Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening, do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do a
great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional sharpening
service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they do
ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
Tina
[email protected]
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 07:38:19 -0500, "Tina" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening, do
>the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
>blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
>myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do a
>great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional sharpening
>service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they do
>ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
>
>Tina
>[email protected]
>
A friend that grew up in a machine shop showed me a neat tr9ick for sharpening
bits... it works for me and I can't sharpen a damned pocket knife.. lol
He took 2 large hex nuts and laid them on the bench next to each other, with the
flat "sides" touching... the angle formed between the nuts (keep your mind out
of the gutter, now) under the mating surfaces is the angle that the drill point
needs to be... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
A friend of mine has a Drill Doctor. I have used it a few times. It is not
too difficult to learn to use it, and it works remarkably well.
Joe in Denver
My Woodworking Website:
www.the-wildings.com/shop/
"Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
> Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
> do
> the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
> blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
> them
> myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do
> a
> great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional
> sharpening
> service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they
> do
> ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
>
> Tina
> [email protected]
>
>
I think being able to sharpen bits by hand with a grinder is a really
useful skill. A drill gage doesn't cost much and makes it much easier
to get the angles equal, practice with one of your larger damaged bits
and compare to a good one till you can get it close. Once you
understand how the drill works and practice it really isn't that hard.
It's not as easy for tiny drill bits so start with a bigger one.
>mac davis wrote:
>... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
> bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..
I've heard that it's bad to use the side of a regular grinding wheel as
they can break and fly apart with a lot of force. That said, I've done
it too, and haven't blown one up. But be careful, and its probably
better to use the face of the wheel.
Hope this helps, Eric
(Newbie apologising in advance for any breach of good manners in this
post)
I find it easier to sharpen brad points than normal twist bits.
If you take a good brad point to your switched OFF grinder and settle
the bit onto the right-hand edge of the wheel, so that the bit points
at your right hip (say, 10 degrees right and 15 degrees down) and
memorise that hand-body-grinder relationship, and then take a blunt
brad point and, with the grinder switched ON, touch the bit gently on
the wheel each side of the point in turn ( no twisting, turning or
rocking: move the bit in line with its long axis) you should find that
you have a good, sharp bit!
And if the bit was blunt, you wont make it any less useful.
I do my regular twist bits by hand on my old grinder. Just takes a
little practice. I can't see well enough to do anything below a 3/16"
properly though. Just try to get the angles even & keep the point
centered.
I use a file on spade bits. I send out Forstner's to a pro, though. I
buy new brad points, but that's rare. - Jim
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
> and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
> out.
> Mike
>
If you use a lot of twist drill I agree. I've not spent $50 on twist drills
in my life so far and probably won't in the rest of it. Now if it did
Forstner bits and brad point, I'd be interested.
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 18:38:25 GMT, patrick conroy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
>>
>>
>> Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
> do
>> the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
>> blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
> them
>
> Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
> Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear by
> their Drill Doctor sharpeners.
I'm pleased with mine. I inherited a large quantity of good but neglected
tools a while back. When bits got dull, he bought a new one. That's
fine, but the good ones don't fill all the holes in the drill index, so...
It's reasonable for touching up anything more than say 1/8", and up to
about 1/2". Beyond that in either direction, no good.
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
> how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
> neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
> stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
> help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
> don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.
"Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:af0_d.30485$Sn6.21258@lakeread03...
> Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on
learning
> how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
> neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
> stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
> help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
> don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
>
Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no need
to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit on
a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Marlow"
> > Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no
> > need
> > to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your
area
> > and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit
> > on
> > a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.
>
> Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander
to
> sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
> wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never
met
> a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.
>
> Dave
I do mine on my grinder but the machinist that showed me how, showed me on
his belt. Worked just fine.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Some can do it well, and they may also sharpen chisels without a guide.
IMO,
> "learning" how to do it is only half the issue. For bits smaller than 1/4,
it
> gets more difficult, and there the Drill Doctor does a nice job. It's also
> much faster (at least for me) when you have many to sharpen.
I can get smaller than 1/4 but not an awful lot smaller. Nothing below an
1/8th, for sure. But - those bits are so cheap, you just buy new ones.
