Hi,
Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms off
several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh a ton
each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged and no
longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand planes, a
hand planer, and a router.
I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
Many thanks,
Gary
On Fri, 08 Aug 2014 20:00:04 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>On 08 Aug 2014 03:38:37 GMT, Puckdropper
><puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>Gary <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms
>>> off several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh
>>> a ton each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged
>>> and no longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand
>>> planes, a hand planer, and a router.
>>> I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
>>>
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Think the screw trick might help? It's where a sagging door is fixed by
>>removing one of the top hinge screws and installing a long screw that
>>goes fully into the jack stud. It works wonderfully on prefab doors,
>>but may not work on a custom door like yours.
>
>...and/or a shim (a few sheets of paper or a piece of cardboard) under
>the lower hinge. But you're right, if it's sagging, it's probably the
>frame bending under the weight.
With the humidity in Costa Rica it could be anything - sagging
frame, warpage, door swelling, - ANYTHING.
Gary <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Hi,
>
> Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms
> off several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh
> a ton each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged
> and no longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand
> planes, a hand planer, and a router.
> I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
>
> Many thanks,
> Gary
>
>
Think the screw trick might help? It's where a sagging door is fixed by
removing one of the top hinge screws and installing a long screw that
goes fully into the jack stud. It works wonderfully on prefab doors,
but may not work on a custom door like yours.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Thursday, August 7, 2014 10:38:37 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrot=
e:
=20
> Think the screw trick might help? It's where a sagging door is fixed by
>=20
> removing one of the top hinge screws and installing a long screw that
>=20
> goes fully into the jack stud. It works wonderfully on prefab doors,
>=20
> but may not work on a custom door like yours.=20
I would certainly try this first. If they worked correctly and had the rig=
ht tolerances and reveals at one time, then they were simply hung wrong. I =
have hung a lot of solid wood doors as well as over sized doors. 4" hinges=
, an extra hinge and plenty of shims and attachments will handle any door.
If you go the screw route, choose a screw that is nearest to the center of =
the jamb to minimize deflection. Find a long screw, with a head large enou=
gh to just sit flush with the hinge. Here's a great trick I use to keep fr=
om splitting the jamb when you tighten down the screw: drill out the screw =
hole in the jamb wide enough to let the screw body slip through without hit=
ting the sides of jamb. When the head makes contact with the hinge, it will=
spread the load across the hinge leaf and prevent splitting of the jamb.
If you have a lot to lift, then do this with a couple of screws on the jamb=
, and take up a little bit at a time with each screw until you get the door=
where you want it. A heavy door might pull out or strip one screw, but no=
t two.
Robert
On 8/7/2014 9:07 PM, Gary wrote:
> The tools I have available are hand planes, a hand planer...
No jig necessary. Scribe a line, roughly corresponding to the floor, and
plane to line.
If the concept of "scribing" to an uneven surface is not familiar, look
here, the concept is the same:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzIqQbsbwN4
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Thu, 07 Aug 2014 22:01:39 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 08/07/2014 9:37 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 8/7/2014 9:07 PM, Gary wrote:
>>
>>> The tools I have available are hand planes, a hand planer...
>>
>> No jig necessary. Scribe a line, roughly corresponding to the floor, and
>> plane to line.
> ...
>
>+1
>
>This is presuming at least a jack plane or longer.
>
>Ensuring the plane is sharp first is key, of course.
Depends how much end grain you are going to need to chop. A big-assed
router with the right cutter, run against a straight edge clamped to
the door would be the fastest if there is much tough end-grain
involved.
On 08 Aug 2014 03:38:37 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Gary <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms
>> off several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh
>> a ton each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged
>> and no longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand
>> planes, a hand planer, and a router.
>> I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Gary
>>
>>
>
>Think the screw trick might help? It's where a sagging door is fixed by
>removing one of the top hinge screws and installing a long screw that
>goes fully into the jack stud. It works wonderfully on prefab doors,
>but may not work on a custom door like yours.
...and/or a shim (a few sheets of paper or a piece of cardboard) under
the lower hinge. But you're right, if it's sagging, it's probably the
frame bending under the weight.
On 8/7/2014 10:07 PM, Gary wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms off
> several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh a ton
> each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged and no
> longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand planes, a
> hand planer, and a router.
> I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
>
> Many thanks,
> Gary
>
A straightedge and a circular saw will do the trick.
On 8/7/2014 10:07 PM, Gary wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms off
> several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh a ton
> each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged and no
> longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand planes, a
> hand planer, and a router.
> I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
>
> Many thanks,
> Gary
>
I didn't comprehend the tools you have available. Instead of a circular
saw, a straightedge and the router will work also.
On 08/07/2014 9:37 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 8/7/2014 9:07 PM, Gary wrote:
>
>> The tools I have available are hand planes, a hand planer...
>
> No jig necessary. Scribe a line, roughly corresponding to the floor, and
> plane to line.
...
+1
This is presuming at least a jack plane or longer.
Ensuring the plane is sharp first is key, of course.
--
On Thu, 07 Aug 2014 22:20:24 -0400, Meanie <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 8/7/2014 10:07 PM, Gary wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms off
>> several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh a ton
>> each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged and no
>> longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand planes, a
>> hand planer, and a router.
>> I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Gary
>>
>
>A straightedge and a circular saw will do the trick.
But he doesn't have a circular saw. A straightedge and a roudter will
do it if he has the right cutters.