I got a 10", compound, non-slider, miter saw from HF awhile back.
Works well, except it did need just a touch of tuning to get a true 90
degree cut. The cut isn't wide enough, but I'd already figured out that
if I raised the deck (table?) if it enough, it would cut close to the
width of the blade. Well, as it turns out, I won't be using it to cut
wider than 6" - so as it's setup now, the cut is 6 9/16". Perfect.
Basically, what I did was take a 36" strip of 1/4" plywood, about
3" wide, fronted by a strip of 1/2" plywood, about 4" shourter, and
maybe 1/2" narrower. I marked the line I wanted bolts on the 1/3" ply,
clamped both on the upright/back of the deck, used a 1/16" drill to make
a pilot hold thru both pieces of ply, and the aluminum back. Removed
the 1/2" ply, reclamped the 1/4", and proceded to drill slightly larger
holes, ending with the final size holes, that'll just accept a T-nut.
Used a circle cutter to make a cut just larger than the rear of the
T-nut in the 1/2" ply, poppd out a layer of veneer to accept the back of
the T-nut, and drilled a 1/4{" hole all the way thru, to accept any
extra length of bolt, if I had to go with a 1" bolt. Then put a T-nut
in the ply, and found out that the 3/4" bolts I got only screwed into
the T-nuts just over 1/8" and bound, turning the T-nut in the ply. Hmm.
So, some glue around the T-nuts, glue the two pieces of ply together,
seemed to do it. The T-nuts protruded from the 1/4" ply into the
aluminum back perfectly, not quite all the way thru. But, to avoid
putting excessive pressure on the T-nuts, when the bolts were tightened,
would need spacers. Wound up with 3/4" bolts by the way. Wound up
trimming down a bit of oak flooring, drilling it, and used as spacers.
I proably only ned 5-10 lbs of pressure anyway, just enough to keep the
T-nuts from backing out. Lovely.
The pieces in front, to raise the deck are: On the left, took four
chunks of 2X4, about a foot long, glued them wide side to wide side in
pairs, then glued them edge to edge, and planed them a bit to get them
nicely flat. I believe they wound up about 2 1/2" tall. The 1/2" ply
is the same height. On the right side used just three pieces of 2X4,
about 8 inches long, and made a custome, one-time use, planer sled, to
plane that at an angle. The theory was that the cut pieces (which will
be a max of 12" long) will slide down out of the way. That's was the
theory, the practice is that it works exactly that way. Hehehe
Then glued them to the back, and to each other. Once that glue
set, tested. The 1/2" ply is partially so a stop block can rest on it
on the right side - the planed angle alone would make that difficult.
Set a piece of 1/2" ply on the stop support, clamped it in place, and
cut a piece. Worked like a charm. The cut was right on, and the cut
piece slid down, and on to the floor. Had expected it to just drop off
and on to the surface the saw was sitting on. Nope, had enough momentum
to go right on and on the floor.
Recall that the 1/X" stop block support on the back is a bit lower
than the 1/4" ply - this is so the 1/4" ply can be the support for the
clamp. Also recall the 1/2" ply is a few inches shorter than the 1/4"
ply. I glued a small block of ply on each end of the 1/4" ply, no
higher than the 1/2" ply, leaving a gap of about 1". I'm now in the
process of making stop blocks/strips for each side. I take a strip of
1/2" ply, glue a piece of ply about 1"X3" on the end, and another piece
across both pieces, ensuring the 3" piece won't be easily knocked off.
This points down, so it fits in the gap left, and will be set against
the block on the end of the 1/4" ply, then clamped. This will give a
consistent placement each time, allowing consistent cuts to be made.
Now all I need to do is blue up a couple or so more stops, then start
measuring and cutting them to the lengths desired. With the piece glued
on to hold the end piece on, this makes each stop specific to the right
or left side, so no getting them confused. When I get them cut to the
size needed, I'll mark the cut size on each, so won't be any confusion
there either.
I've though about this a lot, no plans, just thought about what I
wanted it to do, then how to do it. Re-thought a lot of it, didn't wan
to have to redo any of it, and it went together just like I'd planned,
and works just as planned - well almost, hadn't figured on the cut
pieces sliding down so well and out on the floor. Now need to figure if
I want to j ust set a cach basket on the floor, or figure something to
hang and catch. I don't recall ever reading, or seeing, anything like
my setup for a miter saw, so it's all out of my mind. Works for me.
In the process of making this, found out one of the router jigs I
had made is the wrong size. Oh it'll work great with the size pieces I
had in mind. Only thing, I was thinking of pieces I'll be cutting for
other projcts. The jig was meant for making chess pieces, with the
leftover to be made into octagon bases. But the pieces that require are
wider than the first jig will accept. Ah well, The second one will be
a bit nicer than the first one, andwith it to monkey make, the second
one won't be hard at all. Popsicle sticks WILL be included - but
probably not yellow paint. Maybe. We'll see..
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.