They aren't even worth the time on a Drill DR, let alone the cost of a Drill
DR.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 07:52:47 -0800, the inscrutable "Teamcasa"
> <[email protected]> spake:
>
>
> >
> >Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander
to
> >sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
> >wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never
met
> >a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.
>
> I haven't been in a machine shop for some time now, but when I visited
> them weekly (in a past life as a wrench), none had belt sanders, at
> least not that I can remember. Maybe that's why you never met one,
> either.
>
It'd be my bad guys. Should not have said belt sander. Should have said
Stationary Belt Sander. Don't know about the machine shops you've been in
but like I said the guy who showed me how to sharpen drill bits showed me on
a Stationary Belt Sander. Come to think of it, I've seen them in other
machine shops as well. Maybe Larry just never noticed them in the shops he
was in.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9yr_d.60$%d7.16@lakeread03...
>
> > Bingo...you found what I was looking for...thanks...I tried doing some
> bits but got it all wrong...I think the holder will help me out a
> bunch...thanks! Next in line will be a lighted magnifiyer that I can put
> anywhere...my eyes are as sharp as they use to be when I was
> younger....thanks for all the help!
> Tina
>
>
Tina - most likely you can master the simple technique of sharpening a bit
with a little instruction and save yourself the cash for stuff like jigs,
etc. that you really don't need.
Try this... Take a nice new bit - maybe a 1/4 or somewhat larger.
Something that is big enough to see well but it need not be a monster bit.
Hold it in front of your grinding wheel - with the grinder shut off. Hold
it so that the drill bit is in this sort of orientation... / In other
words, it will point right and the back side should be lower than the point.
Lay the point of the bit onto the grinder wheel and look at the contact
point. You'll see that there is a definite contact surface that starts at
the land of the bit. Make the bit lay flat on that contact area. Now, by
simply raising your rear hand, observe how the bit remains in full contact
with the grinder, but you are moving the contact surface toward the very
point of the drill. Do this a few times, and observe that all you are doing
is raising the rear of the bit. Develop a little muscle memory in this
process. That action will sharpen one side of the bit. To sharpen the
other side, reverse and repeat. Most people try to emulate a pencil
sharpener, and that simply will not work. You are not trying to make a
pencil point, you are sharpening two cutting edges on the end of the bit.
It's a lot easier to do than it is to explain. Again - before you buy
anything, do yourself the favor of going to a machine shop and ask the
machinist to show you how to do it. You'll be surprised at how easy it is
to do.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Tina"
> I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening
> I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
> myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine.
Sniped
First, if they are brad-point, the Drill Doctor won't work.
Second, given your statements, the only other options are to
pay someone or buy new ones. (You can send your old ones to me)
Really, sharpening a standard drill bit only takes a few minutes and a
little practice.
Now that your are going to buy new ones anyway, practice with your old ones.
I'm sure that if you take a few old ones down to the local machine shop, an
old fart will
show you how to sharpen them up and get you started.
Dave
BTW - The Drill Doctor does work fine. I gave one to my dad and he likes
it. I however, still prefer the old (faster) way myself.
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"Mike Marlow"
> Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no
> need
> to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
> and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit
> on
> a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.
Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander to
sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never met
a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.
Dave
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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Tina,
Drill bit sharpening is a skill that is easily learned.
At the grinder begin at the trailing edge of the bevel cut holding the bit
at the same angle to the grinding wheel as the bit was original ground at.
Rotate the bit gently and drop the non sharpened end of the bit gently as
you rotate the bit. When you see sparks just beginning to appear at the
cutting edge, stop grinding.
Examine the cutting edge for a uniform sharpness. Repeat the above steps if
necessary to get a clean cutting edge. At the trailing edge you must be
certain that this area is lower that the leading or cutting edge. It is
higher than the cutting edge it will hold the bit up and off of the material
to be drilled and not allow the cutting edge to do it's work.. If this is
the case, gently grind it again but drop the tail of the bit more than you
did the first time. When you are satisfied, then do these steps to the
other flute of the bit (other cutting edge). If it looks like a mess, not
to worry, just hold the bit 90 degrees to the wheel, grind off thee mess and
start over.
Grind gently and keep water handy to immerse the bit in. Do not grind the
but to aggressively, you might take the temper from the bit, if you do, then
it will not hold an edge.
