We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood veneer
finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern formica.
I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very fine 1200
grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use that side for
everyday use.
I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the table
top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those that have not.
Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum paper,
(which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin layer of the wood
pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole of the surface, to bring
it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with lashings of
scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do anything much, as
well as being hard work.
Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen all
over on the formica? I don't want to use any type of rotary power tool,
since the grain in the pattern runs from one end to the other. And any
circular patterns would not look right. I have a rubber rubbing down block,
but what to put on it?
On Aug 9, 5:21=A0pm, "john hamilton" <[email protected]> wrote:
> We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood ven=
eer
> finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern formica.
>
> I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very fine 1=
200
> grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use that side for
> everyday use.
>
> I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the tab=
le
> top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those that have n=
ot.
>
> Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum paper=
,
> (which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin layer of the w=
ood
> pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole of the surface, to bri=
ng
> it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
>
> I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with lashings o=
f
> scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do anything much, as
> well as being hard work.
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen al=
l
> over on the formica? =A0I don't want to use any type of rotary power tool=
,
> since the grain in the pattern runs from one end to the other. And any
> circular patterns would not look right. =A0I have a rubber rubbing down b=
lock,
> but what to put on it?
High pressure laminates, such as Formica, are really just resin
impregnated kraftpaper sandwiches. The top layer is, in fact, just a
printed piece of paper. The 'finish' is a clear resin, which can have
a texture imprinted by an aluminium textured sheet which goes into the
curing oven and is discarded after use. (Melted down and re-used) When
you 'break' that surface, by cutting or scuffing, you have removed it.
Now you're down to paper. You can, with some success, apply a quality
poly after you have scuffed that virtually invisible layer of resin to
give it some tooth.
'Bringing back' or 'restoring' a formica-type finish is nigh
impossible.
john hamilton wrote:
> We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood veneer
> finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern formica.
>
> I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very fine 1200
> grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use that side for
> everyday use.
>
> I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the table
> top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those that have not.
>
> Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum paper,
> (which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin layer of the wood
> pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole of the surface, to bring
> it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
>
> I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with lashings of
> scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do anything much, as
> well as being hard work.
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen all
> over on the formica? I don't want to use any type of rotary power tool,
> since the grain in the pattern runs from one end to the other. And any
> circular patterns would not look right. I have a rubber rubbing down block,
> but what to put on it?
>
>
>
>
Buy a couple of terry cloth table clothes. One to use while the other
is in the washing machine. I love those green scotch bright pads, once
they are broken in properly they are the best thing I've ever found for
washing dishes. When new don't be using them on grandma's fine china.
On 9 Aug, 22:21, "john hamilton" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen al=
l
> over on the formica? =A0
Two approaches, subtractive and additive
A subtractive (i.e. sanding) approach could be to use Micro-mesh
abrasives. These are expensive, about a tenner for a mixed sample pack
from Axminster / Tilgear, but they're the dog's for getting a polish
on plastics (I just did my mobile phone screen with them). I haven't
tried them of Formica, but I'd expect them to work.
Additive approaches would be to shellac or gel poly varnish it, making
the lot equally glossy. "Patina" (from Langlow in Speke) is very good
for this, easy to apply and doesn't look too "plasticky" when finished.
"john hamilton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood
> veneer finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern formica.
>
> I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very fine
> 1200 grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use that side for
> everyday use.
>
> I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the
> table top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those that
> have not.
>
> Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum paper,
> (which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin layer of the
> wood pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole of the surface, to
> bring it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
>
> I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with lashings of
> scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do anything much, as
> well as being hard work.
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen all
> over on the formica? I don't want to use any type of rotary power tool,
> since the grain in the pattern runs from one end to the other. And any
> circular patterns would not look right. I have a rubber rubbing down
> block, but what to put on it?
>
Green scotchbrite pads will put serious scratches in any plastic ....not a
good idea for formica. Softscrub type scouring cream without the green pad
is safer but will degrade the surface as well (if used ....a soft even
pressure only). White scotchbrites are good or safe for plastic or
metals.....If your spots are scratched from the green pad I'd try the 1200
grit sandpaper(wet) and then use a paste wax (will last longer), regular
furniture polish(easiest) or a oil (a stainless steel polish like Sheila
shine) to even out the shine. Rod
On Aug 10, 3:10=A0am, Tabby <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Aug 10, 1:13=A0am, [email protected] (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
>
> > In article <[email protected]>, "john hamilton" <=
[email protected]> wrote:
> > >Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen=
all
> > >over on the formica? =A0
>
> > This is a ton of work and the result will be mediocre at best.
> > Just replace it with new laminate. Depending on the edging,
> > you may be able to install new laminate over the old (after
> > scratching up the old for adhesion).
>
> > Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old formica first.
>
> > Trying to refinish damaged Formica is rather like trying
> > to refinish damaged wallpaper, IMO ;-)
>
> Exactly. And if youre going to replace the formica, replace it with
> something much better quality like wood veneer.
>
> NT
Not to split hairballs, Tabby, but HPlam, like Formica, is
considerably more durable than wood veneer. So quality probably refers
to 'the look' and 'presentation' in which veneers excel.
On Aug 10, 1:13=A0am, [email protected] (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "john hamilton" <bl=
[email protected]> wrote:
> >Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen a=
ll
> >over on the formica? =A0
>
> This is a ton of work and the result will be mediocre at best.
> Just replace it with new laminate. Depending on the edging,
> you may be able to install new laminate over the old (after
> scratching up the old for adhesion).
