Never parted with a tool because of voltage. Transformers are so cheap.
Used all my USA tools in West Germany and brought the West German
tools back to the USA. Get a transformer.
bob g.
mare wrote:
> SawDust <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Sam,
>>
>>
>>I thought of using the router for shelve pins. But trying to keep
>>that router exactly in place without some form of jig when your trying
>>to do the plunge, if you have a fairly stiff spring, it won't be easy
>>to do. Some would say it's impossible.
>
>
> I recently had to drill a lot of holes for Euro style shelf supports.
> Around 10,000 of them. I thought about buying a Festool guide rail jig,
> but finally went for a Veritas jig from Lee Valley.
>
> I had blisters on my thumb after I finished and the motion of moving the
> drill bit in and out the holes was really tiring. A really good way to
> get RSI.
>
> So I might buy the Festool jig if I ever have to make a lot of holes
> again.
>
> Speaking of Festool, I received my Festool plunge cut circular saw today
> and although it's probably the most expensive handsaw on the market it
> works so nice. I used to have one when I lived in Europe (a lot of
> professionals use Festool in Europe, although it's not that known in
> North America yet) but I had to sell it when I came to Canada because of
> the voltage difference. It is really a big difference compared to
> DeWalts and the like. It's also twice the price...
>
> <http://www.festool-usa.com/portando/images/PDF/catalog/FESTOOL_Cat04_pg
> 022-027.pdf>
>
Sam,
I thought of using the router for shelve pins. But trying to keep
that router exactly in place without some form of jig when your trying
to do the plunge, if you have a fairly stiff spring, it won't be easy
to do. Some would say it's impossible.
I concluded I was better off buying an inexpensive drill press. A
house brand table top model is $100 CDN on sale here. It's less
expensive that having to replace whatever your working on.
Pat
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
>brand new router as it's plunge?
>
>Ta
SawDust <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sam,
>
>
> I thought of using the router for shelve pins. But trying to keep
> that router exactly in place without some form of jig when your trying
> to do the plunge, if you have a fairly stiff spring, it won't be easy
> to do. Some would say it's impossible.
I recently had to drill a lot of holes for Euro style shelf supports.
Around 10,000 of them. I thought about buying a Festool guide rail jig,
but finally went for a Veritas jig from Lee Valley.
I had blisters on my thumb after I finished and the motion of moving the
drill bit in and out the holes was really tiring. A really good way to
get RSI.
So I might buy the Festool jig if I ever have to make a lot of holes
again.
Speaking of Festool, I received my Festool plunge cut circular saw today
and although it's probably the most expensive handsaw on the market it
works so nice. I used to have one when I lived in Europe (a lot of
professionals use Festool in Europe, although it's not that known in
North America yet) but I had to sell it when I came to Canada because of
the voltage difference. It is really a big difference compared to
DeWalts and the like. It's also twice the price...
<http://www.festool-usa.com/portando/images/PDF/catalog/FESTOOL_Cat04_pg
022-027.pdf>
--
mare
Robert Galloway <[email protected]> wrote:
> Never parted with a tool because of voltage. Transformers are so cheap.
> Used all my USA tools in West Germany and brought the West German
> tools back to the USA. Get a transformer.
The worst thing is that I found that I have 220 volt in my house since
it is used for the stove. Nobody tells you these things. But this saw is
mainly for use elsewhere and I don't want to lug a transformer with me.
I was also told that using transformers for motors is not a good idea.
--
mare
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 16:27:55 -0700, [email protected] vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Surely there is no way this is a _cheap_ way to drill holes thoogh?
>>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
>>brand new router as it's plunge?
>>
>>Ta
>
>
>of course you can. plunge routers can make very nice holes.
>
>that is assuming you don't need holes deeper than the plunge depth of
>the router.
>
>with some jigging up the plunge router is quite serviceable for making
>a bunch of holes all the same, like for the shelf support pegs for
>adjustable shelving.
"Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Cheers Andy,
>
> I already have a cheap drill from Argos, and I also have some bits, my Dad
> has a countersink, so it looks like i'm ready.. the only point it that in
> my
> post, I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still
> enough?
----------------
You can use one of these things...:
http://www.wolfcraft.de/en/produkte/products/master2b17.html?countryID=EU&languageID=en&wo=EU&dataLang=en&pub=&cat=catalogue&prdGrpID=0602
I got mine from Screwfix (site unavailable at the moment so no link I'm
afraid). Expect to pay around £26 for it. Note: It ONLY fits drills with a
43mm collar (most corded drills and no cordless drill that I've ever come
across).