It is a bit difficult to describe something I have been doing for 60 years
and is second nature to me , but I did the best I can. If you have any
questions feel free to email me directly.
It is really just a matter of practice. I'd practice with a 1/4" bit
initially, they are small enough to give you the idea and large enough that
you can see what your are doing, and everyone has a dozen 1/4" bits!
Don Dando
"Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
> Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
do
> the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
> blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them
> myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do
a
> great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional
sharpening
> service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they
do
> ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
>
> Tina
> [email protected]
>
>
>
Some can do it well, and they may also sharpen chisels without a guide. IMO,
"learning" how to do it is only half the issue. For bits smaller than 1/4, it
gets more difficult, and there the Drill Doctor does a nice job. It's also
much faster (at least for me) when you have many to sharpen.
I've never been able to sharpen a chisel well without some kind of guide,
although I can cut dovetails with a saw pretty much by eye. I still remember
one machine shop where one old guy did all the sharpening, by eye and faster
and better than anybody else. He tried teaching me, but I never made it.
GerryG
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 22:11:23 -0500, Dan Valleskey <valleskey at comcast dot
net> wrote:
>First time in a long time I've disagreed with Mike-
>
>skip the drill doc. Learn to do it free hand. Start with a bigger
>bit, get a gage, play with it some. It is not hard to learn. the
>real little bits, I just toss those (or they break).
>
>(Hey Mike, want me to show you how to sharpen them? Hahaha....)
>
>
>-Dan V.
>
>
>On 16 Mar 2005 07:04:06 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
>>and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
>>out.
>>Mike
Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
borrow her grinder ;-)
Tina
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Geb_d.12845$ZE5.8857@fed1read03...
>
> Tina you might want to check your local Sears, mine was
> carrying the cheapest drill doctor for $30, takes bits up to
> 1/2", or call 1st.
>
> --
> Alex
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
>
>
Tina:
Larry is right - and a belt grinder/sander is great for honing blades,
carving tools etc...
See below:
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
> <[email protected]> spake:
>
>
>>Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
>>to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
>>ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
>>stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
>>dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
>>borrow her grinder ;-)
>
>
> Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
> once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
> on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
> generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
> pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
> sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
> one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
> disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.
>
> Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
> http://www.google.com/search?q=build+belt+sander
Never contemplated of doing drill bits on mine. I'll try it.
You can see mine set up below...
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/infobusiness/shop/shop.html
Here is the specific Lee Valley Link.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44884&cat=1,43072
The motor is a 1/3 HP 1760 RPM (single speed) furnace blower motor. $75
- $120 new depending on source. A few $$ at a flea market if you have
the time -- I usually don't. Bought mine at the local Home Hardware, and
one at Princess Auto.
>
>
> -
> Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
> http://diversify.com
good luck
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Gcq_d.18615$ZE5.4558@fed1read03...
>
> >I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
> > want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a
combo
> > unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and
pluged it
> > in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15
months
> > for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
> > stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
> > files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use
to
> > work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it
worked
> > nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
> > angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
> > Tina
>
>
> I suppose you bought this yellow one?
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35098
> I think that should be a good economical purchase, everything else with
> a major name brand is made in China anyway. Good going.
>
> But now, in order to sharpen bits easily you need a drill bit sharpening
jig
> that will work with the smaller faster wheel. It is like this one in the
link
> though I don't think I would get the Sears one,
>
> http://www.sears.com/ / tools / search: 00925292000
> (for the idea of what they look like)
>
> General makes one that might be better and you could search:
>
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/browse/-/228013/ref=pd_ir_hi_nav/103-5973910-5972627
>
> Jig mounted, it holds the bit tip against the flat side of the wheel while
> you turn it manualy, though you might need a finer grit wheel.
>
> It's good to WOMEN into mechanics and woodworking, I always appreciate
> that... hope you keep to it!
>
> --
> Alex
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
> Bingo...you found what I was looking for...thanks...I tried doing some
bits but got it all wrong...I think the holder will help me out a
bunch...thanks! Next in line will be a lighted magnifiyer that I can put
anywhere...my eyes are as sharp as they use to be when I was
younger....thanks for all the help!
Tina
I have one and wouldn't do without it. It's so easy even a 4 year old can
sharpen bits. And the bits come out as good as new. A little shorter though.
