used to say.
It must weigh at least twice what the current versions weigh.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211
@nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
>
> "CW" wrote:
>
>> Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
>> (crescent) wrench.
>
> Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster".
>
> Lew
>
>
My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches"
> So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
> with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>
> 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
> up again?
I guessing the plug is a tapered pipe thread. How much metal is left
between the hole you drilled and the threads?
Do you have a small triangular file that will fit in the hole well
enough for you to cut a v-groove in several places? Or maybe a mini
hacksaw blade? Or you could take a piece of a regular hacksaw blade
and grind the back down until it fits in your hole. If you cut or
file a pair of parallel grooves in the hole on one side (being careful
not to go into the tank threads--they're closer to your drilled hole
the deeper in you go), you may be able to use a cold chisel or an old
screwdriver to pound a slice of the brass plug into the 3/8 hole.
That will usually remove enough stress on the sides that you can turn
it out. You might need to collapse the rest in some after you remove
a section. At least brass cuts easily. Even if you can't cut deep
enough to get the plug to collapse, you might still be able to cut a
notch on both sides of your hole deep enough to get a big screwdriver
to jam in there, and then turn the screwdriver blade with a pair of
vicegrips.
> 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again?
Apply a good penetrating oil, like PB-Blaster, not WD40. Let it soak
in for a while. If
the threads are sealed with some sort of pipe compound, this probably
won't make a lot of difference. You could also try heating it up a
little with a paint stripping gun, it might soften things up enough to
release whatever putty or thread sealer they used.
Take your dremel and cut off just the valve handle and stem, but not
the rest of the valve. You should now be able to get a good fitting
socket on the rest of the valve and apply enough force to remove it
(otherwise, the valve style limits you to using either an open end
wrench or some form of pliers, which as you found will only mangle
things).
It will be worth your time to buy a six-point socket that size if you
don't already have one--the brass will be soft enough that a 12-point
socket could still mangle everything up on you. None of this is
guarateed to work, it just improves your odds.
If you still end up having to drill things out, try using left-hand
drill bits. Harbor Freight has them. That way, if the drill catches,
it will at least be applying force in the direction you want it to go
(though I think my set only goes up to 1/4").
--Glenn Lyford
On Thu, 9 Apr 2009 19:26:37 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>When I was a kid, my Grandad worked for "Crescent Tool" in Jamestown,
>NY. We had at least 2 of every size cresacent wrench, including a
>30"er. Of course, this was back when most things were srtill made farm
>style with square head nuts & bolts.
Wow, another coincicdence. My aunt worked for them, too.
I think I might have mentioned her and my uncle once. They lived in
Busti. He was some kind of foundryman at Ellison Bronze in Falconer.
I wonder if you granddad might have known my aunt, even though it
sounds like there might have been an age gap--one generation
difference. I have no idea how many employees they had. Might have
been a big place.
We don't hear from you much. How's life on the road?
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
On Apr 10, 8:05=A0pm, "PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Bored Borg" <[email protected]> wrote in messagenews:000=
[email protected]...
> > On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:52:06 +0100, B A R R Y wrote
> > (in article <[email protected]>):
>
> > > Leon wrote:
>
> > >> Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels.
>
> > > And bicycle wheels...
>
> > and aluminiminimum saucepan lids what SWMBO has lost her temper with.
>
> How's your head?? =A0BG
> P D Q
No progress to speak of with regards to the busted compressor. I got
one of the screw-in type extractors, but haven't had the time to try
it out yet.
I'm writing in though to post a little bit of a gloat! I was at a
local pharmacy to get a drink where I noticed a small air compressor
looking like it might be in the queue for the dumpster, laying on its
side behind the counter.
I asked about it, and they said that it was broken and they had
replaced it, but that they hadn't gotten directions from above about
what to do with the old one. I told them that I had room in my car for
it, if they wanted to avoid the task of carrying it to the dumpster.
They took my number and asked me to wait for a call or come back
later, so they could have a chance to talk to their management.
So I went back on Friday and came home with a Gast D300X air
compressor. It was built in 1999, but hey, I'm not complaining.
Information here:
http://www.gastmfg.com/pdf/tankunits/2Gallon-tanksyst.pdf
I can't find any vendors that sell this model online, but Grainger has
just the compressor part for over $400, so I think I did OK. :-)
Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like
running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on
something as basic as running nail guns.
-Nathan
"Bored Borg" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:52:06 +0100, B A R R Y wrote
> (in article <[email protected]>):
>=20
> > Leon wrote:
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >> Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels.=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > And bicycle wheels...
>=20
> and aluminiminimum saucepan lids what SWMBO has lost her temper with.
>=20
How's your head?? BG
P D Q
Tom Veatch wrote:
> On Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:26:01 -0700 (PDT), nhurst <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like
>> running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on
>> something as basic as running nail guns.
>
>
> With a 2gal tank and 1.5 CFM or less at 30 to 50 psi, I'm afraid you'd
> have a pretty low duty cycle running a conventional spray gun. Maybe
> OK for small batch spraying.
Sounds about perfect for an airbrush though.
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Glenn Lyford <[email protected]> writes:
>>> So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
>>> with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>>>
>>> 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
>>> up again?
>
> How about a nipple extractor?
>
> http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Pipe-Nipple-Extractors/655/List
>
> scott
Nipple extractor??
Just unhook her bra.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Max
If I understand correctly there is a BRASS remnant of your
drain valve you want to remove? If it is brass, you might
take the unit to a welding shop and just have them melt the
brass out of the threads, which I assume are probably steel
or a welded on steel insert. Even if the insert was brazed
on the tank, just have the welding shop braze it back on
after melting the drain valve. regards, Joe.
On Tue, 7 Apr 2009 05:59:35 -0700 (PDT), N Hurst
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one is
>mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide.
>
>I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend the
>drain valves started leaking air.
>
>So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain in the
>butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried to
>remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so
>boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than cutting
>myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then tried to
>drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2", and
>the valve opening is somewhere in between.
>
>So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
>with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it.
>
>1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged
>up again?
>2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up
>again?
>
>I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but I'm
>hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good
>compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd like to
>finish.
>
>-Nathan
nhurst wrote:
>Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like
>running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on
>something as basic as running nail guns.
Given the small size, you MIGHT be able to run a sprayer for model
airplanes, otherwise, it's probably nail gun duty time.
Lew
Lew
"nhurst" wrote:
>Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for
continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and
get some use out of it?
Not really.
All you would accomplish is that it would take longer to come up to
system pressure and as long as you consumed less than you generated,
you could operate continuously.
If you consume more than you generate, you will be able to operate
longer before having to stop and wait to catch up, but you still have
to wait.
There ain't no free lunch.
If it were mine, I'd plug it in, if it worked, great.
If it doesn't, how fast can you get to the dumpster?
Lew
On Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:26:01 -0700 (PDT), nhurst <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like
>running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on
>something as basic as running nail guns.
With a 2gal tank and 1.5 CFM or less at 30 to 50 psi, I'm afraid you'd
have a pretty low duty cycle running a conventional spray gun. Maybe
OK for small batch spraying.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:GPqDl.12574$%[email protected]...
> Hammer Hands wrote:
>> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211
>> @nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
>>
>>> "CW" wrote:
>>>
>>>> Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
>>>> (crescent) wrench.
>>> Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster".
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>>>
>> My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches"
>
> My dad called them "metric crescent wrenches".
>
> --
roundoff wrenches ha ha
> Free bad advice available here.
> To reply, eat the taco.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/