It's mucho handy.
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
>girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
>
>www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link
>or pic, both are hot.
Very nice! Say, what kind of stain did you use to get the cherry to
look like jarrah?
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>Thanks for the "Very nice!" comment, though. I added that triple
>sprung tether cord to the underside of the top so it holds itself
>in place in the most vertical position. It's more stable now.
You're welcome. Thanks for posting the pics. Do let us know how it
works out in practice. I was carving some ball-and-claw feet over the
weekend on a workmate and my back is killing me.
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 19:13:35 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
calmly ranted:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
>>girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
>>
>>www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link
>>or pic, both are hot.
>
>Very nice! Say, what kind of stain did you use to get the cherry to
>look like jarrah?
Careful, Ken. I might just tell Shrubby that you've got nukes.
Thanks for the "Very nice!" comment, though. I added that triple
sprung tether cord to the underside of the top so it holds itself
in place in the most vertical position. It's more stable now.
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 21:37:58 -0700, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
>>brand new router as it's plunge?
>>
>>Ta
>
> That's how I drilled the dog holes in my workbench. It's much easier to
>get perfectly vertical holes that way.
I used my humongous and expansive $40 HF drill press and an LVT
forstner in the jarrah benchtop.
Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link
or pic, both are hot.
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:41:10 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
><snip>
>>>I was enough of a
>>>smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions,
>>>when working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks
>>>lined up, marching to John Phillip Souza...
>>
>> Souza, eh? Too bad. I'd have preferred Glen Miller's Big Band. ;)
>
>As in 'be kind to your web-footed friends, for a duck may be somebody's
>mother...'
>
>Enjoy your feast, even if it is nuts and berries, for we have much for
>which to be grateful.
13 lb turkey (neighbor and I went shopping together, got free bird)
Homemade giblet gravy (neighbor cookes/will make)
Mrs. Cubbison's packaged stuffing in the turkey
2 lbs homemade sugarless cranberry sauce (I made that)
French sourdough baguette garlic bread (I bought the bread/will make)
lettuce, fresh mushrooms, canned olives, canned asparagus in salad
sweet potatoes (also sugar-free, her dad is diabetic)
sugar free Cheesecake (neighbor will make that)
I think I do OK as a single (hermit) person and I'll survive.
<burp>
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:17:52 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 21:37:58 -0700, Mark & Juanita
><[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>
>>On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
>>>brand new router as it's plunge?
>>>
>>>Ta
>>
>> That's how I drilled the dog holes in my workbench. It's much easier to
>>get perfectly vertical holes that way.
>
>I used my humongous and expansive $40 HF drill press and an LVT
>forstner in the jarrah benchtop.
>
Would have been a bit unwieldy since I got my bench tops pre-assembled
and at 30" x 60", would have been quite a feat to run them across the DP.
>Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
>girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
>
Congrats, how's the bow saw coming?
>www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link
>or pic, both are hot.
>
>
> -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:29:21 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>> Uh, since they come 4 sticks to a box, that'd be 75% full, right?
>> ;)
>
>When you buy the last box in the store, you MAY find that there is ONE,
>rather irregular, somewhat misshapen lump in the box, with paper wedged in
>various parts. But it's wax. I used the finest hardware store house brand
>carpenter's chisel in my toolbox, and dislodged a chunk. The rest may get
>applied to snowboards, eventually.
Yeah, I did that to mine on a fine 105F day in Vista, CA, too.
>The paraffin is one of those things I learned from previous generations.
>They just did it that way, and they did good work.
I prefer the oil or a coat of paste wax. Enjoy your canning. ;)
My teacher (Jim Kingshott video) is an old-schooler, too.
>I was enough of a
>smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions, when
>working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks lined up,
>marching to John Phillip Souza...
Souza, eh? Too bad. I'd have preferred Glen Miller's Big Band. ;)
Your "learned to budget" phrase reminds me of a passage in "The
Farthest Shore". (I'm reading Ursula LeGuin's novels right now, the
Earthsea books, before the movie comes out in a couple weeks. She's
no Larry Niven but her books are good, and quite enjoyable.)
"In Enlad," said Arren after a while, "we have a story about the boy
whose schoolmaster was a stone."
"Aye? ... What did he learn?" asked Sparrowhawk.
"Not to ask questions."
>> -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
>
>I guess it's ham for the designated drivers, then. Enjoy your feasting,
>friends and family, as appropriate.
I haven't eaten ham since my sister's ASU college biology class did
their investigation in '72. They opened PRECOOKED canned ham and put
thin slices under the microscope to find many lifing/moving lifeforms.