"Joe Wilding" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1110981749.1289321478136eef61fe0f22efaf3e2f@teranews...
>A friend of mine has a Drill Doctor. I have used it a few times. It is not
>too difficult to learn to use it, and it works remarkably well.
>
> Joe in Denver
> My Woodworking Website:
> www.the-wildings.com/shop/
>
>
>
>
> "Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
>> Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
>> do
>> the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
>> blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
>> them
>> myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do
>> a
>> great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional
>> sharpening
>> service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they
>> do
>> ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
>>
>> Tina
>> [email protected]
>>
>>
>
>
I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a combo
unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and pluged it
in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15 months
for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use to
work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it worked
nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
Tina
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll second (or 8th?) that. You can get a full twist drill set for 40-55.
The
> titanium looks nice, but doesn't really do anything for you. The reason is
> that they don't come really sharp. Yes, they will drill holes, but so much
> better after using the Drill Doctor. Once they are sharpened, the thin
coating
> is gone from the tip. Now, if you spent $220 for a full set, they'd not
only
> be tougher metal but would come sharp. For wood, however, the cheaper set
has
> lasted for years.
> GerryG
>
> On 16 Mar 2005 20:09:27 GMT, Dave Hinz <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on
learning
> >> how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but
my
> >> neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what
happens...I
> >> stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
> >> help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need
sharpening...I
> >> don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
> >
> >It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
> >the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
> >with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
> >I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.
>I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
> want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a combo
> unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and pluged it
> in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15 months
> for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
> stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
> files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use to
> work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it worked
> nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
> angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
> Tina
I suppose you bought this yellow one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35098
I think that should be a good economical purchase, everything else with
a major name brand is made in China anyway. Good going.
But now, in order to sharpen bits easily you need a drill bit sharpening jig
that will work with the smaller faster wheel. It is like this one in the link
though I don't think I would get the Sears one,
http://www.sears.com/ / tools / search: 00925292000
(for the idea of what they look like)
General makes one that might be better and you could search:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/browse/-/228013/ref=pd_ir_hi_nav/103-5973910-5972627
Jig mounted, it holds the bit tip against the flat side of the wheel while
you turn it manualy, though you might need a finer grit wheel.
It's good to WOMEN into mechanics and woodworking, I always appreciate
that... hope you keep to it!
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Where are you buying twist bits that you need to worry about heat? I haven't
seen carbon steel bits in a long time.
"Don Dando" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:480%[email protected]...
>
> Grind gently and keep water handy to immerse the bit in. Do not grind
the
> but to aggressively, you might take the temper from the bit, if you do,
then
> it will not hold an edge.
Thanks dave....majority has spoken......now to get my garage (20x20) to look
more like a woodshop....(a work in progress)..it's getting there
slowly...next big purchase will be a dust collector....will need some advice
there also next month...stayed tuned in! Thanks gang!
Tina
"Dave Hinz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on
learning
> > how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
> > neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
> > stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
> > help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need
sharpening...I
> > don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
>
> It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
> the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
> with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
> I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.
>
Will do curly....................thanks!
Tina
"curly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I think being able to sharpen bits by hand with a grinder is a really
> useful skill. A drill gage doesn't cost much and makes it much easier
> to get the angles equal, practice with one of your larger damaged bits
> and compare to a good one till you can get it close. Once you
> understand how the drill works and practice it really isn't that hard.
> It's not as easy for tiny drill bits so start with a bigger one.
>
>
> >mac davis wrote:
> >... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
> > bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..
>
>
> I've heard that it's bad to use the side of a regular grinding wheel as
> they can break and fly apart with a lot of force. That said, I've done
> it too, and haven't blown one up. But be careful, and its probably
> better to use the face of the wheel.
>
> Hope this helps, Eric
>
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
Tina
"Dave Hinz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 18:38:25 GMT, patrick conroy
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > "Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
> >>
> >>
> >> Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of
sharpening,
> > do
> >> the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the
TS
> >> blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
> > them
> >
> > Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
> > Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear
by
> > their Drill Doctor sharpeners.
>
> I'm pleased with mine. I inherited a large quantity of good but neglected
> tools a while back. When bits got dull, he bought a new one. That's
> fine, but the good ones don't fill all the holes in the drill index, so...
