Since you need to sand it anyway, why not just start sanding? Deal with
the color later, IF it changes. Do you really have a choice??
David
Jeff Bennett wrote:
> I finish turned an Oak bowl today and ammonia fumed it. It darkened a
> lot. Now I realize I have not sanded it yet. Will I sand away the
> color or does the fumeing darken it all the way through?
>
> JB
Using strong ammonia fumes to react with acid woods. Ages and colors the
surface. Best known with white oak in A&C and Stickley furniture.
"Keith Young" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For the beginner, What is fumeing
>
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Jeff Bennett) wrote:
> I finish turned an Oak bowl today and ammonia fumed it. It darkened a
> lot. Now I realize I have not sanded it yet. Will I sand away the
> color or does the fumeing darken it all the way through?
>
> JB
Fuming is a suface phenomena. It will sand off. Not a big deal, fume
again, unless you find a particularly satisfying 1/2 way effect and
decide not to. If you want it very dark, it's easy (put it in and forget
it) if you are trying for a lighter color you need more care to yank it
at the right time.
--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by
For the beginner, What is fumeing
Keith
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 11 Oct 2004 13:29:57 -0700, [email protected] (Jeff Bennett)
> wrote:
>
>>Will I sand away the
>>color or does the fumeing darken it all the way through?
>
> It darkens to a varying depth according to grain direction, fuming
> duration, and the general fickleness of timber. If the surface is
> already fairly smooth, then you should be OK. If not, then just give
> it a bit more fuming afterwards.
>
> I've taken nearly 1/4" off end grain and still been in the darkened
> wood. I've also taken one light swipe with a plane over quarter-sawn
> and left dark heartwood and pale rays behind.
>
>
>
> --
> 'Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu Evesham wagn'nagl fhtagn'
You may be OK. I did just fine sanding some floor boards in a staircase
landing. I was just leveling the joints between T&G boards( fumed for 2-3
days). I came up a little short and needed to add a 1/4" filler strip. I
gave the filler strip just a couple of hours in a big with ammonia until
the color looked right. It did not fare as well. I had to build a little
in-place ammonia tent to fix that.
I did see a more scientific test on somebody's website that showed cross
sections of fumed wood. The penetration varied but was as much as 1/4" in
some cross sections.
With a few days of fuming found that the penetration of a solid 1/8". more
on the end-grain.
-Steve
"Jeff Bennett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I finish turned an Oak bowl today and ammonia fumed it. It darkened a
> lot. Now I realize I have not sanded it yet. Will I sand away the
> color or does the fumeing darken it all the way through?
>
> JB
On 11 Oct 2004 13:29:57 -0700, [email protected] (Jeff Bennett)
wrote:
>Will I sand away the
>color or does the fumeing darken it all the way through?
It darkens to a varying depth according to grain direction, fuming
duration, and the general fickleness of timber. If the surface is
already fairly smooth, then you should be OK. If not, then just give
it a bit more fuming afterwards.
I've taken nearly 1/4" off end grain and still been in the darkened
wood. I've also taken one light swipe with a plane over quarter-sawn
and left dark heartwood and pale rays behind.
--
'Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu Evesham wagn'nagl fhtagn'