That was enough for both of us to give up ham for good. Then again,
I'll nuke the holy crap out of a slice of bacon once every year or
three.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:03:03 +0000, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:20:19 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still
>>enough?
>
>Practice, and gluing a spirit level to the drill body can help. You
>can buy little plastic spirit level bubbles for this, but it's nearly
>as much trouble to stick them on accurately.
Just a note on the level on the drill thing - you need to make sure
that your workpiece is level before you start. DAMHIKT
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
Cheers Andy,
I already have a cheap drill from Argos, and I also have some bits, my Dad
has a countersink, so it looks like i'm ready.. the only point it that in my
post, I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still
enough?
Sam
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole,
>
> No. Holes come in a range of diameters. A set of drill bits and a
> drill to use them are much cheaper than even a couple of router bits.
> Although it's deeply unfashionable these days, a hand drill or a brace
> is still a cheap and _very_controllable_ way to turn drill bits. A
> cheap cordless drill with trigger-controlled speed isn't expensive
> either .
>
> Take your 40 quid "table saw fund" into B&Q and spend it on an
> own-brand "Performance Power" single-speed drill (no gearbox, no
> hammer, adjustable speed trigger), a box of drills up to 13mm (black
> in real HSS are better than gold) and a countersink bit.
>
> Router bits won't drill either. Some will, but most have a "dead
> spot" in the centre where the flutes don't overlap. If you're moving
> them sideways this doesn't matter, but it stops them making round
> holes. It also helps to use spiral fluted router bits to clear chips,
> and these are really expensive.
>
> You _can_ drill with a router, but it's an unpleasant job. They're
> just too fast - even when adjusted to their slowest speed. You're also
> using a cutter that wants nothing more than to cut sideways - this
> doesn't encourage accurate holes.
> --
> Smert' spamionam
I made a jig from 1/2 inch aluminum stock to plunge rout adjustable shelf
holes holes with a plunge router, a template guide and a 1/4 inch spiral up
bit. I took a 4 foot piece of stock and laid out the holes on 1 1/4 inch
centers. I drilled the holes 1/2 inch on the drill press. I then installed
edge stops and a bottom tailpiece to index the start of the holes from the
bottom edge of the board. I clamp the jig on to the wood and pluge rout the
hole in whatever spacing I wanted. It is actually very quick. A 33 inch high
cabinet can be done in under 5 minutes with very clean holes.
max
> Hi,
>
> I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
> brand new router as it's plunge?
>
> Ta
If you are working on larger panels it is easier to leave the panel on the
bench and move the router. This jig also assures that every hole is spaced
properly so that the shelves don't wobble. You can also use the jig to drill
holes in a cabinet already assembled.
> max <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I made a jig from 1/2 inch aluminum stock to plunge rout adjustable
>> shelf holes holes with a plunge router, a template guide and a 1/4
>> inch spiral up bit. I took a 4 foot piece of stock and laid out the
>> holes on 1 1/4 inch centers. I drilled the holes 1/2 inch on the drill
>> press. I then installed edge stops and a bottom tailpiece to index the
>> start of the holes from the bottom edge of the board. I clamp the jig
>> on to the wood and pluge rout the hole in whatever spacing I wanted.
>> It is actually very quick. A 33 inch high cabinet can be done in under
>> 5 minutes with very clean holes. max
>
> Why don't you just use the drill press?
>
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I
>>> use my brand new router as it's plunge?
>>>
>>> Ta
>>
>>
>
max <[email protected]> wrote:
> If you are working on larger panels it is easier to leave the panel on
> the bench and move the router. This jig also assures that every hole
> is spaced properly so that the shelves don't wobble. You can also use
> the jig to drill holes in a cabinet already assembled.
>
>
Good point!
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com>
calmly ranted:
> Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
> girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
>
Mine took a morning +/- and it looks it.. Posted here a while backs. Not
as nice as yours but I just don't have the space for another table so mine
sits on the table saw extension. I use those Veritas dog hole screws
too....they're good. Do you have any plans on increasing the mass of the
top so when you whomp the tool with your mallet the carving doesn't bounce?
I'm thinking of adding a shelf under the table top and putting some of those
sand bags on it... Post your carving(non-turkey) pix when you get there.
Larry
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
Apricot oil?
Patriarch
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>>Apricot oil?
>
> A sample of massage oil. I was going to order several gallons
> of it for my masseuse (from LoCal) as a barter product but she
> didn't go for it. It doesn't go rancid. I couldn't
> find the sample of walnut oil at the time and it sounded
> like it'd smell nice, so it got used.