> It's reasonable for touching up anything more than say 1/8", and up to
> about 1/2". Beyond that in either direction, no good.
>
>
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 07:52:47 -0800, the inscrutable "Teamcasa"
<[email protected]> spake:
>"Mike Marlow"
>> Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no
>> need
>> to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
>> and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit
>> on
>> a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.
>
>Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander to
>sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
>wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never met
>a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.
I haven't been in a machine shop for some time now, but when I visited
them weekly (in a past life as a wrench), none had belt sanders, at
least not that I can remember. Maybe that's why you never met one,
either.
----------------------------------------------------------
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
--------------------------------------
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On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 10:09:53 -0500, the inscrutable WillR
<[email protected]> spake:
>Tina:
>
>Larry is right - and a belt grinder/sander is great for honing blades,
>carving tools etc...
No, no, no! GRINDING, not honing. And if you don't yet know the
difference, get Leonard Lee's book "The Complete Guide To Sharpening"
I suppose you could use a leather belt on one and actually hone
something, but that's purely overkill.
>Never contemplated of doing drill bits on mine. I'll try it.
>You can see mine set up below...
>http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/infobusiness/shop/shop.html
It's easier on the 5" disc than the belt due to belt layering,
but it can be done if you hold it against the belt where it's
not backed up by a guide. I use 120 grit belts most often.
----------------------------------------------------------
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
--------------------------------------
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"Limey Lurker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> (Newbie apologising in advance for any breach of good manners in this
> post)
> I find it easier to sharpen brad points than normal twist bits.
> If you take a good brad point to your switched OFF grinder and settle
> the bit onto the right-hand edge of the wheel, so that the bit points
> at your right hip (say, 10 degrees right and 15 degrees down) and
> memorise that hand-body-grinder relationship, and then take a blunt
> brad point and, with the grinder switched ON, touch the bit gently on
> the wheel each side of the point in turn ( no twisting, turning or
> rocking: move the bit in line with its long axis) you should find that
> you have a good, sharp bit!
> And if the bit was blunt, you wont make it any less useful.
Thanks Limey...I"ll give it a try.........
Tina
>
Highly recommended
The Complete Guide to Sharpening, Leonard Lee.
Sharpening skills and woodworking skills go together. It may be
better to replace the worn bits than have them professionally
sharpened, certainly cheaper to do them yourself.
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 07:38:19 -0500, "Tina" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening, do
>the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
>blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
>myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do a
>great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional sharpening
>service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they do
>ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
>
>Tina
>[email protected]
>
"Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
>
>
> Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
do
> the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
> blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them
Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear by
their Drill Doctor sharpeners.
Brad Points and Forstners?
I do not consider to be disposable -- yet.
But the Drill Doctor's won't sharpen those anyway yet.
So far mine are still sharp enough that I haven't had to make a decision.
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 14:20:04 GMT, the inscrutable "Mortimer Schnerd,
RN" <[email protected]> spake:
>Maverick wrote:
>> I have one and wouldn't do without it. It's so easy even a 4 year old can
>> sharpen bits. And the bits come out as good as new. A little shorter though.
>
>
>Ditto. I farm out my saw blades to a local sharpening service. My drill bits
>go through a Drill Doctor 300, for which I only paid $49.95 at Lowes about a
>year ago. It does a fine job and is easy to learn.
Does the DD do auger, forstner, or brad point bits yet?
-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
<[email protected]> spake:
>Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
>to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
>ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
>stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
>dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
>borrow her grinder ;-)
Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.
Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
http://www.google.com/search?q=build+belt+sander
-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com
Maverick wrote:
> I have one and wouldn't do without it. It's so easy even a 4 year old can
> sharpen bits. And the bits come out as good as new. A little shorter though.
Ditto. I farm out my saw blades to a local sharpening service. My drill bits
go through a Drill Doctor 300, for which I only paid $49.95 at Lowes about a
year ago. It does a fine job and is easy to learn.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 08:31:58 -0800, mac davis wrote:
> He took 2 large hex nuts and laid them on the bench next to each other, with the
> flat "sides" touching... the angle formed between the nuts (keep your mind out
> of the gutter, now) under the mating surfaces is the angle that the drill point
> needs to be... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
The angle formed by two osculating hexagons is 120 degrees, whereas the
usual angle of twist bits is 118 degrees. Geometry aside, thanks
for sharing that cool tip. Certainly close enough for hand grinding.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 16:40:44 -0800, CW wrote:
> Where are you buying twist bits that you need to worry about heat? I haven't
> seen carbon steel bits in a long time.