>
> Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old formica first.
>
> Trying to refinish damaged Formica is rather like trying
> to refinish damaged wallpaper, IMO ;-)
Exactly. And if youre going to replace the formica, replace it with
something much better quality like wood veneer.
NT
On Aug 9, 7:13=A0pm, [email protected] (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "john hamilton" <bl=
[email protected]> wrote:
> >Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen a=
ll
> >over on the formica? =A0
>
> This is a ton of work and the result will be mediocre at best.
> Just replace it with new laminate. Depending on the edging,
> you may be able to install new laminate over the old (after
> scratching up the old for adhesion).
>
> Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old formica first.
>
> Trying to refinish damaged Formica is rather like trying
> to refinish damaged wallpaper, IMO ;-)
>
> --
> |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
> | Malcolm Hoar =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 "The more I practice, the luckier I ge=
t". |
> | [email protected] =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0=
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Gary Player. |
> |http://www.malch.com/=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Shpx gur PQN. =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
a less elegant comment would be "like polishing a turd"
"john hamilton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood veneer
> finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern formica.
>
> I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very fine 1200
> grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use that side for
> everyday use.
>
> I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the table
> top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those that have not.
>
> Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum paper,
> (which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin layer of the wood
> pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole of the surface, to bring
> it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
>
> I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with lashings of
> scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do anything much, as
> well as being hard work.
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen all
> over on the formica? I don't want to use any type of rotary power tool,
> since the grain in the pattern runs from one end to the other. And any
> circular patterns would not look right. I have a rubber rubbing down block,
> but what to put on it?
>
I second what Robatoy said.
You may want to consider replacing the formica. Heating the existing
sheet with a heat gun will soften the adhesive and make removing it much
easier.
Art
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:iy%7o.84204$2%2.78050@hurricane...
> john hamilton wrote:
>> We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood
>> veneer finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern
>> formica.
>> I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very
>> fine 1200 grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use
>> that side for everyday use.
>>
>> I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the
>> table top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those
>> that have not.
>> Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum
>> paper, (which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin
>> layer of the wood pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole
>> of the surface, to bring it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
>>
>> I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with
>> lashings of scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do
>> anything much, as well as being hard work.
>>
>> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of
>> semi-sheen all over on the formica?
>
> If the tp layer still has resin on it, use the micro-abrasives as Messer.
> Dingly suggested. They are just really fine aluminum oxide, come in
> various grits. Look for them a auto paint stores, maybe even in the odd
> ball area of the paint department at Lowes, HD, etc. Pick the grit by the
> type of shine you want.
>
>> I don't want to use any type of
>> rotary power tool, since the grain in the pattern runs from one end
>> to the other. And any circular patterns would not look right. I have
>> a rubber rubbing down block, but what to put on it?
>
> If you d the above, use a rotary tool. One with a foam pad...it will make
> no patterns and the micro-grits are intended to be used with same. If you
> just *gotta* spend all that time rubbing by hand, make a cloth pad, dampen
> with water and charge with the micro-abrasive of your choice.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
***
John,
I would use the suggestion above from dadiOH re the hand rubbing. With
regards to the polishing compound, try contacting a local lapidary club
where you could likely get some polishing material commonly used to polish
gemstones. I have used these to restore scratched sunglasses, glass etc so
it would likely do the job for you. Try googling 'lapidary polishing
compound' . Take a look here under polishing:
http://www.tradeshop.com/gems/howcut.html
Cheers,
Larry
In article <[email protected]>, "john hamilton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of semi-sheen all
>over on the formica?
This is a ton of work and the result will be mediocre at best.
Just replace it with new laminate. Depending on the edging,
you may be able to install new laminate over the old (after
scratching up the old for adhesion).
Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old formica first.
Trying to refinish damaged Formica is rather like trying
to refinish damaged wallpaper, IMO ;-)
--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| [email protected] Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
john hamilton wrote:
> We have a dining table with a two sided top. One has a good real wood
> veneer finish and the other a fairly pleasent woodgrained pattern
> formica.
> I decided to take some scratches out of the formica with some very
> fine 1200 grade wet and dry carborundum paper. Since we often use
> that side for everyday use.
>
> I now have certain patches rubbed down that are very different in the
> table top finish. Mainly those that have been rubbed down and those
> that have not.
> Not desiring to rub down the 'whole' table top with the carborundum
> paper, (which i suspect is not far from totally removing the thin
> layer of the wood pattern) what might I use now to buff up the whole
> of the surface, to bring it to a uniform finish over the whole area?
>
> I've tried using a green scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad with
> lashings of scouring cream on it; but it doesn't really seem to do
> anything much, as well as being hard work.
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might use to work up a kind of
> semi-sheen all over on the formica?
If the tp layer still has resin on it, use the micro-abrasives as Messer.
Dingly suggested. They are just really fine aluminum oxide, come in various
grits. Look for them a auto paint stores, maybe even in the odd ball area
of the paint department at Lowes, HD, etc. Pick the grit by the type of
shine you want.
> I don't want to use any type of
> rotary power tool, since the grain in the pattern runs from one end
> to the other. And any circular patterns would not look right. I have
> a rubber rubbing down block, but what to put on it?
If you d the above, use a rotary tool. One with a foam pad...it will make
no patterns and the micro-grits are intended to be used with same. If you
just *gotta* spend all that time rubbing by hand, make a cloth pad, dampen
with water and charge with the micro-abrasive of your choice.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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