So does it smell nice?
Are there other properties it's supposed to have?
> The Camellia oil was
> way too expensive for use there. Which reminds me that I
> haven't made a wick holder for it yet so I can oil my plane
> soles.
Chunk 'o canning wax has lasted for three years so far, and the box is
still maybe 80% full.
Patriarch
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>>Chunk 'o canning wax has lasted for three years so far, and the box is
>>still maybe 80% full.
>
> Uh, since they come 4 sticks to a box, that'd be 75% full, right?
> ;)
When you buy the last box in the store, you MAY find that there is ONE,
rather irregular, somewhat misshapen lump in the box, with paper wedged in
various parts. But it's wax. I used the finest hardware store house brand
carpenter's chisel in my toolbox, and dislodged a chunk. The rest may get
applied to snowboards, eventually.
> I've tried paraffin but didn't like it. Extra pieces went all
> over the place. I do like Johnson's wax on the soles, though. I
> wax all my planes during tuneup sessions. Some lasted over a year
> without any rust at all showing up, so I need to change frequencies.
>
> Now that I'm back in the shop again, that shouldn't be a problem.
The paraffin is one of those things I learned from previous generations.
They just did it that way, and they did good work. I was enough of a
smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions, when
working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks lined up,
marching to John Phillip Souza...
>
> -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
>
I guess it's ham for the designated drivers, then. Enjoy your feasting,
friends and family, as appropriate.
Patriarch
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>>I was enough of a
>>smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions,
>>when working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks
>>lined up, marching to John Phillip Souza...
>
> Souza, eh? Too bad. I'd have preferred Glen Miller's Big Band. ;)
As in 'be kind to your web-footed friends, for a duck may be somebody's
mother...'
Enjoy your feast, even if it is nuts and berries, for we have much for
which to be grateful.
Patriarch
On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 05:27:24 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>>Apricot oil?
>So does it smell nice?
>
>Are there other properties it's supposed to have?
Yeah, it has a light fragrance to it. And if you can talk
someone into putting it on your neck and shoulders, it has
both erotic and soothing/relaxing properties.
Hey, there's a thought for my new shop moniker:
The Erotic Woodworker.
>Chunk 'o canning wax has lasted for three years so far, and the box is
>still maybe 80% full.
Uh, since they come 4 sticks to a box, that'd be 75% full, right?
;) I've tried paraffin but didn't like it. Extra pieces went all
over the place. I do like Johnson's wax on the soles, though. I
wax all my planes during tuneup sessions. Some lasted over a year
without any rust at all showing up, so I need to change frequencies.
Now that I'm back in the shop again, that shouldn't be a problem.
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 16:15:27 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:58:08 GMT, patriarch
><<patriarch>[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>
>>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>Apricot oil?
>
>A sample of massage oil. I was going to order several gallons
>of it for my masseuse (from LoCal) as a barter product but she
>didn't go for it. It doesn't go rancid. I couldn't
>find the sample of walnut oil at the time and it sounded
>like it'd smell nice, so it got used. The Camellia oil was
>way too expensive for use there. Which reminds me that I
>haven't made a wick holder for it yet so I can oil my plane
>soles.
>
>
???? Probably just teflon memory syndrome, I don't recall having read
anything about oiling plane soles. Do you have a link to a picture of such
a wick holder?
> -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
Yes. Use a spiral-cutting bit to remove the chips while boring. The
downside: the variety of sizes of spiral-cutting router bits is limited
compared to drill bit sizes.
Of course, the depth of the hole will be only equal to the travel of your
router's plunge mechanism so you won't be drilling any through holes in
thick material.
"Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use
my
> brand new router as it's plunge?
>
> Ta
>
> --
> Cheers,
>
> Sam
>
>
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 18:36:38 GMT, "Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com>
> calmly ranted:
>> Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
>> girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
>>
>
>Mine took a morning +/- and it looks it.. Posted here a while backs. Not
>as nice as yours but I just don't have the space for another table so mine
>sits on the table saw extension. I use those Veritas dog hole screws
>too....they're good. Do you have any plans on increasing the mass of the
>top so when you whomp the tool with your mallet the carving doesn't bounce?
No, just to the base shelf, unless practice indicates otherwise. And I
haven't found my sheets of 1/16" rubber yet, but will put a couple
thicknesses between the top and legs for the heavier downpounding
cuts. I have one of those wonderful ShopFox urethane mallets which
takes a lot of the bounce out and saves my wrists. The difference
between those and wooden mallets is definitely night and day.