At the BORG, for a coupla bucks. Useless for drilling holes, but fabulous
for learning to sharpen. No sweat if one ruins the bit. Same for Forstners.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
First time in a long time I've disagreed with Mike-
skip the drill doc. Learn to do it free hand. Start with a bigger
bit, get a gage, play with it some. It is not hard to learn. the
real little bits, I just toss those (or they break).
(Hey Mike, want me to show you how to sharpen them? Hahaha....)
-Dan V.
On 16 Mar 2005 07:04:06 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
>and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
>out.
>Mike
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:59:28 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
><[email protected]> spake:
>
>>Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
>>to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
>>ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
>>stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
>>dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
>>borrow her grinder ;-)
>
>Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
>once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
>on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
>generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
>pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
>sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
>one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
>disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.
>
>Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
>http://www.google.com/search?q=build+belt+sander
>
>
>-
>Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
> http://diversify.com
I moved to the 1-inch belt sander awhile ago. Don't use it for drill bits, but
I built a sliding guide with different angles and it's the fastest way I've
found for chisels and planes. I take nicks out on the ginder, then use the
belt to restore the bevel and sharpen. Then just final honing on high grit
flat paper.
And by setting the angle ala Leonard Lee's book, it's the absolute best and
fastest way to sharpen kitchen knives, leaving a nice tooth. That's the one
tool I've bought that SWMBO really appreciates.
GerryG
Thanks Don, I"ll give it a shot.................I have the wet grinder to
try it on.........
Tina
"Don Dando" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:480%[email protected]...
> Tina,
>
> Drill bit sharpening is a skill that is easily learned.
>
> At the grinder begin at the trailing edge of the bevel cut holding the bit
> at the same angle to the grinding wheel as the bit was original ground at.
>
> Rotate the bit gently and drop the non sharpened end of the bit gently as
> you rotate the bit. When you see sparks just beginning to appear at the
> cutting edge, stop grinding.
>
> Examine the cutting edge for a uniform sharpness. Repeat the above steps
if
> necessary to get a clean cutting edge. At the trailing edge you must be
> certain that this area is lower that the leading or cutting edge. It is
> higher than the cutting edge it will hold the bit up and off of the
material
> to be drilled and not allow the cutting edge to do it's work.. If this is
> the case, gently grind it again but drop the tail of the bit more than you
> did the first time. When you are satisfied, then do these steps to the
> other flute of the bit (other cutting edge). If it looks like a mess, not
> to worry, just hold the bit 90 degrees to the wheel, grind off thee mess
and
> start over.
>
> Grind gently and keep water handy to immerse the bit in. Do not grind
the
> but to aggressively, you might take the temper from the bit, if you do,
then
> it will not hold an edge.
>
> It is a bit difficult to describe something I have been doing for 60 years
> and is second nature to me , but I did the best I can. If you have any
> questions feel free to email me directly.
>
> It is really just a matter of practice. I'd practice with a 1/4" bit
> initially, they are small enough to give you the idea and large enough
that
> you can see what your are doing, and everyone has a dozen 1/4" bits!
>
> Don Dando
>
>
>
> "Tina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
> > Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of
sharpening,
> do
> > the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
> > blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
> them
> > myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't
do
> a
> > great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional
> sharpening
> > service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not,
they
> do
> > ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input
> >
> > Tina
> > [email protected]
> >
> >
> >
>
>
I'll second (or 8th?) that. You can get a full twist drill set for 40-55. The
titanium looks nice, but doesn't really do anything for you. The reason is
that they don't come really sharp. Yes, they will drill holes, but so much
better after using the Drill Doctor. Once they are sharpened, the thin coating
is gone from the tip. Now, if you spent $220 for a full set, they'd not only
be tougher metal but would come sharp. For wood, however, the cheaper set has
lasted for years.
GerryG
On 16 Mar 2005 20:09:27 GMT, Dave Hinz <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
>> how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
>> neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
>> stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
>> help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
>> don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
>
>It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
>the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
>with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
>I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.