>Post your carving(non-turkey) pix when you get there.
Will do. First up is a Mt. Fuji-esque picture similar to the
one in Greene & Greene's Culbertson house, probably from my
shot of our local Fuji, Mt. Laughlin. Something like this:
http://www.istockphoto.com/file_closeup.php?id=200685
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
>brand new router as it's plunge?
>
>Ta
of course you can. plunge routers can make very nice holes.
that is assuming you don't need holes deeper than the plunge depth of
the router.
with some jigging up the plunge router is quite serviceable for making
a bunch of holes all the same, like for the shelf support pegs for
adjustable shelving.
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 23:54:41 -0700, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
> Would have been a bit unwieldy since I got my bench tops pre-assembled
>and at 30" x 60", would have been quite a feat to run them across the DP.
Especially if it had the deep throat (4") mine has.
>>Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and
>>girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning.
>>
>
> Congrats, how's the bow saw coming?
What you see is what you get. www.diversify.com/wood/index.html
I imagine that if I finished that bow saur, -many- of you would
have heart attacks. I wouldn't want that...or would I? ;)
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:20:19 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Cheers Andy,
>
>I already have a cheap drill from Argos, and I also have some bits, my Dad
>has a countersink, so it looks like i'm ready.. the only point it that in my
>post, I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still
>enough?
If you don't have a drill press, the second best thing is a combo of a
drill guide and a brad point bit.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000E6TM6/104-1743209-5346310?v=glance
This one's adjustable for angle. Mine isn't and was only $20 (almost
20 years ago. ;)
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:58:08 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>Apricot oil?
A sample of massage oil. I was going to order several gallons
of it for my masseuse (from LoCal) as a barter product but she
didn't go for it. It doesn't go rancid. I couldn't
find the sample of walnut oil at the time and it sounded
like it'd smell nice, so it got used. The Camellia oil was
way too expensive for use there. Which reminds me that I
haven't made a wick holder for it yet so I can oil my plane
soles.
-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --
max <[email protected]> wrote:
> I made a jig from 1/2 inch aluminum stock to plunge rout adjustable
> shelf holes holes with a plunge router, a template guide and a 1/4
> inch spiral up bit. I took a 4 foot piece of stock and laid out the
> holes on 1 1/4 inch centers. I drilled the holes 1/2 inch on the drill
> press. I then installed edge stops and a bottom tailpiece to index the
> start of the holes from the bottom edge of the board. I clamp the jig
> on to the wood and pluge rout the hole in whatever spacing I wanted.
> It is actually very quick. A 33 inch high cabinet can be done in under
> 5 minutes with very clean holes. max
Why don't you just use the drill press?
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I
>> use my brand new router as it's plunge?
>>
>> Ta
>
>
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole,
No. Holes come in a range of diameters. A set of drill bits and a
drill to use them are much cheaper than even a couple of router bits.
Although it's deeply unfashionable these days, a hand drill or a brace
is still a cheap and _very_controllable_ way to turn drill bits. A
cheap cordless drill with trigger-controlled speed isn't expensive
either .
Take your 40 quid "table saw fund" into B&Q and spend it on an
own-brand "Performance Power" single-speed drill (no gearbox, no
hammer, adjustable speed trigger), a box of drills up to 13mm (black
in real HSS are better than gold) and a countersink bit.
Router bits won't drill either. Some will, but most have a "dead
spot" in the centre where the flutes don't overlap. If you're moving
them sideways this doesn't matter, but it stops them making round
holes. It also helps to use spiral fluted router bits to clear chips,
and these are really expensive.
You _can_ drill with a router, but it's an unpleasant job. They're
just too fast - even when adjusted to their slowest speed. You're also
using a cutter that wants nothing more than to cut sideways - this
doesn't encourage accurate holes.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:20:19 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still
>enough?
Practice, and gluing a spirit level to the drill body can help. You
can buy little plastic spirit level bubbles for this, but it's nearly
as much trouble to stick them on accurately.
If you really needed to drill accurately square holes in the middle of
a panel (so you can't use a drill press), then the router base might
be useful (so long as you can get the speed down). Mainly though
you just don't care - hole drilling rarely needs super-accuracy.
I made a couple of folding plywood stools yesterday, where the hinge
pins are 5mm steel rod in drilled holes through 3/4" ply. All just
hand-drilled holes held square by eye, yet the folding is free enough
that they must have been reasonably accurate.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my
>brand new router as it's plunge?
>
>Ta
That's how I drilled the dog holes in my workbench. It's much easier to
get perfectly vertical holes that way.